Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Dodge Intrepid



  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    "but should replace the steering gear box."

    Why are you going to replace the steering gear box? Just wondering as I approach 130K miles. :shades:
  • bobe4bobe4 Posts: 12
    There is a few inches play in the steering and I've been told by my mechanic that there is no adjustment and to fix it the steering gear box should be replaced. At this age, 8 years and 152k miles, it is always a question of when to give up and buy another car. But, I really like this one.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,578
    Has your mechanic given you an estimate on the cost to replace the steering box? Last time I had one of those done, it was on a 1968 Dodge Dart. Got a steering box and a power steering pump from the junkyard for $150, and my mechanic charged another $150 to put them both on. That was 11 years ago. Somehow, I have a feeling an Intrepid will be a few bucks more. ;)

    I'm around 139,400 with my 2000 2.7. And I'm in sort of the same predicament...a bit weary of throwing any more money into it, but at the same time, I do still like the car.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    "There is a few inches play in the steering and I've been told by my mechanic that there is no adjustment and to fix it the steering gear box should be replaced. At this age, 8 years and 152k miles, it is always a question of when to give up and buy another car. But, I really like this one."

    Are you sure it's the steering box? The play in my steering was fixed by replacing the inner tie rod bushings and then aligning the front end.
  • bobe4bobe4 Posts: 12
    Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Any update? The original tie rod bushings were rubber inside steel, but the new ones were a harder plastic in the steel casing. They looked a lot more durable. The guy who did it (Treadquarters) was patient but had to lie atop the engine to do it, the inner tie rod ends are between the engine and firewall. Luckily he was wiry sort. ;) . It made a big difference. The steering was very loose and the front tires were being eaten up in less tha 10,000 miles.
  • lorib43lorib43 Posts: 2
    We have our vehicle for at least about two to three months. I know it is a used vehicle but we are having problems with it starting up. The Rack and Pinion went out last month and at least about three weeks later the car is not starting up. Is there a recall on the vehicle in the past that we don't know about? :mad: :sick:
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Recall about what? Yours is a 12 year old car that needs some repair. Good luck, but you need a mechanic. There is no relationship between the rack and pinion steering and the engine not starting. Best wishes. :shades:
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Chech camshaft and crankshaft sensors they tell the computer when to fire plugs. When either of them is faulty the car will not start.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,578
    My Trep is at the mechanic right now, because its intermittent stalling problem got worse. A couple Fridays ago, I was going to use it to drive up to Carlisle, PA, and it died on me about 2 miles from home. And this time, it DIDN'T start right back up...which someone on this thread predicted it would eventually do. :cry: Finally got it started, came back home, and got another car.

    Well, all last week, I drove it to work and back, and it was fine. Then on Monday, I was ready to leave work, and it refused to start. It would crank and crank and crank, but wouldn't fire up. So I left it and got a ride home.

    Yesterday I tried it again after work, and at first it wouldn't start. Then, the weirdest thing happened. The trip odometer went totally blank, just all dashes. Then a "P" came up. Then it showed "DONE". I guess that's a sign from above, that the car is done for! :P

    Oddly though, right after that it started back up, and behaved perfectly on the 6 mile trip to the mechanic. So does this sound like it could be one of those sensors, like the camshaft or crankshaft position? I mentioned both of those to the mechanic, and someone else told me to mention a MAF sensor, or something like that? And something else, like a "Cold position start" sensor?

    Anyway, I hope it doesn't end up being too cost-prohibitive to fix. I know it sounds weird, but I'd almost feel better if the car died from something a bit more heroic, like an accident, tranny failure, engine blowout, or whatever. In contrast, a several thousand $ electrical repair just sounds kinda wussy. :blush:

    But, the car does have about 140,000 miles on it, so I shouldn't complain. I shouldn't, but I will. ;) Seriously though, I hope it lasts awhile longer. There's still really nothing out there on the new car front that excites me enough to get back into monthly payments.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Andre, I bet they can get that fixed for you.

    Keep us posted. ;)

    I believe that is a MAP sensor (but MAF sensor may be right). :shades:

  • cbusacbusa Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 1998 Dodge Intrepid. cannot figure out what the problem is . Not only is it dangerous driving and stalling out at 45mph. It is frustrating spending money when all you can do is eliminate what everyone says is wrong .
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,578
    Well it's been two weeks now, and my Trep is still at the mechanic. Haven't heard any progress reports, but I'm not that pressed because I figure the longer he keeps it, the longer it is before I have to pay for it. :shades:

    I have a feeling that what's happening is that he's driving it around, trying to get it to act up, but it's playing the perfect little angel routine for him. Naturally, I'm sure that if I got it back from him, it would leave me stranded within a day. :surprise:
  • herky011herky011 Posts: 7
    I have a '99 Intrepid that I bought with a locked 2.7 eng.(no giggles please). I replaced the engine with a 2.7 from an '04 Concorde. It was a nightmare until I finally ran across some one who would part with the information to make the engine run. Everything was fine untill three days ago. Climate control head stopped working followed by the emergency flashers and bak-up lites. Drove the car to the dealer, was told the Bcm was bad(758) for a new one, elected to go with one from A salvage yard. The car ran fine everything worked for about five stops. A total of about 25 miles, shut the car off went into the grocery, when I came out and started the car it went into Theft mode. Lights flashing horn honking and eng. shut down in @ 10 seconds. It did this four times then would not start at all.Cannot get the car out of theft mode. Eng will not start/turn. Inst. lights are dead ReInstalled old BCM, everythinhg works inside, but starter will not engage. Does the replacement BCM have to be programmed for the new Vin? It will obviously have to have the mileage changed to match the original BCM. Original BCM did not have RKE. Replacement BCM did. Removing the RKE modual does not change the situation. HELP!!
  • herky011herky011 Posts: 7
    It seemes that ever service manager has a different reason for the failure of the 2.7 engines. It should be obvious to even the most mechanically challenged person that building an engine with the waterpump in the crankcase is the very definition of insanity. When the waterpump fails so does the engine.
  • herky011herky011 Posts: 7
    I bought an '04 engine and transmission in '05 for $2800. Still have the transmission. The CARFAX on the car the engine and tranny came out indicated that it had 1(one) mile,but the invoice said that it had nine(9) miles.
    I don't like the idea of having the waterpump in the crankcase, but it is a strong nice running engine. I have mostly Northstar Cadillacs and they get a bad rap too, But I think that they are one of the best engines around, given the number that are on the road. :)
  • roger924roger924 Posts: 40
    If you have an alarm disconnect it, The BCM has a core if I remember correctly you should get $150 back if you buy the new one.
  • roger924roger924 Posts: 40
    When my water pump went bad the car went into a saftey mode. It would not go past 2nd gear. I limped it to my Dads and called for a tow.
  • herky011herky011 Posts: 7
    Apparently the BCM is not re-programmable. Once it is programmed with the vehicle Vin# it cannot be re-programmed to another Vin#. I guess thats why there were 63 pages listed at Looks like $580 pluse labor for a new or remaned one. With a $120.00 core it must be repairable or re-programmable at the factory. :(
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,578
    on Friday afternoon, I talked to the mechanic who has my Intrepid. He never could get the car to act up for him, but he tried replacing a few things just based on the problems I described...random stalling out and an occasional refusal to start.

    He told me to come pick it up for the weekend, drive it around, and then call him in a few days to let him know how it was acting. Well, I'll give the car this made the 9 mile trip home just fine. And then got me out to the liquor store okay. So I thought maybe it was fixed. Until I was stopped, waiting for a red light on the way home, and it cut out on me. So, back to the shop it went. :sick:
Sign In or Register to comment.