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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    I think it is a strong product that takes what Honda is well known for, and adds some power. 240 hp and 31 mpg highway rating is pretty impressive, though handling and price are nothing to write home about. Compared to the horsepower and EPA ratings for the Stratus, it seems a step up.

    That being said, the often delayed new Intrepid will probably not have very impressive EPA figures if it is RWD and packing a v-8 under the hood. Of course, I don't consider them direct competitors.
  • djg1118djg1118 Posts: 1
    I got my 2000 Intrepid in September, 2000 from Spitzer in Parma, OH. While driving home from work Monday, I lost all power in my car. Since I had an appointment for Tuesday (fix broke CD player, tires rotated, oil change) I had the car towed to the dealer. To make a long story short, they are saying that the engine is burned out and they will not cover it with the warranty. The reason they are telling me is that there was no oil in the car. I have had all oil changes as scheduled - though not at the dealer because I could not leave my car for the day to have it done. I had no warning that anything was wrong with the car. It was not running sluggish, nor was there smoke or anything from the engine indicating that no oil was getting to it. No warning lights came on in the car. My car was not leaking oil either. The last oil change was about 6/7 months ago. The cost for an engine from a crashed Intrepid will be $ 5,000!
    Has this problem happed to anybody else? What can I do to make sure this is covered with the warranty? Thank You!
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    let's see, no leaks...no blue smoke from the exhaust...it appears either alien's stole your oil or the last place you had it changed didn't put enough in. or, you never check your oil and expect the car to run forever without it...

    btw, you could prolly buy a new engine for much less than 5k...
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,902
    Before I bought my Intrepid, I drove a succession of beaters, some of them older than me, and some of them with mileage equalling roughly the distance between here and the moon. Naturally, some of those cars had a tendency to leak oil. It's been my experience that usualy, an oil warning light will come on once the level drops down to around 2-3 quarts. At that point, it would start to come on under hard acceleration, hard braking, or quick cornering...basically anything that could cause the oil to slosh around and drop too low to get sucked up by the pump.

    I would think you'd start seeing the warning light for the oil long before it actually ran dry. And then, it would start to make all sorts off hideous noises, giving you ample warning as it burned itself up.

    As for the price of a used engine, well hell, the dealer only offered me $6500 trade in on my '00 Trep back in February, when I was briefly considering a new Altima! If they want $5000 for a used engine, then I think I'm going to go ahead and start parting my car out! If anybody needs any parts, just email me with your requests! :-P

    Seriously, I'd think you could get a good used engine put in for around $2500-3000. Just a wild guess, though. There's a junkyard local to me that specializes in Mopars, and the last time I was in there, they had a few of the curent-generation LH cars, and about 15-20 of the first-gen. Every single one was in there because of an accident. Which means, every single one most likely still had a good engine and tranny. Even the supposedly-awful '93-95 models. Not a one was in the junkyard due to a bum tranny or engine. So there should be a pretty good supply of wrecked ones around.

    Call around to a few local wreckers and see if you can find an engine at a reasonable price...it'll be a lot less than the dealer. For instance, I have a friend who has a '98 Tracker, with a tranny that was about to die. Dealer estimated between $1000-3000 for it, which means, probably, closer to $3000. Well, I found him a used one and found a place to put it in, all for just under $1100. An Intrepid engine will be much more than a simple 3-speed RWD automatic, but that's just an example to show how expensive the dealer can be.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    Do you have all the bills from your oil changes at the other shop? Then call DC ,your car is still under warranty. Do not take no for an answer. Call ,call and keep calling.
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    ottowkr,

    i doubt dc would pay for personal negligence...which is what i suspect this is...or it's just a troll post!
  • costenjcostenj Posts: 14
    Hey guys,

    Has anyone encountered or heard any engine knocking sounds from under the hood? I've got the '99 2.7L and notice it knocking or pinging after I shut it off. I have the K&N air filter installed also. I've tried higher octane gas to no avail. Should it be tuned up? It still has another year on the extended warranty. Should I be worried?

    I've read that excessive engine knock can hurt the engine over the long-term. Any advice? Thanks. :)
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    The noise you are hearing after you shut down the engine is called run on. It is caused by carbon deposits in the combustion chamber which are still red hot and can cause the remaing gasoline in the intake manifold to ignite. Sounds like you do a lot of short trip or stop and go low speed driving.Any good Dealer or mechanic can fix this easily.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Close friend of mine had 99 Avanger. He had the exact same thing you had but his was out of warranty. No warning no leak, according to him the car just stopped, I don't know all the details.
    And I agree with others, you can do better than $5K for the engine. Good luck.
  • djg1118: The response you got from your dealer is typical Chrysler. Call the district manager and if your lucky the person in that position might have the Daimler attitude rather than Chrysler.
    5000.00 for a used engine is a rip off, perhaps you could get the address of the salvage dealer that has all of the perfectly mechanically sound Intrepids in his inventory (post 1293) and he might be interested in buying yours if the body is good. After you do get the auto repaired the best move is to dispose of the lemon, trade it for a foreign model even if finances dictate that you have to buy one a few years older. An older Toyota or Honda will give you many more trouble free miles then a newer Chrysler product. On a recent trip I got stuck with a Stratus as a rental vehicle ( nothing else available ) what a disappointment! I hope the new Intrepid will be better, if not Daimler will have their hands full keeping the Chrysler ship afloat.
  • costenjcostenj Posts: 14
    Hey Tom, (hayneldan)

    You're right. Lately I've been doing a lot of short trips as it's summer and I'm not teaching. But by next month I'll be hitting the highway again every day. Should I still call my dealer and salesperson to have it brought in and get the timing checked? or tuned up? What do u think? I notice your info says u also have a '99 Intrepid. Have u noticed anything worth mentioning? I'm thinking of getting a performance exhaust installed like maybe Flowmaster etc.....!
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Stick to the lowest grade gas. Tune up is not necessary because everything is controlled by computer. If something is wrong "check engine" light should come on from the computer sensors. Your nearby auto parts store may have an additive to "decarbonize" the engine. Be sure it is OK for Emission systems including the oxygen sensor. How many miles on your car? My mods on my Candy apple red ES with camel leather include: Exotic wood dash (rosewood) K&N stock filter replacement, Spoiler depot spoiler, and the rear resonator painted flat black with high temp paint. I'm still considering the Dual conversion but might wait till the muffler needs replacement. Bosch platinum plus 4 plugs will be next.
  • costenjcostenj Posts: 14
    Tom and all,

    One of my pals also recommended staying with regular or low octane gas as that is what it was designed for originally. Over the past few weeks I was adding premium and some mid-grade AND that was when I began to notice the engine run-on sounds. SO, I'm switching back to regular ASAP.

    I also have the K&N air filter. It makes a far better sound now and feels a bit more spirited. Has anyone used the K&N gold oil filter? I hadn't thought of the Bosch plugs - have they made a noticeable difference?

    I was wondering about the exhaust and mufflers on the Intrepids. Is it stainless steel? I don't even know. I'm thinking of getting the dual exhaust installed. My question is: when the dual conversion is made, does this make for more power, torque, and throatier sound etc? Or is just for looks? :)
  • costenjcostenj Posts: 14
    And Tom my mileage right now is 53000 miles.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    I constantly check the 300M board and the opinion there is that the dual exhaust ala Hugo gives the best improvement. It can also be enhanced with a cone type $300 dollar(US) version of the K&N with a direct large tube directly to the throttle body. Some there have also enlarged the throttle body for more airflow. The combination of less incoming restriction and a free flowing exhaust has improved their performance with the added benefit(?) of a better sounding exhaust note. The plus 4 plugs show a slight performance gain. See the sites posted by sdmike and 300Michael. The mods all are not inexpensive. Good Luck.
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    It is not clear to me how the residual value is calculated in this survey. Are they using a percentage of MSRP, or some other amount? I'm assuming MSRP, else incentives would not have much impact if based upon the actual out the door price.

    We'll see if VW actually holds that much value in three years. Most banks and lenders have been getting slammed on residual values being overestimated at the time of purchase. To me, VW seems to be the kind of car people want new, but not necessarily as a used car.

    I do agree that the Intrepid's resale will be lower than average based upon MSRP.
  • costenjcostenj Posts: 14
    Hey has anyone noticed excessive acid (crust) build-up on the battery terminals? And what is the easiest way to go about cleaning the terminals? The battery is down very low on my '99 2.7 and beneath the air filter box area making it appear arduous to access.

    How does one access the battery easily? (for removal or maintenance etc.)
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Use a long brush and a mixture of baking soda and water, about equal parts of each. Brush the mixture on the corrosion and let it set but do not let it dry. Rinse with plain water. If you don't have a long brush the air cleaner assembly will come out to access the battery. Good Luck.
  • costenjcostenj Posts: 14
    Hey has anyone had to top up their coolant/antifreeze? I just noticed mine is a bit below the MIN level. But in buying some of the orange colour coolant, I was told not to use DexCool and that it doesn't work with 98-99 LH D.C. cars. If that's the case, what do I buy?!!
  • I had a '93 Intrepid, A/C went out so I traded for a 2000 Intrepid E/S. Big mistake, after 2 years of talking to 2 dealers, a letter to Dodge, and a visit by a factory rep who all insisted my problems were normal. I had transmission probs(jerk), A/C came and went, other things had to be fixed, usually took 2 or more trips to dealer. I expected much higher quality. Their answer was to explain why things were working the way they did and had no concern for my problems. Overall very poor quality...I fixed the problem by trading it in on a 2002 Toyota Camry. The Camry is great!! the quality I expected.
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    costenj,

    you can't mix different types of coolant. i'm not sure what dodge specifies for your year intrepid, but the owners manual should tell you...
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Posts: 185
    Anybody got one of these?

    I was bummed when I saw how much more you got in this trim level compared to what I paid for the 2002 SE with some options (the group with keyless entry, blah, blah, blah). While I am not a fan of the spoiler and silly looking wheels on the SXT, it comes with the 3.5 engine and similar options, all at the same (or less) than what I paid for my SE with the 2.7.

    But, I guess the one we got looks more the role it fills anyhow, transport of the wife 10 miles to work and back every day.
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    Yeah, I'm not a big fan of the spoiler or chrome wheels myself. One thing I like about the 2000-2001 R/T's was no chromed wheels or spoiler - just a matter of personal preference.

    I think if I was buying a 2002, I might go for the ES version. You give up only 10 horsepower to the SXT, but you gain a smoother ride, more subdued exterior, and more option choices. I would miss the autostick I have in my 2000 R/T, but you cannot get that in the SXT anyways.

    It seems the ES and SXT are pretty closely priced, are they not?
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,902
    Here's how they price out...

    SE: $20,810
    ES: $22,970
    SXT: $23,660
    R/T: $27,705

    Add $650 for destination charge

    I remember the sticker on my '00 base was $20,950, and $560 of that was destination. Guess they haven't gone up too much, in general, although the destination charge, as a percentatage, seems like it's been jacked up disproportionately (about 16%)
  • the rt/sxt all have the same horsepower as the 300m/special (although, the 300 special benefits from a better exhaust.. some more ponies). The real only difference is that the cars are all rated on different gas (regular-midgrade-high test.).The sxt lost all the good stuff (drive train components) that the r/t had.
  • well there is nothing like driving a dull, boring, breadbox that your grandparents would drive. And this talking about the exterior only ( i'm not even going to begin to talk about the interior). I guess if you like dull, boring, no lines type of cars then this is the car for you. Although, I would probably walk or ride my bike first.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,902
    ...a few months ago, when my Mom & stepdad were looking at cars. The only thing I'd say it really has over the Intrepid is the fit and finish. The body panels line up better, and the gaps are more even. That's it though. The sheetmetal might as well have "Shotz Brewery" stamped on it...you'd swear it was put out by Laverne & Shirley!! The decklid was so flimsy I could probably bend it out of shape with my bare hands.

    Interior-wise, it had the same seating position of my '89 Gran Fury. So basically, it'd make a fine taxi or police car, if the durability was there for it to put up with that kind of abuse. The Camry is definitely under-tired. The interior quality...I'd put it at okay, but no better than the Intrepid. The Camry looks like it went through some cost cutting with the current style. More hard plastic, thin cloth, etc, than in years gone by.

    Maybe once upon a time, you could say that, oh, an '83 Camry had a nicer interior than an '83 Reliant (in their defense, those old Camries had really nice interiors for the time), but today, I really see no clear-cut advantage to one over the other. Some people will prefer the Camry interior, some the Intrepid.

    The simple fact is there's really not that much difference. For every Dodge horror story out there, there's a Toyota horror story, a Honda horror story, a couple of Nissan horror stories, and 7 or 8 VW horror stories (with assorted sequels) :-P
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    Saw a list of 2003 Dodge prices, it only listed two models - SE and SXT.

    I know the R/T is dead, but the ES is coming back, isn't it?
  • The int ES is still alive and kicking. This public service announcement is brought to you by somebody who knows these cars inside out. Anyway, happy motoring.
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    The site for my M is at http://community.webshots.com/user/my300m_ for pictures, the Homestead site has been discontinued.
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