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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • mdeymdey Posts: 90
    Remember the part where I said fool me once, shame on me?
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,577
    make the brakes any harder to work on? One thing I like about my Intrepid is that it takes maybe 20 minutes to change the front pads. Does ABS make otherwise simple stuff like that more aggravating?
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    mdey,

    the part of your post that stood out was "chrysler won't fool me twice". i don't think chrysler ever set out to fool you or anyone else...just because you weren't smart enough to check and see whether the car had anti-locks is your own problem and noboby elses!
  • mdeymdey Posts: 90
    I take full responsibility for my own actions, always have. And you might be surprised at just how smart I am. I repeat, fool ME once. I am disappointed in Chrysler, but I AM the one who overlooked the option. My problem is not intelligence; it is time (or lack of it).

    I will pay better attention in the future though. With all of the discontenting that is going on in the auto industry, we all will have to.

    You fellas sure do enjoy a good debate. Just remember that a good debater doesn't insult the opponent.

    But let's return to the issue of ABS. How can a car without ABS be a good thing? Aside from the fact that you might actually need those airbags (which are still standard by the way--by law in the U.S. at least), and your insurance will be higher (my experience), how is a car without ABS better than one with ABS? I have two other cars with ABS and I have experienced "saves" under certain conditions that might have created a bad result without ABS.

    As for changing the brakes, I just replaced brakes on four wheels, including rotors and drums, on a vehicle I own that has ABS. Following the shop manual, all I had to do was disconnect the battery.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    This is how they keep the price level. When I bought our '99 ES in 2/99, I got all the bells and whistles available for $24,000. 3.2 Liter, Autostick, Moon roof, ABS, Leather, two power seats, the fancy sound system etc. When I saw what they did in later years, I was not surprised, but made me aware of being careful.

    The bottom line for me: Use Edmunds.com alot when buying, and pay attention to detail.

    Happy 'Trepping

    ES
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    of my Intrepid the other day, I could not help but notice how difficult it must be to replace the radiator. It looks like you have to take half the front end off! I mean, I am used to removing a few bolts and the cooler lines and, presto, the job is done. Maybe I will have to take a closer look but it seemed to be very time consuming. And the A/C compressor is also in a difficult place to get to. Well, so much for Chrysler engineering?!
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    Mike getting the rad out is not a hard job at all. If you remove what we at the plant call the diving board- 8 bolts 4 headlamp screws and a few plastic rivets that metal cover lifts off and gives you great access to the rad , belts and fans . You can have that piece off in 10-15 min. You must have the 2.7 , with the A/C compressor down below. Yup its not in a great place is it!!!

    Also doing the brakes on a ABS car is no different than on a non-ABS car . As long as you dont open the fluid lines and have to bleed the brakes , everything is the same.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,577
    I don't think it's the engineering that's so bad, that forced everything into such awkward places under the hood. It's more of a result of having to squeeze all that stuff into such a tiny place in the first place! With the way the front of the car tapers, and the slope of the hood, there's really not much room in there at all.

    One thing I'm impressed with though, is the location of the oil filter. The 2.7 has got to be about the easiest car I've ever had to change the oil on! I can actually get to it without having to raise the car up. Just pull it to the edge of the driveway, where the ground slopes away from it, and I can get under there no trouble at all!

    I wonder if the switch back to RWD, and the bigger, blockier looking front-ends, will open up some room under the hood?
  • riopelleriopelle Posts: 132
    I've cross-posted this news on the Intrepid replacement board, but I thought people here might be interested too:

    I saw 4(!) lightly disguised Magnums here in Boston at 8am this morning, two on the Harvard bridge, two parked on Memorial Drive (for those of you who know Boston). Two were the wagon, two were a notchback sedan. They looked almost exactly like the show vehicle, as is typical of DC. They had incredible presence, and were lower than I expected (no taller in appearance than my protege) but that might have been a result of the small window, square jaw and wide stance. Awesome, radical proportions.

    The notchback was less attactive to me, it had a CTS-like profile with a short rear deck. It was nice, don't get me wrong, but the wagon is the showstopper. I am very sorry I didn't have my camera with me!

    I don't have anything else to add, I'm not in the market for a car this size or a big DC fan, but wow, it is gorgeous. DC is seriously on a styling role. Just thought I'd share with you the news. Take care and cheers.
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    If you do open the lines how is the brake job different on a car with ABS. I'm just thinking- I tried to move my moms wrecked GTS the other day and it didnt move very well. I know the front axle is a little screwed up but I expected it to move more freely when I gave it some gas. The front right line was severed in the accident and since the car has ABS I'm wondering if the brakes are locked up for some reason. Maybe I should try removing one of the wheels (other that the damaged one where the rotor was broken) and see if the rotor moves freely. I am thinking about fixing it up.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    What you have to do with an ABS car when you bleed the brakes is open the solenoids in the ABS pump so that no air remains in the system . The factory service manual says to bleed the brakes the normal way first , then bleed them with a BRD scan tool to open the solenoids and then to rebleed them all over agin with no DRB .
     I dont think the ABS is problem with that car , if the line is cut you would lose fluid and you would have no brakes . If it does not move well something is jammed or damged that causes the car not move
  • vikdvikd Posts: 187
    ...Wife is looking to unload the Civic. We saw your exact vehicle ('00 2.7l) with the standard automatic and 43k at the local dealership yesterday.

    What are your general thoughts on this vehicle? I assume, since this is the Intrepid board, that there will be a fair amount of fans of this vehicle here and that's fine. I'd also like to hear about the concerns with this veh though, as well as the positives.

    I've honestly not shopped the Intrepid before (like I said, this would be the wifey's) so I am pretty uninformed at this point. I would appreciate any feedback you, or anyone else, could give me regarding this veh. Thanks!

    Regards... Vikd
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    If the selling price of 2000 Intrepid SE's are what I think they are, I would not have any qualms about buying one. While I have an R/T, I think the SE may have a smoother ride, and I think the 2000's had not been so badly cheapened up yet.

    That being said, there should be tons of used Intrepid's floating around, so I would take the time to look at a number of them. A lot of Intrepids have been either former rental cars, or owned by younger people who may not have spent the money to maintain them properly. So I would take my time and look at a few.
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Anyone else experiencing this? My trunk will open ONLY with the key...the remote works for the door locks and the "panic" feature but won't open the trunk. Neither will the trunk release on the dash.. OTTOWRKER...is this a fuse?
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,577
    Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier, but I just got back from the all-Mopar nationals in Carlisle, PA about an hour ago. Sad isn't it, that the first thing I do is get on the computer!!

    Anyway, I've been pretty happy with my '00. It has just under 82,000 miles on it, and I can't complain. I hate to sound too generic here, but the best thing you could do is get a competent mechanic to look the thing over, and check out the usual trouble spots. Hopefully, you can see the service records for the car. The 2.7 is a good little engine, but I've heard it's prone to sludging if you let it go too long between oil changes. I always change mine every 3-4K (I try for 3K, but did let it stretch to around 4K a few times).

    I believe they got most of the kinks out of the tranny by '96 or so, but they still keep on tweaking it here and there, with every new model year, so I'm guessing it's still not bulletproof. I get my fluid changed every 30,000 miles, just to be safe. I think the owner's manual says every 100K miles for "regular" service, and every 50K miles for "severe" service. I'm not taking any chances though. I'd rather pay the $100 every 30K miles to have my mechanic service it, than worry about a $2500+ repair sometime down the road. Maybe if I was going to trade the car in soon, I might be tempted to skimp, but I need this thing to last me.

    Anyway, here's a rough rundown of things that have gone wrong over the years...

    30K miles: new tires (OEM Goodyear Eagle GA's wear out FAST!), tranny service, alignment check.

    35K miles: power lock actuator in driver's door went out, replaced under warranty.

    39K miles: new front brake pads (I delivered pizzas back then, with a lot of stop-and-go driving. I was pleasantly suprised that they lasted that long, but I think others on this board have gotten more out of them)

    ~44K miles: rear door seal started to shrink, letting in air, but not water. Also, the passenger side mirror adjust went out, but I just left it broken, and adjust it by hand if it shifts.

    51K miles: new rear brake pads, spark plugs, and thermostat housing. I've heard the thermostat housing is actually a common problem on these. At least, that's what my mechanic said. It cost about $210 to replace. The part was around $84, and the rest was labor to put it on. It had actually been leaking for awhile, but stupid me, it looked like it was leaking out of a nozzle, so I thought it was supposed to do that! That's what I get for being so used to older cars, that would actually blow off a little coolant when pressure got too high. I should've known that no new car is supposed to do that!!

    62K miles: tranny service, alignment

    69K miles: new front brake pads. I made the mistake of putting cheap, no-name pads on at 39K. This time around, I put some fairly expensive Bendix pads on, so they should last a lot longer.

    77K miles: new tires.

    And that's about it, other than occasional stuff like rotating the tires, every 3rd oil change, and replacing the air filter and pcv valve every 15K miles or so.

    I'm honestly not sure when the belts and hoses come due, but the coolant is supposed to be good for 5 years/100K miles, I think. Just to play it safe though, I might have the belts, hoses, and coolant, and tranny, done in November or at 90K miles, whichever comes first. In Nov, I'll have had the car 4 years, so I figure that's a good interval, anyway.

    As for gas mileage, I've gotten anywhere between just under 20 mpg (wintertime, delivering pizzas, running on that nasty oxygenated gas) to just over 30 (on a trip, running around the speed limit of 65...Dad was in the car and he gripes when I go too fast!)

    I think 2002 was actually the year they started cheapening them up. One thing I noticed was that they quit putting carpeting and cloth on the door panels. The cloth was replaced with vinyl and the carpet was just gone, exposing the hard plastic underneath.

    Somewhere along the line though, they dropped a few other things. I think they also dropped the rear sway bar (a shame, because even in base form, the 'Trep would outhandle uplevel versions of cars like the Regal, Taurus, Impala, etc), and the tint on the windows. Mine still gets hot enough inside with the windows all the way up though, so I'm not sure how useful the tint is, anyway!

    Last time I was at the dealership was about a month or so ago for a recall...something about some bolts in the backrest of the seat that could break. While I was there, I looked around the lot, and saw about 5 or 6 '02 Intrepids, all base SE models, with about 20-25K miles on them, for around $12,995. Some of 'em had alloy wheels, some of 'em didn't.

    Well, that's it in a nutshell...hope this helps. Also hope you're still awake after reading all this!!
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    jason , HHHMMM !!! thats a question that cant be easily answered over the web. But if both the button and fob wont make the trunk open , could be the little motor on the trunk realese unit itself. You would have to check for power and ground at the motor. then go from there
    Hope this helps
    Otto
  • 93taurus93taurus Posts: 6
    This is my first message to my fellow Intrepid owners. Bought my Trep in 7/02. I rented a similar Trep on my vacation in Florida. I loved the car, so I purchased a 98 trep with a 2.7 litre engine, with 6.000 miles on it. The only problems that I have experienced was the a/c blew hot on a 100 degree day. The dealer took care of it after two attempts. I beleive they replaced a body control module, which was covered under warranty. Also they replaced the rear door seals at no charge. Has anyone considered a performance exhaust with twin pipes?
  • scott1256scott1256 Posts: 531
    My wife and daughter just picked up our 2002 Intrepid this morning. A silver SE, power seat, CD, keyless entry, bench seat, 21,000 miles. Final price was $10,800.
    I also have a 2001 for business use that we bought in May of 2002, and I have been very please with it. It is hard to find a better buy out there right now - the value quotient is high.
    The business car is a Chrysler Intrepid, bought in Canada as an Avis used rental car. Intrepids are badged as Chryslers in Canada.
    Probably will look into the extra warranty for the new 2002 - wonder what that will cost for 5yr/100,000 miles?
    Cheers,
    Scott D.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,577
    congrats on the second purchase! I don't know what an extended warranty would cost on a used car, but on my '00, when I bought it new, it was $1205, for what they call "bumper to bumper", although there's still a lot of things that doesn't cover. Mine also has a $200 deductible.

    I got it through the dealer, and have never had to use it. I dunno if I overpaid or not, but I figure if the tranny or engine blows at 99,000 miles, it'll more than pay for itself!

    I always thought it'd be kinda cool to have a Chrysler Intrepid...I think it would make a neat conversation piece! I wonder if that causes them problems though, selling Chrysler Concordes and Chrysler Intrepids in the same showroom?
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    andre1969- dont forget about the 300M , all three LH cars selling in one dealer .
      I myself do not like the Intrepid being a Chrysler in Canada. Chrysler to me is the luxury brand of DC . The Trep should be Dodge , the performance division. The Cocncorde is luxury , the Trep sporty/performance amd the 300 luxury performance . I hope when the LX cars come out the Dodge version will be Dodge in Canada .
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