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Dodge Intrepid

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  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    To not worry about things is true freedom. We are taking the Intrepid to Florida next week and when the trip is over, should be right around 98,000 miles and due for an oil change. I'm going to get the timing belt changed then, a little before the 100,000 mile recommendation.

    Enjoy,

    ES 99
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,897
    well I wish you, your family, and your Intrepid a safe trip ES! Are you going to get the water pump changed when you do the timing belt?
  • petewlkppetewlkp Posts: 2
    i just traded in my 99 intrepid two weeks ago and got $1800 towards a new corolla. i guess i should be happy i even got that much. far from the $27000 i paid for it five years ago. in the five years i owned it, all i had was major problems. engine was changed twice, a/c kompressor went last year, locks didn't work and two windows didn't open. and i even changed my oil every 4000 kilometers. all i have to say is that i will never buy a chrysler again.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,897
    back from the mechanic. Nothing serious, I just figured it was time to get the back brakes checked. I had to have new rear brake shoes put on at 52,000 miles, and the ones I put on were cheapo Trak Auto pads, so I figured that now, at 102,000, it was time to get them checked.

    They were "marginal", meaning that they still had a bit of meat on them, but would soon be cutting into the rotor. And they had also glazed over, so that damaged the rotor a bit. Still, they were able to machine the rotors rather than replace them, and while they were in there they cleaned and adjusted the parking brake, and put on new Bendix pads. So hopefully I won't have anything to worry about back there for at least another 50,000 miles.
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    I'm amazed...

    My 1999 Intrepid ES has 146,000 miles on it, on the original engine & tranny too. The engine is still so quiet I sometimes wonder if I had it turned on.

    My only problems with the car in 6 years: 1) The fan assembly needed to be replaced 2) The blower motor needed to be replaced 3) The ignition switch needed to be replaced.

    I've had to put some money into the front end and I'm still not happy with the ride on a rough road, but other than that, I see no reason why this car won't go another 150,000 miles. To that end a 300 HEmi AWD or a Dodge Charger (AWD when available) are my next chioce.
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    My 1999 Intrepid ES got it's timing belt changed at about 140,000 miles. My mechanic warned me NOT to wait until there was a problem and said I was overdue. What if the car starts making noise Monday morning and the belt snaps Monday night?
    I doubt anyoe can say for sure how long a belt will last. But I wouldn't wait - if the car has over 100,000 miles you're due. And yes you should change the water pump at the same time since the entire front of the car will need to come off anyway.
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    As I've said in previous posts, My 1999 ES has been a pretty amazing performer. My only gripe is how mushy it has become on rough roads. I've had the tie rod ends, struts (twice), insulator, strut mate boot kits, and ths stabilizer links replaced and the car is still lousy.

    Anyone have any ideas? Do I need to go to heavy duty Struts or Air shocks?
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    I think those Bendix pads have a lifetime warranty. You may not need the warranty unless your Trep lasts another 50 to 60K miles. Too bad the car doesnt come with a lifetime warranty.

    My Trep just passed its two year mark. With only 17K miles its almost as good as new. Looks like the tires will need replacing at 30-35K miles. I just changed the oil with Mobil One and a Wix filter.
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    Which brand struts did you replace the OEM's with. I know that with my 91 Celica I bought Monroe's and they were a different design than the OEM struts. They actually fit inside the original strut housing and were much narrower than the OEM's. From now on I will only buy original equipment struts. The OEM struts actually were the complete assembly, not just inserts.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,897
    My Intrepid is just a base model with the 2.7, which uses timing chains. If I had a 3.2 or 3.5, which uses a timing belt, then I'd definitely get it done at the required interval. A chain will usually give you some warning before it fails though. Not always, but usually. So how much did it end up costing you to get the timing belt and waterpump done?

    One of my friends just had the timing belt and water pump changed on his 1998 Tracker. Total bill came out to about $838, which included an unrelated $75 to diagnose a Service Engine Soon warning light. Now I have no idea how hard it is to get to the water pump and timing belt on a '98 Tracker. Everything else on that truck has cost more than I thought it should, though!

    Back in '96, I had the timing belt changed on a 1988 LeBaron turbo coupe. I think that came out to around $300, once you factor in the camshaft and crankshaft seals. I hear that the 2.2 was a really easy engine to work on, though.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,670
    It is good to hear you used Bendix pads...back when I sold auto parts, not too long ago [cars still had points and condenser, oh, I guess, about 10 years ago, right???...:):):):):) ], we sold anybody's brand of relined shoes, or Brand X new disc pads, but for the customers who requested, we sold new Bendix shoes and pads...to this day, I will always pay extra for Bendix pads, as I feel they are the best out there...
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    The following work was done in Queens (NYC) on 11/04 (139,000 Miles) For a total of $583:

    Replace L/S Stablizer Link
    Replace Timing Belt
    Replace Alternator / Power Steering Belt
    Replace AC Belt
    Replace Water Pump
    Repair L/S Rear Tire
    Replace Engine Seal Kit
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    Mike
    Regarding your dad's SUV...It appears by your post that he wasn't hurt badly and that is GREAT news.

    Back in 1999 after my first wife invited me out the door, I didn't want to put a $10,000 down payment on the Intrepid to keep it somewhat affordable. I put $4000 down and leased it for 36 months, then I bought it (with 85000 miles) for $13000 over 4 years. This is the WORST way to pay for a car. You will pay more dollars over the longest period of time for a car. BUT - you get the car you want, rather than putting around in a Honda Civic.
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    One other thing comes to mind...my 1987 Cougar had a timing chain too...it had 230,000 miles on it when it was donated 2 years ago. The tranny lasted 200,000 miles and the engine was original. Had I kept the car myself (I sold it to my idiot cousin, who is a serial-killer of automobiles) I'm guessing the car would still be on the road - original drive-train intact.
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    And then there are some who say Monroes are a definite improvement over Original Equipment. I replaced the original struts because I wanted to, not because I needed too. The two pairs of struts since installed in the front end have been miserable. The first new pair failed after 20,000 miles. Don't know what to think. All I know is that an otherwise perfect car turns into Jello over rough roads.
    My gut tells me Heavy Duty Monroes or some Chip-Foose design at all four corners would fix the problem. But I hear ya...what could be better than what originally worked? Anyone else wants to chime in?
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    I dont know much about struts as the Celica is the first car that I replaced them in. I just didnt like the idea that they actually were inserted in the original strut housing and also that the instuctions said to put a certain amount of oil from the original in the area between the insert and outer casing.

    Yea, Edmunds took the Escape post off because they said that it appeared like I was offering the wreck for sale plus they said the topic didnt fit the Trep forum. I kind of figured that they would not like it. :(
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    "they" would be happy to discuss the issues with you by email if you continue to have concerns about that action - pat AT edmunds.com .
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    We're back from the Florida Keys. Had a good time with some snorkeling, kayaking, swimming and general touring. No fishing by us, but did see some amazing catches being brought in. Enjoyed some good seafood.

    A rear tire separated (but didn't go flat) at about 75 MPH on I-95 north just south of Cape Canavaral. A lot of vibration and little chunks of rubber flying out the rear. Got it changed pretty quickly to the full size spare (one of the original Goodyears) and on our way we went. Have a couple of new Michelins on the front now. My wife had run that tire flat for a few blocks about 18 months and 20,000 miles ago, so that probably had something to do with that one going.

    We got help up for about an hour, due to Explorer we eventually saw up on the tow truck. It had obviously been completely rolled--all the glass was broken out and it looked like someone had beaten it with a sledge hammer. I hope noone was hurt badly or killed.

    The Trep is now at just over 98,000 miles. Regarding the timing belt and water pump, yes, I'm going to have the pump changed at the same time. That's what everyone seems to recommend given the labor required just to get to the pump and belt--you don't want to do it twice.

    Enjoy,

    ES99
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,897
    I'm driving out in my Trep to Cincinnati (about a 500 mile trip) with a friend to pick up a 1976 Pontiac Grand LeMans I found on eBay. Hopefully it'll be an uneventful trip. Ooh, that reminds me, I guess I'd better go renew my AAA membership. Considering that I'm going out to pick up an almost 30 year old car I have no prior experience with, and my Intrepid's pushing 103,000 miles now, that might be a good idea! :)
  • Hey guys, quick question. I bought my intrepid from a dealer about four five months ago, the car runs great even though I drive it about 70 miles a day (work 34 ml from home). So far I put about 7,000 miles on her, since the odometer is reading 95,434, should it be a good deal to replace major parts like my belts?
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    At 100,000 miles a new timing belt is recommended (and people usually do the water pump at the same time-due to the fact that the same labor is needed to change the timing belt and water pump). As for the other belts, there is no recommended time or mileage to change them, but it would seem reasonable to do those at the same time as the timing belt. That's what I plan to do next month. There are now 98,400 miles on mine.
    :shades:
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,897
    I dunno if this might be a good ballpark figure for the 3.5, but on my Intrepid's 2.7, they call for changing the accessory belts (it has one serpentine belt and one secondary belt that goes to the a/c, IIRC) at 60,000 miles. I waited until around 85,000 to do mine. Not on purpose, but for some reason I had 5 years/100K miles on the brain, I guess!

    But yeah, like Smithed says, if you're going to do the timing belt, and water pump, you might as well get new accessory belts as well, since they're going to have to take them offf anyway to get to the water pump/timing belt.

    You also might want to check the brake pads and see how much "meat" you have left on them. Most likely if you bought the car from a dealer, it had to pass inspection. However, those brakes could have been at the bare minimum to pass. If they wear down too far and the rivets start cutting into the rotor, that's going to be another expense. BTW, what year is your Intrepid? I recently replaced the front brake pads and rotors on my '00 Intrepid. I did it myself, and it cost maybe 85 bucks. Expect to pay a little more for the mechanic to do it, though! And rear disc brakes tend to be pricier than the front.
  • Sounds like a plan since the dealer I bought my car from has a reputation with selling lemons. At the time though he was the only I could get a car from in short notice for the money and my old buckle, just glad I have a 2 year/24,000 mile warranty on her.

    As for my brake pads, they are starting to feel rough so I will get them done within a week or so. The best part is I know how to change the front pads, unfortunately the rear will need to be done by the professionals.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,670
    If I bought a well-used car like yours, unless you know what was recently changed, I would change all the fan/serpentine belts, change timing belt and water pump, consider changing hoses and coolant (don't they last now right around 100K, so that time is fast approaching)...

    also change oil and filter, and tranny fluid has probably not been changed for 50K or more (unless you have repair records showing what was done)...rear end fluid is probably original, and I would bet that your power steering fluid is deep black (filthy), probably original, and should be flushed with fresh fluid...most folks when they approach trade-in of their car, let maintenance go to hell...

    as long as I am having a good time spending your money, consider flushing the brake fluid with fresh fluid, since the brake fluid is hydrophilic (it likes and attracts moisture, aka water), and old fluid is the best way for brake calipers (you have 4 with 4-wheel disc) to rust...fresh fluid may save rotors, brake pads and calipers, since rusty calipers from bad brake fluid can cost you big $$$ if they freeze up...

    all this might not be necessary of you bought the Trep with, say, 30-50K miles, but you are just shy of 100K miles, the time when almost EVERYTHING should be changed, flushed, replaced as routine maintenance, etc... you bought the equivalent of a 10-15 year old home just before you would expect to replace the roof, the furnace, and paint the outside...it would be nice if you knew that some stuff, especially fluids, were changed at 70K or 80K (not counting engine oil, every 3K if dino or 5K-7K for synthetic), but if you do not know, better to change fluids as a precaution, because old fluid may cause you severe costly repairs, but routine fluid maintenance may let your Trep go another 50K-75K miles, which would more than pay for the cost of routine fluid maintenance...

    yes, I am a stickler for fluid maintenance, since perioodic fluid flush is virtually the only way to clean various components of the car, and fresh fluid to the component is like taking a shower with soap and water after being in the hot desert for a week without a shower for 7 days...if you can imagine how you would feel, that is how your components feel with fresh, clean, fluid...almost sounds like a Zest commercial, doesn't it???...

    seriously, I know you probably were not prepared for this kind of expense, but unless you have maintenance records, you really did buy the car when all this stuff is recommended to be done anyway, and unless something is literally on the verge of mechanical breakdown, changing fluids will help the car dramatically...I also forgot air filter (easy to remember) and fuel filter (not so easy to remember, change every 25K miles or so)...don't be surprised if the fuel filter is also factory original...enough for now...

    but please tell me what your power steering fluid looks like...if you have a clear plastic reservoir, I will bet my nickel that your fluid is solid black, instead of a clean, clear color...

    this started out as one paragraph, but I went back to edit it so that I would not be cited by the "paragraph police" for running on and on...I hope I am beginning to attain a passing grade...it's so hard when I really cannot speak the English language, but I am tops in Sanskrit and the language spoken on the lost island of Atlantis...:):):):):)
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,897
    your post got me to thinking...I've got about 103,500 miles on my Intrepid now, and it's on the original brake and power steering fluid. This morning before leaving to work I checked the power steering fluid and, sure enough, it's a nice, dark brownish color. Guess it's about time for me to take it in and get it, along with the brake fluid, flushed out. Wish I had thought to have that done a couple weeks ago, when it went in for rear brakes.

    Isn't the fuel filter actually in the gas tank? Wouldn't that get expensive to have to change every 25,000 miles? I do my air filter around every 15-20,000 miles, and try to get the pcv valve at the same time.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,670
    I believe you are correct, the fuel filter is in the gas tank...maybe every 25K may be overkill (or is it?) but every 50K would mean that the second fuel filter would be installed at 100K miles...and when you think how many gallons of fuel goues thru the tank and how much crap may be in the fuel, changing the filter seems like some of the smallest preventive maint you could do...after all, if you can add a quart of oil if you run low on the road, you can add brake fluid in a moment if your pedal feels spongy, and you can add washer fluid if your glass is filthy...if your car stops or drives sluggish because of a clogged fuel filter, or an "almost clogged" filter, it will be maintenance you will certainly regret overlooking...one way to make it easier may be a solution from the old days...if you are old enough to remember the bronze rock filter in Delco Rochester carbs, it was one of GM's worst inventions since the square wheel, because everyone would strip the aluminum threads on the screw that held the filter in the carb, necessitating replacement of the carb...most folks discarded the junk bronze filter, left the compartment empty, and installed an inline filter that was 10 times bigger, had transparent plastic to view the deterioration of the filter material color, and could be replaced in under 3 minutes... maybe the filter could be discarded and there must be sufficient fuel line in which to place an inline filter, since the fuel tank is in the back and the engine is in the front... andre, if you are not old enough to remember rotten Rochester carburetors, then everything I just wrote will be meaningless to you...
  • Hey all,
    New to the posting on here. Just wanted to put a statement on here, before my Intrepid is GONE!!! I am no stranger to Dodge, I have owned 4. I know that ALL cars have their own little problems, BUT, I can say that this is the last Dodge I will ever own. I bought the car from a Dodge dealer in the Capital District here in Albany, New York. It is a 1998 Dodge Intrepid and only had 9,000 miles on it (purchased used at the end of 98). I never abuse my cars (pay more attention to cars and relationships) and this one was no exception. From needing to replace 3 Serpentine belts and pulley systems (not covered under contract), to the replacement of 2 Engines (1 covered/1 not), and 1 Transmission, as well as MANY, MANY, MANY, other parts (that were not covered) in this car (if you would like to call it that), I have decided to just get rid of it at 113,000 miles. I got soooooooo tired of putting all this money into a car that is only valued at $1700 +/- (trade in). I liked the car for the size. The leg room was awesome (very tall here). Who can forget the styling, it is very nice to look at. But the problems are out weighing all of the benefits. All said and done, I have put more than $5000+ outta pocket and contract work put about $4000+ into this car, at first I thought maybe the problems will work out. Why wouldn't I, I owned a Neon. But they just kept going and going and going. As a matter of fact, the engine blew in the car again last week :sick: , so when I trade I will only get about $500. To me its not even worth it to keep on trucking this oversized paperweight. Again I liked the car, but advise to people THINKING of getting into an Intrepid, think long and hard. Is it going to be worth it? :lemon: I personally will be sooooooooooooooo happy to get out of this car, I pick up my Brand New Car tomorrow, mind you it WILL NOT be a Dodge!!!
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    You got a lemon :lemon: . Not all Treps have had the problems you've had. My 1999 ES is now at 148,000 miles :) and I swear to you the engine is as quiet today as it was the day I bought it (7/31/99 with 4800 miles on it). I have put money into the car (see my posts above) but NEVER into the drivetrain. My only complaint is that the car rides mushy on my crappy NYC secondary roads. That can change with some original equipment struts but that's more money later...not now. My Trep is so good my two sons will get it next year, in mint condition. I see no reason the engine will not go 250,000 or even 300,000 miles. The tranny is also exceptional, and if I get 200,000 or 250,000 miles out of it I would not be surprised - I just don't think trannies are engineered as well as engines.
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    Oh yeah one more thing...my next car will be a Dodge Charger Hemi with AWD - probably in 2007. Like you, I've had pretty good luck with most DodgeCars :D
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