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Dodge Intrepid

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  • Hey, I just picked up a 2004 SE with 12,000 on it for $10,000
    I am just wondering if the problems that I hear about the 2.7 engine should worry me or not. I will definetly maintain it regularly but is there something that I should know that I haven't heard?
    I haven't had it for long but I love it already!
    So anyone I could use some feedback
    Thanks in Advance!
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    100,000 miles at 4:23 PM EDST 6/2/05 :) . Now on to the timing belt and water pump. What do you think for that? Dealer on independent garage?

    Thanks
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,673
    I would price both, and if the dealer is within $50 of the independent, use the dealer, as the small difference in price is worth their "knowledge" of the vehicle, and they stock parts if anything else goes wrong...over $100 diff is, IMO, too much to pay for their "knowledge", and I would use the independent...
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Thanks,

    That makes the dealer look like the better bet right now.

    :shades:
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    I'm looking for torque specs on the ball joint and control arm /frame bolt.

    Would anyone have any info?

    thanks
  • rferd43rferd43 Posts: 20
    I have recently found a problem with the gas gauge on my 2000 2.7 Intrepid. While I am driving, sometimes bells start ringing and the gauge needle moves to Empty. Then suddenly, it goes back to its normal reading. Has anyone experienced this problem and if so, do you know a way to fix this annoying noise and erratic behavior? :mad:
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,673
    I had the SAME exact problem on my 2000 Intrepid ES 3.2L...with no relation to any other factor I could determine, my fuel gauge would sometimes just drop to zero, causingthe "low fuel" light to ring, and three seconds later bounce back to full and the bell stopped ringing...could drop and rise 5 times in a minute, or drop once in a week...never found out what caused it, just prayed that it would not occur on the day I gave it back to the leasing company...I assume maybe a bad sensor in the fuel tank, and if it shorts out for a second, no contact is made, gauge does not work, bell rings...because of the instant '"come and go" problem, I thought it was a short or a break in an electrical wire connection, possibly running to a sensor...let me know how you eventually solve it...I thought I was the only one in the world who experienced that problem, but I am not alone... :confuse: :confuse:
  • rferdrferd Posts: 28
    I was told that it had to do with the gas cap but I made sure that it was placed correctly and still does it every once in a while. Maybe someone else will report the problem and perhaps a solution. Let's wait and see. :confuse:
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,958
    and the Trep is still in one piece, more or less. I did have a little lapse in judgement and common sense though, and got into a little tangle with a sliced off piece of metal sign pole that was sticking up out of the ground :cry: , but other than that the car did fine. I figure fuel economy was around 27-28, which, considering we had the trunk packed tight, and three of us, and constant a/c, was pretty good.

    I did swap out the battery on Sunday the 31st, the day before we left. It's NOT an easy job, and I was pretty fed up with the car by the time I was finished. It was bad enough that I started thinking about trading the car in before it came time to replace the battery again! :mad:

    Anyway, you basically have no choice but to jack up the car and take the tire off. You can see the battery from under the hood, but it's too big to bring it out that way, as about half of the battery is actually underneath the headlight assembly. It's best to take the air cleaner assembly loose though, because it does make access to the hold-downs much easier.

    The little plastic panel in the wheel well is pretty easy to take off, but be careful, because it's held in place by these little bolts that go through these clips that are attached to the panel. They're not attached very well, and will fall off. Also, when you're taking off the bolt for the hold-downs, make sure you cover the positive terminal with a rag or something, or you'll most likely be hitting it with your socket, and making a nice little firework display of sparks. I wonder how many people have been electrocuted trying to replace one of these batteries? :surprise:

    I'd say the whole ordeal took me about an hour and a half, maybe a bit more. One reason it took so long though was because I had to keep hunting down tools, and the socket I used had something wrong with the ratchet. It kept going into, for lack of a better word, "neutral". Somewhere between on and off.

    Oh yeah, I'm up to around 107,300 miles now. I saw a couple of Chargers while in Florida, and I really like 'em. I'll probably replace the Trep with one...eventually.
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Andre....I find myself wishing I had logged in earlier. It is possible--and easier--to remove the battery from "the top". That's how my battery was replaced in late March--it involved removing the airbox and sliding aside the positive "jump" terminal. At least that's how the mechanics at Strauss Auto did it. Watching them check on my battery later revealed they were none to gentle while doing this either.
    Other items of interest....Just had two service calls in the past two weeks. I noticed some pronounced wear on my "new" driver's side front tire after two extended trips. Turns out my front bearing had gone bad. That was replaced and the tire replaced (under warranty). Tire was actually ok save for a 15" worn stretch on the outer edge--the inner tread was fine. Thankfully they just went ahead and replaced the tire. Two days ago my 2000 ES wouldn't start after driving in a particularly severe rain storm. Turned out that my alternator had been in the process of "dying" for the past few months. Had that replaced and the battery checked yesterday. Thankfully the shop was able to check for the cheaper of several remanufactured units. Alternators--much to my surprise--can get pricey very quickly if you don't check around. Officially mileage is just over 116,000. Feeling OK about these items being replaced relative to the mileage. It's a FWD car that I don't "baby"--frankly I'm surprised I haven't had to replace the CV joints and axles yet.
    Best wishes to everyone--it'll be a busy and high mileage summer for me and my family. I'll likely pass 120,000 before fall.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,673
    rferd: while I do not know why it did that, I can assure you it was NOT my gas cap, as I was taught back in 2000 to always turn the cap 3 clicks to make sure it is properly seated...I NEVER failed to do that...

    andre: welcome back...for all the problems you had, assuming you bought a 5 year battery, you won't have to touch it for another 4 years, and your trp will have 150K-200K, and probably ready to become a boat anchor... :shades: :shades:
  • froggersjcfroggersjc Posts: 49
    You probably already heard, but you should feed the thing nothing but synthetic oil. I change Mobile 1 every 5000 miles with a new filter every 2500. This might be slight overkill but its better than having a $10,000 yard ornament. I've also heard to change the tranny fluid more often than not.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    The 100K mile service was done yesterday--timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, new serpentine and AC belts, and oil and filter. The dealer charged me $734 for that. I had checked a few independent shops and they were about the same price or more than the dealer. The battery is next I suspect. I will probably do that myself and use the "from above" method stated by Jason above. Thanks,
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,958
    but I've NEVER run synthetic oil in my 2.7, and now, at around 107,000 miles, it's still running fine. Initially I tried to change my oil every 3,000 miles, but I've been more inconsistent than I would have preferred. My oil changes have fallen between the 3-5,000 mile range.

    I keep thinking about changing to synthetic, but at this point in time, would it be worth it? If the dino juice hasn't done its job well, would the damage already be done at that point? Now one thing I HAVE done regularly is have the transaxle serviced. Every 30,000 miles. IIRC the owner's manual calls for 100,000 on the "regular" schedule and 50,000 miles on the "severe service" schedule.

    Smithed, if you do change your battery from above, let us know how it goes! Also, watch your back if you do it that way, especially if you're tall. Most likely you're going to have to do a lot of bending over and twisting and pulling, so don't pull a muscle or slip a disk or something!
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,673
    andre: I would not switch to syn oil at this juncture...probably no benefit...stick with what ya got...as long as you have a moderate amount of highway running, going 5K between oil changes is OK...if you are 75% or more city, I would try and go only 3-4K between...

    smithed: $734 does not sound bad if all that major work was done...esp timing belt and pump, and serpentine, plus the once-in-a-lifetime tuneup...if you actually do go to 200K, another $750 will be chump change...

    froggersjc: I would think overkill with no benefit whatsoever...if the oil will go 5K (some feel syn oil goes 7500-10K, but I change it every 5K) then the filter will go 5K...if you truly believe that the oil is filthy enough to change the filter at 2500, then be consistent and change the oil at 2500, because you will damage the engine with your "filthy oil"...or keep the filter to 5K, which is the correct thing to do...and if you really are pulling out that much filth at 2500, you do not need regular oil/filter changes, you need an engine flush to roto-rooter the engine and then put in fresh oil/filter every 5K, but not, IMHO, the way you are doing it now...however, YMMV...
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,958
    I'm going to try to be more faithful to 3K mile oil changes. My commute to work is only 3 1/2 miles, and most of my driving is local. My recent Florida trip was a rare occurence. Since Christmas Eve, when I hit 100,000 miles, I've put on another 7400, but at least 2000 of that was dedicated to my Florida trip. There have been months where I've only gone like 600 miles.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Yes, the $734 was for all of that. I had anticipated the entire bill to be more than that, so I was satisfied. :shades:
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,673
    or 150 miles weekly, I would consider changing your dino oil/filter every 3000 miles, every 4-5 months...while the engine is doing well, going to 5K on dino means you might change oil twice yearly...risky for an older engine, maybe???

    Bob
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Bob, I have an old beater of a van--Aerostar that has 151,000 miles on it. I put maybe 2500 miles a year on it, and have been changing the oil yearly. I've been doing that for the last 5 years or so. I'm not saying that I shouldn't change it more often, that's just what I've been doing. The Intrepid is much better taken care of.

    Ed
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,673
    Ah, there you go again...I really get annoyed when folks like you bring out some realworld facts that dispute my holier-than-thou theories...how can I pontificate on what you people need to do, how can I run your lives, how can I be the all-knowing automotive guru, when you continue to use something as silly as facts to dispute me???...how will my ego, and, most of all, how will my fans accept this???...:):):):):):):) [I think our smiley emoticons have flown the coop].

    Bob
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Okay, Okay, I'll get right out there and change my oil and start doing it every 3 months, so I'll be doing the oil change every 800 miles now. I promise. ;) ;) ;) ;)
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    to see this good natured, on-going, free-flowing conversation on our "little ol' message board"....
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,958
    I think I'm going to keep my mouth shut as to when's the last time I changed the oil in my '79 NYer! :blush: Let's just say it hasn't been 3,000 miles yet, and leave it at that! :P
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,673
    change it tomorrow, or you can't go out with the guys tomorrow night!!!

    Bob
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    We must bow to the wishes of the mas'ser. Oil changes for the house!!!
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    I saw the battery being changed on my Intrepid by my mechanic. Like I said in earlier posts, we've all got better things to do than to screw around for two hours replacing a battery. Now I've got Andre on my side too :D

    Last month I satisfied my lust for "new" wheels by picking up a 1997 Chrysler Town & Country V6 AWD. the thing is fantastic - it outshines my newer 1999 3.2L V6 Intrepid both in peformance and ride. The Trep is much better on gas.

    Next year, my sons get the Intrepid, and Dad gets whatever the hell he wants!! (Grand Prix GXP, '05 Bonneville GXP, Charger, Mustang, Impala SS, and 300 AWD are all on the short list).
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,673
    I don't see Yugo, Pinto or Vega on your short list...

    Bob
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    Sheesh...I hated all three of those cars 30 years ago when I was 15 years old...I still get the creeps seeing their names in print.

    Oh yeah....what's with the "Marsha7" screen name when your name is Bob :)
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,958
    in here lately. How are things out there in Intrepid-land? I'll be taking my Trep to the Mopar Nationals in Carlisle PA on July 8-10. The main reason I put it in is because I'm in a Mopar club and if they get enough cars on the fun field, the club wins some prize money. One thing that's interesting is that there's always a good turnout of Intrepids and other LH cars at the Mopar show, but at the GM and Ford shows, I guess people just don't get excited enough about their Impalas and Tauruses to put them on the fun field! :shades:
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,673
    I posted the answer to your query that same night, but it never appeared...then, we lost internet service for a few days, so I am just on now...and the modem may not keep going...

    When I started with Edmunds a number of years ago, naturally I had to pick a user name...I wanted to name it after my wife, so I picked marsha1...they said it was taken...I picked marsha2...it was taken...I picked marsha3...it was taken...do you detect a pattern here???...marsha7 was approved...my name, however, is Bob...

    I have wondered just how long I have been a member of Edmunds...I have tried to offer valid answers to posters' questions, and I hope I have been helpful to the folks here, not counting the occasional humorous answer because some folks leave themselves wide open when they post...

    But, in the topics I post, not counting when I ask my usual comparo questions, I really do hope I have been helpful to the Edmunds folks, as they have been very helpful to me...

    Bob :D ;) :) :blush:
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