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Dodge Intrepid

19192949697111

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  • I bought a 97' Intrepid at a gov't auction. Good deal, has been running fine. Recently all guages stop working, fuel, odometer, temp speed, tack etc. After engine cools down, appox. 15 minutes, all guages work again. Anything serious?
  • It is soon time for me to replace my 1997 Intrepid. I have always like the way the car has handled (3.5 engine/Auto)and wonder what current models may drive similarly. Honestly, i have been looking at (no test drives yet) Acura TL, Avalon, Volvo 60, Accord, Camry, etc.
    Any thoughts??
    Thanks!
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    are not that hard if what I have read is true. Search in Dodge Talk.com,you will find step by step directions and even parts lists from people who have made the swap.
    I have not had a problem with the 2.7 in my car. It gives a level of performance and economy hard to beat in a car in this price range. I can easily get 30 mpg on the highway.
    I have been looking for a replacement for the Intrepid. There is not much out there with the same room,comfort or economy. This car is still a great value. I would buy a new one if I could.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Are you looking to buy a new car? From what you have said, it looks like you are interested in a front driver rather than sticking with Chrysler and going with Charger or 300. I looked at several of those on your list. Here are my thoughts: The TL is a great car to drive, small trunk, small back seat compared to Intrepid. The Avalon is nice, in a Buick kind of way. (You might consider a LaCrosse--the hotter version--I drove one and it seemed very nice, again the back seat pales in comparison to the Intrepid). You can't go wrong with a V6 Accord or Camry, the former more fun to drive, the latter roomier. I can't say anything about the Volvo. For sheer room--look at Ford Five Hundred, the 3.0 liter is only adequate, however. What did I do?--Kept the Intrepid (now 104,000 miles) for use by my son who is nearly 17 and as a second car. Bought a 2006 300C. :shades:
  • fljoslinfljoslin Posts: 237
    What about a used newer model Intrepid. I have a 1999 ES (3.2/autostick) purchased new and love the way it drives and looks. It has been very reliable. They started putting the 3.5 L in Intrepids the following year. While you are at it what about a used 300M or LHS. They are both pretty nice cars.
  • Thanks. I rather go new since I usually hold the cars for 10 years
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    To all of my electronically introduced friends here:

    Thank you for the entertainment, thoughts and replies through the year.

    Merry Christmas to all!! Enjoy the season, remembering the real reason for this.
    :shades:
    Ed
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,142
    but my 2000 Intrepid slipped over the 113,000 mile mark yesterday afternoon. Still alive and kicking, and no unusual squeaks, noises, or other signs of impending doom! :shades:

    Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Happy Holidays all.... My 2000 ES just turned over 130,000 miles and doing well. Had the struts replaced (first time) and the left front wheel bearing. Hope all is well.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,142
    how much did the strut replacement cost? Have you noticed much of an improvement in the ride/handling? I'm thinking that with the mileage I have on mine, that I might be due soon, although it still seems to handle and ride just fine.
  • My 1999 ES (3.2L V6) is now at 154,000 miles and the drive train feels like it did when new. I'm not as thrilled with the suspension (it never DID get to where I wanted it) but since I now also have a 1997 Chrysler T&C as the everyday driver, the Intrepid has become more of a part-timer.
    Just my opinion of course - If a guy is ready to move on from their Intrepid, as long as he/she have something FWD or AWD that can get through snow, the new Charger is a thing of beauty, although the interior is rather cheap-looking (The interior door panels don't seem to seal the windows very well and the door panel itself looks like hard molded plastic - ugh). The Pontiac Grand Prix GXP and the Impala SS offer 303 HP each and FWD, and are much better appointed interior-wise that the Charger.
  • Just to expand on the suspension issue - my Intrepid had struts, boot kits, tie rod ends, and struts again changed and I still feel a "Clunk" when I hit a bump. My mechanic never seems to hear this (The T&C does the same thing), so I've given up pouring money into this issue. Like I said previously, both Mopars run silent and swift under the hood. I've contented myself that way (for now).
  • I just recently bought a Chrysler 4-disc changer that came out of a 2001 Sebring and when installed the backlights do not light up when the headlight switch is turned on. I took the deck in for repair and was told the lights are fine. I do not want to install an aftermarket stereo because of looks, but have not had luck finding Chrysler CD players. Has anyone experienced this? If not, maybe someone can give me some leads on where I can find a stereo.
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Don't have the bill to parse out each item but the struts (plates, isolators, etc), wheel bearing, oil change, replacing two dash bulbs and alignment came to $850. That included labor, parts, etc. I too had some "clunking" but I understand that is due to the plates at the top of each strut needing to be replaced. As the dealer said, my struts would have passed inspection and soldiered on--but at 130,000 miles, it was probably time. Yes I notice a difference in ride and handling.
    I disagree about the Charger interior...Pontiac continues to have cheaper looking interiors in my estimation. Happy Holidays and enjoy 2006!
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Just to expand on the suspension issue - my Intrepid had struts, boot kits, tie rod ends, and struts again changed and I still feel a "Clunk" when I hit a bump. My mechanic never seems to hear this (The T&C does the same thing), so I've given up pouring money into this issue. Like I said previously, both Mopars run silent and swift under the hood. I've contented myself that way (for now).

    Try the front sway bar rubber bushings on both cars. I had them replaced (under warranty) on my van and the noise went away.
  • Agree with sway bar and bushings, that has been problematic on my 97 Intrepid, that gave me the "clunk"
  • svdosvdo Posts: 1
    Everytime I try to refuel the nozzle will trip if I try to place fuel into the tank at full open on the nozzle. The only way I can get fuel into the tank is by opening the nozzle at an extremely slow rate. Does anyone know why this could be the reason?
  • fred222fred222 Posts: 200
    Everytime I try to refuel the nozzle will trip if I try to place fuel into the tank at full open on the nozzle. The only way I can get fuel into the tank is by opening the nozzle at an extremely slow rate. Does anyone know why this could be the reason?
    This has to do with the vapor recovery system on the fuel nozzle. I believe that the fuel flow is shut off when high pressure is measured. The problem is that the rubber seal on the nozzle seals too well to the gas tank opening on your car. Try pulling the flexible rubber seal on the nozzle back a little when re fueling. I have had this problem on and off on various vehicles.
  • fred222fred222 Posts: 200
    I have a 1999 Intrepid ES with the mid grade stereo, not the base and not the Infinity. It has a separate power amp which is going out. Does any one know where this amp is physically in the car and how to remove it?
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,142
    not sure, but don't they usually put them somewhere in the trunk? Like on the bulkhead between the trunk and the back seat? Maybe not if you have folding seats, though. But what about mounted underneath the package shelf, between the two rear speakers?

    I'm just taking some stabs in the dark here...
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    On the 99 the power amp is located in the trunk on the passenger side behind the sound deadner upper right.
  • fred222fred222 Posts: 200
    This car has the fold down rear seats. I will take a look though. Thanks.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    It's not behind the seats but on the wheelwell.
  • #2318 of 2956 DrMurdoc... by Jason5 Apr 14, 2004 (4:22 pm)
    > In a nutshell--make your purchase and enjoy. We too in
    > this forum have heard about the "sludge" problem--
    > trouble is the one or two sources are not reliable and
    > you won't find significant real world data to
    > support "sludge" as an issue.

    This statement seems pretty ridiculous. Maybe it's the intervening time, but currently oil sludge complaints outnumber all other 1998-2002 Intrepid complaints by a factor of 15 to 1.

    1999 Dodge Intrepid problems
    2000 Dodge Intrepid problems
    ..etc.

    No other vehicle on our website has graphs as one-sided as the Dodge Intrepid.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Thanks for that interesting site that shows the complaints. I have to agree that there is lopsided complaints about the engines in these cars. It is interesting to see the comments that go with those complaints. It is also reassuring to me that those that site the engine type indicate it was the 2.7 liter that failed. Once again makes me happy I went a little deeper into the wallet and went for the 3.2 in my '99. Now at 105,000 trouble free engine miles. :D
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,142
    I wish I had sprun for a 3.2. Or better yet, the pretty $26,000 Intrepid R/T with the 3.5 that they had on the showroom floor the day I bought my '00 base model.

    But I can't complain. My little 2.7 has around 113,500 miles on it now, and no problems yet...no nasty noises or signals of impending doom, and nothing's fallen off yet. If I can get two more years out of it I'll be happy, but even if the engine does sludge up, oh well it could be worse. At least it's paid for!

    One thing that would REALLY piss me off is to have a car need a major repair WHILE I'm still making payments! I knew a guy with a '94 Ford Probe that had the second tranny go out at 86,000 miles, out of warranty. He couldn't afford to get it fixed, so he just let it sit for about a year and a half until he was finished making payments, then got it fixed.
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    have affected almost all the car makes-VW, Audi, Toyota etc...The website in the earlier post had less than 50 complaints for the engine. ONE for some of the other "issues". Statistically relevant??? Check engine rebuilder sites and you will find no modifications to help prevent this "problem". The 3.2 has been in production for longer than the 2.7 so are easier to find.
    Buy quality oil, change it every 3000 to 5000 miles (depending on your service rating) and DRIVE.
    The total number of such failures against the number of engines built might give a more realistic statistic. I have seen many 98+ models with 150000+ miles,most were 2.7s.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,142
    would the 2.7 be more prone to sludging in the Sebring/Stratus? I know the engine is more crammed-in with those cars, because of the smaller engine compartment. And I heard they also had to cut something, or make some kind of half-baked mod to the engine to make it fit in sideways.

    I remember with the Toyota 3.0 sludging issue, it seems that a disproportionate amount of them popped up in the Sienna minivan, where the engine is supposedly more crammed-in, and doesn't dissipate heat as well. I remember the Camry getting named often too, but when you consider how many Camrys were built, that's not too surprising.
  • I have a 95 Intrepid that has a headlight out. I bought the bulbs (was going to change both now) but cannot figure out how to replace them. Can someone please help me?

    Thank you

    :cry:

    :cry: :cry:
  • I have a 95 Intrepid and My family and I are the first and only owners. At about 130k miles, the car has been great up until about 2 years ago. My father is a mechanic and had kept the car in great shape, but we have been having some problems. About 2 years ago it started with the battery being unable to hold a charge. We replaced the battery and the alternator and it ran fine for a while. Then, about 8 months later while I was driving the check engine light came on, but the car was fine, no over heating. I pulled over and turned the car off, when I turned it back on, it was gone. About a month later all sorts of strange things began to happen, the speedometer began to give in accurate readings (currently while driving it will hit 120 and then the car begins to buck) and once the speedo was so crazy out it was reading the pin was stationed at the mileage. Sometimes the dash lights will go on, and when the speedo is crazy out, the windshield wipers act on there own...
    Does anyone know what is going on or have similar problems? Please help, my sister now uses it while I am in school as a new driver, it just isn't safe anymore. Thanks.
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