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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • eskieseskies Posts: 3
    Does anybody know of a class action law suit against chrysler on the dodge intrepid due to oil pumps failing and taking out the motor. know of two cars that it has happened to in just a short week. one a 98 and one a 2000. the 98 had 91k and the 2000 had 40k. :confuse:
  • cookie7414cookie7414 Posts: 1
    did you get it fixed..i have the same problem..i changed the coil pack and still no spark. Can anyone help on this.
    thanks!
  • 4ducks4ducks Posts: 8
    Did you get this fixed? I had the same problem this past fall and it ended up being found when a friend told me I had no brake lights. It was the brake fuse under the hood! Who would have thought a $3.00 fuse would remedy this problem!! :shades:
  • 4ducks4ducks Posts: 8
    Recently, my Intrepid began blowing on high all the time. It even blows on high when you turn the a/c unit off. Any ideas? Maybe a relay or a resistor? Thanks! :confuse:
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Please don't.

    There is a note above the post box asking that people not post their email addresses and, in fact, we will remove posts which contain them.

    For one thing, there are automated webcrawlers sucking up email addresses for malicious purposes and you don't want to open yourself up to that. For another, we are an online community and, as such, would like the conversations to take place here within the discussion so that it benefits all of our members.

    If you want other community members to have access to your address, all you have to do is make it public in your profile. The webcrawlers can't get to it there.

    Thanks!
  • I have a 1997 dodge intrepid ES that i bought in january and it had 100,050 miles for 2,800. it currently has 101,500 and i havent changed the timing belt yet...does any one know when (like Miles wise)that i should get this changed and where i can find a good cheap one to have my mechanice install???
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,028
    If it's an ES with the 3.5, the interval should be 105,000 miles. Also, the 3.5 is an interference engine, meaning that if the belt fails, your engine is essentially toast, as the pistons will smash the valves into oblivion. The timing belt also drives the waterpump, so I'm guessing it might be a good idea to change that too, while you're in there.

    As for finding a belt, I don't think the belt itself is that expensive. The only name I know is Gates (http://www.gates.com). The labor to put it in is where most of the cost will be, so don't bother trying to save a few bucks on the part itself. And with something this critical, I wouldn't advise skimping, anyway.

    While they're in there, it would be a good idea to replace the crankshaft and camshaft seals, too.
  • georgeogeorgeo Posts: 1
    I am having turn signal problems on my 95 ES 3.5 I have replaced the flasher unit and the turnsignal stalk switch replaced fuse in the door access and under hood still not working I am now slowly inspecting the wiring.Funny thing is the brake lights work. Is there any help out there???? :confuse: Otherwise I like my intrepid.
  • Thanks for your help.... and yes it is a 3.5 and i didnt know all that stuff has to be changed, now i gotta save more money as $300 wont cover all of that lol.... but thanks for your help, rather be safe then sorry.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,028
    but I had a '88 LeBaron, and when we had the timing belt and the camshaft/crankshaft seals replaced on it, the bill was under $300. But that was about 10 years ago, so it would probably be more now. Dang, it's amazing how time flies...seems like it wasn't that long ago! :blush:

    I think the 2.2 was actually designed to be easy to work on, though. IIRC, the same guy who did the Mopar slant six and the smallblock V-8 designed the 2.2.

    Once they're actually in there, the crankshaft and camshaft seals shouldn't add too much to the expense. It's just that it's better to replace them because if they start leaking, oil will get in to where the timing belt is and cause it to deteriorate more quickly.
  • jonp2jonp2 Posts: 1
    My turn signals and flashers stopped working on my 2003 Intrepid. I changed the 10 amp fuse (which looked fine) with no success. Any other ideas?
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hi, everyone!

    A dealer has a 2000 R/T w/the 3.5L engine for $1,995. The catch? It has 208,000 miles. It has no added options. It only has cloth seats, Cassette/CD, standard 17" rims, and the AutoStick.

    Body in nice condition (at least from website photos)

    I was considering this as a second car for a "beater" car.

    What do you all think?

    Thanks!
    - Alex
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    $1995....I would take it out and try it out. If it ran ok and everything important worked it would be a fun car for short money. R/Ts are a great second hand value anyway. Not something to put money in-make sure the tires,front-end etc...are good.
    30 day warranty?
    Probably sell for $1600 or so....bargain.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,028
    basically just make sure everything looks sound, and if possible check the service records. AFAIK, the 3.5 is a good, durable engine, although at that mileage it should be due a timing belt change. And while they're in there, I think it's standard operating procedure to change the water pump, too.

    Also, in 2000 the Intrepid R/T WAS a pretty basic car, as it used the base interior, and not the nicer ES. I think it was 2002 that the R/T became more luxurious, and the SXT was introduced to be the muscular Intrepid for those on a bit of a budget.
  • rirrir Posts: 1
    I also have a 95 Intrepid with the same turn signal trouble and my brake lights also work. I just thought it was the relay since it was buzzing. I purchased a new relay from the dealer and it worked for 4 days, stopped working, started working again right after I hit the hazard button then stopped again for good on the 5th day after I installed the new relay. The same thing happened with the last relay. The switch and fuse in the inside the car have also been checked. Sounds like something is blowing the relays. Any help out there :confuse:
  • Hi all I purchased an immaculate 94 intrepid with 48k original miles on it about six months ago.. this car is near perfect and was owned by a little old woman.. recently it has begun doing this thing where it will die for no reason and take about two or three minutes to start again.. any suggestions as what to check?? The fuses and relays all are clean and look brand new.. could it possibly be the coil pack or the fuel pump or just a loose connection.. thanks...Dave..
  • jmoore9jmoore9 Posts: 3
    Hey everyone.

    Looks like I have the oil sending unit problem I have read so much about -- at least I hope that is all it is.

    When the car gets hot on a hot day the oil light flickers at low RPMs -- it was at 700 RPMs, but now it is at 900-1000 RPMs.

    I have read the posts about the TSB on this problem, but the TSB is from 1999, and I have not seen the year of cars that were having this problem. Is the TSB for all 2.7 L engines, or those built in 1999 and before?

    Thanks for the help!
    Jim
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    Have the oil pressure checked. Even if your model has the improved harness the sending unit could be bad. Not a big $$ repair. About $100 at a dealership. Good luck.
  • jmoore9jmoore9 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the quick reply.

    I went ahead and replaced the sending unit yesterday, but that did not solve the problem. I did not replace the wire though -- I am wondering if that is still applicable to 2002 models.

    Jim
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    Was the oil pressure good? Gotta start there!!!! Do not run the 2.7 with low pressure.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,028
    is a 2000, but it had the oil pressure problem. And the tsb wasn't for the sending unit itself, but for some kind of wiring problem that, when it gets hot, it gives it a false read. I do remember it had something to do with installing a vent so that the area that gets hot can cool better.

    Back when I had the problem, the low pressure light would only come on at 500 rpm.

    When I had this problem it really scared me because I have another car, a 1967 Pontiac Catalina, that used to have the same issue. But this car has an aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed, so when I saw the oil light flicker, the gauge itself verified it! And it would only do it when it was fully warmed up and the oil thinned out, and at low-rpm situations such as idling at a traffic light. In this case it was a simple fix; just put in a heavier oil and bump up the idle a bit. I think Pontiacs back then were known for idling slowly, but I think this one had been played with over the years, and was actually idling TOO slow. I guess it's a miracle it didn't stall out!

    And nowadays, I guess it's NOT a good idea to just put in a heavier-weight oil!
  • khfordkhford Posts: 1
    I noticed yesterday when I was driving home that my left turn signal wouldn't work with my headlights on. The turn signal just stayed on, and didn't blink. My right turn signal worked just fine. I got out and checked to see if I had a bulb out, and they were all fine. I shut off my headlights and the left turn signal started working again. Turn the lights on, it quits working. After I turned off my car and ran my errands, I came back out and it hasn't given me a moments problem. Do I have a bulb about to die, am I about to lose a fuse, is the turn signal flasher going out? Any suggestions? :confuse:
  • So does anyone have any sugesstions??????Dave..
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,028
    Sorry, but my expertise with electrical/electronic crap like that is negligible. I have an '85 Silverado that used to do something like that, and it turned out to be the ECU in the distributor getting overheated. It would sometimes take an hour or more to cool down though. And, well, Intrepids don't have distributors. Wait...did the first-generation models still use a distributor?
  • No it just has the spark box where the plug wires plug into...
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,018
    Sorry to hear about your troubles. You might try posting in Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • magneticomagnetico Posts: 1
    i just bought a 2001 intrepid with a 2.7 engine and i had the same oil light problem but i had the engine flush twice inside so it clean up all the sludge and i put in a 5/20 syntetic oil and is been a week everything seems ok no more oil flicking at idle and the engine runs smooth.hope it helps what i did,bye Tony.
  • homerkchomerkc Posts: 113
    I had the flickering oil light 30 mos ago (@ 70K miles). Upon investigating, I learned of the 2.7 enging sludging problem. My car has seen mostly highway miles, AND frequent oil changes, so I didn't think sludge was the problem. I paid the DEALER to look - no sludge, but a new sending unit later, the flickering light was gone. I was advised to use synthetic oil, though, and now at 100K miles, my car (a 2000 bought new) still runs great and gives me 25mpg and a lot of driving pleasure. I planned to replace it this spring but couldn't find anything i liked, so I'll to drive it for another year or so. A friend (a DC employee) says the engine works too hard in a car this size (causing sludging in some cars.) He suggest frequent oil changes - 3K miles SHARP. I will keep using synthetic, though, as it is chemically impossible to turn to sludge at operating temps.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,028
    the first thing the dealer did was talk me into doing that oil flush thing, and they also replaced some part. I think it was the sending unit, but I can't remember for sure. Anyway, it didn't help, and once the car had been driven far enough to fully warm up, the light came back on. The guys at the dealer just never drove it far enough in their test drive.

    It wasn't until they did the TSB for the wiring and the vent that the flicker finally went away.

    As for mileage, I'm up to around 118,000 miles not, and haven't been all that religious about changing the oil. Originally I tried to stick with 3,000 mile intervals, but I got a bit lazy. I rarely let it go more than 4,000 miles, though.

    I've thought about getting a new car from time to time, but I really couldn't find anything I really liked, either. At least, not for the price. I kinda like the Altima and Charger. I also like the Buick Lucerne, even though I don't have enough gray hair yet. :P

    It's probably kinda silly to go out and get the same basic car, but I've thought about trying to find a low-mileage '03-04 Intrepid with the 3.5 and a sunroof. I'll probably just keep my '00 though, until something really major/expensive breaks on it.
  • phardyphardy Posts: 12
    Hello,

    I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with about 110k miles on it. I brought it into my local dealership over 2 months ago because of overheating. After a week in the shop, a service rep told me that during the process of trying to fix my car, they destroyed the engine and they are going to fix the car for free.

    Now check this out. The last time I had an engine replaced (in a different car) it only took 2 weeks to get my car back -- and the car was fixed in "Grandpa's Automechanic Shop". This car, my 2K Intrepid is at a Chrysler/Dodge dealer. I brought it in 2 months ago anf they're still giving me excuses why the car is not ready.

    Folks, I suspect fraud or something else has happened to the car and they are not telling me the truth. What would you recommend?
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