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Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier

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Comments

  • finfin atlantaPosts: 588
    It is "something else" as torque steer occurs on hard acceleration, not normal highway crusing.

    Basic Ideas: Start by making sure the tires match and are properly balanced. Check to see if they are round. Check the air pressure. Spin the tires by hand and see if the front brake pads still pinch the rotor when fully released (they should not). Get an alignment.

    When you get to this point, having done all the above, you will have either fixed the problem or know what else needs to be done. Might be the steering needs some new parts. The alignment shop can tell you. Several possibilities here. Hope this helps, others will have additional ideas....
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    why dont you just buy a unit (maybe about 100-150$ ) and install it. for that price you can also get MP3 capabilities. Most of the decks are plug and play.

    since you have the XL you probably dont have a amp in there. i have a 96 xls and the installation took a while as they had to bypass the amp or something.
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Thanks,the guage did not act up again.
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Driver`s side low beam socket burnt out a few months ago and I changed it and the same thing has happened again.I cannot remember if it is the negative or positive is burning out.It was not lighting last night so I checked it and found that it it was black and charred.I cleaned the socket and it lighted,I think that it is only time before there is a fire.This started to happen eights months after I got the car. :( :( :(

    QUESTION:Can I use H I D bulb without have to change wires?
  • dave_bdave_b Posts: 8
    Anyone (abfisch maybe??) have any experience replacing the fuel filter?
    Interested in:
    1) Where is it located
    2) Approximate cost I should expect to pay
    3) At what mileage should I have this done
    Thanks!
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    I have a 96 XLS and the headlight washer on the drivers side doesnt work. The other side works. I can see windshield washer dripping from the drivers side which means it might be getting to the nozzle bit not out.

    Anyidea how i can remove this part and take a look. doesnt appear to have any screws looking from top.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Yes......Very painful. It is located I believe on the passenger side of the engine bay. It is under pressure. You have to access it from below I believe and you will get gas in alot of places you don't want. Nevertheless, if you have the time, it is in the service manual, although I don't remember it being in the scheduled maintenace algorithm. Ofcourse, Toyota saws you don't have to ever do it. Then, why is there a filter in the first place???

    I did not want to do this. I bought 6 filters, at a discount and have them replace at 60K or so, whenever I have to have something else done. I believe you are suppose to disconnect the negative terminal to the battery, but did you think they did that at the local Toyota dealership here. No.....

    abfisch
  • kpraveenkpraveen Posts: 22
    Thanks for your reply. What is this amp. Is it easy to install CD player if there is no amp in my car. how about if i buy some thing cd to cassette converter, will it be less expenssive than single cd player unit.
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 588
    Here is some edited copy from a parts house website. I was looking for something else and found it. *abfisch* has it right:

    On cars with fuel injection, most manufacturers only recommend replacing the filter after the first 100,000 mile. However, most Toyota service professionals believe its best to replace the fuel filter every two years or 24,000 miles. A contaminated Toyota filter will put undue pressure on the electric fuel pump, eventually wearing out the pump prematurely, or worse let contaminates get to the Toyota fuel injectors. Spending a few extra dollars every few years will save you hundreds in future repair costs. Toyota fuel filter replacement is fairly easy and is something you can do yourself! But be careful as on fuel-injected cars, the fuel system remains under pressure even with the car off!

    To me it sounds a little more difficult then this paragraph implies. Good luck...... :)
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    the amp is something that amplifies your signal. Apparently some Avalons have a Woofer as well and have an amp behind the audio unit.

    Best thing in your case would be to pull out the radio and insert a newer CD unit (unless youi listen to tapes )
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    To all the people who are not happy with their Toyota,please do not beat up on your selves for buying the brand.Honda is having problems too,as a matter of fact,they are horror stories.One guy has a 2003 Accord EX V6 which is on tranny #3,Odessy is having horror stories too.The reason we are seeing so many complaints here is because this is supposed to be a TOYOTA FORUM.A few wayward post do get past the keeper.You have all right to be upset if a screw is out of joint on your brand new or new used car, because once you put your "John Hancock" on the dotted lines, you are stuck.It is not like a stero set that you can take back to the shop if you do not like the sound it produces.I am just a happy camper who is putting in his two cents.You can check out some of the horror stories on @utoFan.com

    Thanks for reading.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Which brings up a very good point. It is not the fact that these companies a putting in defective parts. That's is not really the main issue. The main issue, IMO, is the way they handle the complaint afterwards and there is lies a big difference. This is both at the local level and the corporate level.

    Compare Toyota and Honda, both reputable brands that have enlarged to the Subaru site. Or perhaps a Korean brand. Every model has there share of defective parts or engineering, but the way it is handled makes all the difference in customer loyalty and happiness.

    Although I enjoy my Avalon 02 with 80K, and plan to keep it to 250K, I would have a very hard time buying another Toyota if there was a comparbly equipped and serviceable vehicle for the same price.

    abfisch
  • alan_salan_s Posts: 356
    I agree wholeheartedly. Toyota fight all the way when it comes to fixing a problem, even if it is a known issue. If Toyota just fixed the problem instead of treating their customers like the enemy, we would all be much more loyal customers.
    This is a major reason why I have started our move away from Toyota, by replacing our Sienna with a Honda Pilot. So far the Honda service and attitude we have experienced is way, way better than Toyota's.
    When I replace my Avalon I won't be buying another Toyota.
    They have lost me after 25 years as a loyal customer, and frankly they don't give a !@#$%^.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Wow, I feel the same way. Very interesting. Bought a slightly used BMW, and besides my tickering for maintenance, I have the priviledge (shouldn't be) of a very very well trained light wheel vehicle mechanic who is with me in the Army. So. no bull.

    Probably only one more vehicle for the family in my lifetime. Perhaps by that time, fuel will be differently priced or available. But Not only is Toyota losing a one time customer, but to lose you after 25 years, says alot about how corporations change.

    Appreciate your response.

    abfisch
  • I love the car, but I think it's time to take up some slack in the parking brake cables. I cannot find information about this! Is it a secret? I may have to pay 85 bucks for the official Toyota service manual. This not rocket science. Must I go to the dealership? Heaven forbid! That's 100 bucks an hour! Thanks. Jim Hinkson.

    PS I know what to do under a car. I have the floor jack, jack stands, and the tools. I just don't enjoy doing that stuff any more unless I have to. I'm also a cheap skate
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    I recently changed my brakes and notice someting odd.On the inner back brackes,I notice that the pads were half worn and yet they destroyed the rotors.The piston on the driver`s side caliper gave me hell to push back.I had to do it about three times before it was ok,the passenger side was a breeze.I suspected the calipers are sticking.I am having nightmares(about the price) about having to change all four calipers.Am I right about the diagnosis?.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Yes. You are right. If the calipers and slide bolts are cleaned and greased, you probably will not need new calipers although it sounds like you need new pads and rotors. You gotta get all the rust off the moving parts for brakes. That is the only way they will work correctly.

    abfisch
  • kpraveenkpraveen Posts: 22
    Hi Guys,

    Is Fuel injector is really helpful as it is advertised by the sellers. My car has 148k, can you please suggest me
    do i have to really mix fuel injector when I fill up the gas if have not done it before.

    Thank you.
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 588
    kpraveen: Most fuel injector cleaner is essentially a highly volatile (explosive vapors) petroleum product. It burns extremely hot, so YES, mix it with gasoline in the tank per the directions. It will remove some, possibly not all, of the junk that clogs fuel injectors.

    There is no real substitute for removing the injectors and fuel lines and doing a professional cleaning at 148k miles. But if you have minor problems it can certainly help. Some people add the stuff regularly to the fuel anyway. But don't do it too often. Hope this helps...
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    No. Don't do that. PURE HID bulbs needs ballasts as they are 35W. They are not applicable for halogen lights. You need to have the care serviced by a competent electrical technician.

    abfisch
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Thanks abfisch.I did get new rotors and new pads and now the brakes are squealing like a stuck pig.Whenever I visit my brother,he can tell it is me without seeing me.
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Thanks for your suggestions.I went to a car chatroom and explain the problem.Someone told me the light has a grounding problem,I located the ground but I have to disconnect the battery in order to do a ground test.I am waiting for the temperature to be in the 70s.I have to remove the battery and part of the air filter housing.Oh,the main reason I cannot do it now is because I do not have the code to reset the radio.I have to call a company on the web in order to get it.Yes,it will cost me,$35 bucks.

    QUESTION:Can I make a ground from the negative wire that is feeding the bulb? An auto electrician is going to charge me an arm,a leg and he will try to take my head too.
  • kpraveenkpraveen Posts: 22
    Fin,

    Thank you very much for your reply. It is really helpful to me.
  • rob774rob774 Posts: 4
    Okay, i want an extra key for my Avalon. Only thing is i assume Toyota would make me take out a small house loan for it. So i saw a un-cut key with a chip inside already. This seems to be a reputable seller, he had great reviews, so my question is, what's the chance of this not working. All i would have to do is get it cut to my original key. Opinions?
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Once the key is cut to the original it should work,remember you also have to programme the new key.I bought two uncut keys for a total of $77 and had them cut at Home Depot.I programme the last one this morning and they are both starting the car.Programming instructions
    came with the keys.You will have to have a master key to do
    the programming yourself.Here is what you do to find out if you have a master key:Insert your existing key into the ignition,if the little red light on your dashboard goes off immideatly you have a master key.If it goes off after a few seconds,your key is not a master key and you will not be able to programme it yourself.The same guy that you mentioned will have to programme it for you or you will have to go the the dealer.What year is your Avalon? Mine is 98 XLS
  • rob774rob774 Posts: 4
    Mine is a 2001. Thanks for your advise thus far.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    They should not squeal if done correctly. Did you camfer the front edge of the pad??? Anti squeal lub. on the back of the pads??? Shouldn't do that. Did you bed in the pads???

    abfisch
  • kpraveenkpraveen Posts: 22
    Hi Guys,

    Please advice/suggest me, I bought a used AVALON 95 with 150K miles. I have a question that Can I drive this car on a long drive like 700miles in a day non-stop, in this summer. Kindly advice me. Please suggest what do i need to inspect before i go for a long drive and what should i need to take care of.

    Thanks to all of you.
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    I do not think that the reset code for the radio is unique to individual radio but a group of radios.Here is why:I was going through the motion of buying the code, they did not ask for Vehicle Identification Number.All they ask for is,vehicle make,model,year and radio model number.The radio model number is very important.My radio model number is AD6801 it means that all the radios with that number can be reset using the same code.That is my reasoning,does anyone agree with me?
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 588
    First... If you go 700 miles non-stop... you will average about 40 mpg. Tell the forum immediately how you did it. This will be a first for any Avalon. :)

    Second... If it doesn't leak anything, overheat or otherwise fail in a 1 hour test drive on the local interstate in your area, go for it. Not anybody's first choice maybe, with all those miles, but these cars can go 200k or more if you take care of them. My '99 XL was perfect at 92k, ran like new. Check all fluids and hoses after a test drive. Then go if it looks ok. Don't forget the tires, check air pressure and tread depth for safety. Note: Your question is in the wrong forum. The HOST will move it.
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