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Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier



  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hey guys, please do not post your email address. If you want someone (a registered, logged-in member) to be able to see it, just make it public in your profile. Thanks.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    I have been using Sythetic in my ATF for the last two changes. I have 78K on an 02 also. I tow a trailer quite a bit. No negative effects with either to date. I do have a good habit of backing off on the accelerator just before upshifts, which deloads the tranny. Change the ATF and filter every 30K, as again, I use a utility traier for our property quite a bit.

  • goat2goat2 Posts: 1
  • My 96 Avalon LX has just reached 149,000. Has all the bells and whistles (sunroof, leather, gold trim) and it still looks GREAT. No major repairs (just routine maintenance and 2 CV joints) until now. But, I think 145000 was the magic number. Both front struts have collapsed in the last 6 weeks; then heard a small whine from the power steering pump a few days ago. It's in the shop now and needs steering rack replaced along with the struts. It has the original timing belt (the only receommended service item not performed). My dilemma is this - how much more time is reasonably left on the AC, heater coil, transmission, exhaust system? My current needed repairs along with a timing belt will be close to $3000. If another major component goes in the next 6-8 months I will have atleast $4000 invested in a 10 year old car. I would like to get another 50,000 miles out of it (or 1 more year). I would appreciate any and all opinions!
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 588
    Here are some things to consider:

    1. The car is 10 years old. Age will cause things to fail as much as mileage. Parts rust, corrode, rot, crack, etc., at this point. Look around for signs of age....

    2. Avalons are capable of 200k miles if properly maintained. If you have done everything right from the beginning, that's a good start to 200k.

    3. Suspension parts are reasonable failures at this point in the car's life. So is anything else failing except the engine and transmission.

    4. Do you drive in snow? Canada? Road chemicals? Lots of dust in the desert in the western U.S.? Florida sand? These extremes can shorten the life of anything if you do it all the time.

    5. Ever change the belts and hoses you can see? The timing belt is l-o-n-g overdue. This is a major problem if it fails.

    6. For maybe $12k and this car you can move up to a much younger car. What is your budget? If you have it, this might be a time to trade up. If not... just do what is necessary.

    No one can predict the future. Other forum members may have more ideas...... My '99 XL was perfect thru 92k miles and 4 years. Probably would have gone 200k easily on the engine and transmission. Other parts, who knows. Hope this helps....
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Does anyone have the programming instructions for 98 Avalon XLS?
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    I was doing about 35 miles on a flat road one day and I suddenly realised that the engine is reving,but I am loosing speed.I pulled over, put the car in park, then drive and continue on my way.Two minutes later I checked the tranny fluid and it was ok.I would like to know if my tranny is dying.The engine is operating just fine and the car is operating just fine,no complain.I am loosing sleep over the tranny. :( :(
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    It is programming instructions for a key.I do have the master key. :)
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    The car has 106K ON it.
  • 54gradsteds54gradsteds Posts: 102
    Re: message # 3172: (programming for a remote key for a 2000 Avalon). Does this Rube Goldberg procedure actually work? Does the same procedure work for a '95 Avalon? My dealer wants about a hundred bucks PER REMOTE to fix mine. BOTH of my remotes stopped working at the same time, yet the dealer insists that I need two new units. Sounds pretty fishy to me! Is there someone out there with a '95 who has a REAL fix for this?
  • I searched E-bay for 2002 avalon remote transmitter, and 2002 avalon ignition key. I bought a key with chip for $8, and a new remote (with same numbers on back as my original unit) for $59, and a second used one for $14. When I saw the programming instructions, I thought I had been had! Really crazy - however programmed both the key and the car for the new transmitter without a hitch! I had the new blank key with chip cut at HOME DEPOT for nothing. The car allows up to 4 programmed transmitters. Not sure about your 95 avalon - probably similar. Dealer wanted almost $180 for this work!!!!!!
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Depends. Too many variables. If you like the car and it serves your needs, then I think it is worth it. Although wihtout changing your timing belt, doing the struts at 150K, never changing the power steering fluid, and probably not changing the tranny fluid alot, you do not sound like the kind of person that likes car maintenance. Nothing personnel but if you need the car and do not want it in the shop and it is your only car, that might be a consideration. Nevertheless, 4K for 50K miles equates to 16K for 2000K miles. Cannot get a that size car for 16K so still worth it.

  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    It seems like most people here are crying about shocks on their Avalon,so do I.It is approaching 1 year (April 11)since I bought my 98 XLS for 8200 with 87k on it and I love it very much(I think 98/99 is the best looking Avalon).Everytime I run over a bump there is a rattling sound comming from the left rear of the car.I checked it out myself and found that it the bushing that is bad.Seeing that It is a hassle to change,I want to make one thing and change the entire shocks.Does anyone have any suggestions on shocks?I work on my car myself,I only go to the mechanic when the job is too big for me or in the winter time.I changed my trannt oil myself on 3/10,it was a breeze. :) :) Oh,I want shocks that are not too hard and I plan on keeping the car for a very looooong time.
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 588
    Forum member *abfisch* has abundant knowledge on this model Avalon as to suspension repairs and replacement parts. His posts here discuss many modified and improved parts. Likely he will help you out when he reads your post. Keep checking....
  • founda98founda98 Posts: 11
    Programming instructions for 1998 Toyota Avalon Remote with the following ID.

    FCC ID: HYQ 1512 Y
    CAN: 1551 102 578
    RSS - 210

    1. Open driver's door.

    2. Insert and remove key from ignition.

    3. Cycle power door locks Lock - UnLock 5 times.

    4. Close the door and open it again.

    5. Cycle door locks 5 times again.

    6. Insert the key and turn it to ON - OFF - ON - OFF and remove.

    You will hear the locks cycle.

    7. After that, press BOTH Lock and Unlock buttons of the remote together
    at the same time, then push the one button with the bump on it. (Lock)

    If the door locks cycle ONCE, you're done.

    If they cycle twice, it didn't take..... Just push the buttons (Step 7) again.

    If you wait too long between steps you'll have to start over again.


    If you are ADDING a second remote you must repeat Step 7 on the other remote right after the first remote is done so they both obtain the same code.
  • founda98founda98 Posts: 11
    Just purchased a 2003 XL and the low and high beams don't illuminate far enough down the road. Does anyone have the procedure to aim them or know where the aiming adjustment is located?

    Also - does anyone have experience installing 9005 (65 watt highbeam bulb) in lowbeam socket (9006)?

    Many thanks in advance....
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Thanks for your input.
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    I do not have the code to reactivate my radio and I have to disconect my battery in the near future.I would like to know if another Avalon code can work on my car.If it can work,can someone please provide me with the code and instructions on how to reprogramme the radio? 98 XLS.Love my baby :D :) :D :) :D
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 588
    Bad news: The codes are unique to a car.. the code from my car or from some other Avalon will not help you. Go to a local dealer with the car and use the vehicle serial number to research the code. It's available that way. Others may have a different idea..... hope this helps.

    If you are just replacing the battery.. hook up another one before disconnect and keep the system powered as you put in the replacement. The dealers do this when they replace batteries. You need to be careful, but it works.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    I apologize for not proofreading my last post. I sounded stupid.

    Now, Oh...yes, your Avalon probably could use at 87K new bushings and shocks. What I would do, and what I did do was on a 02 Avalon XL, as I felt the suspension was inadequate for my needs, not anyone elses. I am not a bells and whistles person, and that is why I bought the XL.

    The struts/shocks/dampers need replacement for the front and rears. My experience is with the Tokico HP brand, which is a twin-tube design low pressure gas shock. KYB GR2 I have heard very good reports about too, but I have the former on my Avalon. It is not too harsh and improves the car, IMO, very much, but not to a point that it does not feel like a luxury crusier. You will have to get a 4 wheel alignment too, so figure that into the price. You should also replace the top shock mounts and bump stops, which you can get from Toyota as long as you are taking things apart.

    If you want to go further into things, then a company called Energy Suspension, has PU(polyurethane graphite impregnated bushings) for the front and rear control arms and for the front and rear sway bars. These coupled with the shocks will transform your car into something close to a car that handles much better than it looks. It will put a smile on your face at the same time as the car will not lean or bow on hard braking anymore.

    Caveat: Changing the bushings has a couple of small drawbacks you should know about. First, the shocks make more of a difference and they are more expensive to replace than the bushings. Second, replacing the bushings with PU type bushings, specially made for your year and model, will transmit more harshness, not so much vibration through the chassis. You will fill it to some extent. I don't mind it as it is worth the trade off however minor but so do. The car comes with rubber bushings and you could just replace those with new ones too. Although, you will get more flex, and thus will not get as good as handling effects as with PU bushings. Thirdly, PU bushings after awhile tend to squeak a little. Using generous amounts of marine grease tends to allay this but about every two years, I wind up taking the brackets off and regreasing the sway bars bushings. Not hard to do, like chassis greasing should be done, but nevertheless more maintenance than a rubber bushing.

    The sway bar bushing you can put on yourself but the control arm bushing you will need a press to get out the old ones. Better let someone who does it on a daily basis do that unless you have the correct tools.

    hop[e this helps.

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