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Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier



  • tjc78tjc78 JerseyPosts: 5,025
    The 2GR engine in '05+ Avalons doesn't have a belt, they went to a chain.

    1999 Chevy S10 / 2004 Merc Grand Marquis / 2012 Buick LaCrosse

  • pau03pau03 Posts: 14

    I'm thinking about buying an Avalon during the years the sludge issue occured (2000 - 2003). I was wondering how much of a chore it is to pull the valve covers? I won't buy one unless I can see what's under them. But this may be asking too much of the seller, especially if it's a private individual. Anyone ever done this before?

  • burlburl Posts: 40
    This Question got lost a while back

    I know that everyone seem's to change their timing belt at about 100;000 miles

    Has anyone pushed this a long way or ever PERSONALLY have a belt breack ????????

    Their used too be a cover on some where you could check wear without having to take it almost apart to check it even ??

    Also please: Is there any reason that the heavier LamuiATED WINDSHIELD IN THE LIMITEDS would not fit in a XLS ??????
    Thank's for your time
  • jimmy2xjimmy2x Posts: 124
    Depending on whether the belt is interference or non-interference (I am not sure which it is), you could virtually ruin your engine. Certainly not a chance worth taking IMO.
  • cking35cking35 Posts: 3
    i haven't removed my valve covers yet but plan on doing it before the 8 year warranty is up. I have a 2000 Avalon, 68000 miles.
  • cking35cking35 Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Avalon, the manual states the timing belt should be changed at 90000 miles or 72 months. I decided to change the timing belt my-self, could not get the crankcase pulley bolt loose (159 ft lb torque), I purchased the special tools required. The old belt looked good, no visible cracks. I did change the water pump, pulleys and belt tensioiner also front crankcase oil seal. I don't believe the timing belt could be inspected unless it's removed.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    I had upgraded to the red Energy performance bushings. abfisch says he relubes his - I don't remember the color he used, but I ordered red for my AV. Now I'm doing my 79 Olds Cutlass, and I just found that the black is lubricated. Maybe I'll use them this time.

    "What is the difference between the
    Energy Suspension ® red and black polyurethane components?
    Answer: Both are our Energy's HYPER-FLEX™ performance polyurethane formulations. Energy has impregnated selected black polyurethane components with graphite–to add a lubrication property. Additionally, both Energy Suspension ® red and black polyurethane components are engineered differently than OEM rubber components–to be free a floating and non-binding design. This allows for the additional durometer (firmness) of the components, which adds to the performance improvement of the vehicle overall."">link title
  • Apparently it is a rare occurrence, but the rear wheel bearing on our 2003 started to drone and had to be replaced. These things are expensive, about $300 at the dealer and about $100 aftermarket.

    One benefit, however, is that the brake pulsation has gone. Obviously the bearing has been faulty for a year or so, because that's how long I have had the pulsation.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    My right rear started growling on the way back from AZ, but hasn't gotten much worse. I'll look at it when the weather cools. This shouldn't happen at 55k miles.
  • The clock suddenly went blank. Not being able to locate my owners manual for fuse location, I checked other systems in the car--dome light, radio, cigarette lighter, etc and everything seems to work fine. I pulled the cover off the fuse compartment on the left side of the driver as well as the covers from the two fuse compartments under the hood and failed to see "clock" on any of the fuse location diagrams.

    Can someone advise which fuse covers the clock?
    Can someone offer suggestions to the clock issue if all fuses are good?
    Does someone have the manual that they can email to me?
    Thanks in advance
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591

    I used the black ones. Every now and again, they seem to need a relub. Too bad the brackets don't have a grease fittings, sway bars I am talking about. Would be interested to here how the 79 Olds comes out. It really does improve the vehicles handling although you have to be careful as how much vibration you want to let into the cabin.

  • I recently purchased my first Toyota, a 2000 Avalon XLS. I have several interior issues that I'd like to correct.

    1. The plastic latch on the center console is worn/damaged and will not stay latched. The plastic latch appears to be easy to replace, but dealer does not stock the $2 part and wants to sell the $80 console. Any suggestions?

    2. The electronic mirror's dimming feature does not appear to be working. Any suggestions?
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    You might searching for used parts online. I found a color matched mirror for my daughters Camry that way.
  • On my 2002 AVALON - I opted to have my timing belt changed by a shop rather than do it myself. Had new cam shaft seals installed, and new water pump. Cost about $580. This engine is non-inteference type. While book says change at 90k, the shop I used said he has rarely seen one break before 150k. For piece of mind - I had mine changed at 118k. I inspected old belt - no sign of wear, TOYOTA label on back of belt still readible even after running over idler all these miles. Belt may have been a little more brittle, but no cracks were evident. AMAZING!!!!
    Also I changed my spark plugs at 124 k miles - book says 120k. They were as clean as a whistle and probably would have worked for a lot longer. However I was glad I did it as two were a little testy getting loose. Wouldn't you know - they were in the back and leaverage was the problem.
  • Two of the cruise control buttons on my 2000 Avalon are going bad. They actually still work but the tactile detents are weak to nonexistent. I want to replace the whole assembly.
    Does anyone know how to do this? There is a cover plate on the reverse side of the buttons but prying with a screw driver did not release it. I’m afraid to pry too hard. It might break.
  • jimajima Posts: 2
    Getting ready to place order for KYB struts, but had a question regarding the mounts. Seems you can just buy the strut bearing or the complete strut mount? Which one should I buy?

    BTW, my 2000 avalon is on the org. struts w/ approx 136000 (purchase car w/85000 on it) - I'm ready to drive instead of navigating the car down the road :)

    any other tips before I purchase struts would be must appreciated.
    ps. also plan to replace the front/rear bushings (rubber vice poly - wifes car)

  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    Has anyone replaced one of these? I have a growl, and I think it's the left rear bearing. Turn to the right to put more weight on it and it worsens. To the left, it lessens. MY QUESTION: Is it an easy do-it-yourself change, or is it a pressed assembly replacement that is more involved? Anyone have a service manual? I have an 03 Avalon.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    I have replaced my struts and bushings at about 50k miles on my wifes 03 Avalon. Not that I needed to, but I wanted a firmer more controlled ride, and I like to experiment to see what I can accomplish. My take offs are available for sale at a reasonable price if anyone needs them. Search on 55396 for earlier posts. I still haven't installed the rear bushings yet as I seem to have an odd sized rear sway bar - 17mm, and I had to buy 16mm bushings that need to be honed out. Measure yours before ordering.

    Today I took my wifes car. It has been awhile since installing struts and bushings. I went down a hill where the road narrowed to cross an old small bridge, then up the hill again. The car hardly flinched, much as a BMW would take it. Very controlled. And, as I was coming across a 4 lane street where the slabs of concrete had shifted due to truck traffic, it was also well controlled. But, I noticed the headlights on the car a ways behind me were really affected, bobbing loosely up and down. I would have guessed it was a large Buick, so I slowed up to see. Unfortunately, it turned off, but I could see that it was a mid sized car. Now, we drive in a more sporting manner at times, but most of the tome it's just normal driving and trips to Arizona fully loaded, where the control is really appreciated. After break in, I would say that this set up is just about ideal.. You can corner as hard as you like, and it stays flat and controlled. I love it, and my wife feels it is ideal too.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    "Would be interested to here how the 79 Olds comes out."

    Well, I replaced the shocks at about the same time as the bushongs. Way back when they first downsized the Monte Carlo, I test drove one and didn't like what they did with the suspension. Same for the Olds. It just doesn't seem right. Anyway, the shocks were shot, so I replaced them with cheap $9.99 HD gas shocks. Small shaft, but they seem to work OK. Maybe not so good on extended hard use, and maybe won't last too long, but I won't drive it much, so they serve the purpose. Front sway bushings and shocks firmed it right up, but I still notice the character of the design, which is to be expected. Now, she just had cheap tires on standard wheels, which may be part of the problem. Also, this car has no rear sway bar, so I will be looking for 442 bars for front and rear. I expect this to make the big difference. Time will tell.
  • Mine went at 53K, and I had it fixed at the dealer. I don't believe there is any special feature of these bearings, but dealer price is an amazing $300 + labor. The same bearing is available for about $100 in the aftermarket - still expensive, but much cheaper than at the dealer.
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