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Nissan Sentra 2006 and earlier

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  • 2000 Nissan Sentra Owner's Manual, Page 5-16:
    BREAK-IN SCHEDULE
    "During the first 1000 miles...Do not drive over 55 MPH and do not run the engine over 4000 rpm."
  • rberusrberus Posts: 25
    Really? I didn't remember seeing that?

    Strange that (on my auto) 55MPH is ~ 2500 RPM.

    I did once go over 4000 rpm. Cruising down the freeway at 65mph when g/f decides to see what all the different buttons do - "what's this little button on the shifter do?". I almost had a heart attack.
  • That's hillarious, but I feel for you. What would we do without our sweeties!:) My manual said not to go over 4000 RPM's and not to exceed the speed limit. I wonder if on the 01's they dropped the 55mph limit realizing that I am only doing 2800 - 3000 RPM at 70 MPH

    If there really is a 55MPH restriction please let me know, although I almost have my 1000 miles so it's too late.
  • dmv71dmv71 Posts: 6
    I bought the 2000 automatic Nissan GXE with convenience package, keyless entry, and mats for the total price of $12,955 or $13,000 (don't have the figure in front of me)out the door. Before taxes and licesne, the price was $ 11, 777. I got the 3.9% financing. I bought it in San Bernardino, California. The dealership I got my car from is called Metro Nissan. It's a huge Nissan dealership that sells in volume. Anyway, it was in the add, and they had 5 to sell this past Thanksgiving weekend. The weekend before that they had 4 to sell, but I missed the opportunity to buy it then. I am sure next weekend they will have some more to sell. Can someone tell me if the cost of additional 4 years or 64,000 miles for $525 is a good price for an extended warranty? Also, does anyone have or hear the rattling noise like a static sound from a bad radio reception coming from the front or rear passenger's side of the car? I hear it when I drive on a bad road at 55 miles and up. Thanks for any input on the cost of the extended warranty and the rattling noise.
  • I don't really know the logic behind the 55 MPH restriction, but I followed it nonetheless. My 1999 Harley Low Rider also had the same restriction. Imagine how I felt driving that beast home on the freeway from the dealer! Every car and bike on the freeway was blowing by me like I was standing still. I still get embarrassed just thinking about it!
  • I believe that the break in period is so that different parts in the engine(such as gaskets, etc) can settle well. It makes sure there are no gaps in the gaskets and therefore no engine leaking in the future.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    thanks.

    sounds like a really good deal. enjoy.
  • Hi everyone, I just bought a 2001 Sentra SE. I am really happy with the car, shopped between the '01 Civic EX, but Sentra was more worth the money and sportier as well. What I thought was frustrating was that I could not get the car with ABS/side air bags! I would have had to wait too long otherwise, so i ended up getting a demo with 1500 miles with everything except abs/side airbags. I also got the extended 7yr 100K bumper to bumper warranty extra. Great car.
  • I Just rechecked my manual. It appears they have deleted the 55 MPH restriction in the 2001 manual. On 5-16 it says "Do not drive over the legal speed limit and Do not run the engine over 4000 rpm." The break in period is extremely important for proper seating of all engine parts. It helps engine life, provides better mileage and power and probably more things. I just didn't know why the 55mph limit was there, and it appears they have deleted that restriction.
  • dmv71dmv71 Posts: 6
    How much did you pay for the 7yr/100000 extended warranty? Why was your reason for getting it? Just curious. Thanks!!!
  • Yeah in the owner manual of my 2001 SE they certainly do not have the 55 mph limit. As far as the rpm goes it is not too difficult to stay within the range of 4000 rpm. You just need to make sure that you do not accelerate too fast, for example checking the pickup at a traffic light after the red turns green!


    To be on the safer side I am also trying to keep the car under 55 mph too, though I occassionally do exceed that limit by 4 to 5 mph.
  • fpm2fpm2 Posts: 13
    Adhering to a 55 mph speed limit during break-in doesn't make sense to me logically. Speed is a function of your tire's rotational speed, not your engine speed? Your transmission gearing along with the engine rpm is what is determining your speed. To tell you the truth, I don't think there is a real "magic" number to follow. Just don't beat the hell out of your car when you first get it, and you'll be all right.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Look at your tachometer when you are going 55 mph compared to 60 or 70. The engine is still turning faster when you drive at higher speeds, albeit not close to the 4000 rpm or close to redline. But maybe there is some logic behind it.
  • fpm2fpm2 Posts: 13
    there is no difference in engine speed from driving 25 mph in 2nd gear (3000 rpm) and driving 70 mph in 5th gear (3000 rpm). Your engine works no harder in either case. The gearing of your transmission is what is giving you the ability to drive 70 instead of 30 at 3000 rpm of the engine.
  • That clarifies some lingering issues. Just to go a step further I wanted to ask what the purpose of high engine rpms is. According to me it is for:

    1. Very high accelerations.
    2. Or for climbing steep slopes.

    Is there anyone who could throw more light on the same?
  • fpm2fpm2 Posts: 13
    No two engines are alike. Many characteristics of an engine such as size, the piston's bore size as opposed to it's stroke, compression ratios, # of valves per cylinder, cam profiles, weight of it's mechanical parts, etc. can affect an engine's power curve (it's torque curve across it's engine rpm range). Remember, horsepower is only a function of the torque of the engine at a given rpm. HP=Torque x(rpm/5252). Some engines produce more torque than other's at low rpm, but run out of steam at higher rpm's. That's why you will see smaller engines like the one in the sentra, civic, integra, etc. produce higger HP than torque at it's peak - because it's torque peaks at a higher rpm than 5252. You'll often hear people talk about a "flat torque curve". An engine that has a flat torque curve theoretically produces power, and therefore builds speed, that is more linear as opposed to peaky (is that a word?). So, yes, in order to climb hills or accelerate quickly, you need high revs, but that's only because we drive vehicles that require high rpm to do those tasks, unlike a car like the viper that makes it's power down low in the rpm range.
  • hkchanhkchan Posts: 420
    Good explanation but I thought 5,252 (not sure about this number) was just a conversion factor to express the power in horsepower (hp). It has nothing to do with 5,252 rpm. Continuting to nitpick, there's no such thing as "higher HP than torque at its peak". It's like saying person A weighs more in lbs. than twice his height in inches.
  • One Possible Guess as to why the 55 mph limit was listed on the older manuals. I have driven many autos and even some sticks that do not have tachs. Maybe that is when the highway speed limit for break-ins was instituted since these people wouldn't know how many rpm's they were doing. I believe the 2001 manual changing the break in limit from 4K rpm and 55 mph to 4K and not ove legal speed was intentional and they no longer feel the 55mph limit is neccessary.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    Ignore the last post. Power is found by multiplying torque times rpm (there is a conversion factor involved which is pi/33000). Nevertheless your engine works much harder (developes more Horsepower) at 70 mph than 25 mph. You have to know how much torque is developed at any rpm and that will be a function of the resistance the engine is meeting. For instance when you are in neutral and increase speed of the engine there is essentially no horsepower involved because there is hardly any torque developed in idle (NO RESISTANCE). To answer your question more directly. When you mash down on your accelerator when the car is in gear the greater the rpm the more horsepower it is developing (remember that engine is straining its guts out and putting out maximum torque at any given rpm.) So when you see the rated horsepower of say 160 for a 4 cylinder engine and only 150 for a 6 cylinder - the 6 cylinder wins the drag every time because it developes more torque at a slower speed. The 4 cylinder needs 6500 rpm to develop its 160 Hp whereas the 6 cyl developes its 150 hp at a much lower rpm. In short small engines need lots of rpm's to develop horsepower. Cubic inches develop torque pure and simple. There ain't no substitute for 'cubes' Hope this helps- if not email me.
  • While I can't comment about conversion factors and the like, I can say that your remark about a 6 cylinder car always winning is a bit misguided.
    Just because a car needs to rev higher does not make it a slower car; it just simply needs to run faster because that's where its power is made.
    My car is a 4 cylinder and makes most of it's power above 3,000 rpm, but I can assure you that I can accelerate faster than many 6 cylinder cars.
  • davidb72davidb72 Posts: 174
    I agree with you that there are some fast 4 cylinder cars out there, I think adc100 was alluding to a mythical car that does not exist. A car that is equal in every way, with the only difference being a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder (or an 8, 10, or 12 for that matter). If you use that criteria I think he is correct, a 6 will generally produce more torque sooner than a 4. Once again, assuming that both engines are equal (i.e. either both are naturally aspirated or both are turbo or supercharged). One interesting thing is how the motors stroke affects torque. But of course for our argument both engines would have similar bore and stroke- I guess we could (would have to) make the bore and stroke proportionally smaller on the 6 to make up for having 2 extra cylinders. (So that both engines have the same displacement, whether it be 2 litres or 4 litres or whatever.) So there you go, what does that tell you? I'd like to have a small block chevy in the nose of my Miata, but then the balance of the car goes away and I'm screwed again....
  • I am in the market for a new car, and was impressed by two Sentra test drives for the 2001 model (GXE and SE w. P/P). When checking this forum, all I could find was vast numbers of postings about break-in periods, drag racing, and adding better tires. This gives me the signal that there really is not much to complain about in reliability, except for only a handful of unlucky owners with electrical problems. Compared to some of the other forums for cars, this says wonders about the build quality of the Sentra. Basically, there is nothing to complain about, so heated discussions arise from street racers. Heck, all I want is an economic and reliable commuter with a great stereo, without giving up too much power, roadholding ability, or money. A Cappucino SE without the ugly midnight cloth and stiff suspension found on the Performance Package is probably what I need. Thanks, everyone!
  • fpm2fpm2 Posts: 13
    I see some flaws in your statements. First of all, HP is just a conversion of torque at any given RPM (which you say) - so far so good. Your problem is with your next statement - "your engine works much harder (develops more
    Horsepower) at 70 mph than 25 mph". That is incorrect. Your car sees more resistance (due to air friction)at 70 mph, but that has nothing to do with the HP your "engine" produces. When you have your car in neutral and "rev" it, it is still producing the same amount of HP, it's just not in gear, so you don't move. Depress your clutch, rev to 6000 rpm and then let go of the clutch. Your engine didn't just start making HP, it just didn't have a means of transferring that power. When an engine is tested to see how much HP it produces, they don't drive at 70 mph to measure it. The engine is placed on it's own and revved across it's rpm range. These values are then recorded (regardless of what gear your in and how many mph you are doing). This is your torque curve. From that curve, they can interpolate your HP at any rpm using the formula I listed previously.
    You're also incorrect when you say the greater the rpm, the greater the HP. Look at any mid-80's GM 6 cylinder engine (or others for all I know) and you will see that the torque peaks at about 4000 rpm or so. After that, torque decreases. That is why when you look at engine ratings you see a peak for HP & torque. For instance the Sentra has 145 Hp at 6400 rpm and 136 ft-lbs of Torque at 4800 rpm. That means that at 6400 rpm, the engine is only producing 119 ft-lbs. of torque (power at the crank). I won't even comment on 6-cylinders winning drag races since we all understand that that statement is flawed. The statement is only true - maybe - for short distances. It also depends on the weights of the vehicles.
  • jweijwei Posts: 1
    Hi, I just bought a 2001 Sentra GXE last month, and I loved it. I only get about 650 mi on it now, however, I notice that I did not get very good gas mileage on this car. Unlike what it was claimed, I only get about 22 mpg. Is that normal?
  • Yes that is a good question. What are the GXE and the SE with automatics gatting on the road and in the city?
  • I have had my SE with perf pack for 2 months and in town I have averaged 28 miles per gallon. On the highway I get 33. This is much better than the manufacturer claims it gets. It puzzles me why you get that kind of mileage with a gxe. I have been amazed at my gas mileage. Maybe you have a leaky gas tank. Regardless, go have it checked out.
  • I have the 2001 GXE, and the gas mileage for mine is 33 with 30% city/town and the rest highway.
  • Just wanted to thank all those folks who have posted to this site. I just purchased a 2000 Sentra SE leftover. Car included auto, sunroof, Perf package and matts with a selling price of $16k (not including tax and reg fees). I checked out a lot of posting sites and test drove Civic (nice but boring), Cavalier (cheap but, well just cheap), Focus (handled great but not up to the Sentra in quality) and Neon (R/T is cool but concerned about quality). After one week of ownership I know I made the right choice. The car handles great and has good power, although I am aware of the break in. Fit and finish is great and gas milage is about 28 avg.

    Have any of you out there made any changes to improve power and handling? I was thinking about adding a K&N Filtercharger but not sure where to get it for a Nissan. Also how about lowering the car and different tires. I am certainly interested in knowing what others out there have done.

    Thanks again for all the info and honest feedback.
  • rberusrberus Posts: 25
    After having 2 computers down for 2 weeks, I can post again!

    I've been getting ~24-26mpg on 95% city driving. That's based on 3900 miles since Sept. 2. Daily routine is drive 2 miles to work, and 2 miles to home.

    BTW, enough snow to cover the roads fell yesterday where I live. The tires do blow chunks, but the ABS works well.
  • I've got a 2000 GXE manual and I drive 95% highway - I average 37 MPG, but I've had it as high as 41. I got about 2 MPG better by switching to synthetic oil, but that still doesn't explain anyone getting MPGs in the low 20s.
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