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Nissan Sentra 2006 and earlier

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Comments

  • davidb72davidb72 Posts: 174
    I agree with you that there are some fast 4 cylinder cars out there, I think adc100 was alluding to a mythical car that does not exist. A car that is equal in every way, with the only difference being a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder (or an 8, 10, or 12 for that matter). If you use that criteria I think he is correct, a 6 will generally produce more torque sooner than a 4. Once again, assuming that both engines are equal (i.e. either both are naturally aspirated or both are turbo or supercharged). One interesting thing is how the motors stroke affects torque. But of course for our argument both engines would have similar bore and stroke- I guess we could (would have to) make the bore and stroke proportionally smaller on the 6 to make up for having 2 extra cylinders. (So that both engines have the same displacement, whether it be 2 litres or 4 litres or whatever.) So there you go, what does that tell you? I'd like to have a small block chevy in the nose of my Miata, but then the balance of the car goes away and I'm screwed again....
  • I am in the market for a new car, and was impressed by two Sentra test drives for the 2001 model (GXE and SE w. P/P). When checking this forum, all I could find was vast numbers of postings about break-in periods, drag racing, and adding better tires. This gives me the signal that there really is not much to complain about in reliability, except for only a handful of unlucky owners with electrical problems. Compared to some of the other forums for cars, this says wonders about the build quality of the Sentra. Basically, there is nothing to complain about, so heated discussions arise from street racers. Heck, all I want is an economic and reliable commuter with a great stereo, without giving up too much power, roadholding ability, or money. A Cappucino SE without the ugly midnight cloth and stiff suspension found on the Performance Package is probably what I need. Thanks, everyone!
  • fpm2fpm2 Posts: 13
    I see some flaws in your statements. First of all, HP is just a conversion of torque at any given RPM (which you say) - so far so good. Your problem is with your next statement - "your engine works much harder (develops more
    Horsepower) at 70 mph than 25 mph". That is incorrect. Your car sees more resistance (due to air friction)at 70 mph, but that has nothing to do with the HP your "engine" produces. When you have your car in neutral and "rev" it, it is still producing the same amount of HP, it's just not in gear, so you don't move. Depress your clutch, rev to 6000 rpm and then let go of the clutch. Your engine didn't just start making HP, it just didn't have a means of transferring that power. When an engine is tested to see how much HP it produces, they don't drive at 70 mph to measure it. The engine is placed on it's own and revved across it's rpm range. These values are then recorded (regardless of what gear your in and how many mph you are doing). This is your torque curve. From that curve, they can interpolate your HP at any rpm using the formula I listed previously.
    You're also incorrect when you say the greater the rpm, the greater the HP. Look at any mid-80's GM 6 cylinder engine (or others for all I know) and you will see that the torque peaks at about 4000 rpm or so. After that, torque decreases. That is why when you look at engine ratings you see a peak for HP & torque. For instance the Sentra has 145 Hp at 6400 rpm and 136 ft-lbs of Torque at 4800 rpm. That means that at 6400 rpm, the engine is only producing 119 ft-lbs. of torque (power at the crank). I won't even comment on 6-cylinders winning drag races since we all understand that that statement is flawed. The statement is only true - maybe - for short distances. It also depends on the weights of the vehicles.
  • jweijwei Posts: 1
    Hi, I just bought a 2001 Sentra GXE last month, and I loved it. I only get about 650 mi on it now, however, I notice that I did not get very good gas mileage on this car. Unlike what it was claimed, I only get about 22 mpg. Is that normal?
  • Yes that is a good question. What are the GXE and the SE with automatics gatting on the road and in the city?
  • I have had my SE with perf pack for 2 months and in town I have averaged 28 miles per gallon. On the highway I get 33. This is much better than the manufacturer claims it gets. It puzzles me why you get that kind of mileage with a gxe. I have been amazed at my gas mileage. Maybe you have a leaky gas tank. Regardless, go have it checked out.
  • I have the 2001 GXE, and the gas mileage for mine is 33 with 30% city/town and the rest highway.
  • Just wanted to thank all those folks who have posted to this site. I just purchased a 2000 Sentra SE leftover. Car included auto, sunroof, Perf package and matts with a selling price of $16k (not including tax and reg fees). I checked out a lot of posting sites and test drove Civic (nice but boring), Cavalier (cheap but, well just cheap), Focus (handled great but not up to the Sentra in quality) and Neon (R/T is cool but concerned about quality). After one week of ownership I know I made the right choice. The car handles great and has good power, although I am aware of the break in. Fit and finish is great and gas milage is about 28 avg.

    Have any of you out there made any changes to improve power and handling? I was thinking about adding a K&N Filtercharger but not sure where to get it for a Nissan. Also how about lowering the car and different tires. I am certainly interested in knowing what others out there have done.

    Thanks again for all the info and honest feedback.
  • rberusrberus Posts: 25
    After having 2 computers down for 2 weeks, I can post again!

    I've been getting ~24-26mpg on 95% city driving. That's based on 3900 miles since Sept. 2. Daily routine is drive 2 miles to work, and 2 miles to home.

    BTW, enough snow to cover the roads fell yesterday where I live. The tires do blow chunks, but the ABS works well.
  • I've got a 2000 GXE manual and I drive 95% highway - I average 37 MPG, but I've had it as high as 41. I got about 2 MPG better by switching to synthetic oil, but that still doesn't explain anyone getting MPGs in the low 20s.
  • wchuwchu Posts: 1
    Hi, I am from Toronto, Canada. I am researching on the 2001 Sentra SE. Seems like a pretty good car and good value. However, I am not sure if I want everything in the performance package except the ABS. Can the ABS option be had on its own without getting the entire performance package for the SE? Also, can someone tell me the difference between the SE standard suspension and the one in performance package - pros and cons?
    Is the performance package worth getting?

    Thanks.
  • rberusrberus Posts: 25
    Well, the 2.0L in the SE is rated ~30mpg for highway, and 24mpg for city from the EPA, so I'm right in line on that.

    As for the perf. pack., get it - its just way to good of a deal to pass up.

    Yes, ABS is available as a stand-alone option. Actually, on my 2000, ABS didn't come with the perf package.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    'bhp' is "brake horsepower" from a "prony brake". bhp is measured at maximum resistance at a given rpm. Your car makes very little hoursepower in neutral at any rpm. Only engine and transmission friction. dart64- you're right I didn't mean to imply that all 6's beat all 4's. davidb72's explanation is what I had in mind, I can tell he is an engineer. I just bought a 2001 (today) Sentra SE with auto only. I maybe should have looked at the 1.8 liter more closely it might be a later generation engine. I don't believe it has a distributer (unlike the 2 liter) and also it doesn't have solid lifters (2 liter has solids). Any thoughts? I really wanted the 4 wheel discs and it appeared that the SE had bells and whistles for a reasonable price.
  • Well, after three months of EXHAUSTIVE research and dozens of test drives, I have chosen to replace my troublesome Ford Focus with a 2000 Sentra SE. I am one of the few who did not want the value priced Power Package, as I hate the Midnight Cloth fabric, especially with my Cappuccino exterior, and also consider the Stage II suspension to be a bit too stiff for my tastes.

    As for the final three cars, I deliberately test drove all three back-to-back on the same day, so as to get the best opinion. To make a long story short, I considered the Sentra SE to be a much better value, and have better acceleration than the base Toyota Solara. The Toyota was rated by me as last place of the three. Surprise, surprise!
    In second place, with slightly better performance and handling than the Sentra SE was the fuel efficient Olds Alero with the 3.4 liter V-6. Believe it or not, the Sentra SE is almost as fast as the Olds with the V-6. Had my memory of brake rotor problems on my old 98 Malibu (cousin to the Alero) not reminded me of what I went through on that car, I would have bought the Alero. I was lucky enough to have the cheapest of the final three cars to be very reliable. My Sentra SE wound up being $3000 cheaper than the Alero and $7000 cheaper than the Solara. I made a very smart purchase with the Sentra, getting it at invoice (leftover 2000 model) and 5.9% APR for 4 years. This was simply too good to pass up. My Nissan dealer is also one of the easiest car dealers that I have ever had to deal with in my 15 years of buying cars.

    Thanks again everyone for all of the tips.
  • No matter how you look at it the Sentra SE is a wonderful buy. May I suggest that you visit www.b15sentra.net where all the 2000 Sentra owners hangout and discuss their cars. I know its tough but be easy on the car the first 1000 miles.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    I'll check the link. I will be easy on the car for that time period. I know how important it is. I changed the oil after 27 miles to Mobil 1. Sounds crazy as maybe I should have given it time to flush itself. I'm a real believer in Mobil 1 oil and I couldn't help myself.
  • I have been told by many engine builders not to run a synthetic oil until the engine is broken in. Synthetic oil works so good that it doesn't allow the piston rings to get seated in. Get the engine good and broken in (7,000 to 8,000 miles) before switching to a synthetic oil.
  • I've got a 2000 SE with some problems:

    The left side center vent does not blow at all even when I have the fans set at speed #4. The right side center vent blows fine.

    The sunroof does not open all the way when pressing the open button. It slides 90% and then stops...I have to release the button then press the open button again to open the remaining 10%.

    Anyone else have these issues.
  • I live in NY and I am shopping around for a Sentra GXE automatic with no other options. I need someone to throw me a bone in giving me a target price with destination charge included and without taxes please. I was quoted $14,100 at a nearby dealership.
  • Have used Mobil 1 for quite a while on many cars after break-in period. All ok. Understand the concern about no syn during break-in but then how do you explain why Porsche, Corvettes and also rebuild from Autozone come with Mobil 1 as their factory fill. If it's good enough for a very expensive Porsche engine maybe it's ok for everyone else????
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