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Nissan Sentra 2006 and earlier

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  • lgoldinlgoldin Posts: 90
    I found that if you follow the manual then you should shift at ~2400RPM. It lets you to keep with a traffic no problem. If you are not in rush then shifting even at 2000-2100 RPM moves the car nicely. I normally shift ~3000RPM, which gives me slight edge over the regular traffic and when I want some fun or need real fast going then, well, 6500RPM does the job. Basically, since Sentra's engine is 2.0L not GM's 3.8L you need to run it at quiet high RPM to feel a power. Between 3500 to 5000RPM is really sweet range for Sentra.
  • narenjinarenji Posts: 161
    I just read my manual, and it says 87 is fine. It doesn't even mention higher octanes and what they may add to the engine's performance. I've been filling up 87 octane, and I've used about 5 different brands, and I've noticed no difference in the performance.

    Also, with regards to top speed, the SE manual seems to have short gearing, so I'd be surprised if the top speed is above 130 mph. I don't know though.
  • kstephankstephan Posts: 41
    My SE has pretty much every option, except auto transmission. I figured I'd regret it if I didn't get the best one I could find, so it has the PP, ABS/side airbags, sunroof, cabin microfilter, etc.
    I didn't knock myself out going for the ultimate
    price, as I had limited time to shop, so I went through Autobytel. With all the options plus destination, it came to a bit over $16.8K. I've seen lower prices mentioned in this topic, but for what I got, I'm pleased.

    The car is outstanding. I really enjoy driving it; it seems like a much more expensive car than it is--definitely like a mini-Maxima. Very composed on the highway, but nimble and quick in traffic. It doesn't have quite the handling and ultimate performance of my former Civic Si, but overall, I think it's a better car.
  • scottdudescottdude Posts: 177
    1. In the Sentra brochure there is an interior shot that shows both the in dash 6 CD player under the a/c and the single CD/radio combo over the a/c. My question: if this is the correct set up, will the single CD player still work, in effect giving you 7 CD's, or is the top one disconnected when the 6 CD changer is installed?

    2. Has anyone gotten an after-market 6 CD in dash player, and if so, what make did you get and how much was it? $399 for the Nissan sounds OK, but I'm wondering if I can do better by going to a car audio store or Circuit City.
  • narenjinarenji Posts: 161
    Kstephan, how did you find an SE with PP, ABS/Side airbags, sunroof and manual? I tried getting that exact option set, and living here in California, all dealers and Carsdirect.com told me the nearest one with those options was in New York... Where do you live? I could find many SEs with the PP and/or the sunroof, but none with PP, ABS/Side Airbags, and a manual. I really wanted the ABS/Side airbag because I know that they will pay for themselves in a few years with the insurance discount, but I didn't want to wait too long for a car, and getting a car from New York seemed too far away and possibly risky- what if the car wasn't really available? Hope you enjoy your new SE.

    With regards to the CD changer questions, I do not know what connecting a CD changer would do to the usability of the single CD in the receiver up top, but I can tell you that Crutchfield has some changers that you might want to look at. They have an OEM 6 disc changer (not in-dash) for Nissans costing $300. They also have a Panasonic (I believe the upgraded audio system is a Panasonic system) 8 disc changer (also not in-dash) for $200. They have a Blaupunkt in dash 5 disc changer for $250, but that requires having a Blaupunkt dash unit to control it. Alpine makes an in-dash changer too, but I have no idea about the price. Surely there are other manufacturers who make in-dash units, but Panasonic doesn't.
  • hkchanhkchan Posts: 420
    Have you gotten a quote from your insurance agent? I thought many insurance companies (at least the major ones) give practically zero discount on ABS. Not sure about SAB.
  • kstephankstephan Posts: 41
    I guess I just got lucky with my SE. I live in Seattle. I spelled out my wish list to the Autobytel rep, and he did a computer search of the Nissan dealerships in the area. He said there weren't a lot of cars out there to my specs, but there were two or three black ones, and a radium, which is the one I got. I would have been willing to lose the sunroof and possibly the ABS/side airbags package if that's what it would have taken to get a 5-speed with the PP, but I'm glad they found the loaded one.

    Maybe you could try Carsdirect again and have them check the Seattle metro area--maybe those black ones are still available. I could give you the name of my Autobytel rep (off the board) if you're interested.
  • Can anyone recommend a local Nissan dealer in the Louisville, KY area? Or perhaps discourage me from visiting a certain one?
  • narenjinarenji Posts: 161
    Well, with regards to the insurance discount, I am insured through Kemper Insurance and before getting my new Sentra SE the two cars I had on my policy were a 1998 Mazda 626 LX and a 1993 Mazda MX6. Both have ABS, and the 626 has dual front airbags, while the MX6 only has it on the driver's side. I didn't check the policy decleration page, but I do believe that the discount for Dual Airbags, ABS, and the Passive/Active Alarm systems appear on the policy premium page. I can check to give you the actual amount of discount I'm getting, but it's something like $120 a year for ABS alone. I'm not sure about the other two safety items. The ABS & Side airbag option should pay for itself even quicker than ABS alone. While cars are all reasonably safe on frontal impacts, they still lag on side impact safety. I'm sure Side airbags should give a sizable discount.

    Kstephan, thanks for offering to give me the Autobytel rep info- but I've already bought a Sentra SE- I live in Southern Calif (near LA), and we felt that forgoing the extremely-difficult-to-get ABS/Side airbag option would be ok, considering that roads are rarely bad enough to warrant ABS. We have ABS on both our 626 and the MX6, and we really were glad for it because we lived in Maine while me and my fiancee went to college, and ABS was useful almost every day in the winter.
  • kstephankstephan Posts: 41
    In older messages about the 1000-mile break-in period for the SE, people were constantly saying "don't rev over 4000 RPM," and I think they claimed it was in the owner's manual. There's no such caution in the 2001 Sentra owner's manual. It warns you not to drive at a constant RPM or accelerate at full throttle, but no specific RPM limitation is given. I generally have kept mine well under 4000, but I did zing it closer to 5000 a couple of times (though not at full throttle). I am extremely confident going over 4000 in the break-in period won't hurt the engine in the slightest as long as it's properly warmed up--these aren't fragile, unproven engines--but I'm wondering if anyone knows why past posters have been so adamant about the 4000 RPM limit?
  • kissfan1kissfan1 Posts: 283
    I'm the proud owner of a 2001 Pontiac Aztek and my most recent purchase .....2001 Sentra SE.

    I love both vehicles . Just did my first oil change @ 2500 Kms or 1500 miles. I would have liked to have done my first change earlier.

    I will more then likely switch over to Mobil 1. I've been told to wait till 20,000 kms (12,000 miles) to switch to Synthetic. Any opinions or ideas.

    I'm about to hit 12,000 with the Aztek and will move to synthetic.
  • sentrafansentrafan Posts: 40
    kstephan,

    According to the 2000 Nissan Sentra Owner's Manual, Page 5-16:
    BREAK-IN SCHEDULE
    "During the first 1000 miles...Do not drive over 55 MPH and do not run the engine over 4000 rpm."

    This would explain why you've seen older posts referring to the importance of keeping the revs under 4000 RPM for the first 1000 miles. Apparently Nissan rethought this for the 2001 Owner's Manual.

    kissfan1,
    Depending on whom you ask, you'll be told you can run synthetic oil from mileage 0, to mileage 5000, or, in your case, at mileage 12000. Mobil 1 claims you don't have to wait to break-in the engine, but another synthetic oil manufacturer (forget which one) claims you should wait. I have one personal data point from which to draw a conclusion. A friend of mine put a brand new engine in his Chevy Impala and from the beginning ran synthetic oil After several thousand miles he tore the engine apart (he does these kinds of things) and found that the engine wasn't sealing and wearing like it should. He came to the conclusion that it was because he was running synthetic, which didn't allow the engine to break-in properly. Who knows? Anyway, with both of my vehicles, I changed to synthetic between 4000 and 5000 miles.
  • mdrivermdriver Posts: 385
    Most insurance premiums are only lowered slightly, it at all, by adding ABS. This is probably because of two reasons. First, they (insurance cos.) will make less money if they reduce the premiums. Second, Many studies have shown no overall reduction in accidents for cars with ABS compared to non-ABS. The latter is probably due to driver overconfidence in ABS and driver misuse of ABS thus nullifying its advantages. Car alarms also do very little to lower premiums.
  • I like pretty much everything about my 2001 Sentra SE except the spoiler. The salesmen steered me to the performance package (which of course comes with the spoiler), telling me that I couldn't get the SE these days without the performance package.

    I'm 37, & to me, spoilers are kids stuff. What are my options?
  • jcu1886jcu1886 Posts: 39
    Yeah, I don't particularly like the spoiler, either. It is too high. I was using a Maxima loaner for a couple of days; the spoiler on that car is much less obtrusive.
  • roninjoutenroninjouten Posts: 201
    A good dealership will work with you on this and will credit you on the final price.
  • Problem is, I've signed already. But I'll still mention it to the dealer next time I stop by...

    ... Actually I'm not sure I've gotten involved with such a good dealer anyway (Yonkers Nissan in New York).

    For example, I didn't do my homework on what the Nissan Vehicle Security System includes. I only read what's posted on the Nissan website, which mentions the Immobilizer, but *doesn't* mention that the Security System includes an alarm which sounds if the vehicle is disturbed.

    I'm sure the salesmen knew that fact, but still they sold me an additional alarm system for $400. (After-market brand.)

    I think Nissans are good cars, but beware the dealers... I had similar negative experiences when I bought my last Nissan (different dealer)...

    Frankly, I'd advise someone who's young or inexperienced to try Saturns instead...
  • stxrx7stxrx7 Posts: 10
    I work for an insurance company. Most companies, including my employer, do NOT give discounts for ABS or side airbags.

    The loss history on cars equipped with ABS does not differ from vehicles without it. Since most vehicles do not include side airbags as a standard feature, there has not been enough actuarial data collected yet.

    Anti-theft discounts aren't significant enough to warrant adding an alarm or vin etching. I have all of the aformentioned equipment on my SE, but only for piece of mind.
  • gserep1gserep1 Posts: 92
    Hello,
    I am here to report my first gas mileage readings on my new Sentra SE w/ Performance Package, and 5 speed. I drove from the dealership and went directly to a service station and checked the tire pressure. The book calls for 33 psi front, and 30 psi rear. I added enough air to bring the pressure to 35 front and 35 rear.

    My very first tank I drove 248 miles and put in 9.2 gallons of regular (to the neck), which yielded a hair under 27 miles per gallon...or 26.9 or so. I was pleasantly suprised. This was 90% freeway driving in California. My second tank gave me 295.7 miles and it took 10.2 gallons. My best friend spilled at least 2 tenths on the ground (which is ridiculous to say the least.)Either way, it was close to 29 miles per gallon. Needless to say, I am very pleased.

    I have a few observations though:
    1. The fuel gauge is not accurate. The needle stays buried at the top for the first 120 miles or so, and then hangs around the 3/4 mark for 60 or so miles. At 295.7 miles, the needle had not gotten to the 1/4 mark, yet it took 10 gallons. The car is supposed to have a 13.2 gallon fuel tank, but I don't know for sure. I may have to do my regular test on a new car. (I usually drive it until it runs out...with a 5 gallon gas can in the trunk.) When the tank is completely dry,. I add the 5 gallons, and immediately go to the station and fill it all the way up. That sets my baseline.) More on this if I decide to do that. It is not a good idea to run the car out of gas on purpose, so I may not do it this time.

    2. I wanted an automatic transmissioned car, but on the day I bought mine, I drove 3 or them, and they all slipped badly. I remembered what I read in this website, and I changed my mind and got the 5 speed. THANKS to ALL OF YOU on that on. I do not want to have that kind of problem with a new car, EVEN if they put a new one in.

    3. My car was built in December 2000, so it sat around somewhere for a long time. I do not trust the oil that has been sitting in the crankcase for so long. The dealer recommends 3750 miles as the first oil change. I am thinking about changing sooner.

    4. Fit and finish is very good, although I find that the driver's door closes harder than the rest. The other doors close with a resounding "clunk", but the driver's door has to be closed firmly, or it will not fully close. I may go to get this looked at, but I do not want them to realign the door if it messes up the original settings. Right now, it is not leaking air, nor are there ANY rattles. I hope that this will continue to be the case.

    5. I had to drive about 35 miles from my home, but I got this car for $15,101 + tax and license for a total of $16,464.00 out the door. I was satisfied, but felt they could have done better. That was much better than in San Diego, where the best I could do was 15,600 + tax and license for manual trans and 16,200 for automatic trans. NO sunroof in either case. They did try to slip in a $299.00 "Window Etching" package in on me, but I refused to pay that. They claimed that ALL of their cars get that as soon as they come off the truck, but I said "sorry". They did take off the price with no hassle. I did not see the etching on the car at all, and I was glad that I did not have it.

    All in all, this is the most POWERFUL 4 cylinder non-turbo car that I have ever owned. It runs as good as some 6 cylinder cars I have driven. Just like many other comments that I have read, I am simply amazed at the power and versatility. It is heads and shoulders above the Honda in every respect but fuel mileage. I am sure once I get synthetic oil in the engine, synthetic gear oil in the transmission, and a K&N air filter, I will get better mileage. I can't wait to get it broken in, and to make the changes.

    Thanks again,
    GSEREP1
  • jcu1886jcu1886 Posts: 39
    You are right about the fuel gauge not being too accurate. Mine will stay above the full mark for about 100 miles. Once it reaches the 1/4 full mark, however, the needle drops fast and the light comes on not long after.

    On another matter, I have had trouble with the remotes blowing a fuse, leaving me without auto door locks, key alarm, all interior lights, trunk light, map lights, etc. Anyone else had the problem? I take it to the dealer, they replace the fuse, but then the same thing happens a few days later. They of course are not able to duplicate the problem in the time they have the car.
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