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Nissan Sentra 2006 and earlier



  • sentrafansentrafan Posts: 40
    Katraak: Yes, I hear it virtually every morning. zhz must have read the same thing I did about it being some type of pump or belt. I wouldn't sweat it, but if you are concerned the good thing is you know your dealer will be able to reproduce it if you leave your car there overnight.

    Concerning oil filters, this link,, is a great resource.

    Concerning synthetic oil, what else can be said that gserep1 didn't already say in his excellent overview? There really is no question that synthetic oil performs much better than conventional petroleum oil. Why not spend a few extra bucks and ensure that our high-revving engines have the greatest level of protection possible? And with the extended drain intervals that synthetic oil provides, the additional cost is mostly negated.

  • gserep1gserep1 Posts: 92
    I will make this one short. I got cut off in mid sentence. The final point that I was making had to do with using oil thicker than 10W-30. If you do not have a turbo charger, you should not need anything thicker than 10W-30. It will only cause you to burn more gasoline. Watch for, and only buy oils that have the "energy-conserving" feature on the label. That feature will be found on any 0W-30 oil (new oil made by Mobil 1), 5W-30, straight 30, and 10W-30 oil regardless of manufacturer. SAE (Society Of Automotive Engineers) only recognizes these 4 weights of oil as having the characteristics necessary to save gasoline. Any oil with 40 or 50 weight designations will cause it to lose the "energy conserving" feature.

    By the way, I tried the 0W-30 Mobil 1 pure synthetic oil in my wife's 1997 Explorer with 5.0L V8, and it really DOES give better gas mileage and protection. The engine is quieter overall, and the highway mileage increased from 17 mpg to 20.5 mpg. My wife drives sane speeds, so she will probably do better than me.

    This will be the oil I will try in the Sentra, although I could get by on 5W-30 or 10W-30 due to our mild winters. On the other hand, the 0W-30 should work great in colder climates, and because it is synthetic, it will protect in Alabama in cold climate, and give you extreme weather protection (over 100 degrees F as well.) Once I get it in, I will let you know. Don't get concerned about the valve-train noise, but I would get that belt situation looked at. I will be watching mine at about 14,000 miles or so, and see if it happens to me. I have no other noises, fuel pump or otherwise...just the sound of the loose timing chain until the tensioner tightens it up. I do hope that will be gone once I change to synthetic.

    Thank you Sentrafan for that EXCELLENT piece on oil filters. I am happy to say that I concur with their findings, and used Fram filters only in an emergency in the past, but now I won't use them at ALL! It seems like I was paid to say the things this report said. Fram and Pennzoil products are out for me REGARDLESS of what they are. NUFF SAID!

    Thanks again... Boy, this is the shortest message that I have written in a while. I think I will make them shorter from here on in.

  • katraakkatraak Posts: 33
    sentrafan: Looks like they liked Purolator Premiumplus over Mobil 1 as they said that the latter tends to leak at highpressures. Anyideas about the Nissan OEM oil filter. Thats what I have been using.

    GSEREP1: I can't believe you get 3.5 mpg more mileage with Mobil1. Thats good news. The SE is relatively quiet at low rpms but when you push it past 3500 then there is a growl from the engine and it gets noisy. I will switch to 0W30 and see if I have any mileage improvement and if it makes any difference in cabin noise.

  • gserep1gserep1 Posts: 92
    After reading that article, looks like I will be using Purolator as well. My best friend swears by them, and now I know why.

    Yes, I was also suprised by the increase in mileage that 0W-30 Mobil 1 oil gave me, but it is after all, very thin oil on start-up, and flows easily. I like the synthetic protection factor as well, so I don't have to worry about high heat. Plus people in climates that go from real hot to real cold don't have to change from "winter" to "summer" oil and back again each year. I can hardly wait for my 9000 miles to come so I can try the good stuff.

    Thanks again,

    See, even old dogs like ME can learn something new, LOL.
  • mayankhpmayankhp Posts: 22
    Hi my friend GSEREP1,

    Hats off to your knowledge and experience on automotive.

    Now guide me here as you know that I don't have any knowledge on Auto.
    My altima is due for oil change and having 12120 miles on it.
    I believe you and have decided to switch to synthetic oil and I will save $7.55.
    I have to change Synthetic oil at every 7500miles Am I right? And it will cost me $36.45 which is economical (savings is a difference of $44 minus $36.45) against having (conventional) oil change at dealership ($22.00 for every 3700miles).

    Cost calculations 5w30 Mobile1 $4.49*5bottles = $22.45 (prices at peps boys)
    oil filter ACDelco =$ 4.00
    Labor charge at Perfect Auto including disposal=$ 10.00
    Total $36.45

    I am going to use 5/30 mobile1 synthetic oil with AcDelco filter for all seasons at So CA, Am I right? I will save all my receipts with Perfect auto's labor charge invoice attached on it.
    I will use synthetic oil in my Sentra only after 10.000miles till then keep continue with dealer.

    Please advise me and confirm my understanding.

  • zhzzhz Posts: 29
    How did you provide record of oil change intervals when you do your own oil change? Just receipt of buying oil, oil filters?
    I only have 8000miles on my 2000 GXE. I'll wait for a while before switching to synthetic oil.
    also, If synthetic oil can last for up to 7500, (this is what I drive in almost a YEAR), would they void warranty if you only change oil twice a year.
  • katraakkatraak Posts: 33
    even if we use synthetic oil we have to change it every 3750 miles (Nissan recommends oil change at 3750 miles). The advantage of using synthetic is that even if you forget to change then you have a leeway of say 1000-1500 miles. Suppose if oil changes are done every 7500 miles, and there is engine damage (not necessarily due to 7500 drain interval which I believe is good enough) then the dealer might not honor the warranty because it is in violation of the Nissan service manual. So IMHO even if we use synthetic it is best to change at 3750 miles until atleast the warranty expires.
  • gserep1gserep1 Posts: 92

       And thanks again. Because (and only because my car is still under warranty), I will change the oil somewhere between 3750 and 5000 miles. That is what I do with my other cars. Even with the added expense, I gain with increased cleanliness and more power.The VW only requires oil changes every 10,000 miles after you reach 20,000 miles on the odometer. I would never go that long..especially with conventional oils. VW gives you a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty, which is in effect, after the standard 2 year 24,000 mile factory warranty has expired. I have had such wonderful experience with synthetic products in the past, I know what they will do to keep an engine clean and sludge free.

      If you would like to see some more proof, please go to: and see what the experts have to say. Either 5W-30 or 0W-30 would be excellent for your car katraak, and would give you great gas mileage to boot. These oils will provide great protective qualities. I would lean more toward 0W-30 if you travel in snowy weather for awhile. These oils flow at 50 below 0 for the 5W-30, and 62 below zero for the 0W-30, so cold weather performance is no problem. Mobil 1 has just reformulated their oil again and they now call it "tri-synthetic" because they have added a 3rd ingredient into the puzzle. If you have the time, please read the website..especially the part that says "Why synthetics?". You will begin to understand how good this stuff really is (synthetics).
    Also try the part that talks about myths about synthetic oil. This will also help a lot. For myself and mayankhp, we can get by with 5W-30 synthetic. I am not sure where "zhz" is from, but one of these two oils should be fine. I have had such good luck with the 0W-30 in the Explorer, it will be a hard decision to figure out which one to try first. We can't go wrong either way.

       I would like to recommend another product to use on the Sentra. That is a K&N air filter. This unique filter will replace the paper one in the car with a cotton filter reinforced with a mesh screen on both sides of the cotton for added stability and strength. This cotton is oiled with special K&N oil that causes dirt to cling to the filter and not get into the engine. This will keep your intake manifold cleaner, and thus keeps dirt out of your oil. It is cleaned generally once every 50,000 miles, but I clean it a bit more often due to dusty conditions I drive in. It is fully washable, and can be re-oiled and left to dry before re-installing.

      This filter has a 1 million mile warranty, and is truly the LAST filter you will ever have to buy. I have one in every vehicle I own now, and this goes back to 1987. They are a favorite of dune buggy and dirt bike racers worldwide, and if they work for them, then they will work for us.

     You can go to: and see for yourself. All 2000 and 2001 Sentras need K&N air filter number 33-2031-2. It will cost from 30 to 40 bucks, but it will not have to ever be replaced again, AND it flows better DIRTY than ANY brand NEW paper filter. It is cheaper to buy these filters through a distributor, like pep boys or Autozone instead of on line, because the company gives monetary incentives to distributors to sell their products, so they pass it to us. Good deal all around. They keep the intake manifold cleaner, and thus keeps the engine oil cleaner as well by blocking so much dirt.

      I guess that I had better go now, and see if I can find this air filter, or at least get it ordered. I changed my oil at 3000 miles and used Castrol GTX 10W30 yesterday. I put in 31/2 quarts, and I hope to have this in until 9000 miles are reached. The oil was a little dirty, but not black, by any stretch of the imagination. The car starts up, and the valve train noise is nearly totally gone. I am sure that synthetic oil will help this a lot.

      Have fun, and don't forget to write when you can!


  • gserep1gserep1 Posts: 92
    I meant to say that I changed my oil again at 6000 miles yesterday. I did this myself, and the first change was done by the dealer at 3000 miles. The oil was really beat up, but was not black and sooty, so I am happy. If the car is up on the rack, it is easy to get to the oil filter. Mine came off without a filter wrench, which was good because the engine was still hot. I DID drop the old filter on top of the exhaust pipe going under the oil pan. I wiped as much oil as I could, and I thought that I had gotten it all, but driving home, I discovered that I had not, because my car was smoking under the hood. Very embarrassing until the oil burned off. Next time I will be more careful. I was in a hurry because the auto hobby shop on base was closing, and I only had 1/2 hour to do the oil change, clean up my stall and turn in all of the tools, as well as dispose of all of the used oil and containers. So I was really rushing, but I made it.

    I am looking forward to hearing from my friends tomorrow. Have a great evening.
  • gserep1gserep1 Posts: 92
    I put a bad website address for Mobil oil. The one I gave will not work. Please use: I know that will work. Thanks again

  • wazappawazappa Posts: 32
    I am just curious if anyone has gotten their windows tinted on a 2000 Sentra. Was there any problems in particular with the back window, or does it tint up just fine. How much did it cost to get it done. If there is anything else that I should know about tinting the windows let me know. Thanks in advance for your help. It is greatly appreciated!!!
  • 21672167 Posts: 5
    I have a 93 sentra SER (with a 2 litre engine).I have put 171,000 mile on it quite trouble free.
    But few days ago it developed a sound and I took
    it to the dealer in Pittsburgh and following are the diagnois and repair recomendations.
    1.It failed the emission test and needs all the spark plugs and filters changed for a 415.00
    2.Front brakes freed for 273.75
    3.Lt head lamp asemblly cracked for 236.00
    (Lights do work fine)
    4.Lt fog light lens cracked for 98.00
    5.Rear brakes frozen freed for 60.00
    6.Lt outer CV booth is out 190.00
    7.The sound came from the AC pump which will cost me 700.00 to fix.

    The car according to Edmunds is worth less then 3000 dolaars .The total for these repairs is 2000 dollars.My question is the car has run fine
    are all the repairs necessary ?. Is it worth it to spend this much money on a car worth only
    3000 dollars. THe brake were done last year
    but I have since moved. This is my first time going to this dealer .The lights seem to be working fine otherwise
    Any advice will be appreciated .
  • mayankhpmayankhp Posts: 22
    I would do the following, if I would be at your place,
    1. I would not repair AC, and get it fix the rest which necessary and save repairing cost
    2. I would go to some small good mechanic rather that going to any dealership for this car
    3. I would get it fix within a fix dollar amout, say $ 400 or so
    4. I would keep this car with minimum repair till it dies
    This is my personal opinion, based on car's condition, history, and market value.
    Take it easy,
  • narenjinarenji Posts: 161
    Its been a while since I posted, but I've enjoyed reading your posts. Very informative. Thanks for being here. I read your posts about the faulty A/c from a while ago... is everything fixed now? I too feel that my car's AC is weak (I live east of LA), and I've been meaning to get it checked out. In fact, the AC feels weaker than the one in my 93 Mazda MX6.

    I hope mine isn't as involved as yours was. I also enjoyed reading your discussions about synthetic oils and the like. I want to use synthetic oil myself, but like you, I'm going to wait till about 10k miles. I would love to do oil changes myself, but how accessible is the filter? In my MX6 it was like right next to the exhaust pipe, and that made me a little concerned, so I haven't attempted oil changes on that car.

    I just upgraded the audio system in the car because I couldn't really stand the muddy sound the "premium" sound system was putting out. I got a new Pioneer head unit with 4 JBL 6 1/2 in speakers all around. There still isn't much bass, but the sound is a lot cleaner, and thats what I was aiming for. I don't think I want to take away any trunk room by adding subwoofers or amplifiers.

    I haven't been the best at checking up on this town hall discussion group, but I'm going to try harder...
  • lgoldinlgoldin Posts: 90
    I am planning to replace speakers as well. Could you describe how you've replaced front ones? What was a procedure? Also how do you take of the front panel to replace a stereo?
  • mbbstimsmbbstims Posts: 16
    Hi Folks,I'm new to the message center.I love to talk autos.

    Anyway,this is my dilemma: I have decided I am going to purchase a new Nissan Sentra or Toyota Corolla next Spring.I like to start doing my homework early.I have already spent many hours online reading about the Toyotas and Nissans.At this point I am leaning toward the Nissan because I have read that it is a dependable car,I like the styling and the price is right.(I think the Toyotas like the Hondas are a bit over priced.)I like the XE because I don't go for power options when I buy.The big question I have is how long can I expect the Nissan engine to last?I am always hearing how Toyotas seem to run forever,What about Nissans? help please!
  • narenjinarenji Posts: 161
    Well, I've replaced speakers in my 93 Mazda MX6 and they were very straight-forward. I saw the directions provided by Crutchfield that somebody scanned in... here's the address:

    Everything kinda looks involved in the Sentra. To remove the head unit, you have to partially disassemble the center dash. To replace the front speakers, you have to take apart the interior door frame. To replace the rear speakers, you have to take apart the rear deck.

    It can be done, but to me, it looked complicated, and people on the b15 sentra discussion board (the discussion board address is: ) were saying that they broke a few retaining clips trying to pry out all the panels. I got a package deal for my system from a local audio shop, and installation was included. The install was pretty cleanly done, and the system sounds clean. You're welcome to take a look at those direction sheets and see how and if you can handle it. If you're just going to upgrade two speakers then it might be worthwhile to attempt the installation on your own, but if you want to do the whole system, I would save some time and grief and just have the store do it.

    In my MX6, the head unit just slides out of the dash, the rear speaker screws are under the grilles that just pop off. The front speakers are more involved, just like the sentra- you have to take the door frame off. Good luck, and keep us posted how and what you do.

  • kbd2000kbd2000 Posts: 1
    Just signed on to the message center, I own a 2000 Nissan Sentra GXE. The information
    from everyone's posts has helped a great deal. Just had my windows tinted about a week
    ago, and so far I have not seen any problem with the back window peeling. I paid just a
    little over $130, which is a pretty decent chunk of change, but it was well worth it. Make
    certain that where ever you take your car to have it done, that they have a guarantee on
    the work. The place that did mine took their time and it looks great. Of course, I will keep
    my eye on it, because I too have heard of problems with the back window. Hope this
  • Hey gserep1, you seem to know what you are talking about. Can you please Tell my why my Friends 95 200SX-SER's oil filter is located on the upper left side of the engine block instead of on the bottom of the engined block just above the oil pan like mine? I have a 01 Sentra SE. Thanks.
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