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Nissan Sentra 2006 and earlier

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  • chubydoochubydoo Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 nissan sentra SE 2.0 with 18,000 miles and got in to a front end right side accident took the car to a body shop and when the work was done the car did not want to start . seems like this problem exist on most of this nissans because i work as an automobile electronic technitian as a surprice came to the shop another 2001 nissan sentra GXE 1.8 but this one had never been in an accident i follow most of the signals from the sensors to the computer and register OK it seems that the computer was dead for no reason the shop got a rebuilt computer from some miami company and then send the car to the dealer for reprograming so it will reconise the anty thef system it works but the car lacks acceleration and performance i pesonaly think that a recall should be call on this particular vehicle because of too much complaint on the same issue .thanks :confuse:
  • minivan561minivan561 Posts: 23
    Hi All,

    I have a 1996 Sentra GXE with 114K miles. During moderate acceleration, the battery light goes on. During steady speeds below 55mph, the battery light stays off - but at speeds above 55mph, the battery light comes on.

    With the car in park and engine running, I attached a voltmeter and got the following readings:
    1. At idle, the voltage was 13.5 V
    2. At moderate rpm's, voltage was about 13.5 V
    3. When rpms are increased and just before the battery light comes on, the voltage drops to 12.2 V. It is also 12.2 V while the battery light is on.

    I checked the fuses, electrical connections, and belt tension and they all seem good.

    Can an alternator fail with the above symptoms - good at low rpm's and bad at higher rpm's?

    Thanks for any input.
  • illsmilezillsmilez Posts: 1
    Nismo is good if you want to keep your warrenty for your joint, but the parts are going to be governed. For good prices on parts check tunermarket.com, importrp.com, or 9secondracing.com. They heve some good deals. I have a 02 spec-v and all i've done is a installed an injen rd series cold air intake and a greddy evo cat-back and im running14's.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Sounds to me like a screwy voltage regulator. You may be able to buy this separately, but most are integrated with the alternator and require the entire unit to be replaced. Either way, the alternator isn't putting out the proper voltage at higher rpms so I would suggest you go ahead and replace it. Alternators in general normally last between 110-160k so you got a decent life out of it.
  • sara7sara7 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a new 2005 1.8S Sentra and financed part of it. After signing the loan application, I realized that the cash price of the vehicle was $595 more than the agreed price. The finance manager gave me the explanation that this charge is added onto all vehicles that are financed. Something just doesn't sound right to me. I've been doing a lot of research but haven't found much information about this. Has anyone else besides me come across a similar situation?? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • speak1954speak1954 Posts: 1
    Recently while applying the brakes my car just cut off, all the engine lights came on and then my auto door locks would not work for a day or two. Prior to this while driving, my CD player would just cut out in spots, just for a second, I thought at the time it was the CD(it was a copy) Everything was back to normal, then today after driving for around 10 minutes I applied the brake to turn into a parking lot and my car cut off, all engine lights came on? I cranked it up with no problem, just freaked me out. (Note.....both times I had on the AC, Headlights, CD Player.) Ok, so I started home and the OD light came on when I applied the brakes and my CD player stopped for a second then started again.
    I read about the recall for the engine sensor, but my VIN # is not on the list.
    The only repairs I have had lately are all 4 brake pads replaced, I tried to save some money so my boyfriend did the repairs.
    Any correlation between the brakes and the engine stalling?

    My car only has 26,000 miles on it, even thought it is a 2001.
    Anyone had a similar experience?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Don't worry. Your bf didn't screw up your car. There is no correlation between the brake pads being replaced and your engine cutting off. You have some kind of electrical problem going on. Either the crankshaft sensor or the mass airflow sensor is bad, your tranny's torque converter isn't unlocking when slowing down and thus bogs the engine, or some other funky electrical problem is going on. Good luck!
  • minivan561minivan561 Posts: 23
    Thanks. I took it to Advanced Auto Parts over the weekend. The guy tested it and said it was only outputing 9A when about 14A was needed.

    Anyway, I replaced the alternator and everything runs good. With A/C and lights on, I still got 14V across the battery terminals.
  • flasentraflasentra Posts: 7
    Has anyone else had a problem with their 2000 Nissan Sentra's air conditioner where it is sort of ``stuck'' in the heat mode?

    The other day when I was trying to turn the a/c down while driving, I accidentally turned it too far, all the way up to heat. When I turned it back to cool, it remained stuck with the heat coming out of the vents at full force. I pulled the knob off, thinking it was broken, but it works fine, so its not a simple broken knob issue. Even with the the fan and a/c off and the dial on the coolest, heat pours out as if the heat was still on and the fan at full blast.

    I have an appointment on Saturday to have it checked out but the mechanic had never heard of this happening before either. I'm just curious if anyone else has had this and what the result was? .... it's a little annoying that they will charge $89 just to look at it, and living in Florida I just can't ignore it. It would be one thing if the air was not blowing cold or the a/c failed to work, but blowing in hot air in 90 plus temps just doesn't cut it.
  • tanyagtanyag Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Sentra and the horn died slowly over the past few months. It started by becoming weak, then it would work on and off, now it doesnt work at all. I checked the fuses and they are fine. My father checked it out, but couldnt seem to find the horn under the hood! Would anyone be able to describe where it would be? Thanks!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    The temb knob controls a cable which in turn controls a heater valve. More then likely, the cable stretched or broke, thus not allowing you to shut the heater valve. It happens.
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Posts: 854
    I got a 2005 1.8s with SPecial Edition package for $15500, before adding the rebates. I got the $1500 with 2% APR. They are dealing on these and the Spec Ed package is bargain. The disount from the sticker made it virtually free.
  • cc7400cc7400 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    At the beginning of May we bought a Sentra 1.8S, auto, w/o ABS.
    Last week, after about 1400 miles, my wife and I were driving on the highway
    at about 75mph; she tried to break gently reduce her speed because there was
    a slower car in front of us, when the brakes locked and the car stopped very abruptly.
    We were lucky that nobody rear-ended us. We went to the dealer, and he said there
    is nothing wrong with the brakes. Last week, my wife was driving the car on a street
    at about 30mph, when she had to break and the same thing happened. In both cases, we didn't slam the brakes, yet they locked Did anybody
    hear about such problems w/ the Sentra ?
  • You were luckier than me, my cd got stuck and never played again. I pulled the radio out, disassembled the radio, and discovered that a spring had come loose from the top of the CD holder. That is the weird clicking noise you are hearing, the CD is trying to eject, but that spring is gone, and the holder will not pop up to release your CD. I went aftermarket and got a Pioneer supertuner, and after a few mods, got it to fit. Best bet is if its under warranty, get them to replace it, or go to ebay and get one.
  • When you finance a vehicle, the finance company buys your contract from the dealer for a disounted amount.For example, if you buy a car and finance $10,000, the finance company will buy that contract from the dealer for $9,500 While these fees vary widely from state to state, dealer to dealer, and credit score to credit score, what it sounds like in your situation is that the dealer is passing that fee over and above the negotiated price. Most just bury it into the sticker price. Thats also why you can always get a better price paying cash.
  • I had a 93 nissan truck that did the same thing, I am not sure if it is the same design, but if it is, the temp control lever has disconnected from the cable. If you remove the control panel from your dashboard enough to get behind it, you should be able to reconnect the cable. If you had the same problem i did, it was stuck, you pulled really, really hard, and then it moved easier than it ever had. If thats the case, its just a matter of popping that cable back on. I think it took about 10 minutes, and all i needed once i got behind the control panel was a pair of pliers to reconnect the cable. I just never took the heat all the way over after that, and it never was an issue again.

    By the way, on my truck it was a Horizontal control panel, not a clockwise panel.
    Hope that helped
  • j2thomasj2thomas Posts: 25
    TomCat, We just bought the 1.8 S, with the Special package, auto, sun roof, ABS, side airbags, mats, filter and mudflaps for an out the door price of $15,500, ($250 over invoice - $2500 rebate + 7% tax, 32.50 title and registraction). One of the easiest purchases we've ever made. The sticker was $18090.
  • smokedhensmokedhen Posts: 13
    hi,
    AHHHHHMy key is stuck in the ignition. What can I do to take the key out? please help out this newbie!
  • famfamfamfam Posts: 1
    We have a 2001 Sentra, basic model, with about 53K miles. My husband has had at least 4 flat tires, 3 of which were in the same location (driver side, rear tire). He's not a particularly hard driver, has tires rotated, etc., so it seems rather "coincidental" (?) that he has had 3 in the same location - at least 2 of which started with steering vibration, especially when braking, but the tires appeared fine. Has anyone else had similar problems?
  • belle4331belle4331 Posts: 3
    Thanks Ingtonge18! I took the car back to the mechanic and he said I had a bad build up of carbon deposits. He suggested an induction and intake flush. The car runs better since I had the flush. :)
  • belle4331belle4331 Posts: 3
    I fix one problem and another one appears. Now my air conditioning and my car will not run at the same time. When I turn on the air conditioning on the lowest setting and drive for five minutes or so and stop at a light my car starts shaking like it is about to cut out. I've always turned off the air and the car would stop shaking. Today I wanted to see if it would cut off and it did. Help? :cry:
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    We've had no a/c for the past 1 1/2 weeks basically. It works weakly in the morning and when the sun goes down, but only hot air during the daytime. Nissan said the part we need is on back order. A very nice car that has nickled and dimed us this past year. Hopefully tomorrow, our new Mazda3 s will get to the dealership and we'll say a goodbye to our '01 Altima GXE Ltd. Edition. We really did like our Alty, but with 80k miles fast approaching, it's just not running properly. The Mazda is nice, but our Alty really is the perfect car for us...when it's working.
    It's been a nice 4 1/2 year run, but it's time to move on. Hope everyone has better luck than we did. Good luck guys...we're zoom zooming outta here!

    The Sandman :sick:
  • Hello, I'm new here and this is my first post. I came across looking for help. My 2001 Sentra SE (2000cc, 5speed) has a problem. Service engine soon light come on about a week ago, I then put a chevron injection cleaner in the tank, Vpower from shell and went to milwaukee from chicago and after I got back in the car, the light went off. It came back the next day. Today I drove on highway again for short period of time, it went off again. I'm sure by the time I get home tonight, it will be back on. What can cause this to happen? There is no changes in driving performance. Thank you.
  • teecee1teecee1 Posts: 4
    I have a similar problem with my Sentra....About every 10th time I go to start it, it just won't start...No sounds, no clicks, nothing...It is not the starter, or the battery, or fuses...If I push it forward (doesn't work backwards) about 10-15 feet and put it back in "park" and try again, it usually starts....It has been in the shop a number of times and the mechanic cannot figure it out....any suggestions?
  • teecee1teecee1 Posts: 4
    If anyone is having an oil stick/dipstick problem with their Sentra, go to www.broomeman.com and search for the Sentra. There are pages and pages of feedback and great suggestions for remedying the problem. I used the crazy glue on the pencil solution, it worked perfectly and saved about $200.
  • teecee1teecee1 Posts: 4
    I hate my Nissan Sentra too!!! The car is a repair nightmare....but on a more positive note, if you are still having problems with your gas pedal sticking, have the throttle plate cleaned every few oil changes and that should resolve it. It has for me. Good luck.....
  • dhakimdhakim Posts: 1
    Randomly my AC/Heat knob only functions on the highest level (4). This means I can only have the AC or heat blasting and cannot have it on any other setting, as they all are the same as being "off". Any suggestions? I'm either freezing or sweating!
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    Check the neutral safety switch.
  • teecee1teecee1 Posts: 4
    Thanks!!!!
  • i'm a teenager, looking for a car. i want to be able to "fix it up" i'm into the street racing style and i thought of getting a used sentra. i'm thinkin about the 96-98 years. should i keep on with this or am i just wasting my time thinking about it???
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