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Nissan Sentra 2006 and earlier

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Comments

  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,842
    NISMO is Nissan aftermarket. Try NISMO.
  • 2000 Sentra starts but will not stay running?
    Starts everytime, runs a couple of minutes then dies. Everything else seems fine.

    Is the fuel pump in the tank?
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    Just called Nissan about the recalls I found online and luckily none affect my car. Am truly happy about that!

    The Sandman :)
  • cgera713cgera713 Posts: 1
    My 2004 had the EXACT same problem as your does. I've been forced to use a portable CD player hooked to my Auxillary input to hear CDs. Annoyed to say the least. Problem arose with a regular CD for me. Would like to get an aftermarket stereo installed but with that wierd design...
  • valennievalennie Posts: 1
    Is there something in the manual that says there is an 8 year, 80,000 mile warranty on the 01 Nissan Sentra GXE? I have the same problem as yours but I spent more on those O2 sensors and have gone to different shops. I want to try another dealership and find out if they are going to replace mine like yours.

    Thanks for the information.
  • razdigitalrazdigital Posts: 1
    Hey guys need your input, I am buying a Nissan Sentra 1.8s automatic with the special edition package, which has an invoice price of $15,615(according to Carsdirect). Haven't asked for their invoice report yet.

    The person at the dealership told me they would let have with the walkout price of $14000. Is this a good deal or should I haggle some more? I want the cheapest price I can get for this vehicle.

    BTW: there is also a $2500 cash back if you pay cash up front or a $1500 cash back if you finance. The thing is I don't know if the prices are incorporated into the price they told me of $14K; need your input please.
  • samasama Posts: 1
    I had the same problem which was going on for a while till it finally stopped and wouldn't start again. It stopped of all places a block away from a Nissan dealer and $1,500 later the problem was solved. The check engine light was off and on intermittently and I needed a smog certificate for registration. Here's what Nissan did:
    Replace mass air flow module, strainer fuel, fuel pump assy and in my opinion a customer pump as well. This included a smog certificate. After 50 miles the check engine light came back on. I brought it back and they said it would need a catalytic converter (750.00) I did not have it done the engine light has been on for about 30,000 miles and still runs except for a sticky accelerator pedal. I'm not sure what will happen if I keep running it that way. Anyone have any ideas?
  • afgirl1028afgirl1028 Posts: 1
    Someone please help!!!

    #1 - In Dec '04 I took my 2000 GXE into a dealership (I know... $$$) for repairs... I wanted it done WELL. Problems: acceleration in 1st gear was SLOW, real slow until I reached ~3000 RPM. The check engine light was on and the diagnostic was Low Fuel Grade. Fix: cleaned the fuel injection system of carbon build-up. That's what they did at least. I didn't notice vast improvements.

    Now... acceleration is EVEN SLOWER in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd!!! Usually just after it has been sitting for a few hours. So, I took it in to a mechanic (not a dealership) and the diagnostic reads the same (c.e. light still on, never went off). Now, this mechanic is saying the fuel filter has never been changed (although I'd requested it done during oil changes... how am I to know if they did or didn't) because of the fact that the filter is IN the FUEL PUMP. Now... is this true? Because I'm about to be charged for a whole new fuel pump in order to fix this... AGAIN!!!

    Since this is the worst, most pricey problem... I'll leave it at this for now. But there are 2 more problems I'll list later. Argh!!! What is wrong with my poor Nina?!?!?!? That's her name... :)

    :sick:
  • belle4331belle4331 Posts: 3
    My 1996 Nissan Sentra will start but dies. If I keep my foot on the accelerator then the engine will run take my foot off and the engine dies. If I keep my foot on the accelerator long enough the engine will remain on. The engine will also remain on if I let the car sit for a few hours.

    The last time my Sentra would not start I had it towed. My car sat on the Nissan shop lot for almost 24 hours before they looked at it. I was told they could not find anything wrong with my car.

    One month later I am having the same problem. After letting my car sit for seven hours it started right up and the engine remained on.

    Does anyone know what could be the problem? :confuse:

    Also, my Sentra has 189,000 miles.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    It sounds to me like a bad fuel pressure regulator or a dying fuel pump. It could also be a failing distributor which is a common problem on Nissans of this vintage.
  • chubydoochubydoo Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 nissan sentra SE 2.0 with 18,000 miles and got in to a front end right side accident took the car to a body shop and when the work was done the car did not want to start . seems like this problem exist on most of this nissans because i work as an automobile electronic technitian as a surprice came to the shop another 2001 nissan sentra GXE 1.8 but this one had never been in an accident i follow most of the signals from the sensors to the computer and register OK it seems that the computer was dead for no reason the shop got a rebuilt computer from some miami company and then send the car to the dealer for reprograming so it will reconise the anty thef system it works but the car lacks acceleration and performance i pesonaly think that a recall should be call on this particular vehicle because of too much complaint on the same issue .thanks :confuse:
  • minivan561minivan561 Posts: 23
    Hi All,

    I have a 1996 Sentra GXE with 114K miles. During moderate acceleration, the battery light goes on. During steady speeds below 55mph, the battery light stays off - but at speeds above 55mph, the battery light comes on.

    With the car in park and engine running, I attached a voltmeter and got the following readings:
    1. At idle, the voltage was 13.5 V
    2. At moderate rpm's, voltage was about 13.5 V
    3. When rpms are increased and just before the battery light comes on, the voltage drops to 12.2 V. It is also 12.2 V while the battery light is on.

    I checked the fuses, electrical connections, and belt tension and they all seem good.

    Can an alternator fail with the above symptoms - good at low rpm's and bad at higher rpm's?

    Thanks for any input.
  • illsmilezillsmilez Posts: 1
    Nismo is good if you want to keep your warrenty for your joint, but the parts are going to be governed. For good prices on parts check tunermarket.com, importrp.com, or 9secondracing.com. They heve some good deals. I have a 02 spec-v and all i've done is a installed an injen rd series cold air intake and a greddy evo cat-back and im running14's.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Sounds to me like a screwy voltage regulator. You may be able to buy this separately, but most are integrated with the alternator and require the entire unit to be replaced. Either way, the alternator isn't putting out the proper voltage at higher rpms so I would suggest you go ahead and replace it. Alternators in general normally last between 110-160k so you got a decent life out of it.
  • sara7sara7 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a new 2005 1.8S Sentra and financed part of it. After signing the loan application, I realized that the cash price of the vehicle was $595 more than the agreed price. The finance manager gave me the explanation that this charge is added onto all vehicles that are financed. Something just doesn't sound right to me. I've been doing a lot of research but haven't found much information about this. Has anyone else besides me come across a similar situation?? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • speak1954speak1954 Posts: 1
    Recently while applying the brakes my car just cut off, all the engine lights came on and then my auto door locks would not work for a day or two. Prior to this while driving, my CD player would just cut out in spots, just for a second, I thought at the time it was the CD(it was a copy) Everything was back to normal, then today after driving for around 10 minutes I applied the brake to turn into a parking lot and my car cut off, all engine lights came on? I cranked it up with no problem, just freaked me out. (Note.....both times I had on the AC, Headlights, CD Player.) Ok, so I started home and the OD light came on when I applied the brakes and my CD player stopped for a second then started again.
    I read about the recall for the engine sensor, but my VIN # is not on the list.
    The only repairs I have had lately are all 4 brake pads replaced, I tried to save some money so my boyfriend did the repairs.
    Any correlation between the brakes and the engine stalling?

    My car only has 26,000 miles on it, even thought it is a 2001.
    Anyone had a similar experience?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Don't worry. Your bf didn't screw up your car. There is no correlation between the brake pads being replaced and your engine cutting off. You have some kind of electrical problem going on. Either the crankshaft sensor or the mass airflow sensor is bad, your tranny's torque converter isn't unlocking when slowing down and thus bogs the engine, or some other funky electrical problem is going on. Good luck!
  • minivan561minivan561 Posts: 23
    Thanks. I took it to Advanced Auto Parts over the weekend. The guy tested it and said it was only outputing 9A when about 14A was needed.

    Anyway, I replaced the alternator and everything runs good. With A/C and lights on, I still got 14V across the battery terminals.
  • flasentraflasentra Posts: 7
    Has anyone else had a problem with their 2000 Nissan Sentra's air conditioner where it is sort of ``stuck'' in the heat mode?

    The other day when I was trying to turn the a/c down while driving, I accidentally turned it too far, all the way up to heat. When I turned it back to cool, it remained stuck with the heat coming out of the vents at full force. I pulled the knob off, thinking it was broken, but it works fine, so its not a simple broken knob issue. Even with the the fan and a/c off and the dial on the coolest, heat pours out as if the heat was still on and the fan at full blast.

    I have an appointment on Saturday to have it checked out but the mechanic had never heard of this happening before either. I'm just curious if anyone else has had this and what the result was? .... it's a little annoying that they will charge $89 just to look at it, and living in Florida I just can't ignore it. It would be one thing if the air was not blowing cold or the a/c failed to work, but blowing in hot air in 90 plus temps just doesn't cut it.
  • tanyagtanyag Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Sentra and the horn died slowly over the past few months. It started by becoming weak, then it would work on and off, now it doesnt work at all. I checked the fuses and they are fine. My father checked it out, but couldnt seem to find the horn under the hood! Would anyone be able to describe where it would be? Thanks!
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