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Older Acura TLs

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  • blexv6blexv6 Posts: 9
    Let me just say I am new to this site and have scrolled through this discussion page. I presently have a 1998 Accord EXV6 which is a great car. I would like to mention this vehicle does have Heated seats and mirrors, despite what some posters advised. Another item I wish to comment on is power antennas as opposed to the printed ones you
    now get in the TL and Accord. I had a power antenna on my 1992 Accord and hated it as it became bent, would not detract, was brittle. I have found that the reception on the printed rear glass is quite good for and does not get damaged. Finally I will be getting an Acura TLS in the next year. I expect this vehicle will look, interior wise just like the CLS. I have seen the CLS and its got great perforated leather seats and steering wheel, 6 in dash cd player, I believe memory seats ( which is great because my wife is short and I am tall, and she never puts the seat back and I always rack my knees on the steering wheel ), a nicer "S" badge sifter and the last but not least, a 260 hp engine. Wow and I thought my 200 hp Accord was quick. I definately think I can wait for this vehicle. Thanks for all the interesting info. on this forum.
  • Has anyone heard if the 2002 TL or TL-S will have side curtain air bags for head protection in the event of a side impact? The low priced 2001 Dodge Stratus and 2001 Saturn, to name a few of the cheaper cars, have them available as an option (for about $400) and some of the more expensive cars include them as standard equipment. I think that any car in the $30,000 price range should include this item in the base price. On another topic, I believe that the recommended replacement interval for the timing belt on the TL and CL is 105,000 miles, but the warranty is only for 60,000 miles. If you are following the maintenance schedule to the 'T' and your timing belt breaks at say 75,000 miles are you screwed, or will Acura replace it for free? If Acura is telling us that we don't have to replace anything inside the engine for 100,000 miles shouldn't they have a 100,000 mile power train warranty (like Volkswagen, or Hyundai?)
  • me8pme8p Posts: 1
    I got a 96 3.2TL
    Have a problem with a mildewy smell from the A/C. I've got the dealer to Friggyfresh it several times and that works 4 a bit, but it comes back. They said they will open up the A/C and clean it out for C$800 8( and it may still come back in a year.

    Another guy said change the A/C filter...

    Any ideas?
  • Bjohnson71 & Hunter001-------My mods. are wheel locks, caliper paint ( Folia Tec), wood trim on gauge cluster, winter floor mats,Acura Aero Package,1 coat Meguiars #7 & 5 coats of Meguiars#26. Waiting for spring to continue.What tires did you install Hunter001?
  • joelhejoelhe Posts: 22
    How do you calibrate the outside thermometer in a TL? I've seen a prodedure dfor doing this somewhere, but can't find it. Mine reads 2 degrees high.

    Joel
  • inkyinky Posts: 370
    Man, the local dealer is advertising his many, many TLs for $26,499. This is a great deal. Anyone bought one for less?
    INKY
  • Sorry for the previous blank post - I hit Enter instead of Tab when going from the Title bar to the message window.

    To shonie and anyone else considering a lease: Go to www.carbuyingtips.com and check out the section on leasing. You will find lots of good info/advice, and there is a lease calculator spreadsheet that you can download and use for free, as well as links to software you can buy if you prefer. It seems that a lot of people get caught up in the monthly payment, not the total dollar amount they shell out over the term of the lease. Often times they entice you with a low monthly payment, but they are screwing you behind the scenes in other ways that you aren't even aware of. My advice is to check out the website, download the spreadsheet, run the numbers yourself, then go get the deal you really wanted.
  • I had the same problem with my 90 Accord. It seems to be a common thing here in South Florida and this is what my mechanic told me and it worked:

    Turn off your A/C, and turn on your heat on Full and turn on the fan on full. Make sure the system is on re-condition, to increase the heat level to its maximum. Open the windows to let out the moisture build up, since you have re-condition on, and you would just be re-using moist air. (Using fresh air, would just lower the potential power of the heat inside the vents, and might not kill as much mold, since the goal is to have as much heat INSIDE the VENTS, not necessarily inside the car itself.) Rotate using the floor vents, and the main vents on different trips. Eventually the mold growing in your vents will die off. Do not use your A/C when you are doing this "cleaning" process for at least 1 week. If the smell hasn't gone away after a week, keep the heat on as long as you can bear it, you may just have tons of mold in your vents.

    It works for about 1 year until the mold grows back, which is a very natural process for air conditioners, especially if you live in a hot+humid area, and you never use your heater.

    You can do it yourself next year, and it doesn't cost you anything, and you'll save a trip to the dealer.
  • kkuetkkuet Posts: 28
    i'm in michigan and suburban acura in novi is advertising for the same price. but you can still negotiate down. where are you at?
  • inkyinky Posts: 370
    Well, I am not a buyer. I had a 00 TL which I bought for $28,000 when they were hot. Sold it one year latter for $26,250. I am glad I sold it before the prices stated to slide. It would go for about $24k today. If you get one for much less than $26,500 I would be surprised. Good luck and let us know.
    INKY
  • hunter001hunter001 Posts: 851
    >Bjohnson71 & Hunter001-------My mods. are wheel >locks, caliper paint ( Folia Tec), wood trim on >gauge cluster, winter floor mats,Acura Aero >Package,1 coat Meguiars #7 & 5 coats of >Meguiars#26. Waiting for spring to continue.What >tires did you install Hunter001?

    Okay ! My "mods" also include the Burlwood shift knob, the wheel locks and floor mats that was purchased at the time of buying the car....also have clayed my car and put in a couple of coats of Zymol (the one you get in auto stores)....waiting for spring for re-waxing...

    The tires that I replaced my OEM TL tires with, is Michelin Pilot 225/55-ZR16 ZGT Z4 Ultra-high performance All seasons. Basically there is only a single tire in the OEM tire size (205/60R16) that comes in a high performance designation - Bridgestone RE92.

    There were lots of 205/55R16 tires available but they would not maintain the stock tire/wheel combos' diameter - thus throwing you odometer and speedometer off. The 225/55-ZR16s would maintain the Stock tire/wheel combo diameter perfectly...and hence I went in for it. The performance difference vs the stock tires in both accelerating and stopping is like night and day....moreover, the 225s matches the car perfectly and do not "stick-out" of the car, which was a priority for me...

    Later...AH
  • Has anyone been successful having the dealer swap out for better performing tires e. 225/55zr/16's? Or, is it entirely the owner's cost for a new set of tires? Can you trade in the stock tires at some reduction in price for the new tire set? And are we sure that the recommended better performing tires are a true fit for the TL? Is there a source I can verify,even though I believe what you are saying--just want to make sure... Thanks alot.

    Have not purchased my TL yet, but will in March 2001 and am looking forward to it. If anyone buys one in the chic ago area let me know your price and dealer....
  • Could not find tire data that you gave. Checked Tire rack and Michelin sites and up with
    Michelin Pilot XGT V4/Z4 - is this correct or ....?
    How and where did you do your research? It seems very thorough. I'll look into this as a possible upgrade.
    Your information may also help lougheed2.
  • hunter001hunter001 Posts: 851
    The tire I intended was indeed Michelin Pilot 225/55-ZR-16 XGT Z4s and not "ZGT Z4s". Basically you can go into www.michelin.com and do a tire size check. Almost all tire companies have a vehicle/tire-size fitment checking tool within their site. On the stock rims, Michelin (who manufactures the 3.2 TLs' stock tires) recommends 225/55-16s for the Acura 3.2TL, 99 model and onwards (they have not updated the 225/55-16 models with XGT H4 and XGT Z4 on their site yet)....Actually, the XGT H4s come for a lot cheaper than the Z4s and are I believe rated for upto 130mph which I believe is plenty....the XGT V4s do not come in this tire size...But these high-performance tires are a bit noisier than the stock tires even though the braking/accelerating is a lot better (than stock) and the car also feels planted to the ground...the mileage also reduces a bit (by about 1-2mpg)...Michelin also recommends 215/55R16 and 215/60-R16 tires for stock wheels even though they would be "off" from the stock tire/wheel combo by a little....but they would be closer to the stock tire width.


    You could use this as a starting point - http://michelin.tireselector.com/

    http://www.michelin.com/us/eng/tire/catalog/pxgtz4.htm


    But if you go in for a "up-size" in wheels (from the stock 16" to 17"), I would recommend tires in the 215/50-17s which are the closest approximation to the stock diameter (among available tires)....I personally preferred the stock wheels...


    As far as the dealer swapping out the OEM tires for different tires, I believe that depends on the deal you work out with the dealer...since they would also have to purchase the new tires from Michelin tire dealers before swapping...


    Later...AH

  • Sorry to read about above on ACURA-TL.COM site. This happened to me on my 1986 Prelude but after 11 years. The glass installed said that it is known in the auto industry as a "stress fracture" where the cowl & A pillar come together. Mine happened in the winter, when it could possibly be caused by extreme fast temperature change. On a unit only a couple of years old would this not be a warranty item? Worth a try! Good Luck!
  • Thanks for the advice. I think my windshield crack was due to a stone/flying debris hitting it. I did hear the sharp noise but while driving, I did not notice any cracks. The next morning, when I took it out of the garage, I saw the 4-5 inch long crack. Bummer. But life goes on.

    Later...AH
  • I just got an offer in Houston for $28,095 for an '01 3.2 with no nav and a wing. They do not seem to have any "advertising" of "delivery" charges on top of that. Is this a good deal? I wish I could wait a few months because the price is bound to fall when new models are released this year.
  • I have enjoyed reading the messages posted here, very informative. I am close to buying a new car. I live in Northern Calif and would like to know what I should expect to pay for a 00 or 01. I/I nave. Best I can gather $26-27K would be a good price, not counting tax, pic., misc.. Recommend any dealers?

    Although I am leaning toward the AL, I find it difficult not to stop thinking about a new Avalon. Have any of you thrown the Avalon in the mix of cars considered and what was the deciding factors in choosing the AL?

    Thanks
  • raleigh72: $28,095 for an '01 w/out nav is WAY high. Read the other posts on this board...some are quoting prices just above invoice. With the '02 TL/TL-S due out in just over a month, you should be able to negoiate very agressively.

    footfault: unless you're 60+ years old (and/or feel that old), the Avalon shouldn't be a consideration. It's UGLY! Nothing says "I'm old" like the Avalon...well, maybe an Oldsmobile.
  • varmitvarmit Posts: 1,125
    Raleigh72 - I just got a '01 for $26,700 and didn't have to try too hard. The dealer took the offer over the web. My wife wouldn't let me install a spoiler myself, so we had to pay another $600 for that. Still, that's less than the $28K+ that your dealer quoted.

    On a glorious note, we picked up the car last Saturday. We love it. On a not so glorious note, it's already been back to the dealer!!! Turned out to be a bad fuse (no biggie), but they found that the fuse box cover was from a CL. Whazzup with that!?! Anyone else have this happen? Just one of those 'things that makes me go hmmm...'
  • I have a new TL and really like the car, but I am getting a clicking sound from the engine compartment on the firewall, driver's side. May be a speedometer cable but not sure. Ideas??
    Thanks
  • Thanks, phatboy & varmit. I walked away from the dealer Friday after he said $27,500 with no nav and no wing was his best price. They called me back today to offer $27,300 plus they will give a little more on my trade in. This Houston dealer will also give two years free dealer maintenance which ought to be worth around $400 and they do not have any add on fees to smack you with after you make your deal. A fee of $385 or so for "preparation" or some such euphemism seems to be common around here.

    Are the '02 models really due next month or is it just the Type S? I already saw a review somewhere comparing the S to a BMW.
  • Yes, the word on the street is that both the '02 TL and TL-S will be at the dealers in mid-March. Some people who have pre-ordered a TL-S claim their dealer "confirmed" delivery by March 10. However, I guess there could be a number of things that may push the date back a bit.

    If you're not interested in the 260 hp, better handling, larger wheels, and perf'ed leather that will be part of the TL-S, it may be a good choice to buy the '01 TL. The main improvements for the base '02 TL are memory seats and an in-dash 6 CD changer. If those aren't important to you, you'll save big $$ by going with the '01.
  • tomsrtomsr Posts: 325
    I have waited a year and finally got my TL at
    $27197 including wheel locks and mudguards,
    Probably not the best price but a heck of a lot
    better than the $29030 msrp.I have noticed when
    it is sitting in my garage there is a low level
    honking sound coming from somewhere.Any ideas?
    I also have a 98 CL with 50k miles and it is
    still like new.The only problem have had is premature brake lining wear covered under
    warranty.Happy motoring Ya'll.
  • I got my non-nav for $26,600 including destination. I had 3 dealers going back and forth with "final best prices" for about 2 weeks - very painful..... All 3 had different "doc prep fees" or some other nonsense, so ended up asking for an "out the door" price. My deal included wheel locks and some free maintenance. Yes, with the 02s coming soon, they are more willing to deal. About 6 months ago they wouldn't budge off MSRP..

    Almost 3000 miles on it already - love it.
  • I have the same clicking sound on my 2000TL. It comes from a solenoid mounted near the strut tower on the driver's side of the car. It is a black plastic part that has a cylinder shape in the vertical position. There is a wire harness connected to it. The noise is intermittent, but fairly constant when the car is warmed up. According to the dealer who checked it out, it is an emission control solenoid and the clicking is "normal". I don't think so. My mother and my father-in-law both have 2000 TVs and neither of theirs makes the same clicking sound.
    I plan to go back again to the dealer and now that I have your comments I will mention that I am not the only one with this issue. If I get it solved I'll post a follow-up here.
  • I purchased a brand new 2001 Acura 3.2TL in November of 2000 for approximately $30,700 at the Bloomington Acura Subaru dealership in Bloomington, Minnesota. Within the first week of taking it home, I could hear intermittent rattling in the sound system when the radio or CD was playing, often when the cellular phone (Nokia) was near the console. The rattling has increased in volume and frequency over the past 2 ½ months. About two weeks ago, I nearly swerved onto another car on a busy highway because I panicked from hearing a sudden loud explosion of buzzing and rattling and crackling noise coming from the console unit. At the time, my cellular phone was plugged into the cigarette lighter for recharging. The sounds did not stop until I turned off all the controls and yanked the re-charger cord from the cigarette lighter insert. The sounds resumed after I turned the radio back on. My new Acura had approximately 2,500 miles and it was at the Bloomington Acura Subaru Service Center for a week for inspection and possible repairs.

    I have been in contact with the Acura Customer Service HQ and was told they were sending someone to look into the problem. Today, I met again with the service manager and the Acura manufacturer representative, and was later joined by the floor manager. They told me again that the problems I have been experiencing with my new car is not unusual, that the problem was the cellular phone and frequencies out there meshing, that there was nothing wrong with the car. The floor manager, at one point, commented that I should change my lifestyle, that I should not have a cellular phone in my car. The Acura representative said that I should change my driving habits. I asked to leave the car for further inspection and asked them to write me a note of what they had just told me and to provide some documentation of typical problems one might experience having a cell phone in a car. They refused to further look at my car, as they said that there was nothing wrong with it and that they would not provide a documentation trail, and asked me to leave.

    With the Acura manufacturer representative standing beside him, the service manager put his hand on my back side and began shoving me towards the door. I felt intimidated. At that point, as the only woman customer there, I felt physically threatened, as there were other car salesmen hovering. I was on the verge of tears. I was told to get out of the dealership and never come back.

    Please help me as I feel as if I am in a nightmare. My family has driven Hondas and Acuras for the past 20 years. We have at least 5 or 6 six of them right now. I do not think that these problems are representative of Acuras, but I am extremely anxious about the problems with the particular Acura I purchased and how I was treated. I am in the process of filing a complaint with the MN Better Business Bureau. If you have had similar experiences with the type of car (cellular-related?) problems I have described or have any suggestions, please email them to me at lphamx2@yahoo.com or leave a message at 1-888-392-4832, extension 612-416-2800. Please also report similar problems to your BBB, manufacturer and dealership.

    With appreciation,
    Lan
  • I've posted this on Accord vs. TL but I figure more TL owners are at this conference. Thanks.

    I own an Accord and Integra. I do like the TLs a lot. At my Honda dealer, an oil change for any Honda is $14.95 with coupon which is always readily available at their website. At my Acura dealer, an oil change for any Acura $27.95. Does anyone know why other than Acura name?
    My Honda dealer also said that they service Acura automobiles as well. So far I've taken my cars to its dealer (Honda at Honda and Acura at Acura). But I'm tempted to service my Integra at the Honda dealer. (Never again at Firestone. They screwed up my other Accord)
  • I'm having the same clicking noise.
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