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Oldsmobile Alero

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Comments

  • The sound I typically associate with a worn wheel bearing is a shrill whine or humming sound which increases in pitch as you accelerate. We've had to replace two front wheel bearings, and I can't recall hearing a "pop" sound with either of them, just that whine/hum. Also, it starts out fairly quiet, but as time passes, it keeps getting louder and louder.
  • Check the cv joints, I had same problem and replaced the half shafts. Problem solved

    jimbou :)
  • My 2000 GLS is in the dealer for exactly this issue. It took 15 minutes of driving before I could demonstrate to the tech that it was happening. They have had the car for 2 days and are trying to get it to slip for an ext warranty rep. My ext warranty runs out in 2 weeks so I'm crossing fingers they can. The tech seems to feel it is an issue with the first gear. 56000 miles.
  • pipbpipb Posts: 2
    Just bought a 2002 alero. The hazard switch need to be replaced. Took it to a garage and was told that you must remove the dashboard. Anyone done that before. How to proceed..?
  • I think there is a recall on this. I know my daughters 2001 Alero got a recall for it, and I haven't yet responded because I don't want them tearing apart the dash.
    With Oldsmobile no longer around, I'm not sure who you bring it to. My recall notice sent me to a Chevy dealer 30 miles away. Kinda dumb when there are several GM dealers in the local area. I would check with a local dealer that was
    Oldsmobile and see what they say about the recall.

    DC
  • Have any of you bought tires online? I'm considering do that for my daughters 2001. The origanal Goodyears are beat at 25,000 miles. I've read good reviews about Tirerack.com, but haven't decided on a tire yet. Any thoughts?

    DC
  • There was a recall on this. We took our Alero to our local GM service centre, and they replaced the hazard switch free of charge. GM still services our car, even though Oldsmobile is no longer around. As I recall, the notice directed us to another Oldsmobile dealer in the area, but we've always gone to this other service centre; they honoured the recall and did the replacement. Here's an article you can refer to: GM recalls 783,000 cars to replace hazard switch
  • pipbpipb Posts: 2
    HI DC,

    Thanks. I will check this out with the local dealer.

    pipb
  • Same here. My wife's 2000 alero is having this problem. It's at a dealer right now for other problems but looks like it's not gonna be a cheap fix. Of course the extended warranty ran out 2 weeks ago, go figure.
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    Be sure and let us know what they find and the cost. Dealer usually replaces the ignition switch for a few hundred bucks to solve this problem.
  • as far as your HVAC it is a Blower motor resistor i have a 2003 alero and it went out in mine, GOOD LUCK, it is a pain to change it is under the glove box behind the blower motor
  • I need help finding good mods for my 2003 alero i find it hard to sup up cause it is 2.2 and not the 6 cylinder can someone help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might want to stop by the Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification board.
  • UPDATE.

    The dealer tore apart the trannie and found damage. Something about a clutch plate starting to fail. Anyway to the guy who posted the original message your transmission is on its way out. The dealer is replacing mine under my extended warranty. The service tech gave my old transmission maybe 6 to 12 months before it failed totally.
  • Wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what was done to correct it, the warning lights for ABS, Traction Control, Brakes, and Service Vehicle soon all come on. We have had it in twice now to fix this issue and its happened again. This is what they told me they fixed , WIRING AND/OR CONNECTOR - BRAKE SYSTEM/TRACTION CONTROL , the last time and before that HARNESS, WHEEL SPEED SENSOR JUMPER WIRING (ABS) - REAR - B,
  • I am looking to buy a used alero (2000) 2.4 liter, this car has the same problem you are describing, so the guy is willing to sell it really cheap (that is why I am intersted) I was wondering if you could tell me a little more about this problem and possibly the costs involved in fixing it. I was looking at buying this car, trying to resolve the issue and selling it again for alot more $$$. Is this a computer problem in the car or just a matter of nuts and bolts and a new sensor? Also, does the abs then not actually function, or does the light just go on? Please tell me as much as you know about it, anyone else please feel free to contribute as well!! Thanks.
  • My 2000 Alero (81,000) has been making this sound off and on for the past year. The sound is like a clunking sound. It happens after turning and accelerating and also when accelerating from standstill without turning. The 2 dealerships I have taken it to cannot replicate the problem. First time, a Pontiac dealership said pads were worn and replaced them... problem seemed to disappear for awhile. Came back. Back to the same Pontiac delarership... somehow me explaining to the "service advisor," that it clunks when i turn, turned into the mechanic hearing it clunks when i drive over a bumps. So front struts and mounts were replaced. After I drove away from the dealership, within 5 minutes the noise occured again. It happended 2 times on the way back. The mechanic rode with me, but it didn't happen again. A few months go by... seemed to have disappeared. Then 2 weeks ago, when raining and 2 other people in the car, it happened constantly after turning and accelerating and accelerating in a straight line. A friend who has never experienced it was scared. After a week of not driving it, took it to a Chevrolet dealership 3 blocks me. They could not replicate the problem. I also had mentioned to them that with just sitting in the car while running, turning the wheel left or right, there was a faint sound and feel when the wheel is turned back to the center. I didn't know if i was opening a new can of worns or trying to be helpful. They diagnosed that as being worn steering gear and worn intermedant shaft... quote $1600. They said since they could not replicate the noise/ clunk I was talking about, they couldn't say if spending the $1600 would fix it. After leavingt he Chevy dealership it did it down the road... has been doing it daily, but not every turn or accleration. It's not just the clunking sound, you can feel it in the body. My front passenger can feel and hear it. You don't feel it in the steering wheel. I've read previous posts that had mentioned the struts, which were replaced for about $1200 (the car now feels more substantial over uneven roads). Could it be the CV joints? Anyone have any ideas. Oh, there's an Olds dealership which is much further away then the rest, that'll probably end up taking it to.
  • I had to replace the ignition switch and tumbler on a 2001 Olds Alero and now the car will not start and the security light is on!

    How do I reset the system to recongize the new switch???

    Thanks,
    Dave
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    There are several posts a few pages back addressing security issues; if you do a search for "security" in this forum, you'll find lots of posts addressing this problem. Reading some of those posts, I have a feeling you may have to take it in and have a service centre reset the system. Here's what our owner's manual says about the Passlock system:

    If the engine stalls and the SECURITY light flashes, wait until the light stops flashing before trying to restart the engine. Remember to release the key from START as soon as the engine starts.

    If the engine is running and the SECURITY light comes on, you will be able to restart the engine if you turn the engine off. However, your Passlock system is not working properly and must be serviced by your dealer. Your vehicle is not protected by Passlock at this time. You may also want to check the fuse. See your dealer for service.
  • My 2000 Alero (3.4L V6, 98,500mi) is acting strange. While I was driving with the cruise set on 72, the RPM gauge went from around 2500 to less than 1000, and the cruise shut off (obviously). When I pressed the accelerator, absolutely nothing happened. At first I thought the transmission had slipped or something, but the engine didn't rev up (and the RPM gauge needle didn't move) when I pressed the gas pedal. The car was completely unresponsive, but the engine did not shut off. No warning lights came on at all. So, as I am gradually slowing down, I pulled to the side of the road. I decided to try the gas pedal one more time (after pressing it several times to no avail), and the car decided that it wanted to go. I was able to accelerate like nothing had happened. Then after about 30 miles, it did it again, several more times. On the third time, I slowed to a complete stop, and the engine died this time. It took 3 tries to get it to crank. I went a few more miles, and the engine felt like it was misfiring or something (it was really rough). The car died again, and I had to sit there for a few minutes before it would crank again.

    Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how'd you fix it? I've had several mechanics tell me that it was really weird that the engine did not shut off (or at least shut off right away...it only shut off on me twice, but I had to pull to the side of the road about 6 times total). Could it be electrical or fuel related? Thanks!
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