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Oldsmobile Alero

1838486888999

Comments

  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    You need blower motor resistor part #89018413. It's about $13 from gmpartsdirect.com. My guess is that when the dealer fixed it the first time he just used whatever blower motor resistor that was in stock and it was the older one that fails. It's not too hard to change yourself. It's by the blower motor in the passenger footwell. Remove plastic cover with 9/32 " socket (I think). Remove electrical connector from blower motor resistor board. Remove blower motor resistor board. It is secured by 2 - 7/32" screws (I think). These 2 are a little hard to get out. It will take a small 1/4" drive ratchet set or small box wrench. Reverse the procedure to install the new one.
    As far as the intake manifold gasket goes, it went at 5 years, 55,000 miles on my 2000. They all fail at different times but they all do fail. I am surprised you made it to 80,000. I called Oldsmobile Customer Satisfaction (yes they are still there) and they sent me a check for 1/2 of the $1000 repair bill. This amount varies. GM dealer must diagnose problem before they can help. If you still have a genuine Oldsmobile in your area and you have been having your car serviced there, the rep at the satisfaction line will negotiate with the dealer and may even cover 100% of the repair, according to the rep I dealt with. I had mine done at a Pontiac dealer so the satisfaction rep said 50% was it. Local guy only wanted $600 for the intake gasket repair, so the savings is not really that great with the 50% refund when the dealer charges $1000.
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Posts: 300
    Hey, at least you got GM to cover at least part of it. When the problem happened on my Malibu, it was $750 out of pocket that I didn't get any help with. I'm actually baffled that, after your warranty was up, they gave you a check :surprise:

    - Jeremy
  • Me again....
    I posted a msg concerning my fuel gauge jumping around and the majority or responces mentioned that it was probably my fuel sensor. Sounds good to me but here is a new thing wrong.
    The other day I was sitting in my Alero and opened my door and the lights started to blink, the cabin light, milage gauge, radio light, and hazards all started to blink on and off. It lasted about 20 seconds then stopped. then it has continues to happen everytime i open the door.
    Question for you guys is, Whats going on? Is it expensive to fix? Also before I replace to fuel sensor for the original problem is it possible that the fuel sensor may be acting up for the same reason all the lights are blinking on and off?
    Could really use you help.
    I really appreciate you all.
    Thank you
    Wes
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Posts: 300
    First and foremost, let me say: Creepy....

    Anyway, one time I had a weird issue with my car where the red 'BRAKE' light and the red seat belt light stayed on even after I shut my car off. I had pulled up on the brake and released my seat belt before I shut the car off, then when I came back to my car about an hour later, both of lights were still on...pretty screwy. It's never happened since then, but I have heard of other people having similar issues to yours and mine, but no fix yet.

    Jeremy
  • isseyvooisseyvoo Posts: 120
    Do any of you with the 5 sp. transmission ever find it difficult to shift into 2nd gear? I have an '01 with 20K mostly highway miles on it. (Lately it has become my primary car and has gotten more local driving.) On several occasions, I have been unable on the first try to get a clean shift into 2nd gear. Once when reving the engine pretty high to execute a quick pass on the right, 2nd wouldn't engage at all after several frantic attempts and I was forced to lug it in 3rd to get going. I have been driving standard shift for the last 20 years and have never had this problem before. Are there any known issues with this transmission? Shall I just consider it the nature of the beast, or would you recommend I get it checked out?
  • expwymanexpwyman Posts: 25
    Hi everyone. I have a 2004 Alero GLS (collector's edition, actually), and I saw an XM add-on kit for GM Class II radios. Does anyone know if the radio I have is Class II / XM-ready? I have CD and cassette on mine. I'm guessing it is since one of the options on this car was XM, but my car didn't have it installed. Cheers!
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    Perhaps your gauge cluster is malfunctioning? I have no idea if that's the problem, or how expensive a repair it would be, but this is the point where I would take it into the GM service centre to see what they can tell you.
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Posts: 300
    I recently moved FAR from where I used to live and now I am even farther from work. I am making a 60 mile round trip to and from work everyday, all highway. I recently check the MPG that I was getting...33.5 MPG!!! AWESOME! I didn't add anything or do anything too different. Since I am commuting on the highway in the suburbs I have to keep it @ 70 MPH and under. I would say that only about 50 of those miles are city, with the rest being highway. I am so stunned by this because the original window sticker for my car says 29 miles per gallon on the highway. I guess I blew that right outta the water, right? If I added fuel injection cleaner in the next tank and stuck with highway driving, I'm willing to bet I could nearly reach 35 MPG. :P

    Jeremy
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    Well we made our last payment on our Alero (3.4L, 2000, bought used in 2001) in May. At 123,000km we gave the car a "treat" with a transmission flush (CDN$160.95), coolant flush (CDN$100.45), replaced the thermostat while they were at it (CDN$162.85, mostly labor) and oil & filter change (CDN$26.38). I put in a new air filter on my own for about CDN$15.

    We're planning to keep the car for several years (I've kept past cars to around 220,000km, so at least another 4 years) so it's probably a worthwhile. We'll never know for sure, maybe it was a waste of 500 bucks. But when I consider the cost of an engine or transmission rebuild and/or payments on a newer car... This is one of the last few years of Oldsmobile production, so I might actually want to keep this car for even longer than that.

    Rick D.
    Brockville, ON, Canada
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    Highway mileage on the 3.4L V6, with its quite tall gearing (about 2000rpm at 70mph) and in a relatively light car (around 3050kg) is really pretty impressive. I know some Ford Focus owners who get this kind of mileage in the real world, and often even less.

    Actually, you have to look pretty far and wide to find cars that actually get 32-34mpg (U.S. gallons) highway or better, and few are as responsive - steering, braking, acceleration, handling.

    Rick D.
  • Hey Guy's I found out what the electrical problem was, the previous owner installed one of those K-mart alarm systems and just didn't wire it correctly. So i pulled it out and the Alero is once again happy.
    Could anyone please tell me how to access the Fuel Sending Unit, thanks for all you help
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    Well, according to my Haynes manual at least, you would have to remove the gas cap to depressurize the gas tank, then unfasten the straps on the gas tank so that you can drop the gas tank. The fuel level sending unit appears to be part of a larger module, that also includes the fuel pump and the float. This module is removed from the gas tank from the top, and you would have to then disassemble the module to replace the fuel level sending unit alone.

    If you're going to tackle this yourself you will want to have as empty a gas tank as possible as this would be very heavy and unwieldy when even partially full. You'd want to look at this job carefully to be sure you can SAFELY support the weight of the gas tank while you're underneath the car unfastening the straps. You'll definitely want somebody else there "spotting" you.

    It would probably be worthwhile to have a shop manual of some kind so you can see the photos of the steps and module disassembly. There's some diagnostic information (i.e. which leads to measure using an ohmeter while moving the float up and down) for the fuel level sensor too.

    Good luck,
    Rick D.
  • Hey Guys.... I have the fuel gauge thats jumps around. I was told that it is the sending unit. Is this item it? Fuel Tank Meter Sender/Connector
    Thx
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    Was post 2610 supposed to contain a link to the fuel tank meter sender/connector ? I just see the item listed in bold text and there's no link.

    Rick D.
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    This is the wife Sue replying; my husband is the one who posted the detailed reply (far better than anything I could've come up with) on steps for replacing the fuel level sending unit. I don't know if the name you've posted is the same part; all I can tell you is that, at least according to our Haynes Repair Manual (for the Malibu, Alero, Cutlass and Grand Am), it's called the fuel level sending unit. Here's the Amazon.com link to that book; if you really want to do this repair yourself, it's something you might want to have on hand: Haynes Repair Manual
  • Still searching for anyone who's done this before....looking at making this a DIY task this summer.
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    Neither my husband nor I have ever done this, but it is detailed in the Haynes Repair Manual I cited in another reply. It's better to have the book, because it provides photos showing the different steps, along with the instructions. But under "Seats - removal and installation" and "Front seat" it says:

    1. At the front of each front seat, remove the two bolts securing the seat tracks to the floor. The plastic covers around the ends of the seat tracks can stay in place. Note: The main airbag module is beneath the carpeting under the right front seat. Refer to the Warning above and disable the airbag system before removing the passenger front seat.
    2. Tilt the seat up and toward the instrument panel, unplug any electrical connectors underneath and remove the seat. The front plastic track covers can remain in place while the seat track tabs are lifted out of the slots in the floor.
    3. If you want to replace the seat adjuster assembly, or you need to remove the adjuster to remove or replace the carpet, unbolt the adjuster from the seat assembly.
    4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten all bolts securely.
  • I had recently been looking at buying a brand new Cobalt, but instead of putting a lot of my free cash into a car payment and insurance, I've started looking at the used car lots. I came across a 99 Alero, really sharp looking, with about 60k on it. I have yet to drive it, but from the outside it looks to be VERY nice. But I honestly have no clue about the model or even Oldsmobile. Are they very reliable? And up here in the PA winters, could I get around in the snow decently? The pricetage is about $7500 for the 99,l which seems reasonable to me.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated. :)
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    Keep in mind that 1999 was the first production year for the Alero, and GM still had a few bugs to work out. You might want to scan through all the postings here. It's a long haul, I know, but it will give you an idea of some of the problems people have experienced on a fairly consistent basis.

    Having said that, we own a 2000 Alero GLS, and overall we have been very pleased with it. We've encountered few of the reliability issues other folks have reported. As for getting around in snow, we live in southeastern Ontario, and with the traction control, our Alero handles quite well on snow and in slippery conditions. In the winter, just to err on the side of caution, we switch our BF Goodrich Touring T/A SR4s (which came with the car) with Michelin Arctic Alpins.

    Here's an article that gives an overview of the Alero and also addresses reliability issues: 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero Full Review
  • Thanks for the link! When I get the chance I'll try and pour over the past messages, but in the meantime that page was quite helpful.
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    You didn't mention if it was a 4 or 6 cylinder. If it is a 4, being that it is a 99 it will be the old quad 4. In 2003 Alero changed to the ecotec 4 (same as Cobalt). This is a much smoother more refined engine. But still the quad is good basic transportation. Both get decent gas mileage. If it is a 6, the 6 cylinder is prone to intake manifold gasket failure, about $1000 repair at the dealer. At that mileage and age it should have failed already and the new one should be better. Also 1999 was the first year for the Alero and seemed to have more problems then later years. Brake rotors and losing speeds 1,2 and 3 on the A/C are other common problems.
    On the plus side the Alero has good working traction control as standard equipment and as long as you get a good set of winter tires you will have no trouble in snow. I have a 2000 6 cyl. with 56,000 miles and did have all the problems above but still consider this to be a great car.
    As you read through the posts you will see there were many others with strut/suspension problems, electrical problems, interior vinyl cracking problems, etc. You can also go over to the GrandAm forum, which is the same car only with the Pontiac name on it.
    I am happy with my Alero and I know there are some others here who are also pleased. But when I read the problems many others are having I think it is a more problem prone car and you would be taking a risk with it. Get the Cobalt if you can.
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Posts: 300
    They actually changed to the Ecotec in 2002.

    Jeremy
  • Thank you very much for the reply - the Hanyes manual sounds quite promising. When I attempt this, I'll let the group know how I made out.
  • I was wondering if the newer radios (01-04) in aleros would fit/take the place of the older radios in 99-00 aleros.

    And also would intrigue rims/tires fit on a 2000 alero?

    Thanks for your time
  • Does anyone know where the speakers are with the 8 speaker radio avaible on 2002 aleros are?
    i only can find six
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    I hope someone who knows the answer will tell us, but in some vehicles one speaker housing can contain two speakers.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    If I'm not mistaken, it's just like in the Grand Am GT, a woofer near the bottom and a tweeter near the front corner of the window in each front door, and the same on each side enclosure on the rear package shelf.
  • My parents just got this '99 Olds Alero and are worried about an issue it has. After the ignition is turned off and the key is removed the engine still continues to run for a short time. I found about 5-10 seconds. My mother quotes "it ran for a good 30 seconds" but I think she was overexaggerating. According to her, if you turn the ignition back to on, and then to off again it always shuts off the engine immediately. I don't know if this is true, or a timing coincidence. To me it seems as though this is normal and the engine is just naturally delayed. Does anyone have any input?
  • maggie6maggie6 Posts: 1
    Hi, there. I have the problem with the security light coming on and the car not starting and waiting the ten minutes for it to reset so I can try again. Several times, it takes three attempts to restart. This is a little inconvenient when you need to get to work, or sit in a hot car with groceries (frozen foods, ice cream, etc), or can't drive off the ferry when it docks. By any chance, did you find a better solution.
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