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Oldsmobile Alero

1899092949599

Comments

  • jrp1225jrp1225 Posts: 1
    i have an issue with a 2001 olds alero v-6
    i changed the plugs and wires. service engine light came on later that day. i have a pocket scanner and it said the #3 cylinder was not firing. so i changed the ignition coil. no luck. i am wandering what else could be wrong. i am hopeing it is not the fuel injector. also could it be the spark plug or a bad wire??
  • I have a 2004 4dr v8 alero,auto ..the problem I have encountered is the brakes are noisy scrapping noise when applied at low speed..although I have taken to dealer, the tech has assured me that its normal)very hard pads,4wheel disc)he said gm made like this so pads will wear longer............has anyone heard of this and does any else have same noise?? thewinemaker
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    As you weren't having this problem before you did this service, try replacing the wire on cylinder #3 with the old one. Wires and spark plugs often come with multi-year warranties, so dig out that receipt just in case !
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    On this forum, as on many others, we have posted the gas mileage we have seen. One thing that could affect hwy gas mileage pretty significantly is the type of toll road you (might) be driving on. On the NY Thruway from Syracuse to Buffalo, for example, you pick up a card when you get on the hwy and pay for your trip when you get off. If you've driven 1 hour that can be 1 hour with the engine running steady state on cruise control.

    Comparatively, when I've driven from Chicago to Madison, WI I was stopping every 20 bloody minutes to pay a toll. Not only is that a pain in the butt, and requires far more lanes, I suspect those starts/stops are hurting gas mileage too. Even with "easypass" you have to slow to around 30mph and then accelerate back up to 60mph repeatedly. How much higher would state income tax really have to be to get rid of those tolls ?
  • well as of this date I have no replies to my query ref brakes on 2004 alero(4wheel disc)..If anyone has info regarding this problem would appreciate a reply....the winemaker
  • dad4dad4 Posts: 4
    The car had been performing well since I cleared the symptom. Now that it has just occurred again, I checked for pressure in the fuel rail (no gauge, just checked if it sprayed.) Virtually no pressure. Cycled the ignition key several times then heard the fuel pump kick in. Still wouldn't start. Checked pressure again without turing off ignition, no much pressure. Cycled key several more times. Heard the fuel pump run-up better. Car started right up and ran fine.
    Seems your correction may be the solution. Will try it this week-end and post results.
  • baustin1baustin1 Posts: 1
    I'm pretty much set to go in and buy a 2000 Alero GL w/2.4L and all the perks. It's got 59,600 miles on it and no warranty unless I want to buy one. I'm a little apprehensive about buying after reading about all the issues people have had, but I would think that by this time most of them would have played out on this particular vehicle.

    I'm interested in people's opinions on my situation, and would appreciate any suggestions for what to watch out for when doing final inspection. Also, what type of extended warranty would best cover the array of problems most commonly seen?
  • rainbow1rainbow1 Posts: 1
    When I originally got this alero I had the same problem..The key just will NOT turn..After I played around locking and unlocking the remote locks I was able to turn the key..Now it is doing it again..The key will not turn..So I had to call a tow truck..The dealer is telling me I need a new ignition etc but I am wondering if it has something to do with the security setting since it originally happened when it was new..They want $900 to repair this..Grrr! Can someone help?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    The only kind of warranty I would buy is the GM Major Guard, but you can't if the original warranty is expired so that's not an option. An aftermarket powertrain only warranty won't help with the body electronics which seems to be the most troublesome parts of the Alero/Grand Am.
    This model/year has the Quad 4 which is known to be a powerful but harsh running engine (noise/vibration). If maintained it can be reliable.
    The biggest drawback to the N-body cars was that they were basically low priced cars which probably got less than steller maintenance, hence many problems crop up later.
    My advice would be to find a later model with factory warranty remaining so you can get a GM Major Guard warranty.
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 318
    Some of the "classic" N-body problems are: front wheel bearings need to be replaced (CDN$600 each at garage), resistor for blower motor (CDN$25 dollar part, DYI job), fuel level sensor (CDN$600 at garage), warped rotors.

    I would definitely ask for the service records and check to see if these have already been replaced. That would help me determine the price I'd be willing to pay. If it was serviced at a GM dealer, they may be able to pull up its service records on their computer.

    You could ask the mechanic doing the inspection to see if he can tell if these parts have been replaced, but I'm not sure you could tell. Maybe with the rotors you could as you could assess the amount of rotor left on them and if they had been turned down.

    Good luck.
  • janeiropjaneirop Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Alero and I have the same problem. I took it in twice to two different brake shops and they said that my brakes were practically new. I hear nothing but noise, so I think it has something to do with GM and the Alero
  • dxr012dxr012 Posts: 1
    This may sound stupid but are the pads on correctly. I mean the one on the outside is not on the inside. I made that mistake once and there was a shrill sound everytime I braked until I switched them. If it is the front brakes, the inner pad has the wear indicator and with the rear brakes, it is reverse.
  • Just bought a 2002 Alero with 17,000 miles. I love the car, and the gas mileage. I have only one problem if someone can point me in the right direction. The radio reception is almost nonexistent. I pick up only one FM station and that is mostly static. The cd player works great so it's not a speaker problem. I checked the rear window antenna connection, but that is all I have checked so far. Anybody else have a similar problem. Thanks.
  • Piece of cake. It turned out that the antenna somehow was disconnected (unplugged) in the area of the front passenger right knee. Plugged it back in and the radio works perfect.
  • shaynemshaynem Posts: 1
    Alright so the other day i bought a new CD player for my car Pioneer deh-3800mp turns out the stereo is broken so i just threw the old stereo back in the dash and didn't wire anything. This morning i was gonna go to school and my car would turn over, start but right away shut down, could it be the anti-theft system on the old stereo since its not hooked up or what, I also filled my car up and this morning when i looked it was at empty and yesterday it was at full so could it be my fuel pump or something. please post some answers to help me out thanks
  • although you are partially right about the quad 4 being a noisy engine, the engine in this car is not a quad 4. The quad 4 ended in 95 when the noise/vibration problem was fixed or at least lestened with the addition of ballance shafts to the bottom end to dampen vibration and a different oil pump which is geared to have higher pressure at lower rpms. this is why a 96+ as you called it "quad 4" has a lower redline. because after 5500rpm, the oil pressure drops off. The IDI cover looks similar, but if you look closely you'll notice that one says "quad 4" oand one says "2.4 twin cam". They are very different motors even though they look similar. the 2.4 twin cam of 00 is different then teh 2.4 twin cam of 96-98 model years because from 99 on there arent egr valves on that motor. along with miniscule other things like differently tapped holes for the knock sensor. The cam lift and durration are also different from the quad 4 to the 2.4. Not to mention a quad 4 is actually only 2.3 liters of displacement whereas the 96-02 2.4 twin cam is, as you guessed 2.4 liters of displacement. another quad 4 only thing is the quad four has DOHC option as well as an SOHC option. Although the sohc option is rare at best, and garbage to say the least. Essentially, if you are looking at a GM car with a 4 cylinder engine in it, from 96-02, i'd recomend the 2.4 twin cam for its "peppyness" and would strongly recomend one from 99-02 for it's lack of an EGR and the power that opens, although they are not as easy to fix as say a 2.2 ohc engine if you wish to do any major maintainance to it yourself suchas engine rebuild and head gasket replacement. anything newer then 02, i'd say get an ecotech motor. these are in just about everything GM makes any more it seems, and for good reason. If there was a Z cavalier available with an ecotech when i bought my 99 z24 (2.4 twin cam 5 spd manual tran.), i'd have spent the extra money to get it. The ecotech is in everything from pontiac sunfires, and chevy cavaliers, to pontiac g6's, chevy cobalts in 3 different variants (2.2 dohc, 2.4 dohc vvt, and the 2.0 dohc supercharged), to the saturn sky, and the chevy HHR. It will ultimately be a very damn sturdy motor over a long hual, and cheap to fix as a result of suply and demand. as far as any warranty is concerned, a little foreward planning and preventative maintaince and research into the used vehicle you are buying will ultimately cost you less. any shop can do simple compression, fuel pressure, and oil pressure tests to find anything out of norm before you buy that car, and many can also do engine diagnostics using newer obd II scan tools to tell you any historical engine codes and current ones, which you could possibly work out to be taken out of the sellers pocket or off the price of the car. Any GM dealer can give you service records for that vehicle under warranty, as well as current recalls that have not been performed if there are any, and if a current warranty is that important to you, buy a new car, and get a full one from teh begining. because a used car is only as good to you as the time you put towards finding the right one and maintaining it. any great deal has a reason it is great. I am a gm kind of guy myself and will stick with gm till they give me a reason not to. the best advice i can and have given to many people looking for used cars is don't buy the first thing you find. make a list, and do a lot of research. know the quarks about the car you are looking at. every car has tehm. my next car in example will be a BMW. Most probably an 02-05 bmw 330i 5spd. i know that i should keep my eyes open for cam position sensors going bad and causing the dual vaanos system to misread cam position and mis time the engine as a result causing rough running. Pick a car, find it's quarks, be prepared for them, and life can, and will be just a bit easier.
  • rajanommrajanomm Posts: 1
    I bought my alero used at 25,000 miles. As soon as my factory warranty expired my driver window quit working. I took it in and had to pay to have the motor replaced. Over a year later it stopped again. I took it in to have the dealer fix it since it was still pretty new. The warranty was gone even though it was under the number of years, it was over the milage :mad: . I didn't have it fixed at the time, because I couldn't afford it. I had to reset the oil light and like a miracle the window started working. Soooooooooooo.....the motor never needed replacing in the first place. I have had this window and my driver back window quit and start working again over and over again. Of coure I have the blinker intermittent problem, but can't get the car place here to fix the darn thing. I now have no blinkers because I pushed the hazard button to put my hazzards on and it just kept going. Now the button is buried deep in my dash somewhere with my hazards on. I have had to pull the fuse and even though it is not supposed to effect the blinkers........I have no blinkers and no money to fix this. I should not have to pay to fix this........THIS IS A DEFECT... not wear and tear. My brakes wear out in a matter of a year even though they are supposed to last much longer and I don't drive down steep hills (ever). I hate this car. I got screwed on the financing big time, and now the car is screwing me to. It is just not fair.
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    You may be able to get the hazzard switch replaced for free. There was a recall on this consisting of a free switch replacement. I guess this was considered a safety recall due to its effect on the blinkers. As far as the power window goes my driver side quit a while back. I took my palm and hit the door panel in a few places. When I struck the rear portion of the panel the window started working and has been working ever since.
  • hey, well im new to the forums. i have an 01 alero two door im happy with its quickness handling and the car period. i have done some modifications. i put a dual exhaust system on it, it does not sound like a rice burner though. i replaced the speakers in the back with rockfords so now when the stock amp hits the sound is amazing. i cant wait to get rims and bigger speakers, i saw some of the problems u guys had i had my driver side window stop working and fall off i needed a new regulator. other than that its been good.

    anyway i was just wondering if anyone else here loves the car as much as me and has done anything with it mod wise, and if anyone has modified one and lives in delaware id like to know i live in delaware and never seen another hooked up alero. thanks sorry it was long
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    I agree with everything you said, but it's still a quad 4 with a balance shaft, and even though it's better it's only marginally better than before. There's a good bit of cam noise but of course that's pretty normal for twin overhead cam designs.
    My input on N body cars hasn't changed over the years:
    Inexpensive to buy, but without maintenance (which quite often doesn't get done on inexpensive cars) it won't last, which leads to bad reputations.
  • wpedrowpedro Posts: 1
    Dear Alero owners,
    I am very ALEGRO with my car indeed. A Minor problem, tachometer indicates +/- 10 km on the conservative side, any suggestions?
    please reply to : walterc@wanadoo.nl (the Netherlands)
    Many thanks.
  • If anyone out there knows how to replace the stock stereo on our Alero let us know, please. We'll have to remove the dash front to get to the stereo's mounting bolts. Thanks for all your help.
  • bejbebejbe Posts: 2
    Hi. I'm from Poland and I have Chevy Alero 99' 2,4 16V. I have problem because my car has an accident and now is broken. I'm searching parts. If anyone have bumper, hood, lamps, fender and airbags, please call me... But now is one BIGGER problem because my Alero doesn't start. Engine starting but 2 second later is over. What can be a problem?? What's broken. Maybe after accident is any anti shock or sth else security problem. is no lights inside.. any lamps work... keyless pilot doesn't work. whats problem. PLEASE HELP ME. REGARDS FROM EUROPE :(
  • I just bought a 99 Alero GL Coupe w/ a 2.4L engine. I will be replacing tires soon and am trying to find the closest to the original tires since I doubt the tires on that are on it now are the originals. I know the size and speed rating, but not the brand and model. The tires on it now are Firestone Affinity LH30 93H M+S. I knew it would need new rear tires before i test drove it which is why I wasn't concerned about the road noise. I was thinking that getting the original brand and model of tire when i'm ready to have it done would help it ride quieter. If anyone knows, I'd aprreciate your input.
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    I wouldn't suspect the Firestone Affinity LH30 as a major contributor to your road noise. They aren't rated at the top for road noise and comfort but they still come out ok. I replaced my original P215/60 R15 (BF Goodrich, I think) with Michelin Harmony tires, which I have been very pleased with. First find out the proper size for your car. Alero had a few different options. Then decide which type of tires you need. For example if you live where it snows get at least all season tires. Do your research at tirerack.com. You can get ratings for wear, noise, performance etc. for many individual tires. These ratings are based on many owners driving many miles not just one man's opinion as I am giving you here.
  • r6bikerr6biker Posts: 1
    Up until about 6 months ago my 03 V6 Alero coupe was working fine. one morning after raining all night I walk outside to discover the trunk popped and the floorboard flooded. Ever sense then, the remote trunk release doesn’t work and every time it rains, the keyless entry doesn’t work and the car will not start (engine does not turn over or even engage the solenoid) If I let it sit and "dry out", it runs fine. Covering the drivers side fuse box with a bag has almost fixed the problem until a few days ago when I drove home in a heavy rain. It died when I was still driving it! At first I thought I ran out of gas because I was very low. But because it was so sudden I don’t think so. Now the keyless entry works but the car will not turn over no matter how long it sits. There is hasn’t been any visible water in the floorboard sense the first occurrence.
    I guess all I can do is try and find a used fuse box from a yard and hope it will get it going for another year or so sense I can’t afford a window seal.
    (Anyone know how to remove and replace said box?)
  • ken38ken38 Posts: 8
    Anyone who has knowledge of this problems and solution please reply:

    Alero 2001 AC not cooling.

    The compressor is engaging and disengaging normally when I work the controls as the engine runs.

    The discharge line from the compressor is hot enough so it appears that the compressor is pumping well.

    The suction line going into the evaporator behind the dash at the firewall outside is cool as I think it should be. The return line is close to freezing. Condensate drips and falls to the ground.

    I did not put a set on gauges to check the pressures.

    Would there be some controls that are not working so the air is not blowing cold into the cabin?

    Send me an email REPLY to:

    tansane@bellsouth.net.

    I lost my password and cannot get in normally. I will have to check into this later.

    Meanwhile my wife is going crazy by not having AC in her car! I have to lend her my truck while I fix this problem.

    Thanks for your help [anyone]

    Ken 38
    END
    ###
  • t_r818t_r818 Posts: 1
    Hi All!!!
    Has anyone had the above issue- i checked the bulbs and they are ok, i also checked the fuses and they are not burned either. I wanted to get feedback prior to taking the car into the dealer-also the service vehicle soon light comes on intermittantly.

    Thank you in advance for any feedback!!!!! :confuse:
  • Hi im Mark from Buffalo NY, IN THE U.S. i have some alero parts from my 2000 alero om parting out. such as airbags $450 for the set including the module and clockspring, they are grey in color. i have a drivers side fender $175, driver side headlamp $125, contact mark @ markdh06@yahoo.com....thanks
  • I own 2 Aleros. Both 3.4l sedans. 1999 and 2004. Bought both used 1 year old and the savings was unbelievable on both vehicles. The '99 leaks somewhere around the front windshield. No one can find out, yet, where it is coming from. The '04 does not leak. Both are GREAT cars and run like racers, but the '99 has quicker throttle response and higher torque. It's nickname is Seabisquit (BMWs hate it). No probs so far with either Alero. '99 has 120,000m. '04 has 36000+m. I think they are great cars and would not hesitate to buy another well-cared-for Alero. Only wish Olds had made two-door convertible Aleros.
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