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Oldsmobile Alero

19395979899

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  • I also had coolant on the passenger side.
  • Sounds like the water pump. Check the pump when the engine is cold by feeling underneath it for leaks. Not expensive or difficult to replace.
    Replacing the serpentine belt(if needed) is aggravating though. Have to take the motor mount off and raise the engine.
  • I was able to get mine done for free. It literally takes 5 min to program the FOB. Next time you need an oil change, be polite and be very social with the service rep and ask if they can program the key while they do the oil change. The only reason why they charge you is to cover the time it takes to bring the vehicle in, setup the programmer and compelte the work...in total it takes about 20 min to 1/2 hr.

    Good luck...
  • Anyone have a pdf of a repair manual for a 1999 Alero GLS? I would greatly appreciate if someone could email it or link to a site where I can find it.

    Thanks in advance.
  • The OEM spark plugs for my 99 Alero GLS (V6) recommends platinum plugs at 0.06 gap. Does anyone know if I can use Iridium plugs instead? They cost only $1 more per plug...any benefits? Pros/Cons? Also, how the heck do I access the remaining two plugs...four are on top, I assume the other two are on the bottom? Are they easily accessible from under the car?

    Thanks in advance...
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    Did anyone have their hub axel bearing assemblies replaced? The symptom is a loud rumble in the front as the bearing starts to go bad. Looks like the whole assembly gets changed not just the bearing and if one side is bad the other is not far behind. After doing some research it looks like this part is common on many GMs and usually fails by 100K. I am mainly interested in what a repair shop or dealer charged for this.
    Thanks,
    Mike
  • dcnws1dcnws1 Posts: 14
    Don't know if this is a common problem to all GM cars, but my daughters 2001 Alero with around 30,000 miles on it had the front right hub replaced. Cost at the Pontiac dealer was around $300. I like the style and looks of the car, even after 6 years, but I will be checking out Honda before I buy again. Keep an eye on your oil and beware of the coolant mixing with it through a faulty gasket. Had that replaced already too, for around $700. Yep, Honda will get a serious look.
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    Thanks for the response. I was getting quoted about $300 per side for the hub bearing assembly replacement and just wanted to see if that was in line what others have paid. From my understanding there was a problem with the bearing assembly nut and torque spec through 2001 on Alero's, Grand Am's and Malibu's that caused the bearing failure. There is a new part # for the nut with a lower torque spec.
    I have a 2000 Alero V-6, and same as you, still like the looks of the car a lot after 7 good years. When I look at the power, style, initial cost and MPG it is hard to find a comparable replacement in the new car market.
    I already had the intake manifold gasket replaced ($1200 minus $600 GM goodwill), front rotors replaced twice, water pump (only $60 for WP but $250 for labor), ignition switch for about $400 and now I am looking at close to $700 for the hub bearing assemblies.
    I think I will be in the market for a new non-GM in the near future even though I currently have $3500 in credits on the GM card.
  • dcnws1dcnws1 Posts: 14
    Who did you contact to get the GM goodwill refund? $1200 sounds high for the manifold gasket, but I do a lot of business at the Pontiac dealer and they may have cut me a break. I have also replaced brake rotors at 20,000 miles, but that has been about it. I am also getting the bubbling under the door panel material. Another common problem because the glue didn't hold well.
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    You're right about $1200 being a little high. I just pulled the receipt to check and the total was $918. Labor was $710 and they charged $208 for what is called a "Intake Gasket Kit". This is a kit with the 3 gaskets required plus the seals, sealer, adhesive and coolant. If I check the individual part #s at gmpartsdirect.com, I only come up with $138. That's a lot of markup for putting it in a kit.
    This was in April 2005. I called the Oldsmobile 800 number in my owners manual and was suprised that they were actually still there and answering the phone as "Oldsmobile Customer Satisfaction". Deal was I had to pay the Pontiac dealer the $918 and send receipts to Olds and they sent me a check for half. The savings really wasn't that great because the local independent shop would have done it for $600.
    I didn't have the bubbling under the door panel material problem. I think that started in 2001.
  • I was having problems with my passlock system, where when I would try to start my car, it would start then stop suddenly and the security light would blink. While the light was blinking you couldn't start the engine again until the light stopped (which was about 10-15 min) then most of the time I could start it up right away. This would happen off and on, which got to be very annoying. Here are a couple of solutions for fixing and what to do until you get it fixed.

    You don't have to change out the entire ignition switch, just the passlock sensor that happens to be in the ignition. I had this done and it only costs about $300. My dealer said that they have seen this before and 9 out of 10 times it was the sensor causing the problem. I had the sensor replaced at the end of January and I haven't had any problems since then.

    Until you can get it in the shop for the repairs, an easy and temporary fix is when you get out of the car, lock your door with your key, that will reset the security. If it happens that the light still comes on, get out and use your key to lock the door again. Once the light stops you should be able to start it up again without any problems. This tip was given to me by a tow truck driver, and it worked like a charm until I got it in the shop.
  • dcnws1dcnws1 Posts: 14
    If you got a partial refund from GM for the manifold gasket failure, consider yourself lucky. I went through the entire process and spoke to two reps at customer service, and was told the dealer could have billed GM and not charged me the full amount. Well, I paid the full amount and have the receipt from a GM dealer, but that doesn't make any difference. So I guess they were not in a customer service mood today. It's possible I may get an inquiry in the mail from them asking how things went. If I do, I will tell them I am not happy with their decision. By the way, they asked how many cars and makes/models I owned. Four and all GM. Probably not by the end of summer though.
  • yaz22yaz22 Posts: 4
    It may not be worth fixing. You can buy a used radio on e-bay for under a $100. Or try junk yards in your area, they carry them as well. Just watch out for the theftlock code. Hopefully, whoever you get it from has the code for the radio or you may need to get it from GM.
  • :sick: My 2002 Alero, which has only 29,000 miles, recently started doing this strange thing where I'll start it and nothing lights up - not the little green light for the AC, the odometer, or anything else! Sometimes it lasts a few moments but sometimes it doesn't happen at all. A few times the "service" warning has come on, but not always. If I restart my car, the light usually goes away. Other than this, my car hasn't really had any problems. What could possibly be causing this sporadic malfunction in my Alero? Has it happened to anyone else?
    Thank you for your help!!! :)
  • dcnws1dcnws1 Posts: 14
    If it's throwing a code, the next time you're in for an oil change, as them to scan it to see what it's setting.
  • yaz22yaz22 Posts: 4
    Alero owners, here is some helpful info. Junk yards have Alero's and you can get parts pretty cheap. I almost purchased an entire set of cloth seats (fronts and back) for only $200 from a wreck. I decided to keep the leather and have them upholstered. You can get window switches, motors, console pieces and most other parts at real good prices. And since these car are the same as the Malibu and Cutlas, that means more parts are available in the yards. There is also an online GM store for buying new parts. The staff are excellent and real helpful. The site is called: www.newgmparts.com
    Good luck with your Alero's.
  • I have a 99' Alero, 3.1 and the first thing that happned was about a week ago, it wouldn't start. My wife had it at a gas station and a guy came over to help her and said to lock and unlock the car 3 or 4 times. She did so, and it worked. The next day the car was working fine. That night I went to pick her up, and I had to do the same thing with the lock unlock thing. The following morning, I went to start it and it missed the first time. Fired up on the second try. Didn't drive it all day. That night it started up fine for her, and then she turned the car off, then went to start it again and wouldn't start. We have replaced the starter, and it worked fine for 3 or 4 starts, now we are back to square 1.

    This morning it wouldn't start at all. When I turn the key it does nothing. I take the key out and all my gauges on my dash board go crazy. The needles bounce all over the place with the car turned off. I read about leaving the key on acc or on for 10-20 mins, so I tried that, nothing. But everytime I do that, my clock goes back to 1:00 the next time the battery is on. Now I am getting a click like the battery is dead.

    Please help!
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Has the condition of the battery been checked? Do you know how old the battery is?
  • That was my dad's thought, but we are getting 12.5 voltz. We tried last night unhooking the battery for a couple of hours to reset the security system. That didn't work. We were thinking about taking it out and having it tested. I get radio, lights and all that though.
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    A battery will often test godd and still cause odd problems. If you have the original battery, just change it. You are long overdue. You can get a Kirkland battery at Costco for about $50. They are made by Johnson Controls, maker of the Optima. Another option would be to swap batteries with another car in the family to see if the problem goes away.
  • jprocjproc Posts: 135
    Having the same problem with my 03.A cady dealer looked at it and found a bulletin on it.He said to do 2 things: One try a better grade of gas.Two we gave it a valve cleaning (think thats the right term)Cost about$ 175. Since that cleaning, car has started up everytime but once and that once it started on the second try.
    Still driving around with 87 octane but will upgrade to 89 next fill up.

    Bad news is that if the above doesn't work the bulletin said to take apart the engine and try some stuff.If it gets to that pointI will trade in car first
  • Yeah I just got this engine about a year and a half ago. The engine blew. It's only got about 40k miles.
  • johoshjohosh Posts: 1
    I just got my hands on an 2002 Alero, 4-cylinder 2.2, and I'm looking to start playing with some upgrades... Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get much help from people so far. Any recommendations of a good place to start with it?
  • Hmmm, I've been looking for aftermarket Alero parts as well. Not much out there. I suspect Grand Am aftermarket parts will fit.
  • junemjunem Posts: 1
    :D l purchased a 2002 two door alero,automatic 4 cyclinder. l love driving this car. have had NO engine problems. l've had the car for 5 years now. the BRAKES on this car are HORRIBLE!!!! l've replaced front ones twice, and back ones once, and all rotors. l had small problem with my passenger seat too, but only minor adjustment. but now l'm having problems with my brake lights not always shutting off. overall, l would buy another one. l love the look and feel of this car. LOL ,my husband calls it a CHICK car.
  • msdavid1msdavid1 Posts: 2
    i have a 2002 alero had it about 4 months it's a used car with about 115,000 miles on it my security light is on but not blinking and the car turns over but wont start what do i do?
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    I can point you in the right direction. It sounds like your passlock sensor failed which is part of your ignition switch. This is common Alero problem. Dealer fix is change ignition switch for about $600. Being that you can still insert your key and turn it, a good automotive locksmith has a tool to remove the ignition switch without dash disassembly. Ignition switch replacement should be about $200. Some locksmiths can even change just the passlock sensor. Check yellow pages for automotive locksmith. Make sure it is a real locksmith and not a national broker with a local #. They charge a lot and farm the work out to a local locksmith. It's when you can't turn the key that the dash needs to be pulled apart to get the switch out and the price goes up to about $400.
    There is also a procedure to cut a yellow wire and bypass the passlock security. This will allow you to strat your car but security light will always be on. Do a search on "ignition switch" and "security" in this forum to read how others have solved this problem. Pay particular attention to meaasage #2737, 2738 and 2740. Also check message #2291 in the Grand Am forum.
  • tainted24tainted24 Posts: 5
    I own a Alero GL 2000 4d sedan. I've noticed water under the passenger side seat several times now after a storm.

    I have read a few comments on this topic and I was wondering, is a "auxiliary water deflector" and a
    "Moisture shield" the same or two completely different parts on the door??? :confuse:

    Where could one purchase such an Item??

    Thanks in advance.
  • 14871487 Posts: 2,407
    I just noticed water under my passenger side mat. I am assuming this is a common issue. My car is a 2002 GLS. Does anyone know the most common cause of this problem?

    I have had many of the issues others have had with their cars. My parents have an Intrigue and had FAR fewer issues so I am disappointed in the Alero.
  • isseyvooisseyvoo Posts: 121
    I had an '01 Alero and was getting water under the passenger side mat too. I couldn't figure it out until I went through a high pressure car wash once and saw a couple of drops come down behind the glove box into the foot well. Turns out the seal at the bottom of the windshield was bad on that side. Extended warranty refused to cover, so I had a glass shop attend to it. They patched or caulked or did something to plug the leak. As I recall it cost around $70. After all the electrical problems I had, I gave up on the car with just 25,000 miles on the odometer and traded it in. I now drive a Mazda6 and am a much happier camper.
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