Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

L8_ApexL8_Apex Posts: 187
Welcome to the continuation of the Hyundai Elantra
topic. Those of you joining us from that topic
are welcome to continue your discussion.

If you're new to this topic, you may want to
follow the above link for additional archived


Sedans Host


  • I used to work for a place that did body work many years ago. We haven't done any in about 5 years but I haven't heard of any changes. If memory serves me, it's a violation of federal regulations to repair a bumper with any significant damage (significant being a tear or corruption of the plastic surface).

    What many people don't realize is that the 5 mph bumper is nothing more than a plastic core covered by more plastic. Doing a cosmetic coverup may just hide the fact that the bumper is no longer viable protection against any impact. Be sure the damage is merely cosmetic and not structural.

    Also, be sure the body shop is not going to do one of those cheap vinyl patch coverups you see on tv. Not only do they look cheap, the patch has a tendency to fade differently than the rest of the bumper and, in some cases, come off after a short period of time.
  • richsaprichsap Posts: 93
    A more logical method...

    Assuming you will own the car for a few years, and assuming that you will scratch/dent your bumper a couple more times during those years...

    Why not buy a nose protector (bra) and cover the bumper up for a couple of years (or until you decide to sell the car). Then have the work on the bumper done. If you have indeed dented/scratched it a few more times, you'll only have to replace it once instead of each time it gets damaged.

    My front bumper on my 2k Elantra was struck by a 2x4 on the highway four weeks after I bought it. The paint was scraped off the bumper, but because you can't see it through the bra, I'm not going to worry about it for a few years.

    Note that this applies to the bumper only, as it is plastic and will not rust over time.

    Also, the $80 bra will serve to protect the paint from rock chips on the front edge of the hood.
  • shakthishakthi Posts: 1
    Hi All

    Am planning to buy a new Elantra 2000. All Elantra holders please advice me whether its a worth buying vehicle and also let me know howz the resale. What is the best deal i can strike with stick shift, moonroof and ABS.
    Please advice
    Thanks for your time
  • I never heard of anyone with ABS on their Elantra, though it is of course an option. I would think it'd be very hard to find one with it...
  • My mother had abs on a previous Buick she owned. Brakes wore out at less than 25,000 miles and it cost her $600 to have them fixed due to the complexity of the system.

    One reason I chose the Elantra over cars like the Cavalier was because it didn't have abs. Besides, it's an outrageously expensive option and not worth the 5% discount you get from insurance, especially when you factor in repair costs.
  • bshadowbshadow Posts: 2
    Want to price it? Visit this site . It is the best site I have found for comparing different cars and getting a price. They will lock in the price they give you and then you can buy through them if a dealer won't match.
  • bshadowbshadow Posts: 2
    I am in the market for a car and I have been
    checking out the Elantra because it
    really sounds like the best deal out there for what I want.

    Problem: I live 150 miles from the nearest
    dealership and I was wondering about problems, if
    any, that people have had using the roadside
    assistance. Being so far from the dealership has
    been the only draw back I can find so far.

    Thanx in advance for all responses.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Schreck1, you mom was screwed big time. If you mean that the pads or rotors wore out, than ABS does not cause it to be more expensive. ABS does not add any complexity to the braking system when it comes to changing pads and rotors. Only if you run into an ABS warning light and malfunction does it get more complicated and expensive to fix. My Dad has changed the pads on my Mom's 92 Accord with ABS in less than a half hour and only cost him $20. The Accord now has 181,000 miles on it with no repairs ever needed to the ABS system. So, your Mom was gouged big time if she only needed a routine brake job.
    Elantra00, do you honestly think downshifting your manual tranny will do any good if your brakes have locked in a panic stop?? I don't think so! The whole point to ABS is to keep your brakes from locking so you retain steering control and to shorten stopping distances in both wet and dry conditions. Some cars benefit less from ABS than others, but my 2000 Accent is one that definitely would benefit from that option. My front brakes lock way too easily, making the steering useless. They have already locked 3 times in the past 3 months, one of which I only asked the car to stop moderately fast when someone pulled out in front of me on a moist road when I was going 40 mph. The right front brake locked immediately and I lost complete steering control as the car skidded and screeched to a stop, thankfully before hitting the jerk who pulled out. If my car had ABS, I could have steered away from him into a side street if I did not have enough space to stop, or it would have helped me stop way shorter so it wouldn't have even been a near miss. It also would increase the confidence I have in how my car reacts in emergency situations. My car is a manual so I am well aware how engine braking helps slow the car quicker than does an automatic, but it doesn't help if your front brakes are locked. In other words, I think ABS is far from a waste of money! I highly suggest it to anyone who can afford it and can wait to find one equipped with that rare option.
  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    thats not what i meant. my opinion is that i would take that money and put it towards options such as rims, moonroof and so forth. ive had my car for about 3 months so far and the brakes never locked on me. so, ive driven my mothers saab 9-3 w/ 5 spd and with antilock brakes. the braking was better, but thats because it has rear disc brakes vs the elantra with rear drum brakes. however, the saab stopped slightly better then the elantra. another example would be my old car....a 1986 toyota corolla. never once did the brakes lock up or fail. never a problem with them whatsoever. This is strictly my opinion. i just rather put my money for other options rather then that.
  • jlim1jlim1 Posts: 50
    I have found out that my 2000 Elantra has plenty of tire, engine, and wind noise felt and heard in the cabin. Reviewers on MSN seem to agree with my findings. I wonder if the tires (Michelin XGT) are the cause of the excessive noise. I used to test drive a 99 Corolla and it was heavenly quiet in the cabin. I guess that's one of my disappointing driving moments in an Elantra apart from the so-so AC and the driver-side blind spot not cleared out by the windshield wipers.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Michelin XGT tires are known for being noisy tires, as is the MXV4. My brother has an Integra GSR which came with XGT-V4 tires that were ridiculously loud at highway speeds. He switched to Dunlop SPsport 9000 and the car was noticeably quieter (not to mention grippier in the wet and dry). My sister's Honda Accord had tire noise problems with the XGT4 tires and my Mom's Honda Accord with MXV4 tires was loud as well. It seems to be a chronic problem with Michelin tires. They may be high quality and long lasting, but boy are they noisy! I would imagine those tires are partially to blame for the road noise you are hearing. I suggest switching to either Bridgestone or Dunlop. My experiences with them have been very good, as well as noticeably quieter at highway speeds.
  • jxcarjxcar Posts: 8
    Many thanks to Liufei, richsap and schreck1 for advices. I've decided to leave the bumper alone and fix it after the next mishap. :) It's not obvious at all when I look at it now, anyway.
    However, I do think about covering the scratches around it with touchup paint. There's also a small scratch on the passanger door (door-ding?). Do you know any good choice for touchup paints? Any specification on Elantra paint? How good would this thing work?
  • jxcarjxcar Posts: 8
    Richsap: Last weekend, I just got a CD changer for my Elantra like the one you described for me. Thank you so much!
    It's a JVC 12-CD changer. Cost only $270 including installation. It has one year factory warranty for the CD changer and lifetime labor warranty from the store. It's installed at the upper edge of the trunk. They said it's the only place they'd put it with warranty since it's the only spot in the trunk that would avoid bumping and hitting from things in there. It has two controls (one cordless), both can be easily hidden.
    I think it's a great deal. Highly recommand anyone who doesn't have a CD player to get one like this. It's great fun and costs no more than just a CD player. Plus, you get to keep the original radio and cassette!
  • liufeiliufei Posts: 201
    Since your Elantra is new, best bet is your dealership to get matching color. It probably cost around $3-$5 per can. Auto shop like Autozone may have them for less, but dont know if they carry one for Elantra.
  • jxcarjxcar Posts: 8
    Shakthi: I got my 2000 Elantra for more than 2 months now. I'm very happy for my choice. To me, it's the best value out there for the class. I'll keep the car for at least 10 year, as the warranty lasts, so the resale is no big deal.
    I agree with Elantra00, you should look for around $11500 or even less (before tax) at this time of the year. I got mine more than 2 months ago for $10K (5-speed, base model).

    bshadow: I don't think how far away you live from the dealership matters when it comes to roadside assistance. The roadside assistance services are provided through "Cross Country Motor Club" and have nothing to do with dealerships, I assume. And it claims to cover "anywhere in US and Canada". However, I'm not sure how well it covers some remote areas. Maybe you should call Hyundai or the motor club to check it out. I've never used the service yet, so can't comment on their quality.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    Backed my 99 Accent into a metal guy wire about 3 months after I bought it. It really scratched up the rear bumper. I bought a little jar of touch up paint from my Hyundai dealer for 5 bucks. It had a little brush on it. I was able to touch up the scratches pretty well. This paint matches perfectly. Get the touchup paint at the dealer.

  • I've had my 5-speed Elantra for little over a month now. I've got slightly more than 3,000 miles on it already and I'm about to make a 2,500 mile roadtrip to the Midwest from my home on the East Coast. The car has been great so far, not a blip, rattle, squeak, or flaw. Most of my driving has been highway miles and I've been very pleased by the mileage I'm starting to see (33-36 mpg recently).
  • Hi

    I've posted here before concerning the brake sound problem with my 2000 Elantra. The brakes make a knocking sound when I come to a slow stop. I brought it in to the dealer, and they "machined" the drums (no idea what that means). The noise actually went away for about 2 weeks, now the noise is back. :( I am not sure if I should bring it in (to the same dealer) again, or what...

    Has anyone experienced a similar problem? I'd be grateful for any comments.

  • richsaprichsap Posts: 93

    On drum type brakes, the brake pads are curved on the outside edge and have to be the same diameter as the inside of the brake drum. If the brake drum somehow gets out of round, it will decrease your braking power and cause the car to shudder when coming to a stop.

    What the dealership did was put the drum on a machine that spins it around as if it were on the car. They then place a cutting tool onto the inner surface of the rotating drum and remove just enough metal to insure that the surface is exactly round and smooth.

    If your brakes are making a knocking sound, there is something else wrong. I'm not a Hyundai mechanic, but work on cars often. The description sounds like a bad wheel bearing, which you may associate with the brakes because you only hear it at low speeds when you are slowing down. The brake drums had to be removed to be machined, and the wheel bearings come out also. They should have put new grease in the wheel bearings, which could have quieted them down temporarily.

    Can you feel anything in the brake pedal as you slow down? Does it pulsate as you come to a stop? Does the car itself vibrate at all?

    Sounds like another trip to the dealer. Sorry to hear you are having a problem. Definitely have the dealer's best suspension/drivability mechanic take a ride in the car. Good luck!
  • Thank you for your response.

    I tested it again, and the knocking sound only happens if I use the brakes (handbrake or regular). It's a very hollow sound, so I first thought it was something in the trunk.

    I cannot feel any pulsating if I come to a stop, and the car itself does not vibrate.

    Thanks again.

Sign In or Register to comment.