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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

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Comments

  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    I did my first oil change at 2k, my second at 5k, and I'm trying to settle into the "severe usage" schedule of 3750. When I change I use dino oil, but I've gotten a couple changes at dealers and they always put in synthetic even thougth I've never asked for it (including the first oil change the dealer gave me for free). I have to admit that when changing synth oil at the same interval as dino, it appears much cleaner, still honey-colored.
  • phild01phild01 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with a 2004 Pacifica. People are telling me it's weather related. If it was there would be loads of cars with similar problems. Had dealer look at it and he said it was normal. Will take pictures next time to show same year with clear headlights.
  • briggerbrigger Posts: 14
    I'm starting to think it may be quality control issue. I've looked underneath, and it definitely looks like no new parts were put in from a wreck. It' also handles really well, so if it's mechanical, you would think you would notice. A couple of people have said the "springs" may be bad. It seems the most logical answer. I took it in the shop today just to find out. I just have to know. I'll let you know what they say. What was the logic behind it being weather related?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,686
    The other possibility is that there was some suspension damage that is difficult to spot, and it has not been repaired yet. My wife did a number on our '04 Elantra GT this winter, running into a curb in a snowstorm. About $1000 damage. I could tell a wheel was shredded, but who knows if I would have noticed all the other damaged parts that were replaced--some of those they didn't even know about until they starting working on it.
  • briggerbrigger Posts: 14
    I just heard back from my shop. They found a damaged strut as the reason. Have you had that checked?
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    If you wouldn't mind sharing, I would like to know what a strut replacement costs these days.
  • briggerbrigger Posts: 14
    Absolutely. It's about $390. the struts were about $170. Labor about $150 + the cost of alignment. I hope that's not too much of a sticker shock. I've had my car all of 3 weeks and got this bill. The mechanic told me it's really a common problem with pot holes. If it weren't for the slight lean, I wouldn't have guessed. It really wasn't a handling problem up until now.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    That seems a little high for struts, but not outrageously so. My most recent experience was with my Escort a couple years ago, and we had front struts and 4 new tires put on for about $600... I think it was about half for the struts and half for the tires memory serves.

    My son just hit a rock in the road last week, blew out one of those tires and slid into a guardrail. The damages this time were about $400.... $200 for a new half-shaft (boot got torn up and they don't replace just the boot), $110 for bent tie rod, plus an alignment. I had to buy a new rim at a junk yard, cuz the old one was pretty bent up between the rock and the guard rail. The tire was remounted and balanced under my road hazard warranty for free (it was still good).
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    I know someone that had new front struts put on a Buick a year or so ago. I want to say he paid in the neighborhood of $750 for these at the time.

    I thought that sounded high at the time, so that's why I was curious what the replacement of the Elantra strut ran.
  • briggerbrigger Posts: 14
    Did they get shocks at the same time? or maybe with it just being a bigger vehicle, more was involved. An Elantra is a pretty simple car.
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    They got BOTH front struts for the $750 figure - which is in line with your one for $390. You did just have to replace 1 correct?
  • briggerbrigger Posts: 14
    No, I got both front ones for the $390. I have to say, I feel better about this upcoming bill. I'd be glad to ask if the 750 is normal when I pick up the car today. Are you on the coast or other high rent district?
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    I am on the coast, but it is the "right coast" and not the "left coast". No high rent district for me LOL.

    My buddy did have his Buick struts replaced at the Buick dealer...that may be part of the reason for the price. Glad to hear that you got BOTH for $390. I am thinking of replacing the ones on my '02 in a year or so. By then it should have @ 90K miles on it. As long as the car still runs perfect, and everything still works on it then, I will probably go ahead and replace the struts.
  • briggerbrigger Posts: 14
    I bet it's the dealer then. I'll ask today what they would charge for a Buick and if certain models are more difficult/expensive. I just go to Tire Discounters. I think they are pretty much all over the country.
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    I am hearing a weird noise through the rear, passenger side wheel well when I drive over rough surfaces at low speeds. When I hit bumps at higher speeds, no noise. It is hard to explain, but it is like the road noise is amplified greatly just through that one wheel well.

    I have taken the wheel off and put it back on to make sure the wheel isn't loose. I have also checked the housing for that drum brake assembly, inspected everything I can see under the car, and nothing is visibly loose. I am wondering if maybe that strut is a little weak, and is amplifying the road noise, or if that wheel bearing is possibly making the noise.
  • briggerbrigger Posts: 14
    Im not even close to a mechanic, but do you feel a wobble or vibration? I've had ball joints go out and it sounds similar. That's bad since you could lose a wheel while driving.
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    Everything feels great with the car. It's just pronounced road noise at low speeds over rough (gravel road) surfaces - through just that one corner of the car.
  • briggerbrigger Posts: 14
    That might be worth checking out just in case...
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Check all the bolts in the rear suspension, especially the rear sway bar. Also check the sway bar bushings.
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    Good point - I will look this weekend.

    I was thinking of even swapping out the sway bar/bushings/links for the 18mm in the near future (I will probably go with the 18mm since the sedan is a little lighter than the hatchback). However, I want to make sure everything else is ok back there before I do so.
  • shaz_mtlshaz_mtl Posts: 1
    Hi I recently bought a left front fender for my 1986 Hyudai Elantra. I noticed an electricl part within the fender itself was smashed in my old fender and not in the fender part I bought. It looks to be ceramic..does anyone know what this part is called and what is does. I was driving for ahile with the smashed part and fender and didn't notice anything n ot working. Thanks much.
    Shaz
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,686
    An insulator for electrical wires perhaps?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Air bag sensor???
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Do you mean 1996 Elantra? I didn't think they made them in 86.
  • tsgeiseltsgeisel Posts: 352
    So, I got my financing through the dealership, because with my lousy credit, they were able to get me a much better deal than I was able to get online (credit unions wouldn't touch me).

    The problem is that I was offering such a large down payment that I didn't meet the minimal loan amount. So they sold me an extended warranty.

    Now, this really appears to be an extension to the warranty - it's through Hyundai (who I bought the car from), there's no deductible, and none of the exclusions seem to be odd or restrictive. Basically it extends the bumper-to-bumper warranty from 5yr/60k to the full 10yr/100k.

    But is it worth it? I mean, I still have some time to cancel it, and get some of my money back - money I could use for other things, and even though I'll lose a bunch on the interest inflation, over time, I'm not really hurting in terms of monthly payments.

    So...keep the extended warranty, or dump it? Anyone have experiences with this sort of thing?
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    On the whole, warranties benefit the people selling them, not the people buying them. They are moneymakers.

    If you plan on doing regular maintenance, get your money back.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,686
    Automatic or stick? One benefit of the extended warranty is that it covers the auto tranny for 10 years or 100k miles. That is the most complex component of the car, also one prone to failure (the tranny on a friend's Honda just failed, it's not a Hyundai thing), and one that is very expensive to repair. How much did you pay for the warranty? The other thing is that the warranty is transferrable, once. So if you do wind up selling the car within 10 years/100k miles it can add to the resale value.
  • tsgeiseltsgeisel Posts: 352
    It's an automatic. I paid about $1500 for it, which definitely seemed a bit inflated to me, but could be useful, and it did, ironically, get me the better loan.

    I would guess that it's transferrable the same way that the standard Hyundai warranty is - that is to say 1/2 credit at best. But I still plan on keeping it the full 100k...

    And isn't the transmission part of the powertrain, that is covered under the longer, standard warranty?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,686
    About $500 too much based on quotes I've received on that warranty on Elantras. If I were you I'd try to get the money back, then shop around for a better price (closer to $1000) if you really want the warranty.

    You are right the auto tranny is covered under the standard warranty--but that is not transferrable. I think the extended warranty is transferrable in its entirety--check the documentation you should have received on it.
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    "tsgeisel" said - "But is it worth it? I mean, I still have some time to cancel it, and get some of my money back - money I could use for other things, and even though I'll lose a bunch on the interest inflation, over time, I'm not really hurting in terms of monthly payments."

    "backy" said - "About $500 too much based on quotes I've received on that warranty on Elantras. If I were you I'd try to get the money back, then shop around for a better price (closer to $1000) if you really want the warranty"

    Question is - will it cost "tsgeisel" $500 or more in increased interest over the course of the loan if he/she were to cancel the extended warranty and then go purchase another for $1000. If the answer is yes, he/she should just sit tight.
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