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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

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Comments

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    I really like my Touring SE. Like my '02 GLS and '05 GT, it isn't fast, but it is quick and very nimble.

    One thing I have always like is the sound of that 2.0L from the drivers seat. Winding it up through the gears sounds more like a modified little racer engine that an economy engine. At 3K miles, I am averaging 31MPG in combined highway/city. And a 50/50 combination of that.
  • How does the Touring compare to the '05 GT? I have not had problems with our '02 GT and I like it because with the manual trans it is fun to drive and overall maintenance costs have been lower. Plus, it does get better milage than published. We have always driven manual trans but only the low end Sonata offers it. Looks like only VW offers extensive line with manual trans. Has the interior comfort of the Touring improved over the '05 GT? I am a bit frustrated the dealership doesn't keep more manual trans models around to try but I guess I understand. No one learns how to drive them. My daughter had a Corrolla with a stick and had to teach her husband to drive it. He had a 99 Celica GT which I contend would have been a lot more fun to drive if he had gotten a stick on it.....plus better milage.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The seats are very comfortable, but leather is not offered. Good luck finding an SE with a stick. When I bought mine, there were 2 in Texas!

    Compared to the '05 GT, the handling is crisper (more wheel, less tire) and since they now come with Kumho instead of Michelins, more road noise. The radio is better, the a/c is still outstanding.

    One problem it does have to go in for right away, though, is that there is no throttle between idle and 2000rpm. As in you are either at idle or at 2000plus. With a stick in traffic this can be a real issue. I'm not too concerned though as the dealer here is excellent and has some very top-notch techs.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,232
    Finally got my wife's '01 Elantra in for the control arm/subframe recall. The news is not good. The dealer called the car basically unsafe to drive. And parts are on back-order. So until parts come in we'll have a rental car paid for by Hyundai.
  • Hiya all,

    Somewhat new here ... and really like the Hyundai Elantras ... but have only been approved from my credit union for $6,200.00. I need automatic transmission and air conditioning .... is that a reality?

    Do you think I can find a car with fairly low mileage and in good mechanical shape, for that price, or should I look at something else?

    Thanks so much
    Diana
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    Depends on what you mean by "low mileage" and where you live. I just did a search within 100 miles of where I live (Twin Cities) and found only two 2001-6 Elantras with automatics for sale under $6000, each with over 100k miles. When I expanded the search to 500 miles, which includes WI, IA, and large cities like Chicago and Kansas City, there were 24 cars total, and 15 of them had under 100k miles--one had only 32k miles, another only 53k. So I'd say it's possible to find a car at your price, but it may not be easy. Also be prepared to jump immediately on a car if you find it... I've found through experience in recent months that cars of this kind go very fast.

    Another car you might look for is the 2004.5+ Spectra, which was a new design for 2004.5 (yes, weird I know) and drives much like the Elantra, and in fact has the same engine as the Elantra. I found a couple low-mileage Spectras (a 2005 and a 2006) within 500 miles of me when I did a search just now; one was a 2006 EX with only 35k miles.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,232
    Parts still back-ordered ..
  • dria24dria24 Posts: 32
    what do just call the dealer and set up appts, and tts is paid by Hyundai?
    thanks
  • dria24dria24 Posts: 32
    where do a get a list of recalls and techinical problems
  • dria24dria24 Posts: 32
    what do i have to do to get on the Recall list with the Hyundai dealrers, do I call anyone or is there a specific number to call. thanks
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,232
    You'll get a recall letter in the mail from Hyundai. From there, call any Hyundai dealer and set up an appointment for the recall work. They should know what you're talking about. The entire repair cost is paid for by Hyundai; your only cost is the time & inconvenience. If they need your car overnight or for an extended period you can usually get a free rental or loaner; this should be arranged by the dealer so all you do is sign & drive.

    If you don't get the recall letter from Hyundai it's possible your car isn't affected. That said, you can also call your dealer's service department, give them the VIN of your car, and they'll look it up (no charge) to see if there are any outstanding recalls.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,232
    Must have come in as her Elantra is now ready. We can't pick it up 'til Friday, though, as my wife took the loaner out of town to see her family.
  • nipunsharpnipunsharp Posts: 1
    I have the same problem, 2003 elantra, Its not the brake, i had rusted brake drum and they were rubbing against the brakes and made a faint sound, thought this was the reason of slowing down. I fixed it , changed the brakes, but it is still slowing, the reason is the transmission, when at the dealer, i tried to spin the front tire it was really hard because it is connected to the tranny. The rear tire were smooth. It is because of the transmission. i have to try change the tran fluid, and see if it works. I dont know why there is so much resistance in the tranny.
  • 2003 GLS 5M. 83K miles. It has been a good year - no problems. Only downside is appearance of 1/2" x 3" area of rusty blisters over the left rear wheel well. Also have an appointment scheduled for the subframe changeout. Come on Hyundai - you have a good product. Make it better by improving your corrosion protection. Still have original:

    Battery
    Rear Brakes
    Exhaust

    Granted the kids are all grown but the upholstery is as good as the day it left the showroom. Everyone seemed to hate the "airplane pattern" but I like it. At least on these little econoboxes the door panel had the fabric on it unlike the newer model. I'm hoping to keep the car for at lest another 2 years.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    edited June 2010
    My 2004 GT still has the original exhaust, but I replaced the rear brakes at about 45k and just replaced the battery. The car was starting OK, but at the last oil change the dealer said the battery tested weak, and with my son taking it to college in August, in MN, and parking it outside all the time and not driving it much, I figured $85 for a new battery was a good idea--six winters on the old one wasn't too bad. Had a hard time finding a replacement though--AutoZone had them in stock however.

    Re rust--no signs of rust on my '04 despite living in the Rust Belt, lots of road salt used here. The secret I think is frequent washing in the winter, plus touching up any nicks as soon as possible, and waxing of course. I am lucky that a local gas station has an all-cloth automatic wash that is only $5 for a basic wash with fillup. That is a godsend in the winter.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    Hey folks, I have an interesting dilemma. My airbag light came on recently, and after being checked out by my trusted mechanic, it has been determined that the passenger side seat-mounted airbag needs to be replaced. Why the airbag? Why not a connection or something else? Why would a never-deployed airbag go "bad" and need replacing? Dealer says the seatback needs replacing, and my mechanic said he'd look for a seatback in a salvage yard and use the airbag. Any thoughts on this? Has anyone else here had the light come on?

    Friday will mark 9 years with this sweet car, at nearly 105,000 miles (2001 GLS, 5 speed). Rust is making its way around the inner edges of the wheel wells and bubbling up a bit on the surface, and also at the rearmost edge of the rocker panel on the driver's side. Will have to decide on some bodywork soon, but otherwise this car has been soooooo very good. I'm quite pleased, and hope to have the same good service from the 2012 model I hope to buy. :)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    A friend had to replace an airbag in a Mitsubishi under the same conditions. He was told that the bag isn't the issue, but that the computer monitors the igniter resistance and if it falls outside of a pre-determined range, the light comes on and the bag (with the igniter) must be replaced. The thought behind this is that the igniter may not fire the bag explosive. A wreck would be a terrible time to determine you had a dud! :surprise:

    Durndest thing I had ever heard of!

    BTW, I assume the wiring under the seat was checked to make sure the harness hadn't been damaged or unplugged?
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    Thanks, jlflemmons ... I am not sure that the under-seat wiring was checked, but I can look for myself with a mirror and flashlight. I do know that nothing has been shoved under the seat to dislodge the wiring, but maybe it happened long ago and is just now loose enough to make a difference.

    Any ideas about how they know which airbag, or is it part of the OBD system?

    I can always put my passengers in the back seat. Or the trunk. ;-)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Had a back seat passenger lately? One who may have put their feet under the seat and dislodged the harness? A stretch, I know, but stranger things ...

    The airbag is a different system and cannot be read by a conventional OBDII scanner. A special scan tool is used for the airbag system, or at least it was on my buddies car.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    After last week's wash and vacuum, I noticed that the airbag light had gone out again. The seats get moved back and forth so that I can vacuum as much of the carpeting as possible, so I tried an experiment when I got home. With the engine running, I moved the passenger seat back and forth slowly, and sure enough, the light goes on and off accordingly. Now I need to get under there and find out which wire is the problem and WHAT the issue is -- corrosion, loose connection, etc.
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