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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006



  • tb88tb88 Posts: 242
    I live in Oakland County.
    I never said the price in Mich was 10,888 for auto... That price is in California; see previous intrepidspirit postings!
    Glassman Hyundai in Southfield has a good/large supply of Elantras, he may be ready to start dealing! Who knows!

  • av1998av1998 Posts: 7
    You know what ..... I would be willing to travel from Toledo up to Southfield, if Glassman Hyundai is willing to give the 3 of us(tb88, lelandc & av1998) a heck of a deal !! :) If you're speaking to them, you may leverage the multiple sale opportunity as a bargaining tool.
  • I wanted to post my recent problems with my 2001 GLS... since day one was a severe steering wheel shimmy that took 2 visits to the dealer. The first visit, they SAID the balanced the tires, but didnt...Second time, I watched them balance the tires. The shimmy is much less, but I can still feel it at times. My second problem which was fixed was a brake pulsation which a simple rotor resurfacing took care of. Next problem, was my check engine light went on at like 300 miles due to a bad canister valve. NOW, I need a new compressor. The a/c was weak idling and made a funny noise, I didn't really think anything of it but here I am at 1000 miles, and I had all these problems already! I am very disappointed. Does anyone have any advice?? Thanks!
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    No doubt 10-40 oil is allowed by Hyundai, I'm just bothered by the fact that it's use would violate the warranty on most other new cars out there. Viscosity improvers come at a price and that price is basic lubrication.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,681
    Advice? Keep on the dealer to fix the problems--looks like they've fixed 2 out of 4 so far. If the service department is ineffective, take it up the ladder--first to the customer service rep at the dealer (if they have one) or the dealership owner, then to Hyundai USA (your owner's manual has contact info).

    Re the 2 outstanding problems: looks like the service department is incapable of doing a proper wheel balance; others who have reported this problem got success after taking their Elantras to another shop, which did a proper balance. For the a/c problem: is it more than the noise and weakness when idling? Have you taken it into the dealer yet? The a/c unit does make a soft, high-pitched whine when the compressor starts; this is normal, but it might sound strange (it did to me at first). How weak does the a/c get at idle? Under what conditions, e.g. is this idling in traffic on a real hot day? Generally the Elantra's a/c is a strong unit, but a couple of other owners posted before about a drop in temperature under certain conditions, so it's worth having it checked out to see if indeed you need a new compressor or if there is some other problem.
  • perolafperolaf Posts: 5
    Hi, I'm looking at an Elantra as a work car for about 50 k/yr, mostly on the highway, with some stretches of rough road. Any thoughts on how the car will hold up under these conditions and how is the comfort for extended trips. I've had prior poor experience judging comfort from a short test drive. I think I can get one for about $12,700 after rebate with package 2 if the sales guy is being straight. Thanks for any advice.
  • steveb70steveb70 Posts: 15
    As I've said before, if I had one of these with the shimmy problem and it wasn't fixed on first attempt by the dealer, I'd take it to a mechanic I trust for a diagnosis. I'd then take it back to the dealer and ask them to fix XYZ part (or whatever your mechanic's diagnosis was).

    But, (this is a question for everyone) can't you take the car to any authorized Hyundai dealer for service?

    Did you test drive this particular car before buying it? I'd think you could have sensed the shimmy on a good test drive. I'm not faulting you by any means, but that might have helped.

    You also mentioned on another forum that the car pulls to one side or the other depending on the speed. What has the dealer said about this?

    Posts like yours does give me pause as I contemplate purchasing an '01 Elantra. My other choice is a used '00 Mazda Protege.

  • steveb70: Just wanted to put my .02 in since you mentioned that you are choosing between an Elantra and a Protege. While I have no firsthand experience with the Elantra I just purchased a 2001 Protege ES and absolutely love it.

    The car feels very well put together and has one of the best rides that I've ever felt even compared to my '01 Accord Coupe. I only have 700 miles on it so we'll see how it holds up compared to the Honda/Acura products I've owned. This is my first non-Honda purchase in 4 years.
  • steveb70steveb70 Posts: 15
    Thanks for the comments on your Protege. Actually, I've been monitoring the Protege board as well. The new ES is out of my price range, even though I really like what I hear about it.

    However, if I can find a 2000 ES (or even a '99?) with low miles and in solid condition, I'll probably go in that direction over the Elantra. These posts about the shimmy and other issues have me concerned.

  • I took my car in on Saturday for the shimmy, and I SAW them balance all 4 wheels. The shimmy was STILL there this morning. Then on my commute today, I notice if I put the car in neutral (automatic)and coast at 65MPH, the shimmy goes away!!! Also, There is this shaking sensation when I am going down a smooth road at 45MPH and that too goes away when I put it in neutral and coast. I think I have a problem with the transmission/driveline, but getting the dealer to duplicate the situation is very frustrating since they do not drive the car everyday and they want to duplicate the same results in a 10 minute test drive. I also noticed that during the first 15 minutes of driving, my transmission slips between 2nd and 3rd gear. This seems to go away after the car fully warms up, but nonetheless, it annoys me. My A/C was very weak. Whenever I came to a light, the temp coming from the vent would rise... it wouldn't get cold unless it was on the 1st or 2nd fan speed. I thought for sure the tech would use gauges to check the pressures, but he used this stethoscope thing and then said I needed a new compressor! So, im not paying for it, all it may really need is some freon, but hey, they're dime. I had an 2001 Accent before the Elantra, and I wanted something better. I am starting to regret my decision.
  • aquesadaaquesada Posts: 24
    Sorry about your decision, I have 3200 miles(3months) on my Elantra 01 with 0(zero) problems.
    For me there is no comparison between my Elantra and any other used car, when you by a used car you are buying what somebody else wants to get rid of.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    My Wife and I have a 99 Accent sedan and a 99 Elantra. I spend 3 hours a day in my Accent in my 100 mile a day commute to work. The Accent is good enough but I could use a little more leg and head room (6' 2"). Love the economy though. I have taken my Wifes Elantra on several long trips and found it to be VERY comfortable. I have driven for upto 4 hours between fillups without getting tired at all. The car has plenty of power and the cruise control and AC work great. On the highway I get about 30mpg. The car cruises great at 75MPH too. 25,000 miles trouble free so far. I have a good garage and tire shop nearby. They do my balancing and rotating every 7500 miles. We have never had any shimmy problems in our 99 Elantra, I guess this is a problem with the 2001 model. The 2001 model seems to be even nicer then the 1999/2000, so I would recomend the 2001 Elantra. Ours is an automatic by the way. One more thought, the 2001 Elantras have 15 inch tires the 1999/2000 models had 14 inch, could this contribute to the shimmy problem? Our 99 Elantra also has Michelin tires as standard equipment. As I recall only the automatic Elantras in 1999 and 2000 had the Michelins, the 5 speeds had Kumho or Hankook tires. I have heard a lot of BAD things about Hankook tires. The Kumho tires on my Accent lasted 56,000 miles. They seemed to start to lose their balance after about 5,000 miles or so and had to be rebalanced. My Accent started to shimmy pretty bad at 56,000 miles. It turned out the belt in one of the front tires started to separate. These were the Kumho tires that came as original equipment on my Accent. The tire didn't look bad but is was out of round. This happened during a long trip at high speed. I guess the Kumhos couldn't take the stress. Replaced the Kumho tires with a new set of Michelin MX-4's (birthday gift from my Wife, what can I say, she LOVES me) and the car has been smooth as glass since. I haven't had to do an alignment on either car yet.
  • bri70bri70 Posts: 147
    Well I guess I jinked myself when I suggested that most comments on the Elantra have not been major issues.

    This morning the 2000 Elantra did not want to start. Turn the ignition and nothing but a screeching sound came back. This lasted for more than a minute of trying. Finally after a horrendous screeching sound the engine turned. I am going to send it to the dealer to have it checked out. Before that, I was wondering if anyone else has any idea. The spark plugs were replaced a couple of months ago. I believe the battery is good. And I have been able to start the car a number of times since without a problem.

    Now my sister (who uses the car more than I do) wants to get rid of it. Trade it in for a used Toyota. What a joke. A little trouble and all the bad rep of Hyundai of yore starts causing her to panic.
  • From my previous post, about paying 15,495. I could have probably done better, according to the replies to my post. I live in Ohio, and the tax alone was $900. The Extended warranty was $1000 probably should have got the extended warranty down to $700. I can say this has been a learning experience for me, so I feel pretty happy with my purchase. I used the TMV numbers from to make the purchase. I didn't have any extended warranty numbers to work with so I was not going to go over a 1,000 for the extended coverage on any car. The next car I purchase I will have those facts in my back pocket to haggle them down. Thanks for the input folks.
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Posts: 1,339
    Why did you buy an extended warranty on a car that comes with a 10 year / 100K powertrain warranty? On top of that, you paid $1K for a warranty on a $15K car? Helloooo...
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    I note that some of you are recording sales tax as part of the price. This will skew and mislead comparison figures since each state does it differently. In Missouri, for instance, the sales tax for cars (only) follows the purchaser's residence and is not levied at the time of purchase but within thirty days (reminds me I've got to go down this week and stand in line). When some of you include sales tax and some don't it just gets confusing.

    I've only bought an extended warranty on one thing in my life, I got talked into it on an '86 Tempo. That was a good move since the Tempo was the most troublesome bucket of crap I've ever seen. Ford at that time had a guarantee that if you replaced any part twice they'd pay for it. Never knew so many things could go out once. For the most part, however, I'm a firm believer that an extended warranty is simply a way for the dealer to recoup some money. That applies whether its cars or dishwashers.
  • I bought the extended warranty because this car will be getting alot of miles on it and I did not want any gaps in coverage. Yes it has a 10 year 100,000 mile power train, but I wanted bumper to bumper coverage for this car extended. My wife will be the primary driver for this car and she commutes about 100 miles a day. If I never have to use the warranty I will be glad, but I feel better knowing its there if I need it. Even if I paid about $400 dollars to much for it. I feel if I start getting in trouble after 60,000 miles the warranty will pay for it self even though I have overlap on the power train coverage. We will be keeping this car at least 10 years if not more, and I would like to get about 200,000 miles out of it. But I appreciate all the feedback you folks have been giving me, it will really help on my next purchase.

    Thanks Jim.
  • I agree 100%. Tax is not negotiable and varies from state to state (and within state). If anyone includes it, the user of the information ends up removing it from the numbers.

    I know we all have to include tax in our total for personal budget purposes, but including it in comparisons is counter-productive -- it makes comparisons difficult.
  • browneybrowney Posts: 104
    I also have posted in the past about the perceived A/C issue. I brought my Elantra back to the dealer twice to be checked out and they said it works exactly as it should, and all Elantras work this way.
    The service manager personally drove my vehicle 80mi to test it out and also drove 2 other new Elantras on the lot for comparison.
    I did a bit of A/C research on the net and also purchased the shop repair manuals for the Elantra. I found that the Elantra uses an expansion valve type A/C system. (I have been told that most, if not all imports use this type of system) This valve, from what I have read, should control the cycling of the compressor to regulate the evaporator temperature. There is also a thermistor switch placed in between the coils of the evaporator that shuts off the compressor to prevent freezing.
    I have done a lot of testing on my vehicle and it seems that this thermistor is what is controling the temp inside my car. I have measured the exhaust vent temp at the dashboard and it varies between 34 deg f and 46 deg f with the revs held at 1500rpm and the outside air temp at about 80 deg f. This temp variation occurs about every 20-30 seconds and is caused by the compressor shutting off because the thermistor has shut it off to prevent freezing. (I have used a voltmeter to actually measure the thermistor shutting off the compressor)
    I could be wrong but I think the expansion valve is actually supposed to control the A/C and the thermistor is just a back up to prevent freezing.
    I had a co-worker drive me around in his new Nissan frontier to see what the A/C temp variation was for it, and it also cycled about 10-12 deg f. (so maybe this is normal?)
    The Hyundai Service manager said that a variation of up to 18 deg f is normal for this type of A/C system. He said his Honda Accord varies by this amount. They also measured the charge in the system and said it was within specs for the vehicle.
    So my fix has been to not point the exhaust vents directly at me so I don't notice when the air temp cycles and to keep the fan at 2 or higher.
    I also have had my Elantra in for the transmission slipping between 2nd and 3rd when cold. They found no problem in their test drive and said if there are no fault codes in the computer, 'there isn't any problem'.
    I have 4400mi on my vehicle now and that slip is still there every day.
    I expect that to get worse when the cold weather arrives in the south and that is when it will go back to the dealer again.
    Good luck with your service department and keep us posted if you actually able to get something repaired. ;-)
  • tb88tb88 Posts: 242
    I ended up buying the base Sonata, automatic, instead...
    I wonder how much they are selling for down there!
    No, I don't want to know...

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