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again, i reiterate, that they are withholding the name of the dealer so you dont go there and get it from them. its not an uncommon practice, but you should be aware just in case. also, check the VIN when the car gets there. if it starts with a '1', then it was never in a port at all, as thats an ohio car. a japan car will start with a 'J'.
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/0220.htm
I don't know for sure, but I would imagine the news release should be on Dateline tonight.
It has better "numbers" than an Altima, Camry, Passat and the Lexus IS300. Wow!
It's at www.wardsauto.com, but you have to subscribe to view the story. Or go out and buy the magazine.
Also, the new Accord continues as one of C/D's 10Best.
I don't understand your abreviations. I just got the EX-V6 with NAVI, with 1000 collision deduct, 500 comprehensive deduct, have no tickets or anything, and am paying 1480 a year on it. Anyone know if that's good or bad? I'm with Erie and am 23yrs old. Again, as I have a perfect driving record, perfect credit score (which sadly they now use), etc., any one got an idea what I should be paying (if diff. from my current rate), and companies to call?
"I have an insurance co. quoting me 250 deduc. for about 90/mo. 100/300 liabilities on my '03... full coverage."
What part of the country are you in? My dealer in Houston has not received any Nav-equipped cars yet.
Thanks
***
Yesterday, showed me the 2003 Accord EXV6 Sedan.
Based on my research on this car, I know the invoice is $23,215 with a 3% of MSRP ($25,800) manufacturer's holdback.
I am in market of buying this model with cash this month for my family. I will purchase one with less then 10 miles for $22,500 excluding only taxes and tag. I am not interested in any interior/exterior packages nor the wind deflector for the sunroof.
Please let me know if we have a deal.
I appreciate your time and I look forward to becoming part of the Honda family.
***
Don't expect insurance companies to change rates based on these crash results or chipped keys.
In a few years, if they have fewer injury claims, collision claims and theft claims, then they will think about lowering the rates.
Safer cars will get discounts. I remember reading about reduction in rates of some cars (including Civic, Integra and Accord) by a company due to reduced claims and lower risks.
1) Where you live
2) How much you drive
3) Your age/marital status
4) Driving record/Credit score
http://www.forbes.com/2002/12/09/cx_mf_1209test.html
i dont care what you buy the car for, but my recommendation is to leave the dealer at least a couple hundred in profit. if you beat them up, they will never be there for you if you need help. take dealer cost, decide what is a fair profit, and make that your offer. if you beat them up over a couple hundred dollars, you may be messing up potentially good service in the future.
just my $.02
Also they mentioned on C&D website "The Accord's secret has been a combination of solid construction, agile handling, optimal use of interior space, flawless ergonomics, and outstanding powertrains. Redesigned inside and out, the new Accord maintains those traditions and adds a bit of 21st-century flash with new LED instrument illumination."
Reread Bowke's post
but why would dealers give cars away for less that cost? Good luck. $24,000 is fair deal on EX V-6.
INKY
"Rounding out the new entrants to the 10 Best Engines list is Honda Motor Co. Ltd. and its power-rich 3L DOHC V-6 that propels the new-for-'03 Accord. At 240 hp, the new Accord V-6 is one of the most power-dense V-6s ever made for a production vehicle
Dealers may have more motivation to make a deal at the end of the year, but I doubt if they'll be motivated enough to sell that cheaply. I'd take a look at the Edmunds "TMV - True Market Value" for starters, and rethink the offer. Carsdirect.com can offer some pricing guidance as well.
Mentioning holdback, as Edmunds mentions, doesn't score you any points either. They know what they're making, they'll assume you know "enough," and don't need you sounding aggressive. As for what to send in a fax, here's a copy of what I used to contact dealers, and have posted earlier. Hope this helps... Alter as necessary.
To be sure we have no confusion I will address all my questions to you following the Carbargains outline I apply towards all dealers. I am willing and able to purchase the EX-V6 NAVI in Black with Birds Eye look trim, or Graphite Pearl as soon as I find a reasonable offer. I will not share your price with other dealers, nor will I agree to any sale until I have received from you in writing (email is acceptable) answers to the following questions.
I'm contacting each dealer on my list and asking what each wants as a markup or markdown from factory invoice cost. You have quoted me $25,479, plus $100. To be sure all quotes are on the same basis I need to go over with you exactly what charges show up on your out the door price. Is the it the $25,579 listed above or do you plan to add a dealer advertising fee, dealer prep fee, port charges, other miscellaneous charges. And how much do you plan to charge for each? You have stated you have no doc. fees, will there be any dealer add-ons you expect to charge for, wheel locks, ect., for which I have no interest? If you do not have above color will you exchange for it, or order it, and will you add a fee for that? For how long will your offer be valid?
My intent is to be as straight forward and honest with you as possible and avoid unnecessary confusion, I hope your answer to the above questions will bring us to the end of any necessary negotiations. Thank you for your time.
Someone earlier (jud95accord) asked where I got my NAVI. I got it at Jim Coleman in Clarksville, MD. It was a very good experience and I would recommend others in the area who are looking at least give them a shot. I went through internet salesman Johnathan Barnswell. I paid 25,579 for the EX-V6 NAVI, which I think is good. It may have helped that it was at the end of the month. Either way, the sales experience was still very pleasant and I have had good follow-up experiences with them since. So I'd ignore the earlier post about your service, pay what you want, just be as fair and straight with them as you would hope they will be. I sent my asking price, got thier offer in writing, and as stated in my email (and post above), I then came in that night ready to go. I did not then ask for any additions, as I wouldn't accept them doing the same. So be honest, but stick to your price.
Asking for numbers here is just too random - no industry is more fragmented and secretive about pricing than insurance. I could tell you what I pay, but so what? Get some quotes that are specific to your situation.
From now on when I take test drive, I'll not be over cautious and afraid extra wear on the new engine at full throttle.
I actually sat below and watched them do everything. Honda doesnt even let me on their shop floor.
I agree with you on one point though, I feel a Honda dealership has Honda parts that fit much better for oil changes. (But this is what some Honda mechanics told me)
Any comments from anyone?
I've always driven a manual so I'm happy with the 5sp. More people should consider this car. It's got the most bang for the buck and the dealers are selling them several hundreds below invoice... probably because the demand for 5sp is so low.
So many here are looking for the 6 cyl version. Be sure to test drive the 4 cyl version, I think you'll find it quite peppy enough. Be realistic, few people will push the car to it's limits on curvy mountain roads as the car reviewers for Car&Driver,
Road&Track, etc do.
The 4 cyl version is cheaper and gets better fuel economy.
While I'm at it, why buy the EX vs the LX? Sunroof? Although a sunroof is nice, I don't think it worth $800 or so when you only open it a couple times a year. Plus, I don't like the loss of headroom. The main feature an EX has is the rear disc brake, I'd like to have that.
Road&Track, etc do."
I felt the same way. In fact, I have read the magazines mention that the 4 cyl. is less nose heavy and better balanced thru the twisties.. As for LX vs. EX, I felt the EX did not have enough "must-have" items to justify the extra expense. And I like the reduced Bling-Bling factor of the bolt-on wheel covers versus alloys from a theft standpoint.
So after test drives we went with V6 and not because of power, but because it was significantly more quiet. We really wanted end up with I4 because it would safe CDN$3K and safe more on gas. But for family car we wanted one to be as quiet as possible. We looked at Camry, but with all options we wanted we would need XLE version which is $1500 more in 4 cyl version than Accord LX-V6. So, here we go. BTW, V6 is so SWEET.
4cyl and it runs great! It has plenty of pickup
speed in city traffic, controls beautifully, and I
get 27 mpg in the city. I paid invoice for it but
was charged $399 extra for the KARR system.
Has anyone had a similar experienc, paying
additionally for the KARR Security System,
model 4040?
EX adds "courtesy lighting" (very nice in a 5MT), Sunroof, Side Air Bags, Electronic Brake Distribution, Rear Disc Brakes, "upgraded cloth", 6disc changer, and I belive steering wheel audio controls or CC, not sure which and power up/dn for driver seat for about 2k
EX-L adds to the EX Leather interior, panels, etc. Dual A/C(g/f loves it, hopefully can get it next time) 8way power driver seat, ext. temp sensor, and heated seats for about 1300.
I would have easily gotten the EX-L, but when I was buying, there were no 5MT EX-L in the western states. So I settled for the EX. Perhaps later I will get a 5MT EX-L.
Was out jogging this AM and saw a Highlander roll by, and right up until the last second, assumed it was a Pilot.
If unique styling is what you're after, I guess the new Murano qualifies. Or at the other end of the spectrum, the Aztek...otherwise, they all pretty much look alike to me...
CRV is a Honda
Pilot is a Honda
Any make is going to have family resemblance.
also some trivia I just noticed. If you scroll to bottom of page, and press Ctrl + a, you can see some text string contain your user name and location id you normally wouldn't see, because they are the same color as background. (yeah it's useless, but interesting to know)
wow...neato trick
Anyway, as for which car, the RSX of Accord, I'd go Accord for several reasons. Just like with automatic, you can share a sedan easier, get more drunk friends in, get pulled over less, pay less, pay less insurance. It's funny you asked as the only reason I found the Accord was I was looking at the RSX and went to a Honda dealer to see if they had a used RSX. I instantly loved the Accord and stretched my budget to get one... and have no regrets! The Accord will be way faster, and yet I'd bet your insurance is cheaper. See, the auto RSX is 160hp, the Accord is either 160, or 240. I have the 240 and it flies, smooth as silk, and better sound system than you could get in the RSX, since for that you'd have to get the type S which is manual. Just drive the Accord by yourself, so you can put the pedal down, and you will buy it...