Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Older Honda Accords

1616617619621622647

Comments

  • The 05 EX belongs to my wife. She got it for Christmas, we went to pick it up and... ended up leaving for service on the first day because when the paper work was ready and we took it home we noticed the heating didn't work. It was Saturday night and we had to wait till Monday morning. We were told that something was not connected. It has worked since until today. Same problem. It's still under warranty 28K but has anyone experienced a similar problem? I have searched this forum and found nothing about the heating problem. Any response will be appreciated. Thank you. Sebastian of Chicago
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I never tried to make a claim in Honda's defense, I was just curious as to "why he warmed the car up." Nothing more.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Posts: 758
    Sorry thegrad, my post wasn't meant to be directed at you :)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Some owners' manuals do state that in extremely cold weather to allow the engine to warm up to a minute before driving off - mainly to allow enough heat to build so that warm air's available from the heater/defroster. But in general, I agree with you - start the engine and drive off gently once initial engine noise settles down. (Engines with hydraulic valve tappets may clatter briefly until oil pressure builds.) Doing that will warm the engine more quickly than allowing the engine to operate unloaded. Once the temp gauge needle comes off its peg under way, the car can be driven normally, though hard accelertion should still be avoided until the needle hits the quarter-warm mark. But some folks' habit of letting the car sit for five minutes or more "warming up" until the needle hits the midpoint after startup does more harm than good because the engine is running "rich" (high fuel to air ratio) most of that time. Routinely allowing a motor to idle rich causes fuel and soot dilution in the motor oil which in turn results in accelerated engine wear and sludge/varnish deposits.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,298
    If the engine turns over but doesn't catch, it does not sound like they will be tearing down or replacing the engine. If something broke inside, it wouldn't turn over!

    One thing that happens occasionally is a glitch in the imobilizer key system. If the car's brain decides that the key isn't correct, it can shut down or not start (although I am not sure if it would be dead vs. cranking but not starting).

    SOmetimes problmes like this can be difficult to track down, but very simple when they do (loose wire, bad ground, something like that). So, in terms of demanding a new car, give them a chance to diagnose and fix the problem, and make sure to carefully inspect the car (and take a test drive) when you get it back to make sure that nothing was screwed up in the process.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    This discussion has been reopened in accordance with this post: Sylvia, "Forums Software! Your Questions Answered..." #3319, 12 Nov 2006 2:43 pm. :)
  • deewofdeewof Posts: 11
    Talk about buyer's remorse ! ! I just traded my '03 Accord for an '06 Accord, both 4dr. sedans w/ same 244 hp V - 6. My statistical sampling is still quite limited, but so far, the 31+ hiway mpg I consistently got w/ the '03 is now a puny, paltry, 25.86, also mostly hiway. And when you factor in that I went from a 4 - speed to a 5 - speed automatic, this is hard to swallow. I'm prone to wonder if there might be a brake caliper sticking. Any plausible theories out there that might shed light on this baffling turn of events ? It may upset the oil co's., but I'd love to get a clue. Oh yeah, odometer readings: the '03 had 64,400, the '06 has 3,800.
  • spiff72spiff72 Posts: 179
    One possibility:

    The engine could still be breaking in...

    Also, what are the mileage figures according to the EPA for those vehicles? Are they essentially the same?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    A few things:

    Your 2003 did NOT have a 4-speed, all 2003-current model Accords have had 5-speed Automatics or manuals.

    You were getting great mileage on your old one; remember that as cars break in, mileage improves. Mine has improved about 2 MPG average on my 4-cylinder 2006 Accord since I purchased it. Started out getting 26-28 MPG, now I'm consistently at or above 30 MPG.

    Also, since you recently changed cars, gas companies have also recently started using their "winter" formulas, which lower mileage by about 10%, IIRC. You were likely getting those 30+ MPG numbers from summer-formula gasoline.

    The engines are NOT the exact same, in case you didn't know. Your 2003 had 240 horsepower, the 2006 has 244 horsepower (actually, the increase is closer to 10 horsepower, but new horsepower testing regulations hit at the same time as the horsepower bump - on the old scale, your new Accord would have 250 horsepower, Honda has said).

    Notice too, that with that increase in 10 horsepower, the EPA numbers on your window sticker dropped by one MPG each, from 21/30 to 20/29.

    All of these factors (mainly the winter gas and unbroken-in engine) are likely to blame for your reduced mileage.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Why did you trade the 03 for an 06? I get over 30mpg on the highway in my 03 V6. Hope you didn't trade the 03 just to get the new look 06 tail lights. You may want to jack the car up, turn each wheel by hand, and see if the emergency brakes may be dragging you down. Some people have complained that their rear pads are wearing prematurely, and I think dragging emergency brakes are the cause.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Check your tire pressures if you haven't done so. It's not unusual for new tires to lose a few pounds initially until their beads fully seat. Maintain at least the tire pressure your owner's manual or tire pressure decal on the driver's door specifies. Adjustments to pressure should always be made when the tires are cold - no more than three miles since cold start-off. Presumably you've checked motor oil and transaxle fluid levels extra closely during break-in, too.

    (elroy5, maybe deewof's '03 Accord's lease was up?)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    (elroy5, maybe deewof's '03 Accord's lease was up?)

    Or that poster could be like my dad who drives a 2005 Accord and has 67,000 miles on it already. By 4-years old, it will likely have 140,000 miles at this rate. I imagine he's getting ready to trade in his car soon (my dad). He rarely keeps a car over 70 or 80 thousand miles. (it's not that they've developed issues, he just wants something new by then).
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Please forgive me. I just assume everyone else buys a Honda for the same reason I do. Because they last a long time. It's all good though.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    That's why I wanted one (I plan to keep mine for a looooong time), but my dad likes the fact that it gets great mileage, has all the features he wants, and he likes the sporty/comfortable handling mix.
  • I took a short test drive of an 07 SE Accord and would like to know if a vibration in the brake pedal is "NORMAL". Also I noticed that it had the infamous pull to the right when you take your hands off the steering wheel for about 5 seconds. Fit and Finish was very good and power was very good. When putting it in Reverse it made a clicking noise anyone have this with your 07 Accord? Rear brakes sounded like they were scrubbing. Salesman said this is normal just the film of rust coming off the rear rotors! :confuse:
  • Also wanted to comment on the droon sound the engine makes when going about 38-40mph or about 1300-1600 rpm is this happening on your 06 or 07 Accord? This problem I thought was on the CIvic but it must be an Accord problem too! :confuse: :sick:
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    No, vibration in the brake pedal is not normal. The steering wheel will pull to the right a little, if the road is leaning to the right (for water runoff). Yes, you can hear the transmission when shifting from park to reverse or drive (this is normal for Accords all the way back to my 92 EX). I certainly haven't heard any scrubbing brakes on my Accord. I would not know about a drone noise, because I have a V6, and it is almost silent at any speed.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    )) Rear brakes sounded like they were scrubbing. Salesman said this is normal just the film of rust coming off the rear rotors! ... Also wanted to comment on the droon sound the engine makes when going about 38-40mph or about 1300-1600 rpm." ((

    If the car had been sitting quite a while - especially in damp weather, maybe there could've been a thick enough rust layer on the rear cast iron rotors to account for the scraping noise you noted. Also possible the parking brake hadn't been completely released. (Most cars with four wheel disc brakes use an auxilliary "top-hat" drum cast integrally with the hub of the rear rotors for parking brake service. Not Honda Accords. March-to-the-beat-of-a-different-drummer Honda uses a clever mechanical system to apply rear pad pressure directly against the rotor facings when the parking brake is set. The only other car I've owned that used a similar principle was a Peugeot 505.) The "droon" sound (? - is that anything like a "droning" sound?) in the range of 1300-1600 RPM - I'm guessing perhaps an exhaust and/or unsuppressed body shell resonance. At 38-40 mph, were you in 5th gear overdrive by any chance? If you were driving a car with the 2.4L I4 engine and manual transaxle, you might've been "crowding" the engine's low end torque if the engine speed dropped much under 2000 RPM while accelerating (or maintaining speed on an incline). If there was any bucking or ignition pinging, you were definitely lugging the engine.
  • I drove the car in the middle of the road and it still pulled to the right, the salesman said it was the crown of the road that causes the car to pull to the right. I disagree. These Hondas are out of alignment. As I let my hands off the steering wheel and count to 5 the car has already pulled to the white line and I have to steer it back to the center of the lane. The sound when I put it in reverse was as if the automatic door locks had just clicked in.This is when the car in still and I put the shifter in reverse. My 92 Accord has always clunked when putting the shifter in reverse this sound on the 07 was alot different.
  • The car had been setting and there was rust buildup on the rotors. The parking brake had been fully released. This car was an automatic and I misspelled droning or a deep bass note sound. Yes it was in 5th or it might have been in OD. Yes it was the 2.4I-4 auto. The droning sound the salesman conviently couldn't hear but assured if I bought the car their service department personnel would fix any problems I found. HA HA!! :surprise: :surprise:
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    3rd gear is direct drive. I think 4th & 5th gears are both overdrive ratios, but since it was an automatic, I doubt the torque converter lockup was engaged. I suspect a low RPM exhaust resonance under partial load. High crown roads will cause any car to pull to the right - and had it been safe to pull over the mid-divider line, suprise! - the car would've pulled to the left... However, in addition to the possibility of front wheel misalignment, low right front tire pressure could cause sufficient rolling resistance to also account for an exagerated pull to the right.
  • I went to a different dealer and drove another SE to compare and it has the same issues. The droning sound of being in too high a gear at 1200-1600rpms. I was test driving on long straightaways on roads with little traffic which allowed me to test it down the middle of the road and BOTH SE's had a significant pull to the right. The crown of the road isn't the cause, its the way these Accords are aligned at the factory. Anyway I don't think I would like to hear that sound day after day doing the driving that I have to do. I checked all 4 tires pressure before leaving the dealership and they were each different. 29-33 lbs.each.
    The guys are always surprised when they see me pull out the tire gauge and the thermometer for the a/c vent. The salesman said the pulsation/vibration in the brake is the antilock brakes telling me its safe to steer to the left or the right. Any COMMENTS??? ;)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Maybe you would be more satisfied with a Maybach, but I doubt it. You remind me of the guy who complained that the Accord doors did not stay open, when he parked his car on an incline. There is no such thing as the "perfect" car.
  • Don't buy the car if there is a droning noise that will bother you - it will drive you nuts. My $35k '06 Odyssey has a droning noise that cannot be fixed and I'm at my threshold with the car. It was too expensive for this B.S.

    I admit this is the first time hearing of this issue with the 4-cyl. You should have years of trouble free operation with that engine + trans setup (stay away from the V6's).

    It is also my experience that Honda Accords pull to the right based upon owning a 2003 & a co-worker's '03 LX. Our cars never could be aligned properly.

    After buying 2 new cars in the past 4 years, I came to the realization that the bulletproof Japanese cars built in the late 80's & early 90's (Honda & Toyota) will never exist again. Those cars only required gas & oil changes. I don't think there is a perfect car out there...you can only try to minimize buying problems with forums like this.

    Personally, my next new car will be a basic Accord or maybe the CRV LX. I've learned my lesson buying the top-of-the line models with inherently more reliability issues.

    IMO for the money, the 2007 Accord SE is probably the best sedan on the market right now. It is in its last year of production before the '08 redesign comes out & should have the major bugs worked out. Also, the 4-cyl Accords get great gas mileage.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I came to the realization that the bulletproof Japanese cars built in the late 80's & early 90's (Honda & Toyota) will never exist again.

    Excuse me, I own an 03 Accord EX V6, and I think it is much improved over previous generation Accords (no problems at all). The car is smoother, roomier, and more powerful than the Accords that came before it. What do you think is wrong with the V6 top of the line models? No bugs here.
  • "Excuse me", my '03 Accord EXV6 Had the following problems:

    1. Transmission failed at 45k miles.
    2. Front tie rod ends replaced around 40k miles (steering column jiggle).
    3. Rear struts blown & replaced around 40-45k miles.
    4. Side curtain airbags reinstalled around 10k (creaking noises).
    5. Headliner removed & replaced at delivery(ink marks from factory).
    6. Unresolved popping noises from front end (some reported defective welds).

    All were legitimate complaints acknowledged by the dealership. I traded the car in April but still have the piles of paperwork. So...I am justified in saying my car had bugs.

    Also, it is a known fact that V6 equipped Honda cars had defective transmissions. Didn't you take yours in for the oil jet recall? Keep your fingers crossed.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I hang around on many Honda web-sites, and these issues are not common. My car has been flawless from day one. The Honda Techs say the transmission recall has worked like a charm.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Posts: 758
    I keep a log of the mpg figures of my new 06 Accord VP, manual. It now has ~4K miles. The drop starting in early Nov might be due to the gas formulation change, or the starting rainy season in Seattle. Other than a few intermittent rattles, the car has been great. The oil life monitor says there's 60% life left.

    32 mpg 1st tank
    34.5 mpg break-in
    34.3 mpg break-in
    33 mpg
    33.2 mpg 10/21/2006
    34.2 mpg 10/28/2006
    31.8 mpg 11/5/2006
    32.5 mpg 11/13/2006
    32.8 mpg 11/22/2006
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    )) "Also wanted to comment on the droon sound the engine makes when going about 38-40mph or about 1300-1600 rpm is this happening on your 06 or 07 Accord?" ((

    Honda issued a service advisery in August of this year concerning a similar noise in some '05 Accords. Read the description below (or go to the linked URL above) and post if this sounds like what you experienced. Sounds to me like a few samples of current production are still arriving "haunted"...

    "Front Speakers Growl or Hum with Radio On or Off

    Got a ’05 Accord Hybrid with front audio speakers that growl, rumble, boom, or hum whether the radio is turned on or off? A bad active noise cancellation (ANC) unit could be the culprit. You only hear this noise when the ECO (fuel economy) indicator is on. And you’re most likely to hear it when you’re going between 30 and 60 mph (with the A/T in 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear), the engine is running between 1,600 and 1,800 rpm, or both. To fix this problem, refer to S/B 06-005, Humming or Booming Comes From the Speakers, and replace the ANC unit and both front speakers."
  • w9cww9cw Posts: 888
    I know this is trivial, but what trim level (LX, SE, EX, etc.) of the Accord offers the finished underside of the trunk lid. By "finished" I mean a covering similar that's used in the trunk itself, and not simply the painted steel underside of the trunk lid.

    Honda's website is absolutely no help in this, as all of its gallery photos are of the EX-L. And, believe it or not, I just called a Honda dealer, and they couldn't answer my question either - which, I must say, is rather shocking.
Sign In or Register to comment.