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Mazda Millenia

19798100102103127

Comments

  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Posts: 1,704
    I am going to look at an '02 Millenia (Premium) today. This car has 29k miles and is a one-owner vehicle. I'm just curious: Do the Millenia 2.5s have hydraulic valve lifters, or the solid versions in which adjustment is needed? I ask because my '93 Volvo has hydraulic lifters and I understand that the 2.5 used in 1998-02 626s has solid lifters. Instinct tells me the Millenia's are hydraulic.
  • Just bought 4 new Dunlop SP 5000 tires. What a difference! Cost $860 at Sears with road hazard warranty and alignment. Still had two of the originals. Have had many tire problems due to potholes during New England winters. The 17 inch tires are not very forgiving.

    No mechanical problems since I purchased it,except sometimes the gas lid won't open on the first try and the cd player has issues. That's Bose's problem not Mazda's problem.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    Try bending a little the spring that releases the lid. You need to bend it (counterintuitively) inward rather than outward.
    Hope this helps,
    Tomek
  • Started my '02P with 30,500 miles yesterday morning, the engine worked as it was choking, CEL started flashing, but then the light went steady and the engine resumed its normal operation. However the CEL is on now. I took the car to the local Mazda dealer which provided a rental car. He stated that Mazda changed its policy lately and will pay for rental car only if it is something that is covered by Mazda's warranty, not if malfunctioning is caused by improper operation by car's owner. I strongly believe that the repair should be covered by 45K 3-year bumper-bumper warranty as well as the car rental, but who knows.

    He also reminded me about 30,000 mi scheduled maintenance which was due 500 miles ago - $450. The maintenance includes replacing virtually all fluids in the car (except gasoline:-) - transmission, coolant, break, power steering, etc. I also contacted local Goodyear store, and they said that the 30K scheduled maintenance for MM does not necessarily mean replacing all fluids. It requires fluid checkup (also found in MM manual), but not replacement, and the Goodyear charges only for the replaced fluids, which compared to Mazda dealer is still much cheaper.

    Does work performed by shop other than Mazda voids the warranty? Does it mean that if Goodyear finds all fluids in good condition and replaces engine oil only, and something happens to the transmission before the warranty expires, I still will not be able to repair the transmission under warranty?

    I will let you know about the cause of CEL. BTW, I had the CEL on about 6 months ago - turned out the knock sensor was bad. The interesting thing is that CEL came on at both times (6 months ago and yesterday) after I washed my car (externally only). I am not sure what it is now, but I hope the car will be trouble free after the warranty expires in 03/05.
  • Hi everyone, not much going on these days which probably means we're all happy with our Millys.

    I've already installed my Alpine CDA7893 + brand
    new Boston speakers. I will now install an amp + sub.
    I'm at the stage of passing the main lead from the
    battery through the firewall.
    My problem is that i'm trying to locate a "passage" for it. What is the best way of doing it?
    The "S" engine compartment is pretty "busy" & very difficult to locate anything. Maybe some you have already done this? Anything will help!
    Thanks!
  • Picked up my MM this morning. Dealer explained that the CEL was on because they found a disconnected vacuum hose. "It is very much likely that the hose was accidently disconnected during the last oil change" - stated the dealer. Sounds weird since the last oil change was performed by Jiffy Lube 3 months ago, and the CEL flashed last Sunday. However, the CEL is off now, engine works as it suppose to, and dealer did not charge a dime for diagnostic, except I had to pay for one day car rental - $25.00. Thanks to D. Dahle Mazda at Murray, UT!
  • Actually had a similar thing happen to my 98 S; a vacuum hose was disconnected and caused the CEL to go on. When the Tech repaired it, apparently he bumped a few other plastic "T" connectors on the vacuum lines which caused them to snap and the light went on again on the ride home. The service manager was embarrassed and ended up replacing 3 lines & "T" fittings as a precautionary measure for no additional charge. I guess the plastic used is not that high of a quality and the heat from the engine makes it brittle and succeptable to breakage. Problem is, the line connections and the lines themselves are not easy to see/find so an otherwise simple DIY task becomes difficult.
  • I have a 2001 MMS with 15k miles. A rattle has developed in the front passenger door, although I cannot pinpont exactly where it is coming from. It sounds like metal against metal, as if something is loose inside the door. It does not happen all the time, and not always on bumpy roads. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • My experience has been that Millenias are "tight" and free of rattles (almost 90K on '98 Mill. S). I assume you have already checked for anything deep in the map pocket. If it really drives you crazy, you could try to remove the door panel and see if you can identify the source of the noise. I have done this before - you must be real careful with the clips not to damage them.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    From the drivers seat it seemed like I had a rattle in the passenger door on my '01 MMP.

    As it turned out, it was a pencil style tire gauge in the glove box. I turned it end for end, and voila, silence. Hope yours is that simple.

    Otherwise you do have a 39 month 50000 mile bumper to bumper warranty (if my memory serves me well) which may still be in effect depending on your purchase date. Check that and if it has not run out, head for your Mazda dealer and let them worry about the noise. I have what appears to be a small crack in the right rear wheel (painted not chrome) where one of the lugnuts goes. I need to get to the dealer and have that checked before mine expires in December.

    Good luck.
  • There is one thing you need to check before taking the passenger door apart: make sure the rattle comes from the passenger side. I know it sounds weird, but I had annoying noise coming from the passenger side of my '02 Millenia. I checked everything on that side for possible cause and could not find anything. The noise was driving me crazy. One day while driving I slowly moved my head to the point where the noise was coming from (passenger side). Suddenly I realized that the noise is coming from the driver side when my ears moved to the passenger side. Turned out the noise was coming from the garage door opener mounted on the driver side visor... Sometimes you may get confused because of reflection of rattles, noises, etc. from windows and other interior materials of the vehicle.
  • Thanks to everyone for your help. For the last two days the rattle has stopped. And this morning it was back. How frustrating! I will double check the glove compartment and everything else to see what it could be.
  • I must admit I've lost my manual, but I believed my 99 Millenia needed a timing belt at 60,000 miles, was I right on this?
    The total bill was $950.00 and that's without plugs!!!
    Youch!
  • I've been looking at eBay to check prices on Millenia S (thinking about selling mine). Does anyone know of any other good places to sell a Millenia in particular? That is, other than newspaper classified ads?

    Note to pat - in the interest of maintaining the integrity of the board, I will not respond to anyone asking for details about the car. This is not meant to be a veiled ad. Thanks!
  • eBay is a known good place to sell anything, but cars (IMO). From my experience the best one is Autotrader.com. I have been successful in selling two cars in the past on Autotrader.com when I was not able to sell them on eBay nor through local newspaper.
  • So did the 99 Mazda Millenia S come with 100,000 mile Platinum Plugs?
    I got the tuneup (see above) and when I questioned why they didn't change the plugs they claimed they're platinum. Not according to my manual, it calls for new plugs at 60,000.
    Does anyone know? I need to dispute this while it's still fresh.
    Thanks
  • With my car I think it's a condensation problem, as soon as the air in the cabin warms up (usually the amount of time it takes me to get to work, 20 min) it seems to start working.
    (Of course for the last 20 min I've been repeatedly pushing the damn CD back in, should listen to the radio in the morn).
  • Thanks! I just checked it out. Some cars are for sale via auction, but I could not figure out how to list my car for auction. Did you just place an ad, or auction?
  • I just placed an ad in Autotrader.com since I had no luck with selling my cars on largest internet auction - eBay. As far as I remember, the full package with multiple pictures is $45, and the ad runs until it sells. I had more phone calls and emails than when I tried to sell the cars through local newspaper or on eBay.

    BE CAREFUL on Autotrader when someone contacts you from outside of US - it is a pure spam. My friend almost lost $6,000(!) when someone contacted him from Nigeria and offered full price for his vehicle, sent Cashiers Check for sum exceeding the purchase price by $6,000, and asked to wire the difference to Canada. Thanks to Western Union for triggering an alarm when my friend wired $6,000, although they kept $600 service fee, but saved him $6,000. Turned out it was a fake Cashiers Check, and the local bank did not even notice while depositing it into friend’s account.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Pretty much that same scenario happened in the bank where my wife works.

    The big difference was that a teller accepted the "Cashier Check" and it cost the bank the $6000 to cover it. In turn it cost the 20 year employee her job because the person who cashed the check was a good customer known to her, who had "sold" their vehicle to someone in Nigeria and she did not put a hold on that check.

    This is a common fraud.
  • lashlarue, it seems your dealership is selectively doing the manufacturer's recommendations by asking you to do the timing belt service, but neglecting to change the plugs at 60k. As you determined when settling up with the bill, the timing belt service is a lucrative job for dealerships and probably they did not want to do the extra labor to change the plugs since they are so difficult to reach. In reality, most platinum plugs are fine up to 100k miles, so you probably don't need it. Additionally, Mazda is inconsistent in its recommendation for timing belt changes. Because of consumer advocate laws protecting car owners from expensive "built-in" service charges over a reasonable lifetime of a vehicle in Massachussettes and California, Mazda recommends the timing belt changed at 105k miles in CA. Funny thing is that this is the exact same engine and belt used in all 50 states, so how can it be a 60k mile change interval in 48 states and 105k in two? I plan to change my belt at 100k and change the plugs & other fluids at this time. I currently have about 85k miles with no problems. The only risk you have if the belt breaks on this engine is that you are stranded and have to be towed to the nearest service center - no permanent damage to the engine will occur. Of course, changing the belt every 60k mile reduces the probability of this occurring. Changing every 30k miles would reduce this even further, but when is enough enough?
  • Two years ago, I purchased Millenia S. Now have about 46,000 miles, no mechanical problems except gas lid doesn't always open on first try (will try the suggestion made above) and Bose CD is acting up. When I see others on this board with major problems, RX-8, Chrysler Pacifica, etc., it makes me glad I purchased it.

    Very happy and with the new Dunlop tires it seems likes it brand new. Still love the sand mica color especially at twilight. No rattles or squeaks and suspension is still excellent. Now getting about 23 mpg since my commute changed last year (up from 20-21 mpg) and 25 mpg on long trips at very aggressive speeds.

    Hasn't been cheap to operate since I twice hit objects and someone hit me and I have had major problems with the tires due to our crappy roads and potholes in MA and tire installation problems. Just brought it in for slow leaks, 6 weeks after I purchased the tires. The seal wasn't good on both front tires. My understanding is that the rim has to be perfectly clean to obtain a proper seal. Premium gas is expensive also.

    Everyone complains about the 60K service but the dealer charged me over $400 for the 30K service. Should have asked but didn't because I expected it to be reasonable. Won't go back to that dealer.

    Probably need brakes soon, will need inspection in October.

    Strongly recommend it.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    Slingshot,
    be careful with the brakes - go in earlier rather than later. I had mine done at 44K miles of Boston traffic, and I only had to replace the pads, for ~$220. I was told if I waited 4-6K miles longer I'd have to do the rotors, too - and that is more like $600+
    Just my $0.02
    Tomek
  • You may not be aware of this, but Mazda uses a ceramic brake pad material from the factory on the Millenia S. This material provides superior braking performance and is normally offered only on performance cars. If you price out this type of material at auto stores, you are paying anywhere from $40-100 for this vs. the $19.95 basic pad. In this light, $220 is not gouging. Remember, Mazda designed this car to compete with Lexus and Infinity, so there is some not-so-obvious engineering enhancements (such as ceramic brakes) which may cost slightly more than your average Honda to fix; but you are also getting a tight,well-designed car for the money. I have almost 90k miles on my '98 S and the car still drives tight and looks great with the "high impact" pearl metallic white paint! At 100K I plan to do the timing belt (first time), coolant flush, tranny flush (I do both of these every 50k miles), plugs, valve cover gaskets, and water pump (for good measure). This will be an expensive service, but still cheaper than 4-5 months payment on a new car and I hope it will go another 100k.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    I didn't think $220 for pads was bad ... I only was making the point to go in early for this service to avoid rotor replacement, which at $600+ is not for the faint of the hart. Pads and rotors on my wife's van - Chevy Venture, after 54K miles, were $330...
  • I had my car inspected last Saturday and the brakes were okay. However, as my family owns three NAPA stores, I will probably be getting new brakes shortly. Can't beat the price! I will have one of our customer mechanics take a look at the brakes. I think I read on this forum that the NAPA replacement pads are ceramic. Its amazing that the Mazda pads have lasted so long, 48,500 miles so far, given the heavy stop and go traffic that I drove in during the first year of ownership. My current commute is much better but there is still some stop and go traffic.

    I recently saw, I believe on Intellichoice, that they rated the Millenia S as having major potential engine problems due to the potential failure of the oil seals which cost about $4,200 to replace. If this is true is there any preventive maintenance that can be performed on the oil seals?
  • I've had issues with my dealer regarding my '00 S
    fuel consumption. I rarely get better than 18/19
    mpg combined city/highway.I must say that i do not abuse the car apart from a few 1 or 2 hours long trips on the freeway where i would from time to time drive it well over the speed limit.
    I read on previous posts that some you get 24/25 mpg!!!??? How do i get to this efficiency?
    Tire pressure is checked every week, K & N air filter, synthetic oil etc...
    My dealer tells me " are you sure you're not kicking the living crap out your engine?" jokingly of course but we can all read between the lines.
    Maybe you guys have answers for me!
    Appreciated.
  • dewwdeww Posts: 12
    My engine light is on on my Mazda Millenia and I have taken it to 3 different Mazda Dealerships and have recieved 3 different responses. They range from senors, to tune-up to catalytic converters. Can someone please help me? I took it to AutoZone and they pulled a tune-up or catalytic codes. I have 95000 miles on it. It is a 2000 Mazda Millenia S. If anyone can help, I would be grateful.

    Thanks
  • dewwdeww Posts: 12
    I'm having the same problem with my Mazda. What did you do to fix the problem with the engine light?
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