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Mazda Millenia

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Comments

  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I would check with the dealer first to see if the alignment is covered under the warranty. This use to be the big complaint with all manufactures is that you would buy a new car and the alignment was out then take it back to the dealer and they would say you caused the problem therefore it is normal wear and you would have to pay for it because it is not a manufacturing problem. I do not know if they still do this but check first to possibly save yourself a shock.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    covers alignment in the first 12 months of the warranty. This is common for most manufacturers.
  • I've thought the MM was a great looking car since they first came out. But too rich for my wallet. Funny how things change. Three weeks back, my wife & I started the test drives to pick out a new car. We tried Altima, Maxima, Passat and a used 2002 MM-S with 9700 miles and all the options. There were other cars on my list to test, but my wife said there was no point. She wanted the MM. The dealer wanted $19,900, but told me they had a 2002 MM-S SE enroute that had suffered some damage, and could not be sold as "NEW". The damage was supposed to be one of the tow hooks that the car is secured to the transport trailer with, had been damaged because too much force had been applied to it. And this damage had been repaired. This may be some dealer song & dance I was falling for, but they said I could have the car for $22K. I figured for $2100 extra, I'd take the new car over the used one.
    Once the car arrived though, things were not quite as stated. There was no damage, but there was 2900 miles on it. I really wanted the car. It has every option, and is perfect. To make things right over the mystery milage, the dealer tossed in a 6 year 100,000 warranty.
    Only had it a few days, but I love it. So much more for the money than anything in it's class.
  • I guess I forgot to say that I am out of the warranty in regards to alignment because I have 17,000 miles on the car. The warranty is 12 months/12,000 miles.

    Anyways, I took the car back to the Petaluma shop and what they did was switch the two front tires. And what happened---the car began pulling to the otherside. THE PROBLEM IS THE WHEEL. Well, I asked them to switch the front wheels with the rear wheels. I haven't tested it on the freeway yet (which is where I really felt the problem), but I believe it still pulls.

    My question now is, any chance I can call Michelin Tires and complain saying that it is a defect? Any comments, advice, suggestions would be most appreciated.

    Michael
  • ziggiziggi Posts: 4
    I recently bought a 97 Millenia L and have noticed that the engine turns faster at 60mph than my 97 Camry (2650rpm vs. 2150rpm). Would this affect the ultimate life of the engine? I remember reading somewhere that Mazda lowered the final drive ratio after '95 to improve performance. Does anybody know what engine-drivetrain changes have taken place over the years from 95-02 ?
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    Is the problem the tire or the wheel? If it is the wheel, provided you have not bounced it off a curb or damaged it, it should be covered under the warranty. If it is the tire it never hurts to complain though they will probable pro rate the tire.
  • Hello everyone. Im comming here from the Isuzu Rodeo TownHall. I've been eying the Millenia now for a while now but what gets me is that some people are saying that they paid about 21,000 for the P. Around here in Illinois the prices are in the 24's. What gives? I love this car but is 24 and change too much? Going out tomorow for a test drive!
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    Sure 24 K for a P is too much, in Boston they're now advertised (whatever is left) at 20.6K - definitely under 21K. An S should run you 25K (I paid 26 for my '01S in July 2001).
    Tomek
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Ignore any advertised price. Go to a car dealer with the attitude that you are the customer, and you are in charge of the negotiation process. Also never act as if you really want a particular car. There is always another one down the street. When the dealer or salesman tries to run things take command and give him your take it or leave it deal. If they say no, so what. Go to another dealer.

    If asked what it will take to get you to buy today, give them your rock bottom offer. In this case about $21000 total for a MM P or about $23000 OUT THE DOOR. Don't be angry or threatening, just firm.

    Before you go, get to know the dealer incentives, customer incentives, MSRP (ignore that figure), dealer invoice and all other figures concerning the car so they can't pull the wool over your eyes with a line of bs. They also have a holdback they won't tell you about. All this is available on the internet. Print it out in case you want to show it to them.

    You may have to walk away from two or three salemen, but do it. Never sit and wait more than 10 minutes for a saleman to go to the SalesManager for approval. If he is gone that long walk toward the door as if to leave, he'll cut you off at the pass to keep you from leaving. That is part of their little game. You will get your deal if you just take a little time and persist. Never forget you are the customer. Salesmen can't seem to grasp that concept without being gently reminded of that fact.

    Happy car shopping and enjoy your new $21000 MMP.
  • Which one would be better to get I have seen both of these cars advertised for around the same price. My max I want to spend is around 15k. The millenia seems a hell of a lot bigger, but the g20 seems like its more reliable and less maintenance. The repairs on the millenia when it does break down is through the roof. I am leaning on the g20 but it seems I can get a lot more car on a millenia.
    What do you guys think pros on cons on both cars, please try to give me some objective responses.
    Thanks
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    good info on how not to buy a car.
  • I have a 99 Millenia S. It pulled to one direction from the day I purchased it(new). The dealer did a couple of alignments, and then said I had a radial tire pull. At that point, I had to go to a tire dealer (Big O) for the tire warranty. They couldn't find the bad tire, and replaced one at random to get rid of me. The car didn't pull anymore until I rotated the tires. I then unrotated them and wore them out. I then purchaced new tires all the way around and haven't had a problem since.

    Are you sure about your warranty? It should go to 3 yr/36k miles? At least that is what mine was.

    Good luck,
    Bob
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    "good info on how not to buy a car."

    You might be right if you want to pay too much. I've bought about 20 that way and it has worked very well.
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    I'm not saying it doesnt work for you...but being confrontational is not the best way for most people to get a fair deal.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    " Don't be angry or threatening, just firm."

    Please take note of that from my post. I did not advocate being confrontational. Only to not allow yourself to be run over by high pressure salespeople, which includes almost all of them, and keep yourself in control of the negotiations. They are trained to take advantage of any weakness you might show, so you have to be equally prepared to resist their sales pitch. I have had to actually walk away from some very beligerant salespeople to avoid a major argument. Before buying my newest car, my '01 MM, a Nissan salesman stood between me and the door and told me "you are not going to go to another dealer and tell them our deal". I of course walked out on him and never went back. Not all salespeople will do that, but almost all will lie, or if you prefer twist the truth in order to get your signature on that contract.

    I stick by my recommendation as to how to buy that new car.
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    again, I say it's fine if it works for you...but very few car buyers are able to do what you advocate...I got no problem with a consumer using simple techniques to avoid the pushy salestypes...I am a hard closer so I know exactly what your trying to avoid. :)

    When a consumer is firm, thats fine as long as they are in the know and are realistic with their offers, like you seem to be. Short deal but do-able... But reality in the car biz is this...when people don't get what they want they usually resort to hissy fits or some sort. haha
    Thus your way of car buying quickly becomes confrontational.

    Had it happen today. I told a person "NO thank you I will pass on your offer"...and you should have seen how hysterical they got. You would stand up and say thank you but no deal and we would part as friends...but many buyers act like a first graders when they are told NO...haha
  • I don't know how it is over there, but here in SoCal, almost every dealership has a fleet person or internet department. Call them/email them for no-haggle price. Usually you will get a much better price than trying to haggle with a salesperson.

    Good Luck.

    BTW, fwatson is right, aim for about $21K for Millenia P and $25 for the S model. $22 is a bit much.
  • ziggiziggi Posts: 4
    I bought a used 97L recently and was given one key. Before I start looking for a remote transmitter, I need to know if my car even has a remote receiver. Does anybody know how I can tell that?
    Thanks..
  • ziggiziggi Posts: 4
    I have read on this board that the 6-K service is quite pricy (>$1000). Perhaps one can save money by doing some of the work at home. Does anybody know what exactly is done at 60K miles?
  • ziggiziggi Posts: 4
    Some of the problems articulated on this board are quite scary for a new owner of a 97L. Does anybody have good stories of achieving high mileage 100K-200K with no problems at all??
    Just looking for some balance :-)
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