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Mazda Millenia

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  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Claudev, click on this link and post your message there also: Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles.

    I hope we can help.
  • if the non-s has 18,000 miles on it go with that, only get the S if it has very low miles, or if it has the service records of everything done to it i.e routine service ect, you dont want the S if it hasnt been pretty much babied
  • I recently purchased a '98 S with 70k. I purchased it from an individual who had purchased it as a certified pre-owned at 28k. The car seemed to run good and he had pretty extensive maintenace records, so I felt pretty good about the purchase. After purchasing the care I checked this forum (other resources appear to be sparse) to see what potential issues could arrise. I started getting a little nervous about all the CEL issues folks were having. I have not had a CEL occurence yet, but I have only put about 300 miles on the car. The previous owner did have both catalysts and at least one O2 sensor replaced at 60k. I assume this would have been prompted by CEL issues.

    After reading about the issues with oil seeping into the plug wells, I decided to check mine. Boy what a job that is, especially on the rear bank!!! Luckily, only one of the wells had any accumulated oil and it was on the front. I figure I can just drain it out and clean it every once in a while as opposed to replacing the valve cover gaskets.

    In the week that I have been driving the car, I have found the following problems:

    1. The in-dash CD player does not work. Initially, I thought this was no big deal because I also have the changer. The problem is that the in-dash keeps spitting out the CD, which to the best of my knowledge leaves the changer inoperable also. Also, I have noticed that when the vehicle interior is cold that the radio keeps beeping like someone is holding in one of the numbered buttons to program a radio station.

    2. I get a little bit of hesitation under light throttle cruise or acceleration. The car seems to stutter a bit and if I give it more pedal while it is doing this there is a delay before it starts to accelerate. If I jump on the throttle from idle the car pulls nicely and runs smoothly.

    3. This is the most worrysome. My fuel economy appears to be very poor. I have put mostly highway miles on the car and I can litterly watch the gage drop as I commute to work and back. I haven't quite run through my first full tank, but I am estimating that I will get less than 250 out of it. Unless the fuel gage in this vehicle is not very linear, then I am afraid that my consumption is excessive. I have not been running the car very hard, so I would anticipate decent fuel economy. I guess I won't know for sure until I run a couple of tanks through it.

    If anyone has experience with any of these issues, please reply with suggestions, especially the FE issue. My best guess for the FE issue was a boost pressure or mass airflow sensor. Since I haven't had any CELs I can't tell for sure. I thought maybe I would replace them both and see if the mileage improved, but once I checked the prices I thought no way. Wow, expensive! I guess that's what I get for buying the only production miller cycle engine in the US.

    I have the following questions:

    1. I notice a hiss under the hood while the car is idling. It sounds like an air leak. I don't know if the car has some sort of pressure relief valve for the supercharge or not. Is this hiss normal, or do I have an air leak?

    2. Does anyone have experience with the Chilton manual for this car? I was considering purchasing it, but it includes several Mazda models so I wonder how good the detail for the 2.3 engine is. Should I buy it or just spend the extra money to get the shop manuals.

    3. Is anyone aware of other online resources for the miller cycle engine? I have done a couple of google searches and have come up mostly empty. I used to own a '91 Sentra SE-R and the online enthusiast resources for it were outstanding. This doesn't seem to be the case for the Millenia S.

    Thanks in advance for any info. Sorry for the lengthy post.

    3.
  • I BOUGHT IT WIHT 83000 MILES. THE LOOKS WAS WHAT MADE FALL FOR IT. BIG MISTAKE! THE CAR HAS GIVEN ME ALL KIND OF PROBLEMS, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WENT ON THE SECOND DAY I BOUHT IT. THE MECHANICS GAVE 3 CODE NUMBERS. I COULD NEVER FIX THE PROBLEM, LAST MONTH THE TRANSMISSION REFUSED TO SHIFT GEARS. REPAIR COST $ 2200.YESTERDAY THE THE TCS GOES OFF IF ACCELERATED OR WHEN THE ENGINE GOES MORE 2500 RPM. CAN SOMEBODY GIVE ME A CLUE WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?
    HASD ANYBODY HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM?
    WHAT IS TCS? MY CAR LOSES TRACTION WHEN IT HAPPENS, I CAN'T GO OVER 50 MILES PER HOUR, BECAUSE IT HAPPENS.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    JMARTINEZ, the TCS stands for your "traction control system".

    IWANNAWAGON, the slight hesitation in acceleration is a norm for the S. This has been talked about for years by S owners. The mpg has tended to have a wide range for S owners. People have been getting anything between 16 - 24 mpg in town. I tend to get 23 - 24 mpg in town but that appears to be the exception. EPA sticker was saying 20 mpg in town and 27 highway. I tend to get 26 - 27 on highway doing 75 to 80 mph. The hiss sound is not normal. People have talked about vacuum leaks in hoses or the plastic tees cracking, this might be a cause for bad mpg's. The problem with the CD player has come up more often in the last year or two so you might want to search that topic on this site. The repair manual will probably not be worth your money unless you plan on doing work on this car yourself. I bought the shop manual and for the cost it may not be worth the expense.
  • pcfigpcfig Posts: 13
    Well,this is written in empathy for you.Very similar story,bought my '99 S(93k)from stealership after 2 test drives and 2wks. negotiations.Got great deal.....I thought!$5500.
    CEL on 20 miles after purchase(Catalytic converter,bank 1&2),
    transmission slips completly out of gear shifting into 3rd when cold,manually shift into 2nd and "putt along".
    Hoping trans tune-up with new filter will cure this.
    Have mixed emotions about this car,the cat seems to not be a problem as car idles,runs and acclerates fine and in MI we have no emissions testing.
    If trans tune-up cures slip i am good.
    But appears to be numerous common problems on the horizon,perhaps i will get lucky.
    i bought this as my winter/luxury car,in summer and good weather i drive a sweet 3000GT.
    So time will tell for me and hopefully you and i will look back in 5yrs. and say it was a good car.......doubt it!!
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    You might want to replace the PCV valve and also check for a vacuum leak.
  • Please help with any suggestions:
    165k
    Here's the symptoms for my 95 Millenia which I owned for 20 minutes before the following happened:
    1) Engine light came on and stayed on.
    2) "TCS OFF" light is displayed
    3) Car stalled out while driving between 35-45mph. Refused to turn over and instrument panel flickered even after taking key out of the ignition (battery cable on + post was loose and may have caused flickering).
    4) Disconnected Pos. (+) post for 20 seconds.
    5) Electrical power seemed full but car wouldn't turn over. Parked car for 45 minutes.
    6) Returned to car, turned ignition with a start on FIRST TRY.
    7) AutoZone gave me the following codes: P1000, P1195, P1601
    8) Written display on reader: MANF FUEL AIR METERING AUXILLARY EMMISSION CONTROL.

    Can anyone suggest what they would do to begin correcting these concerns?
  • jlkiljlkil Posts: 18
    My son has a '95 Millena which the engine just locked up. A local mechanic has removed all the belts and tells me the engine is seized and replacing it over his capabilities, he suggests tossing the car. However, I'm considering purchasing a new engine; has anyone done this before and where is a good source for an engine? If I go to this trouble, I'm not going to a junkyard, I'd rather purchase one that is known good and has a warranty. Thanks.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    If it is the standard engine, Google KLZE engine. I got a lot of hits on it. I didn't check prices, but it is probably higher than the value of a 95 Millenia. If it is the supercharged 2.3, I wouldn't even bother to Google it, it won't be worth it.
  • I have a 2000 s model 72000 miles. Check engine light came on took it to autozone. They say oxygen sensor in bank 2 bad. I think this is the one in the frt by the radiator. also could anyone recommend a good cheap place to buy a original one. I'm getting prices of $120. I dont really want to splice anything up. thanks
  • Toss it. The cost of an engine and the labor will exceed the value of the car.
  • pcfigpcfig Posts: 13
    Hi,
    I've got a "99 S(93k).had CEL,codes came up Bank 1&2,my mechanic beleives from his experience it is the Cat causing the oxygen sensor(s)codes to come up,you can replace the sensors but in short time will have same problem.he tested by disconnecting sensor 1(your right,close to radiator)and tapping it in his palm,if residue falls out it is likely the Cat that is bad,residue/shavings did fall into his hand.Said not real big deal,just monitor performance and fuel economy.new Cat=$1000,you can find sensors on ebay for approx.$60-$90.Good luck,post any new findings or cures,thanks.Paul
  • i own a 1998 mazda millenia, my dad gave it to me, i just wanted to say that i find it interesting about all of the problems people have posted. i expereince very few of them, beside the check engine light, which doesn't bother me any more, so long as i know that its the o2 senser, but beside that... nothing. now alot of posters say they buy the car used,well... the cars condition is based on the previous owner, not on the car itself. my car runs great for an eight year old car. i treat this car like a princess.... so all i can say is give your car some TLC and it'll do you good
  • zzjeazzjea Posts: 3
    Bought this car 2 years ago and love it. Has about 72K miles. Recently city milage has dropped from about 21mpg to 18-19. Do not drive highway so don't know milage on that.

    I have used a couple of bottles of injector cleaner to see if that worked but it did not. Engine runs great. Only problem is milage has dropped. Any ideas? If the supercharger is not working/properly, how would you know? Thanks.
  • semacsemac Posts: 3
    Hi All,

    I'm thinking of buying an 2001 millenia "S" but the thought of having to puchase hi octane fuel given the price of gas is making me think twice. Does it really matter if I use hi octane fuel? Will I damage the engine if I don't?
  • Use the recommended fuel. If octane is too low you will get detonation and that's bad for the engine. There's only a 20 cent difference in the premium fuel (10% at $2 per gallon) so it's a small penalty for best performance.
  • If it runs great then the supercharger is fine. When was the last time you changed the air filter? If you don't have a check engine light then everythings in spec. Lower fuel mpg could be an early indication of a developing problem that could be averted with a major tuneup. Remember to check tire pressure and possibly brake drag.
  • zzjeazzjea Posts: 3
    Thanks. I did change air filter recently. No CEL. Dealer wants ~$650 for tuneup. Dare I trust a non-dealer shop that has done good work on a Lexus and BMW with a tune-up?

    Had tires rotated and checked recently and they were a little low. I may get a little better mpg but don't know yet.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    The subject of replacement tires has come up here at times.

    I bought a set of Goodyear Assurance Comfortred tires for my 2001 MMP yesterday, because after a lot of research I came to the conclusion they will be very quiet and smooth (ie luxury ride). I have chosen to run them at 35 lb front and 33 lb rear as opposed to the factory recommendation for OEM tires of 31/29. I also changed size from 215/55/16 to 205/60/16 and they look great. The diameter is almost identical, so there should be no effect on the speedometer or gas milage other than the higher air pressure.

    I leave Saturday morning for a 3000 mile trip and will let you know when I get back how this choice worked out. So far, I can tell that they are virtually silent, and the ride seems for the first 100 miles to be an improvement over the original Michelin MXV4's. The Michelin's were worn out at 17000 miles (1/32" tread left), not a very good showing IMO, and were not particularly quiet.

    I paid out the door, $573. Not cheap, but far cheaper than putting another set of MXV4's on it. I'll be back in two and a half weeks with a followup.
  • I wouldn't do the $650 tuneup unless it's time for new plugs, etc. Without CEL on I'd drive it and continue to monitor the mpg.
  • jwatsjwats Posts: 72
    I am considering buying a Millenia to be used primarily as a winter car. They seem to be a great value used
    1. Even though reliability gets decent ratings from CR and others, there seems to be a lot of CEL issues and other problems. DO you think that is because people with problems come here or do the cars not age well?

    2. Is the S version more trouble prone? what are issues?
    3. What are best years and none issue areas?

    thank you in advance?
  • vafoxvafox Posts: 5
    Our 02MMP transmission started slipping very badly, very suddenly at 42K miles. The Mazda shop told us it was unusual but it needed a $4,300 factory rebuilt transmission. When we said we'd take it to Cottmans they said they'd done some research and found out there was a 50/50 chance that a complete drain/refill of transmission fluid might give us a short term fix for $200. This sounds suspicious to me. Why would they have to do research to find that out? What is a short term fix? Has anyone had transmission trouble at this low mileage? We didn't buy the extended warranty so we really need advice. Thanks!
  • pcfigpcfig Posts: 13
    Hi,
    I've had my '99 MMS(93k)for 4mths.,about 2mths. ago my transmission began to disengage at 35-40(going into 3rd or overdrive.)Sad,shocking,scary!!I am hoping a "transmission tune-up"(about $100,includes fluid drain/refill and most importantly a new filter)will cure this.However,I discovered it only does it when cold and if I "ease her" into shift(basically minimal accleration at 35mph)it will engage.Still want and intend to get "tune-up" but need to get the courage,very likely i will get the "needs new tranny" speech and that would %3&*# me off.
  • pcfigpcfig Posts: 13
    Not sure if this is common driving reaction for the Mazda Millenia.My '99 S seems to deccelerate quickly.That is when cruising and letting off on gas it seems to slow down faster than my previous cars.Their really is no coasting.When bought car(4mths.ago)dealership had just done brake job,pads around,front rotors.Earlier posting mentioned "brake drag".I have nothing rubbing or smell burning,what are symptoms of "brake drag"?Better yet,tell me this is normal for MMS.Other possibilities?Thanks,PCFIG
  • My 96 Millenia S has some minor fender damage. Estimates from 3 body shops are $850, $1000 and $1050. Today went to Maaco who said it would cost $644 and that they will use an aftermarket fender.
    Does anyone have opinions about the quality of these aftermarket fenders? And Maaco? that was once known for its cheap jobs but seems to be upmarketing. ?
  • I have a '97 MM S with 118K miles. I bought it at 55K miles. I have to replace one quart of synthetic oil every two weeks. Drives OK- 25 MPG.

    What maintenance is absolutely necessary at this point on a fixed income?

    For a tune up, what kind of wires and plugs should I get?

    Do I NEED the dealer for this work?

    My heated seat light comes on, but no heat. Are there any cheap probable solutions?

    Thanks-
  • I have a 2000 Millenia S Mllenium Edition 87K. I'm having trouble with the Chrome 5 Spoke Alloy wheels. One I had welded in three different spots for hairline cracks which causes an air leak. Now I have two cracks in another rim. I'm a pretty careful driver, and try to avoid pot holes at all cost; however its not possible at all times. Has anyone else had trouble with these wheels, and what is the solution? They are very expensive to replace, and I'm afraid that having them welded is not in my safest interent. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • I had the plugs replaced by a dealer to the tune of $125. just for plugs. I have never spent that much for plugs in my entire life. And as for dealer doing the work, my mechanic would not touch the job. He claimed you had to take half the engine apart to get at them. Good Luck.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Well, I'm back with that exciting tire report I promised.

    I put a total of 2911 miles on the new tires, with most of that at 80 to 85 mph on Interstates. But it also included far too much time on terrible snow and ice covered roads in Davenport Iowa. Except for a high pitched whine on some of Illinois' and Iowa's poorly maintained concrete highways they performed admirably. They are definitely far smoother and more comfortable than the Michelin MX4V's they replaced, as well as being considerably quieter under most circumstances. I found no loss of performance with these H rated tires as compared to the V's that came on the car.

    I had read a couple of reviews on Tire Rack that suggested I might lose about 2 mpg going to these tires, but that didn't hold true. When the Michelins were new I took a similar trip and averaged 26 in the same kind of driving. The Goodyears returned a low of 24.9, but averaged 27.1 for the trip.

    On good roads in the mountains northwest of Chatanooga my mother commented that it felt as if the car was floating over the ground.

    All in all I am well pleased with them and recommend them as a replacement for the OEM's on the P. I am not an agressive driver, so the ones of you that are, might see a difference in handling.

    On another note, I had no indication of any type of problem on the trip concerning the rest of the car and it performed perfectly. The MMP and Goodyear Assurance Comfortreads seem to be a good combination.
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