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Mazda Millenia

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  • I have all those problems in one extra one. I have an 2000 Mazda also. I have started to hear knocking sounds under the hood every now and then. It comes and goes. I took it to the shop because someone told me it could be my lifters. The person at the shop told me that my supercharger was going out it that would be about 3000.00 to 4000.00 to get fixed. Please help me if you know anything about this new problem. I have put so much money into the car and I'm wondering if I should spend anymore or just get rid of it.
  • I am in the process of buying a 2000 MM-s millenium ed. The audio system plays but the 6 disc cd player won't work. How much would it cost me to replace the cd player (6 disc not necesary) with something decent or comparable? The seller is only willing to give me a $100 discount because of it. Thank you for any feedback. I have never owned a Mazda. I've owned Nissans, Hondas and am now driving an infiniti. I hope my experience will be as satisfying.
  • Don't buy the car.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You could check with some place like Crutchfield.
  • I've had a 95 non-supercharged Millenia for 5 years now. With gas prices the way they are, I've switched to standard 87 octane from my usual mid grade or premium. No problems yet. From what I've read, premium really is only neccessary for turbocharged or supercharged engines. Any comments?
  • How do you know when you supercharger is going out? What are some signs?
  • I have a 97 Millenia, 191,860 miles. Check Engine light on for several years. Summer of 2005, had local shop do tune-up: cap,rotor,PCV valve,wires,plugs,air & fuel filter, timing belt,water pump. One month later engine quit at cruise after about 15 minutes. Coasted, let sit 10-15 minutes. Cranked, but would not start. Eventually started and ran OK. Drove 40 minutes. Garage read codes: EGR, CAM Position Sensor, O2 Sensor. Reset codes, only EGR reappeared. Engine ran OK. Decided not to fix. Then during summer Coolant overflowed on shutdown. Replaced thermostat, occasionally overflowed during hot months. Summer of 06, Hesitation on acceleration. Codes showed Air Leak. Replaced Rubber bellows tube from air mass sensor to throttle. EGR code still present. Two weeks later, engine quit at cruise as did summer before. Left sit, would crank, but not start. Had towed. Tried to start 1 week later, engine started OK. Drove to garage with Check Engine light blinking. Codes similar to before: P0300 Random Misfire, P0325 Knock Sensore, P1345 No SGC Signal, P1402 EGR. TCS OFF light occasionally ON. Since then, have had quit and not restart for several minutes.
    Did anyone ever find out if TCS would cause engine to quit and not restart for period of time??
  • I wish I could do that. I have already contacted the used car dealer where I bought the car and they would not take it back. Since then I have also had the cats replaced which lucky for me were replaced under warranty of 80,000 miles. BUT almost every time I start the car white smoke comes out of my exhaust! It seems like I'm constantly putting more oil in the car. Along with that the Check Engine light keeps comming on. For now it seems that if I disconnect the battery the light goes off for a few days. In the process of sellling this monster. I will never buy another Mazda and I warn anyone looking to buy a Millenia, DON'T especially one that has a supercharger. IT'S NOT WORTH YOUR TIME AND MONEY!!!
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,427
    FWIW: White smoke is usually OK, that's water. A natural byproduct of combustion, and often visible at startup. Burning oil means blue smoke. Best and cheapest fix is thicker oil (20W50) but use synthetic (Mobil 1) so that you still get good flow when the car is cold.

    Perhaps more to the point: If you are going to buy a seven-year-old luxury car, especially an obscure one, you have to have a good mechanic. And you HAVE to have the car checked out before you plunk down any money for it.

    I didn't, and I got (mostly) lucky.
    Paid $1,800 for the car, and could easily double that with suspension work & two new axles. Did the most necessary things for $800 and been driving it for 5 months now...

    A car like this, you either get it and keep it in top-notch condition -- or you get it cheap and milk it for as long as you can. And personally, I'd only buy older cars for cash. No payments when you have big repairs hanging over your head... the darned thing has 4 (four) ball joints at every corner, fer cryin' out loud!

    Most of all, you'd better know about cars or have a good relationship with a competent mechanic.

    -Mathias
    1996 Millenia L, 152k
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    I take issue with the "Don't Buy A Millenia" statement of the poster before you. Sure, maybe the "S" has problems, but not the the non-Superchgarged version. In fact the 2.5l engine is critically acclaimed as one of the best V6's ever made.

    My '95 Millenia just turned 170K. Total repairs to date are less than $4k and included routine stuff like timing belt, cooling pump, distributor, battery, etc. Tranny's fine, engine's fine, shocks are fine....I expected it to be closer to death by this point.

    It is by far the most reliable vcar I've ever had.

    The one complaint is that goddamned Check Engine Light. It has been on for 4 years. I have my mechanic tweek it so that I can pass my smog check. He runs the diagnostic, it resets itself and then 30 miles later, it comes on again. I simply ignore it.

    Any comments out there about the regular millenia being a great car?
  • I have a 99 Millenia L with about 125,000 trouble free miles on it. It still looks and runs great. By far, it is one of the best cars I've ever owned.
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    I just talked to another Millenia owner this week, who shares our praise of Millenia's. his too was a non-"S". The fact that Consumer Reports recommends it as a top pick for used car year after year, indicates that it is such!

    cbd
  • Who here agrees? I love my car. '95 Millenia L with 171K. You can pick these up used for a song and they drive as well as any similar yeared Lexus ES, Acura TL, Toyota Avalon and better than any GM or Ford Sedan! They actually handle better than most of those spongy Sedans. When my Milly dies, she'll be replaced by another high quality, low mileaged 2001 or 2002 Millenium.

    CBD
  • Hey there, it looks like our cars are (were) having the same problem. Do you still have the Millenia and did you ever get the stalling and not starting problem fixed? I seen it has been almost a year since your post.

    I might have a lead for you if you are still stumpped.

    -lambster
  • We may have the same problem. Mine is 95 but with the 2.5L engine experiencing a similar problem. Mine however ends up dying after 15-30 seconds of really low and variying RPM (if it doesn't just suddenly die at once.) Did you get this problem solved? Let's discuss, I'm still stumpped.

    -lambster
  • I have a 95 that is doing what yours is doing now. Rarely does it not die 10-20 minutes into a trip and will not restart for 5-15 minutes. My dealer tested the car for about a week and said it needed a new Throttle Body and tune-up along with the EGR cleaned. I don't recall the codes on the computer but yours look familure.

    I was told that there is no way the TCS (which was explained to essentially be the ABS control) could be causing the stalling, but it seems to me that the computer controling TCS is also controling the fuel or ignition or whatever is causing the thing to die.

    Have you had any success getting to the bottom of this?

    -lambster
  • jahmikes, I see your post was a long time ago, did you ever get the problem solved? I am having the same thing happen to my 95.

    -lambster
  • claudev, did you get your mllenia fixed? mine stalls as well.

    -lambster
  • No, I have been running it for the last two weeks without any problems. Im still looking at replacing the distributor. Know of any used parts dealers on line for Millenia's
  • Not on-line, however, I first tried that route trying 2 different distributors from newer 626 from a local junk yard (Indy area) and no luck, still stalled out. You might try that route.
    I recently sent it into the local Mazda dealer who looked it over for about a week. They determined that it was the throttle body that went bad, caused the plugs to foul, and I should get new plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, along with the throttle body and the EGR needs cleaned.
    Not wanting to "blindly" put $2k into it, I got on this site and did some investigating. I found 3 or 4 others who described the same situation and it turned out to be a vaccuum leak. I called the dealer back to see if they looked into this and unfortunately he said they tested every hose because that is a common issue with these cars. :confuse: So now I a stumped again. I am thinking it is some goofy computer issue; and others on here have replaced all kinds of stuff and not stopped the stalling.
    You have any further info/ideas?
  • coderedcodered Posts: 43
    i am looking at a 99 Millenia....timing belt should be done when????are they overall good cars???? thanks :shades:
  • Timing Belt probably should be changed every 60-75K. The owners manual says 100K I believe. Millenia's are great cars, but steer clea of the S model as it does have more problens apparently.
  • wrd88wrd88 Posts: 5
    I had the same problem with the check engine light, replaced 02 sensors, the works. I did find however, if you disconnect the battery and then reconnect it the light should go off upon startup. In my Mellinia it usually takes a few days to a month for the light to come back on and then I do the battery thing again. It might not really fix the problem but it turns off that annoying "Check Engine" light at least for a while that is.
  • I just left the mazda shop for the second time and I'm spending alot of money to try and solve my problem. My TCS and TCS off lights came on at the same time and that makes my car buck at about 2500rpm.I just had solenoid valve and vac line installed with a tube in the vac line. on the way home lights came on and car started bucking. I turned the car off and back on while driving to reset the computer and it helps for a while, can anyone help me?
  • mgillmgill Posts: 4
    Hi guys ijust change my distributor on my 95 millenia because it sluggest and not advancing,change the distributor it runs much better,still when i try advancing it,it would not move engine would remain the same,idle speed would not change.has any one ever had that problem.
  • I have a 2002 and the trunk will not open with the key the front release or the inside emergency release (we have a coat hanger attached to it) Is there anyway to fix this myself?
  • just got a 99 millenia. love the looks and every thing but the gas gage will not read. the manual reads that if the gage reads empty the check engine light will come on.all looks good under the car, does any one know if any relay on the back of the back seat in the trunk has any thing to do with this problem .there is 4 or 5 relays under the cover on the back seat. also the power mirrows will not work. had the light read at auto zone there was a control modual malfuntion only. thanks bill
  • grandcgrandc Posts: 1
    When I put the heat on, it starts smoking from he passenger side floor. No air comes out whatsoever. I cannot defrost my windows either. Anyone know how much this will cost to fix and what is wrong with it? A/C blows warm air. It just started a month ago with the heat, and the A/C broke before summer. Thanks for all your help.
  • I have a 98 Millenia 2.5 L, and need to replace the Idler
    Bearing Pulley located external to the engine, Not the timing belt pulley, It is the serpintine belt adjusting pulley. I need advise on removing it for replacement.
    Can I just romve the lock nut and lift it off or do I have to remove the adjusting screw to romove it ?


    atlantaMazdaman
  • I am on my second CRACKED wheel.....and thinking I am going on my third. I have been having problems with my air depleting from my tires since Jan 06 due to corrosion/rusting on my wheels. NTB has been very good to me and taking off the tire and sanding down the corrosion of the wheels....at least 7 times...I contacted my Mazda dealership as well as Mazda and ask about the cracked wheels....they said due to it being a 2000 w/62000 miles on it..there is nothing they can do!!!! And they have no records of any other cracked wheels....they also stated it was due to hitting a pot hole....I told them I might be on my third....then they said to call them back if I do...

    I already replaced ALL tires 3 times/ all rotors twice with all brakes twice and now 2 cracked wheels....along with 2 sensors

    I see a tech bulletin #020001R....what does this mean to me and how do I find out if these wheels have any warrant to a recall?

    If anyone can help.....
    Thanks
    Shubedo
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