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Mazda Millenia

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  • i have a 99 Mellina and I bought the base model for a reason....Their are three motors for this car the miller cycle, super charger and base. I bought base and MADE SURE the engine was built in Japan and not US. The miller cycle has a issue with the oil compression system which blows out. it cost $5000 just to fix that...so i stayed away. The supercharger is nice but it goes out around 35 to 55K miles. So think about it for the cost of a charger you can buy a base engine and put it in if the charger goes up for about $1000. So have fun and save a thousand and if the charger goes up again replace the engine with a base engine but make sure the serial number starts with a J. Keep in mind that the base engine is not as powerful but it wont break on you
  • Dude...$1500 to replace valve cover gasket's. Who are you taking your car too...rip off amaerica? I replace mine and I bought the gaskets from the dealer for $40.00 it took me two hour to replace them. If i took it to a shop they wanted to charge me $200.00. If you pay $1500 for that you are seriously getting ripped. You can keep the car if nothing is wrong with the charger. But please dont pay that much for such a small job...you may want to really reconsider who is working on your car. I have a 99 with 172,000 it's purring like a kitten. change your oil to fully synthetic and never go back to regular oil. and get your valve covers changed..it can cause other issues and if you have to add 2 quarts every twoo or three fillups..you are having bigger issues than gaskets
  • find a shop that specializes in repairing bent rims. it should cost no more than $150
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    What are you talking about?

    There were only two engines in the Millenia: a 2.3L Miller Cycle engine with a Lysolm compressor and a 2.5L normally aspirated engine. Both engines in the Millenia were only produced in Japan.

    You cannot simply swap engines if you have one and would like the other.
  • I have the same problem in the morning too, mine is a 99' S
    with 109K and loving it. I haven't notice any degrade in engine performace - the spped of this car just amazing!
    how much does it cost to fix the supercharge without timing belt?
  • take it to your local Firestone and tell them you want a safety check on the car. they charge $21 yes $21 out the door. you going to love this car especially a S model.
    they are very hard to come by these day.
  • Thanks for the recommendation..went to the firestone, sure enough 19.99 for the inspection. All's good with the car, he just recommended new wipers and a fuel system cleaner...
  • I once had this problem and replaced all the T's under the supercharger and the TCS PROBLEM WENT AWAY.
    Please if you had another fix to this let me know for the future.
    Koolhammer
  • The shop said something about how you had to take the
    Supercharger off and it would be like a bunch of hours
    labor to fix the valve cover gaskets, I dunno. I have
    thought now that maybe if you do have to take the supercharger off to fix them, why not replace the
    supercharger too? I might be able to get a good deal
    on a used one. Another question I have though, when
    you people say your supercharger has "gone out" do
    you mean it starts blowing oil into the engine (my
    problem I think) or it just stops running totally?
    Does the car run if it stops running?

    Still looking for Atlanta Mazda shop also....

    Tom
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I believe you do have to move quite a few items to get the valve covers off. I think the SC stays in place but the plenum is removed. Book rate is around 2.5 hours.
  • ksan71ksan71 Posts: 5
    :sick: I have a peculiar problem that has me dumbfounded. About 8 mos ago, my check engine light came on and the "TCS OFF" light with no apparent antecedent. The engine would idle at about a 100-150 less RPM than normal. I'd be in stop and go traffic and the car would just shut off. and it wouldn't start for about 2-3 minutes. Then it would start up and would drive like a charm. Took it to my mechanic who reset the chk eng. light and then the light shut off (he didn't give me the one code that came up). 20 minutes later the light came back on. He suggested that I lower the octane to 89 since I was always filling up with 93. After a while (a week) that kind of fixed the issue and then the light came back on. And I'd be driving on the highway and the car would just shut down. Tried starting the car in Nuetral and it wouldn't startl. Finally I would stop on the shoulder put the car in park and it would start right up. The car would again run like a charm however the check engine light would stay on and the "TCS OFF" light off. Then I noticed something peculiar. I noticed that when I was less than a 1/2 tank full the check engine light would shut off. But as soon as I filled up with 89 the check engine light would come on and I would have these stall bouts on the highway and not in stop and go traffic. I also noticed when I would use a Fuel Cleaner it would stop for the length of tank of gas. Don't know what to do? Have taken it to my mechanic twice and he can't figure it out.. Anyone?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Well what code is tripping the CEL? I'd start with that. Of course, the millenia has complicated fuel tank system and it sounds like there could be a problem with the evaporative emission system on it.
  • My 95 Millenia has 211,000+ miles on it. I have had some major repairs last year, but cannot bring myself to get rid if it! This morning, the hold light starting flashing. What does that mean? Am I in for another $$$ major repair??
  • I Have the same concern on my car funny things is that I am a Ford Technician "A" .. I Deal with this stuff all day long it just easier for me because of tools that are availiable to me at the dealer!! I have really no acess for Mazda stuff. When I read your write up i was like Wow!! the same thing I am going thru everyday! i Actually drive near the shoulder in case vehicle stalls i can easily drift off the road and wait a minute a start up vehicle and go on my merry way!! While I have Acess to scanner and Retrieve codes P1195 P1521 P1522>> 1195 it a Baro/Map code which most likely won't cause a stall concern.. P1521/1522 is a idle speed control inputs control. I am kind of leaning toward a "crank sensor" At first I was leaning toward a Distributor but for over $300.00 It will be a bad guess! If you have any info on a fix Please :( pass it down!! Any Ford problems I am the Man Certified Ford Tech!!
  • what code do you have???
  • Have you found a fix?? I have same concern Please Help!!
  • ksan71ksan71 Posts: 5
    What's interesting is that I decided to do a little more research. I have found out through other Mazda owners that are experiencing the same thing, the first thing to do is to switch to strictly 89 octane.. That should do away with the TCS OFF light. Secondly, I recently found out through another forum someone that pinpointed the situation having the same symptoms as I am having.. It suggests, that the first thing you should do is check for a leak at the Air bypass valve. Some people are reporting that this is the CEL light cure for this issue.. I haven't tried it myself yet as it is freezing outside.. But If anyone can do it and it works for them let me know.. So once again, check the vacuum hoses by the air bypass valve for leaks. The hoses in question are the short hoses with about 3/4 ' diameter.
  • I changed my cap and rotor and the next thing you know I had the charge light come on, then the tcs on light and the tcs off light and some other lights the hold light was flashing off and on, even the dashspeed and rpm stopped working wow I had to tow the car home after it would hold a jump for more than five minutes. So what I did and it corrected the whole problem was put the old cap and rotor back on that is the most bizzar car problem Ive ever seen so it possible that all dealer parts may correct some of the overall wierd millenia problems so in turn dont just start throwing money at this car undo what you did before you were having what ever issue you are having because what I was about to do is put a altanator in and then a new battery then I would of came to the conclusion that my distributor was the fix to it all that would be 800 dollars later trust me I have sunk A ton of money into this car without the desired results
  • Have you had a cap and rotor recently I had a whole electrical malfunction as explained in my post "millenia owners must read" the car was fine and I put a new cap and rotor on and the car electronics went crazy not even the radio would make a sound but the thing was lit up my speedo and rpm would work the car just ran out of juice so odly enough a distributor cap and rotor from the dealer and not schucks could be the cure
  • read my post " millenia owners must read " May be big help to you
  • buy some good year tires and constantly check your tire pressure you should put in about 40-45 psi 45 is how I run and it semms to correct the problem however the tire pressure always seems to go down even know I dont have any leaks its like the car creates flat spots in the tires must be some thing to do with suspension design
  • mikeyb1mikeyb1 Posts: 2
    Hello All,
    I know this question has been asked a million times but I havent seemed to be able to find a clear answer. I apologize for asking again.

    I will give some background on the car and my situation..

    I have recently been handed down a 1999 Millenia S. I am having a problem with my dashboard lights which seems to be very common for these cars. My father has had issues with the Engine light over the years and was told by the dealership that we have put 94 octane to reduce engine light problems. The engine light came on from time to time with the code of the o2 sensor but normally when checked, it was fine. It got to the point where we stopped bringing it in to check the light.

    Recently, I noticed while driving on a dry winter day that my brakes felt strange. I would step on the brakes lightly and the ABS clunking sounds and pulsing feel would kick in. Around that time the dashboard lights: "TCS, TCS OFF, 4w ABS" came on. It was very strange. I got the lights checked and the dealer said "there is nothing physically wrong with the brakes, I will reset the lights" they were off and less then a month later they were back on intermittently (extremely rarely do I get the ABS feel). Over a week or so ago they have started to stay on all the time. Once in a blue moon they will be cleared when i start the car but go on soon after. I also noticed that on an icy day with the lights on, the ABS and TCS are actually off, so its not only the light but the actual system.

    I brought the car back to the dealer who saw those lights as well as the engine light. The dealer told me that the engine light was the o2 sensor (again). We fixed it with his assurance that this is not another bad code. The engine light is now off and the car runs fine, but the TCS lights and ABS are still on. The dealer does not know what to do and claims there is no way to scan the lights and diagnose. I dont know how the first dealer worker reset the lights last time. He says he spoke to the shop foreman who said that it would cost more then the car is worth to go through all the possibilities and just to diagnose the problem.

    Any thoughts? do you guys have something I can bring back to the dealer to say "look at this"?

    I appreciate the help and am sorry for the length.

    Mike
  • jayjay9jayjay9 Posts: 1
    Hope someone can help here. My 2002 Millenia has been stalling out at stops after a cold start for weeks and recently started sputtering at random times while driving. CEL came on so I had Mazda take a look and they replaced the connection for the Idle Valve and also the Catalytic Converter (thank god for warranty!) Still same problems and I have since had fuel line cleaned, complete tuneup, trans flushed air filter replace nothing seems to work. The CEL does not come on anymore and my mechanic cannot find a solution. Anyone else have these issues? Thanks.
  • check coolant level my have leaky water pump causing air pockets !!!
  • I recently bought a used 99 millenia s with 89,000 km and have driven it 10,000km without any problems. Recently the car started burning a large amount of oil at start up but usually only if its sat for more than an hour! What possibilities could it be?? I have researched a fare bit about the car and understand the supercharges are the most un-reliable piece on the car so, should I start with that? Please email me or reply with any information to help me with my new love...the millenia s
  • I had the same problem and Mazda started replacing sensors which turned out to be very very expensive. The problem was low compression in the engine and the real cause was a timing belt mis-alignment. Cost 1500 to replace with labor at the dealer in Canada but may be much cheaper in US and at regular shop.

    Be very careful when you approach mechanics about this engine as many do not know much about it and immediately start telling you to replace things or even the whole engine. It is a very expensive engine to maintain and I would advise that you get rid of it if you can. This is a bit drastic but you have not seen cost yet. The cat converter is located in the manifold which cost $3000 to replace and used parts are almost non-existent. The dealer and some mechanics try to rip people off on the engine work. This is a good car but it is the often encountered bad diagnosis that is going to cost you an arm and a leg.

    Good luck!
  • I am so perplexed by this. Everything I read about the "must use Premium Gas" command from car experts say that it is only really needed in certain supercharged or turbocharged engines. Otherwise, you are wasting your money. :mad: I have a standard(non-S version) '95 Millenia. Do I really need Premium at $3.36 a gallon, or can I get by with regular or 89 octane mid-grade? It's expensive! Anyone ??!!
  • I do not know if premium is actually required by non-turbo or non-supercharged engines, however the Mazda repairs are extremely expensive so if you can pay an extra 10 cents to avoid repairs it is a good trade-off. If you have warranty you must use the correct fuel the specify otherwise you automatically voided your coverage.
  • ksan71ksan71 Posts: 5
    I've been using 89 octane for a very long time.. However, I did use 91 octane and found out the benefits of driving 91 are minimal. 89 has been fine for me. and not to mention it also helped take the "TCS OFF" light when it began appearing for no reason. And don't use 87 since you will hear the knock and pick and power output is crappy. Good luck..
  • mikeyb1mikeyb1 Posts: 2
    Thanks a million for the help.. So this was the issue with the Cat. I changed the O2 sensor like they suggested and the engine light went off... until last night oddly enough. When I went to bring it back and complain, just my luck, the light turned off.. The car has a brain and it knows how to piss me off..

    So your suggestions were for the engine problem... I am hopefully going to get rid of the car soon due to these issues but financially its not the best thing at this time.. So I am trying to just keep it running for a little while longer.

    I am planning on switching to the lower octane for a fill up or two and see if that fixes the TCS lights as some suggested..

    With all these problems with the cars, why the hell havent they recalled the damn stuff.. I find it very irresponsible of Mazda, and from a family who owns 3... I think this will lean heavily when considering a new one.

    Thanks for the help
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