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Mazda Millenia

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  • HEy mazda freek. I also have the same problem and have been waiting for some answers myself. I have heard that it is generally the supercharger gaskets that are leaking or valve seals. Either way its expensive and a pain in the rear. Send me any info if you get it looked at.. Thanks Mazda4life1
  • I recently bought a used 99 millenia s with 89,000 km and have driven it 10,000km without any problems. Recently the car started burning a large amount of oil at start up but usually only if its sat for more than an hour! What possibilities could it be?? I have researched a fare bit about the car and understand the supercharges are the most un-reliable piece on the car so, should I start with that? Please email me or reply with any information to help me with my new love...the millenia s
  • Thanks for your response. I usually use mid-grade, rarely use 87 octane. I think I'll continue with the mid-grade. Premium is now about $3.50 a gallon where I live, heading towards $4 !!
  • I have a 95 MM 2.5L. I recently started to have power loss problems. I took it to the shop and they told me that my front pre-cat, was clogged. So I just replaced it and it didn't fix the problem. When i step on the gas, the car just bogs down, when i let up on the gas the car like releases. But when i step on it again the same problem. Any ideas???
  • monkey12monkey12 Posts: 1
    Ok well i bought this car and it seemed to run fine...a couple of weeks later the transmission went out...when i got it back it was stalling when i was stopped at a light...I took it back and he set the timing and it is better...But if I turn the vents on it starts stalling again...also the acceleration is not working right...I have to take it nice and slow until i reach speed limit..and can not get it to go past 60 mph...I took it to another shop and they are saying I need the timing set because it is off by 1 tooth and a bunch of other things adding up to another 1600 dollars which i don't have...so if anyone has any ideas about what it might be please let me know...I am not trying to say the mechanic is wrong...but i have heard of these kind of cars being misdiagnosed.
  • jpoorejpoore Posts: 1
    Hello everyone,
    I just purchased a 02 MMS. I'm very pleased with the car and plan to keep it for some time. It has 48,000 miles and I would love to keep it in tip top shape. Would love seggestions on preventative maintenance past the normal oil changes. Based on the previous messages I have read It seams like the Miller ingine can be costly to repair. Thats actually what sold me on the car. Would love input. Thanks Jeff
  • logtraillogtrail Posts: 72
    I have a 96 "S" with 92k miles and until this week when I had to replace an axle and a crank sensor (whatever that is)
    I have had no serious problems. I just keep changing the oil every 5,000 miles. If and when the engine begins to start smoking that may mean that it's time to replace the turbo charger and I will trade in the car. I am a fairly cautious driver, altho I don't have any problem going 80+ from time to time, so that may help the longevity of the car (and me).
    One suggestion I have is to get the OEM brake pads when you have to replace them. Mazda pads do not seem to leave as much brake dust as the aftermarket brands.
  • If when you hit the gas it revs up but do not respond by accelerating then it seems like a timing belt problem. If the car loses power while driving then the engine may need to be rebuilt(egg shaped cylinders). This is based on what my mechanic told me about my car. I do not know if your car has TCS which runs off the vacuum system. A bad valve could cause this problem but you would be getting check engine light and the mechanic should get the code.

    The problem with this car is that the mechanics only want to change parts or the whole engine but do not want to be responsible for their diagnosis which is always wrong at first. I spent over $1200 last year on bad diagnosis and eventually even fixed $800 worth of problems for free. All I had to do was clean motor brush residue from the motor and that was it. They wanted me to replace the motor for almost $400 plus 2 hours labor. Took me 15 minutes. The mechanics just aren't trustworthy anymore.

    The bottom line is that this car is junk. For its original cost the blue book value is just about nothing today. I would advise everyone with a Mazda Millenia to move on and cut their losses. The quote to repair my car is $3400 for the engine, $2800 for the manifold with precat and $2500 for labor. The car was bought for $5000 and the blue book value is $1600-$2000. Go get a used honda or toyota before this thing break your bank account. The Ford Mustang was the last great American car. Mazda is crap!
  • lito1lito1 Posts: 1
    The check engine light came on the first day. TCS off lights comes on when I accelerate to about 60mph and car begins to jerk. I just noticed a little white smoke when I start the car for about 30 sec in the morning. I took it to a mechanic friend. His advise, "sell it, there may be hidden and serious problems, the supercharged engine is complicated". I have hard the car for a month. I am the second owner and the carfax report is clean. I am inclined to sell it,because I dont want to spend thousands of dollars for a problems that cannot be easily diagnosed and fixed. Does anyone know of a good honest mechanic in the Massachusetts area (Boston). Its hard to find one these days. I will go to Auto zone and get a computer read. What I have read so far about the S engine scares me.
  • ksan71ksan71 Posts: 5
    Had the same problem except my car is not a turbocharged engine.. My problem was a vacuum leak. Check the vacuum hoses for a leak. it may be so small you can't see the whole but sometimes there is cracking at the hose inlet ports. And switch your gas to 89 Octane.
    Good Luck..
  • 1999 Milliena

    sunroof will slide open and go up or down but, have a diificut time closing the sunroof. I replaced the switch however, I have the same problem.

    Any suggestions.
  • So here I am walking down the used cars parking lot, and what do I see.. a 2002 Mazda Millenia S. Fell in love with the car the moment I seen it. Opened a loan for the car at $12k.

    Now here I am in the shop with the car about three months later, replacing the catylitic converter. Get the car back and now Ive got an engine light again. Car has been acting really wierd, sometimes it will idle all the way up to 2500rpms and just stay there, like the accelerator is stuck or something.

    SO yea. I want to get rid of this thing, so Im trying to trade it in for a new car.. the manager drives my car and tells me the suspension is going out and its a piece of crap car to begin with, offers me 5k for it.

    Wow. Im just kind of lost on what to do now. Trade it in and take 7k onto the next car loan??

    Thoughts please??
  • ksan71ksan71 Posts: 5
    Instead of losing 5K, spend a little more to put your TLC into it, take it to the dealer. The acceleration could be as simple as a sensor as it happened to me. And if its a computer problem, the dealer diagnostics are usually much better than a regular mechanics shop. I have a mechanic that changes the normal wear and tear items and if its a recurring problem especially with a turbocharged engine the dealer may be the best money for your buch. Imagine going to your mechanic for the same thing 2-3 times and everytime its something new. Do yourself a favor a visit a dealer service station. That's what I would do and I've owned a millenia for about 7 years now. Good Luck!!!
  • Hello Joe,

    Did you ever get your sunroof fixed. I have the same problem. I replaced the switch and it did no solve the problem.

    It opens goes up and down but have trouble closing the roof.

    Thank you,

    jjman4124
  • phatpatphatpat Posts: 22
    This is what I have to get fixed on my 140,000 95 Mazda Millenia S:

    -Valve Gasket Covers
    -Rear Main Seals
    -Front Main Seals
    -Timing Belt
    -Oil Pan Gasket

    The car is paid for but should I just get a new car you think? Any advice is truly appreciated,

    ~Patrick~
  • wanacrzwanacrz Posts: 1
    Our 96 Millenia has started to cut out when the tach reaches 2500rpms. This happens after the car warms up, but is intermittent, some days it doesn't happen at all, other days you can't drive 2 miles and it starts to act up.

    Diagnostics shows Mass Airflow Sensor problem and a MAF problem and a crankshaft position sensor problem.

    Dealer wants $1100.00 for MAS $750.00 for crank shaft position sensor and $70.00 for MAF with no guarantee that this will correct the problem. It's as if a REV limiter comes into play at 2500 RPM. Any ideas ?

    Wanacrz
  • have 62k on an '01 millenia

    do you all have a suggestion for when to change the timing belt?

    any other comments regarding this car (had for 2 yrs) would be appreciated

    thanks, w
  • 97cobra197cobra1 Posts: 1
    Did you get your problem fixed and if so what was the cure?
    I have the same problem and if you shut the ingnition off and put the car in neutral while driving it then turn it back on it will quit missing for another 5 minutes or so.
    I think its the EMC myself. How did the dealer come to the conclusion that you needed a Crank Sensor?

    THanks

    Brad
  • nmrnmr Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Did you and Joe get your sunroofs fixed? I took my car in on 03-2006 because the sunroof would open, but wouldn't close. They replaced the switch, but I continued having problems. I got fed up and just didn't open the sunroof anymore. I took the car in this past Friday, 05-25-2007, a little over a year later, and was told the switch was not working (duh) and today, they replaced it again (but I had to pay again). I literally just got back into my office and had to leave the car with them, because when I went to pick up the car, guess what, the sunroof STILL will not close!! Any suggestions? I told the tech I believe all their switches are defective. This is the second switch in 14 months! Help!
  • I purchased a new Millennia S back in 2000 and at 50,000 miles I posted a summary of my repair history for those who where thinking about buying one. Now I have 114K, so I think I'll do another update.

    Replaced tires at 53k.
    Did 60K service.
    Replaced O2 sensor at around 65K.
    Replaced Exhaust Manifold at around 70K (covered under emissions warranty in California)
    Replaced ignition pack at around 90K
    Replaced two tires due to a flat around 90K
    Replaced another two tires at 113K

    All in all, in my opinion (and it's only an opinion) it has been a reliable car. 3 repairs isn't bad in my book.

    Now, if you happen to be in the market for a used car and you happen to see a Millennia with 120K on it, should you buy it? Probably not. I wouldn't buy a high mileage vehicle that may cost a lot to fix, including BMWs, Mercedes, or even Lexus, unless I had about 5K in the bank in case it needed repairs. In essence, you might get lucky, you might not.

    Again, it's a wonderful car,
    John
  • Good news for me! Had the MAP sensor replaced and nave not had a problem since. That was probalby 600 miles ago. I have waited to post a success story until it looked like it was not going to re-occur. One thing about my situation was that the engine light never came on. Reason: it had been removed. This seemed to cause problems for the correct code to be logged. Good luck.
  • I agree. The Millenia is one of the most reliable cars on the used car market. My repairs have been minor, and I now have 186K on it. :)
  • I have read a report from alldata.com that you do not actually need to do this until about 100K miles. Slide under you car and check your belts for wear and cracks. Don't see any? Don't do anything to them. This is an expensive replacement/repair on this car so be prepared if yo uhave to have it done. If you have the ability to do it yourself, do so.
  • pour 2 oz of acetone in your tank and this will boost your octane (acetone's octane rating is 150) as well as provide better mileage and clean any and all varnish from your injectors. I have been doing this for a year with no ill effects and avg 32-35 mpg on the highway despite the MM-S rating of 28 mpg.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    There's quite a bit of debate regarding using acetone as a fuel additive. Be sure to educate yourself on the risks and/or benefits before doing so.
  • lfgib0919lfgib0919 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 1997 Millenia S. Noticed a disconnected vacuum hose on the Air Bypass valve (APV)accuator on top of manifold. Well connected it back and started having major issues (short circuits and such). Think it may have been disconnected by previous owner to avoid added costs before selling (typical with used cars). If this sound familiar to anyone please share. I am lost.....The only option that I know of is to have accuator replaced. I had it disconnected car still runs.
  • anglsmileanglsmile Posts: 1
    I had the same problem traveling from CA to MD last week in my 1995 Mazda Millenia S. The problem started in just outside of Rocksprings WY. When the car was checked out I found that my right tire was distroyied. The car then was computer alinement scanned and was told that the CASTERs were off balanced. The problem with that is there were no instructions on how to adjust the casters. I replaced the two front tire had the car computer alingment as best as possible and continued home without a problem. Now that I am at home I am in search of the price to just replace the caster.
    FYI mine read
    front right caster 4.1 specified range 1.8 degrees.
    front cross caster -2.1 specified -1.0 degrees.
    right rear toe .30 specified .07 degrees.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    If your caster is off, your problem is likely a bent strut or control arm.

    From the specs you gave and the condition, your problem was your toe-in.

    So what have you hit lately?
  • I have a 1995 Mazda Millenia with 198,000 miles on it and the 2.5 L V6 and as im driving on the freeway or even the side streets sometimes, the car will jerk forward like theres a clog in the fuel line or something. Sometimes I hit the gas and it still jerks whether at 70 miles per hour and then it will go away. It even does this when the cruise control is on. Also, when I come to a stop the engine will die sometimes. It usually restarts after one turn of the ignition but sometimes it requires 2 or 3 turns to get started again. Does anyone know why im having this problem and how I can fix it? I tried putting in a full tank of premium gas and also those fuel system cleaners but neither helped the problem. Today I replaced the fuel filter and I havent driven it enough to see if that fixed the problem. I also rebooted the fuel system, for lack of a better term, by pulling out the fuel system chip in the fuse box as the car was running so it would die and then putting the chip back in as it says to do in Chiltons repair manual. Can anyone help me please and let me know what else I can do? Do you think it could be the fuel pump that I need to replace if replacing the fuel filter didnt work? Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do or what maybe causing this? Im goin crazy here. Thank you!
  • Ok so putting in a new fuel filter didnt correct the problem. Im thinking it must be the mass air flow sensor or an O2 sensor thats out. The check engine light has been on since i bought the car back in October of 2006 and they ran a diagnostic test on it and said that the mass air flow sensor was out. Does anyone know if this is hard to change? Does anyone else have any other ideas as to what it could be? Maybe its a problem in the throttle body? help please
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