Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda Millenia

1122123125127128190

Comments

  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    My Owners Manual tells me to take my MM to the dealer to have the Cabin Air Filter changed. But having observed the mechanics at most dealerships, I can't help but feel I am as capable of removing a filter and cleaning it or installing a new one as they are.

    First, do all 2001 MM's have one, and if so where is it located? I think I can handle the strenuous physical job if I know where to look. I've worn out the Google search engine trying to get this information, but I guess Mazda considers it "Top Secret".

    Anybody know where it is if I have one?
  • I went thru a similar exercise last June. The previous owner was a smoker and I wanted to replace that cabin filter. I asked where it was on this or another help site and was told that it was up and under the glove box. Just pull down the flap or somesuch wording and pull the filter out. Yeah, right. My 2000 MM S has a sort of panel up or under there but no way could I get it to pull off. I ended up spritzing some Febreeze around (careful with leather seats) then I put half a sheet of Downy dryer softener over part of the inlet grill at the rear of the engine room at the firewall. That seems to have done the trick.
    If you do get the panel off let us know your method. If you were an acrobat in this or a former life it would help you in the contortions you have to go thru to get under there. fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I have no problem with odors etc. I am just trying to get an answer as to where the Cabin Filter is located if I have one so I can do preventive maintenance.

    Thanks for the input.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    The cabin air filter is located under the dash by the glove box. You have to remove the plastic cover they have under there. There are no screws to this it should just pop out, after you find the right spots to pull down at. Once you drop the plasic cover down it is easy to see where they are at. According to the '02 workshop manual you have to remove a wing nut that is on a tee that holds the filters in place. This tee they call a rubber sheet. There are two filters one with polyurethane and one without. The manual says the filter should be replaced every 12,000 miles or once a year. It also says that the filter cannot be reused by cleaning it with water or compressed air.

    These are supposed to be basic instructions for the Mill in general so it should not matter which model you have. I hope this helps.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    kcm8419.

    That is exactly the information I was looking for. I will check that out.
  • Hello all. My 99P just turned over 50k yesterday. Got it in April with 34k. About 25 mpg overall. Everything is great except the seat warmers stopped working. Not sure when exactly, but when I turned them on yesterday morning, they never heated up. Is this common? Any simple troubleshooting you guys know of (fuses maybe, etc)? Thanks, Brady
  • Welcome. Your problem could be fuse related (did you check the owner's manual for fuse location, type, etc.?) or it could be a loose or open plug connection under the seat. If you vacuumed under the seats when you first got the car last spring then that is a distinct possiblility. I haven't looked under there myself too closely but it has been mentioned as a common source of seat heater problems on other Mazda help sites. It is getting close to that time of year when we northerners will be hitting those seat heater switches, unfortunately. Let us know how you make out. fairwood
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I do not know if the '99 has it, but if you push the seat warmer button on and the light on it comes on then your fuse will be ok. As mentioned by fairwood and I think fwatson before, check to make sure that there is no plug under the seat that came unplugged.
  • I tried my driver's seat warmer for the first time yesterday and I too was disappointed to find that it either does not work or it is as lousy as my 1984 Volvo 760. The Volvo had leather/vinyl seats also and was totally useless. Volvo admitted as much and upped the heaters for subsequent years. There is usually a pressure switch in or under the padding and I think it takes about 50 lbs or more before the heaters will come on. This prevents the passenger seat to come on (if the switch is on) with a bag of groceries etc. on it. Anyway, I checked the 20 amp fuse in the fuse block under the hood and of course it is ok - the switch light came on yesterday confirming what kcm8419 said above. Has anyone tried to look or feel under the driver's seat? No way, Jose. I have my seat up as high as it will go and maybe a three year old child could feel and look under there, not me. If I can't see or get under there then I doubt if a mechanic could do so and would have to charge prevailing labor rates. So much for theory vs practice. I still maintain that we should spend the winter months with fwatson in Florida. All agreed, say aye. fairwood.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,020
    Mazda Mania Chat
    Tuesday nights - 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • I did notice that the orange light goes on when I turn on the seat heaters. So I guess fuses can be ruled out. I am thinking it is most likely a connection that came apart under the seat. Anyone know what exactly to look for under there? Must be a dozen different wires hanging around.
  • heybrady: How did you manage to get down and look under the seat? I doubt if the seat heaters are very effective. It is a 20 amp fuse protecting the heater system. The voltage is 12 volts. The current draw by the heater coil(s) is less than 20 amperes or the fuse would blow almost every use. Let's assume the worst case, 19 amperes at 12 volts = 228 watts. That is not enough heat to warm anything! and it is likely less than 19 amps - more like 15 which is 180 watts. Just like my old Volvo with leather seats, totally useless. The only other car in our family that had heated seats was my wife's 1985 Audi 5000. The heat was more than adequate. I checked my 2000 MM S again yesterday without the heater switch off and the heat from under my tail was strictly body heat, same exactly as earlier that day with switch on.
    fairwood
  • Fairwood. I have used the seat heaters a couple of times, but it was last spring on the occasional cold day. I thought they worked pretty good. Nice and toasty within 5 minutes or so. I had to kneel on the ground and bend my neck like a giraffe to see under there. Dont know if there is any way I can fit my hands though. Will try it sometime today.
    Brady
  • AUGHHH!!! Outside temperature was about 50F and I drove about 4 miles to a friend's house, stayed about 45 minutes, started my 2000 MM S with 38,000 miles on the clock and it ran rough as h*ll, as though only 3 cylinders were firing and the motor was tumbling, shaking the car a bit. That settled down within 10 seconds or less and of course that bane of all Mazda owners - the Check Engine Light - flashed for a few seconds then stayed on steadily.
    Car ran normally, rpm's normal, really took off when gas pushed hard, etc. Drove 4 miles home, turned engine off, then re started and light came on again. Let it cool for 3 or 4 hours and went out and of course light came on again. I have always used premium gas, currently about 3/4 tank used with a bottle of injector cleaner put in at time of fill up. This was a preventative measure, not a necessary thing. I did this once before at around 34,000 miles.
    If I am to believe other posts here and on other Mazda help sites then it is the 02 sensor or sensors (there are 4 of them I believe), or several other mysterious computerized sensors.
    I have always turned my gas cap at least 4 turns on every car I have owned over the past 20 years or more and it is not the gas cap being loose. Yesterday I did top up the coolant reservoir with about 10 oz. of water and the system hissed when I opened the cap. The car had been sitting overnight so was cold. That would indicate that the gasket is in good condition and the system is well sealed to hold the positive pressure that long. If I am to believe many other posts here then the light should go off in a day or two. Then it will come on again, then off again, the....... well you get the idea. I do have extended warranty which covers most things including the timing belt. As I have stated in previous posts, this is the first car in years that I can't wait to get in and just go. It is also the first car I have owned in close to 50 years that scares the h*ll out of me for all the electronic sensors that seem to go belly up at the drop of a hat. Is the bar open yet?? fairwood
  • I am surprised that no one has been here since the 4th (now the 6th). Anyway, after 6 or 7 local trips last few days the light finally went out. Thinking back on it I believe what happened was this: Just as the motor was catching I might have let go of the key just a tad too soon (this has happened to us all at one time or another I am sure)and the engine tumbled a bit but did catch. This may have caused a slight misfire and the O2 sensors are very sensitive to such matters and after a number of starts with no further problems the computer clears itself. It may retain the code or may clear it out. No matter, it looks like I can breathe again and stop sitting on the edge of the seat. What is the procedure or whatever to join in tomorrow's open line at 9pm eastern time? Hello - anyone there? fairwood
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Thanks for asking, fairwood, I was going to post this anyway:

    The weekly Mazda chat returns as "Mazda Mania" tomorrow night at 9pm EDT/6 pm PDT!

    Click on this link at that time: /direct/view/.ef1b553

    (The link can also be accessed from the Town Hall Welcome page, BTW - just scroll down looking on the right for the chat icon. The Mazda Mazia Chat will have its own icon soon.)

    Hope to see everyone there!

    :-)
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    As far as your ck engine light is concerned, it seems to be a bugaboo in all brands. It even came on intermittently in my Oldsmobile when the brake fluid was low. Go figure that one. And it seems that it usually has little significance except for pollution control.

    By the way, your inference the Mazda electronic sensors "seem to go belly up at the drop of a hat", isn't borne out by anything else I have seen. I believe they are just doing the job that our governments require. I read on the BMW and other sites of the same problems with ck engine lights.
  • I had the opportunity today to compare my Canadian Mazda Millenia owner's manual for 2000 with the American version. Some interesting little tidbits and differences, including the pollution control requirements in each country. Of special note here is that it states the Check Engine Light can be triggered by a blown fuse in the "cabin" as they call it. So you blow a fuse for the sunroof tilt or something that you might seldom if ever use and be plagued by the engine light being on but the car running in top notch condition. We have a number of after market auto parts outlets but none that I know of have the free code readouts like you have (Pep Boys etc). From what I have read here and on other sites the Mazda dealers charge up to $70 (U.S. dollars) just to take a code reading. Someone has to pay for all that computerized equipment, but all at once? fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Mazda uses OBDII which can be read out by any auto repair shop. The connector is required to be accessible on all of them, so I don't see why it would cost more to check a Mazda than Ford. My Chevy/Olds dealer charged me $55 to read out my '95 Olds 88. The part I remain confused on is whether all codes are stored now, or if the light has to be on when you go to the shop.
  • steevo2steevo2 Posts: 33
    97 Mill-S. 79K miles. Check engine light on. AutoZone checked the codes and got errors on 2 O2 sensors, MAF sensor and #6 cylinder misfire. I read comments by a Mazda mechanic on another forum that 80% of the O2 sensors that he replaced were not bad. Since I've been using the 87 octane for a few tank fulls I'm wondering if I might have just 'gunked up' something. Maybe a bottle of Techron and back to the premium gas will clear things up ... or is that just wishful thinking? I'm going to try it anyway and report back. Stay tuned...
Sign In or Register to comment.