Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda Millenia

1121122123125127

Comments

  • im about to trade a 93 jeep for a 1997 mazda millenia im told all it needs is a axle but i just wanna see if anyone can give me some advice on if its a good choice or not and does anyone know what the stock features are? ive seem some are diff in each car so i dont know if its stock or not?
  • I own a 1997 mazda millenia ,it is a 2.5 liter engine with the side way engine..there are
    two different enginesfor this yr. mazda, I have the larger one. but I have had it for a little over four yrs. now and have had only two times that it needed work of any magnitude and
    that was to replace the water pump and the other was to replace the main two belts.it has been a jewel of a car and still is.I have 1hundred and fourty-six thousand miles on this car,and still counting,of course I take pretty good care of it and that counts for a lot also.it is fully loaded and it only cost $ 5,243.00 and had 73,426 thousand miles on it at purchase time. all in all I am well pleased with it.
  • Boy, you must be a risk taker and not risk adverse!!

    The Mazda Millenia doesn't have an axle, per se, but has front wheel drive that features 2 transaxles, each going to a ft. wheel, surrounded by struts (like shock absorbers)--I would love to hear how the previous owner determined that it needs an axle---was it in an accident or is this just wear & tear? How many miles on car?? Was the oil clean or black?? Can it be road tested at all or are you going to trust that it doesn't overheat, have bad brakes, etc., etc. Very hard for me to buy a car I can't start cold and drive around in----too many possible problems that can't be diagnosed!!

    I'd pass on this trade and look for one w80K mi or so and can be road-tested and/or looked at by a good mechanic (for around $50 and worth every penny!)

    Millenia's came as standard (no sunroof, cloth seats and few goodies) or deluxe (sunroof, leather seats, 6-disc CD changer in trunk, lots of creature comforts--make sure rack & pinion steering boot is intact and that NO FLUILDS are leaking---put some cardboard under the car after test drive and wait 10 min, looking for any leaks---is oil clear or black?? Check tire wear--should be even and not just on one edge--stuff like that---GOOD LUCK!!

    Aloha, Mike
  • Have you fixed your problem?? I have a 1996 S model doing the samething. I would love to know what it is.
  • pps708pps708 Posts: 1
    hi,
    i have a millenia s 2001,which over heated had to change the engine.after fixing the new engine when the car is started the silencer of the car becomes very hot turning red and the car doesnt move as it suppose to.pls need some help with this
  • IM having sa codes p1521-1522 and miss fire on piston #3, but every time
    that i put the scanner a new code comes on. But still miss fire on piston #3.

    i was wondering if you resolve the problem on those codes and if the gas that we put on the car should be 89plus. Any tip will be appreciate.
  • First, 89 octane gas is fine, although it would be best if you ran 90+---what I do is run 89 and add an ontane booster/fuel injection cleaner bottle every fill up

    I have found that the distributors on these cars frequently go bad---sit down---they cost over $500 to replace!!! I have a used one that is working fine and will sell it for $100---let me know---also have your spark plugs wires checked---seems to be a weak link in Millenia's (I've had 3) so wires are always suspect--

    Good luck
    mike @ lifeofreilly@hawaii.rr.com
  • 1996 Millennia s with 109 k miles. For the past 7 or 8 years (since my extended warrantee expired) I have experienced a grinding sound when I turned on the ignition. I would turn off and then on the ignition and everything ok. This happened about once a month so I put up with it. In the past year it has occurred more frequently so I had the starter motor replaced. All of the teeth on the old one were fine, so the repair shop said it might be the flywheel. I had that replaced (there were a number of teeth that were sheared off. Since then (1 and 1/2 months, the grinding noise has happened twice. mechanic said maybe due to weak battery. I replaced that and yesterday got a grinding sound when I started the car. Any theories out there? other than this, the car is mint.
  • Wow---you have spent some serious bucks on your car---you must love it----I'm on my third, but never an S--

    You didn't mention if you had the oil pan checked for the missing teeth---have to drop the pan as simply changing the oil wouldnt necessarily do the job----the weak battery thing just a rip-off----woulf be careful w/that guy---only things I can think of would be dry bearing somewhere like the S/C'er, but it should happen almost everytime---but pulling the oil pan would be my first idea---aloha, Mike
  • hawaiian,

    I don't understand the connection between checking the oil pan and a grinding sound sporatically when I turn on the car. As for "the weak battery thing" my old battery was seven years old. To reiterate: if it is not the starter or the flywheel what could it be? Any Mazda mechanics out there?
  • if i'm correct, everything should line up perfectly. make sure ur mounts are good and do the timing belt and water pump while it's out. i'm looking for an 01 salavge myself since these supposely ase cert mechanics dont know how to work on an s model, so i do my own work. but u should be good with ur spare parts.
  • I'm new to this forum. I hope someone out there can help me. I have a problem with my "neutral safety switch", on my 2000 MM and need to get into the console under the shift arm to replace it. I've looked all around the console, and cannot find a way in. Is the housing around the shift lever snapped on?? I cannot find any screws to remove it. Can anyone pass along HOW to remove the console to get to this area????? Thanks
  • Iboogie I think you have it wrong about Ase certified Mechanics, I am an ASE Master Mechanic and it is not that I do not know.... HOW, to work on them, it is I choose not to!!! What a Pain in the butt!!! there is nothing simple about working on that engine, you need a shoehorn, small hands, and an acrobatic hang wire to keep from falling in and not being able to escape....LOL, The only reason I would even own one of these things was if it was given to me! (which mine was) I checked with the dealer and was told that the short block # and the cylinder head # s are different on 98+up, however, 95-97 are the same, so unless anyone else knows what the differences are on these blocks I am assuming they ARE different and NOT a job I want to take a chance on doing again. Thanx for your input and good luck on your Quest
  • I have the same problem. The code says it's a catalytic converter issue on warm-up.....huh? After searching off and on for a while I found that this is common(the light) and is usually caused by carbon build-up on the exhaust valve/s.
  • so ever since i bought my 2001 mazda millenia, 2.5L, i have had nothing but problems...probably should have done more research prior to purchase...in any case, my check engine light is on with the following code P0400 which is the EGR problem; Question is, does this have to be fixed and can this device (that's causing the problem) create any other problems or basically stop my car from running?
    I took it to a rather good mechanic and he took the part out, cleaned/blowed it and said that there doesn't seem anything wrong with it. he reset the computer and of course the light came back on. sometimes it stays lit, sometimes it flashes. He mentioned that the problem with the EGR valve could also be related to relay switches that are in line; can this be the case?

    notable other problems with this trash car:
    1. heated seats - yeah right, they go out of style like MC Hammer and his baggy pants. i get it fixed and they go out in a matter of a month (at the dealer).
    2. air bad light - had it checked and done at the dealer now 3 times in 4 years...still blinking...tired of getting it fixed.
    3. Hesitation when accelerating or changing from lower gear.
    4. head lights and fog lights - i have replaced the lamps about a dozen times; they go out within a matter of weeks left and right. absolutely ridiculous

    In summary, my experience with my mazda have been rather bad. I will never ever purchase another mazda as long as i'm alive. As soon as my payments are over (yeah i bought it used about 4 years ago) i am gettin rid off that junk.
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,415
    It always amazes me the number of people who say, "I will never buy a ____ again!" after having experienced a badly maintained car, an abused car or an actual lemon. Like other makes, Mazda has some well-rated models and some not so much. Even with highly rated cars quality-wise there are anecdotal stories of disasters. For what it is worth, I had two Millenias (though not recently) and they were quality built, reliable cars. However, maintenance is important, and when buying one of these used, a very through diagnostic evaluation is in order.

    That said, you have some problems with your electrical system (I never had to replace a bulb on either of my Millenias...95 and 00 and the heated seats always worked perfectly). The hesitation may indicate problems with the oxygen sensors or even with the supercharger if you have the S model. Be prepared for big bucks to fix. Better maybe just keep driving it, baby it, change the oil often, and get rid of it when you can. But the electrical problems should be addressed.

    When the check engine light blinks, it means you have more than one code (problem) going on. Good luck, but condemning all Mazdas isn't going to help with the mess you have now, and won't avert one in the future. Buy a good car (and that is almost any new car these days, or a certified used), and then take care of it religiously.
  • Hello all. I have an 02 Millenia P and need some help. I need the following lamps replaced and don't know how to get them out:

    1. Front left side marker (amber)
    2. Left front parking lamp (between high and low beam)
    3. Same parking lamp on right side
    4. Both fog lamps

    I am not the worlds greatest DIY person, but I would like to do this without paying the outrageous labor the dealer has quoted me. Any instructions and/or diagrams would be helpful.

    Thanks!
  • Please help. I went to a mechanic and they have no idea what is wrong. Its winter and Im afraid to stall in this cold and be stranded.
    My car occasionally while driving OR in gear but stopped at a red light will shake very bad. and it feels like im trying to accelerate but it doesnt want to. But that isnt the case. sometimes im even on cruise control but it seems to struggle.
    Also last week my car is now leaking something from either side near my tires. It makes a whirring noise which is new.
    If anyone can help me answer these questions so I can go to a mechanic and just tell him what to fix, I cannot afford to keep bringing it in and paying a diagnostic fee and they can't fix my issues.
    Thanks so much.
  • this car is a night mare. 1995 mazda millennia s its turbo charged. . put 1000 in it to get it inspected. check engine light blinking. reads misfire by mechanic.sputters when taking off and up hill doesnt wanna kick in.does eventually kick into overdrive and takes off like a bat outta hell. tcs light kicks on after warms up a bit. [ what is tcs] mechanic said traction control, but few people say its torque conv.?? it sputters kinda jerking like its slipping in gear or something. burns a quart of oil a week on average.if idles too long over heats but cools after drive a few secs.
    some people say cat conv,also when at a light it rocks back and forth like sputter. jerking . some say plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, some say torque conv, some say map sensor, erg. too many he say she say. dont know what to do. my hubby got this car from friend,, i use that term lightly. for 100 dollars and i keep dumping money into it. i cant afford any more guessing games. does any one have an answer,PLEASE. parts are way expensive.i am really hating this car . it seems to be a piece of junk.
    i never should have sold my 97 jeep loredo, straight 6 4 lit engine. what an [non-permissible content removed] i was to let that go.
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,415
    The 95 Mazda Millenia was released in early 94...you are dealing with a 17 year old car with a very high tech engine and supercharger. These cars needed good maintenance, and you got a very old (and probably very tired) car for $100. The check engine light blinking means you have more than one code problem. TCS is traction control. It flashes when traction control is doing its job, and comes on when it is not.

    If you got the car for $100, it was shot. Don't keep dumping money into it. You likely need a new supercharger (VERY expensive), oxygen sensors (not cheap). The engine needs major work...it should not be burning oil. Even if you spent $5,000, you would not likely fix the problems and you would still have a very old car that would need regular maintenance. I say don't put another penny into repairs. Someone already ruined what was a good car. Drive it until you can get something else. Keep oil in it, use the most premium gas you can find, and be patient with all the kicks and sputters...you aren't going to fix those.

    Next time you think you want a 15-20 year old car for day-to-day use, get it inspected before you buy, and try to find something simple (no high tech, no turbos, no superchargers, no high compression engines, and not anything loaded with a lot of toys and options). Meanwhile, if you shop around, you could pick up a 10 -12 year old Taurus for example for not much money. There are many other examples. Something with an understressed engine, and something very common that most mechanics have some experience with. Consider it all tuition in the school of life.
  • my 95 mazda millenia will not pick up speed i just put a power steering idler pulley on and i have a new transmission. can somebody please tell me what can be wrong
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,415
    Hopefully it is not the S model. The S has the only Miller cycle engine that was sold here. While it tended to work flawlessly, no more were introduced and it is a difficult engine to service. Just changing plugs is a major deal. If you really still love the car for some reason, find a mechanic who has some experience with the Millenia S and get an assessment. At best, with a 95 Millenia it is worth a few hundred dollars at sale or trade in. Don't sink a lot of money into a car which at this stage of its life will need a lot of repairs and replacements, unless it is one you want to keep for a collection or occasional use. If it is your main ride, for all it may cost you, get something simpler or more reliable. Good luck to you.
  • its not th s model and i just spoke with a mechanic and they said it might be my fuel injectors
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,415
    Hey, run some injector cleaner through it before you spend more $$ on the mechanic. Worth a try.
  • I have 1999 Millenia and the cruise control is not working. To raise or lower the steering column is done by an electric motor. Short of replacing the motor what is may be causing this issue. I have search for a possible blown fuse to repair both of the issue. Any help is greatly appreciated
  • Hi,
    I just purchased a pre-owned 2002 Mazda Millenia in Oct 2009. I would like to know what are the timeframes I need to do a "Full Service Vs Oil Change" etc.

    Since I am not from US, I would like to know what all should I do, to keep my car in good shape. From the place I come from, I use to give it for full service after every 6 months. I am not sure if it is the same here.

    Looking for help. :)
  • Just got a diagnosis re: "check engine" light for my 1999 Mazda Millenia S. Codes that showed up:
    P0170 (Fuel Trim Malfunction - Bank 1);
    P0173 (Fuel Trim Malfunction - Bank 2);
    P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected);
    P0431 (Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold - Bank 2);
    P1173 (P11XX - Manufacturer Controlled Fuel and Air Metering)

    Any idea as to what I am looking at with regard to the problem and potential cost of repair? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • On most cars if your check engine light is blinking instead of solid light then it usually indicates cylinder misfire (p0303). on cars with TCS if there is cylinder misfire then PCM (computer) will disable traction conrol system and will display TCS OFF. to fix a cylinder misfire you will have to change spark plug wire(s) (or some newer cars don't have spark plug wires in this case you need to replace the boot that connects spark plug to ignition module). If wires are good then spark plugs could be defective. If the problem is not fixed right away and ignored for a long time then misfire can cause permanent damage to your catalytic converter. Every time cylinder misfires your fuel and air does not burn like its suppose to in a normal combustion and then catalytic converter has to work a lot harder to rearange exhaust gases into a less toxic form, which causes catalyst to overheat and eventually (fail) loose its efficiency - P0431. the fix is to change front catalytic converter (whichever is closest to the engine)
    Cylinder misfire effects engine performance, and catalytic efficiency does not effect performance or gas mileage but you won't pass emmisions inspection.
    P1173, P0173, P0170 are all tied together. I will try not to confuse you. Most four cylinders have only Bank 1, and V6 has two cylinder heads and two exhaust manifolds - bank 1 and 2 becasue cylinders 1,3,5 have one exhaust manifold and cylinders 2,4,6 have another exhaust manifold. Each manifold has its own O2 sensor plus there is usually third O2 sensor after catalytic converter. PCM (computer) uses many sensors such as MAF, IAT, MAP, TPS and Coolant Temp sensor to control fuel to air mixture. If air temp or pressure changes then Air temp sensor or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor gives PCM different signals and PCM increases or decreases duty cycle of fuel injectors to add just enough fuel into each cylinder, and then PCM uses O2 sensors to verify air to fuel mixture in the exhaust. The problem is that PCM can make only minor adjustments to fuel mixtures, and if your fuel pupm or regulator drop fuel pressure then PCM cannot compensate enough and O2 keeps telling PCM that there is not enough fuel or too much fuel for a longer period of time then PCM can throw a codes like: Fues system lean, or Fuel system rich or P1173 Manufacturer Controlled Fuel and Air Metering. Usually in V6 engines if it says only bank 1 or bank 2 Fuel Trim Malfunction then its probably bad O2 sensor or leak in intake or exhaust manifold due to cracks or bad gaskets. But if Both Banks 1 and 2 have improper fuel to air mixtures then it can get tricky. Here are the possible causes: Dirty or faulty IAT, MAF, MAP. Faulty PCV valve, Coolant Temp sensor, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Pump. Colgged Air filter or Fuel filter. Or leak in Air intake syster somwhere between MAF and intake manifold or broken vacuum hoses. Or very unlikly broken or corroded engine wiring harness.
  • Oh and forgot to mention tha any Fuel trim check engine codes are very critical, and computer stops to monitor fuel mixtures and goes into limp mode which reduces engine performance and gives you stinking smelly exhaust and kills your gas mileage. If not taken care of soon, can cause permanent engine problems like blown head gaskets, cracked cylinder heads, and so on.
  • Yes the center trim pops out the you can remove the screws to livt the shifter cover off
Sign In or Register to comment.