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Mazda Millenia

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  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,854
    Don't miss the newest addition to our live chat events here in Town Hall. Join us every Tuesday from 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET for our Mazda Mania Chat!

    Whether you own a Mazda, would like to own a Mazda, or just like going ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM... be sure to stop by and meet and greet your fellow Town Hall users! (We may even pull out some Mazda triva questions)

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  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Quote "you sort of berated me for that".

    Sorry you took it that way. I took your previous statement to mean that Mazda had a serious problem with that light as opposed to other manufacturers. I don't think that is true from what I have read on other forums and the Check Engine Light forum of Edmunds. It seems this is a problem all the way from Kia up through BMW and Mercedes, not especially to Mazda.

    Anyway, my wife said the one in her Oldsmobile is back on, as well as the chime "bonging", and I will check it this evening. Any bets it isn't the brake fluid level again? I'll gladly make that 2 to 1 odds. Now that is a silly function for a Check ENGINE light, let alone the chime which won't even let you have the door open with the radio running even in the auxiliary switch position. Enough talk about the Oldsmobile, but just pointing out it isn't only a Mazda problem.
  • Hey, I have an interesting probelm. I have a 96 2.3l and my TCS, TCS off, and ABS lights are all on. This problem started last winter when it would come on when i intialy began to drive but when I turned it off and restarted it would go away. But now it seems to be on full time. And I've noticed a loss of power as well.

    The dealer says i need to repalce the ECU, and the abs sensor. I am utterly tired of the Mazda dealerships. It seems that waht they do best is reaplce parts.

    I checked the TSB list and there is a TSb for this problem.

    Any help would be great.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    It appears that all of these are tied together. You might want to check for a short in your wiring harness or from the harness to the TCS switch. Also check the fuse to make sure that it is good.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    Since everybody is so talkative I thought I might toss this general information out about timing belts. This is according to the 2002 workshop manual.

    It says for normal driving conditions for US cars:
    2.5L (KL) engine to replace every 105,000 miles or 168,000 km.
    For the 2.3L (KJ) engine replace every 60,000 miles or 96,000 km.

    Now for Canada, Puerto Rico, and unique driving conditions in the US it states the same thing with one exception for the KL engine (2.5L). It says that "if the vehicle is operated in cold districts (below -18 degrees C {0 degrees F}), replace the timing belt at 96,000 km (60,000 miles)."

    Since the timing belt item keeps coming up I thought I would put this out there.
  • Aughh!! No problems all spring and summer until a few weeks ago when the engine tumbled on startup. I posted about that at the time and the light went out after several days and about 6 or 7 cold starts over that time period. It happened again yesterday, started up a warm engine at the grocery store and it didn't tumble per se, it ran rough for a few seconds then cleaned itself up so to speak. Light flashed for a few seconds to get my attention I guess, then stayed on. I expect I will have to live with it for next few days. As before, car ran beautifully afterwards, responding to the gas pedal instantaneously, zipping in and out amongst the little old blue haired ladies in their Civics, etc. While I'm here, has anyone checked into the Tuesday night free-for-all? I checked in the first night (two weeks ago) and thought I had fallen into a childish, immature ranting of 12 year olds. Maybe it was just the timing, maybe it was and is just me. Maybe I'm just too old for that sort of thing in general. Somebody needs a nap!! Hey, that would be me.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    If you can get a code number on your engine light problem I would try and look it up for you in the workshop manual.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    When AutoZone read my code, there was nothing to look up. It gave the code number as the main display, but was also spelled out across the bottom of the display in plain English.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I had assumed by your post on your check engine light that it gives you what is causing the problem. I was talking about a possible solution to the problem. This would be like what I listed for you. This does not mean you can fix it yourself, but it may give you some knowledge if you decide to take it in to get it fixed. As opposed to letting the dealer or anybody else jerk you around and replace everything under the sun and still not fix it. All while they are bleeding you dry.

    Since a number of people are having this problem with the check engine light going on I was wondering about how many miles everybody has on their cars when this starts happening? It appears that it is not just a problem with the S but also the P model. Yes I know that it happens with all cars but I am just talking about the Mills here.
  • I am 99% sure that the cause of the light coming on is that raw fuel is getting to the O2 sensor(s) and that is one reason the CEL comes on. If no further incidents occur then the computer turns itself off after a number of cold starts. I believe that time is a factor here also. Seven or eight starts within a period of 5 minutes or so will not do the trick. From what I have read there are as many as four O2 sensors in the 2.3L vehicles. There is an upstream and a downstream sensor in the exhaust sytem and where the other two are heaven only knows. I am not at all worried that something serious has gone wrong, at least not at this point. These computerized and "sensorized" cars from all makers around the world seem to be a work in progress. Those public school dropouts at work again? I now have a legitimate excuse to drive my MM S every day without my wife snickering at me as I don my Indy gear!
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    My light started coming on intermittently at about 12000 miles. I have an appointment at 8:00 Friday morning at Lakeland Mazda to check and repair the problem. Mine is still under warranty, so there will be no charges involved. They show 4 1/2 hours to replace the knock sensor, and it lists for $168.

    The woman I talked to on the phone said a loner car is not available unless my car is kept overnight. But I have a paper called "Mazda Driver's Assurance Plan" that came with the car stating:

    "Take your car in for warranty work at a participating Mazda dealership, and you can get a loaner car at no charge. Just ask. You won't have to arrange your day around a repair schedule, ask friends for a ride or catch up on your magazine reading while you wait."

    I decided to take that discussion up with them Friday when I can talk to the manager if necessary to determine if they consider themselves a "participating Mazda dealership". Trying to do it on the phone anymore is about impossible unless you are willing to sit and listen to their telephone advertising for a few hours. The blarb on that automatic telephone system says they have the best service anywhere, but I'm going to determine that for myself Friday.

    They will certainly be taken off my list or people to deal with if they won't live up to their advertising.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I do appreciate what you are doing and didn't mean for it to appear otherwise.

    Again, thanks for your information.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I understood what you were saying so I did not mean to come off in a bad light. Quite honestly I would never have bought this manual if I was not going to keep the car until it drops dead. I figure since I have it and I can be of some help to other people then why not. By the way I was told the same thing when I bought my car about the loaner car. Let us know how it turns out. Again sorry if it came off bad sounding.

    Fairwood, I looked in on the Mazda chat last night for about a minute, literally. It was about 20 minutes after it started and know one was talking. The few people that came in after me were asking what the discussion was about and know one knew.
  • Just as I said, the CEL went out this afternoon after 2+ days and 9 starts, at least 3 of which were warm starts. Sounds like that chat room is dead in the water. fwatson: wish I were within a two hour drive of Lakeland now. First time in 9 or 10 years that we have not been in our condo in FL by this time. A fellow musician from the early '60's is the food or restaurant critic for the Lakeland Times Ledger or whatever the paper is. (Trent Rowe).
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I would think it is still quite nice up there. We are having glorious weather right now. As you know it is one of the two nicest times in Florida. Were you with a band down here?

    The cycling period on my CE light has been shorter than yours. It has always lasted less than two days with probably about 5 startups. If all goes well Friday I should be rid of the annoyance, but it is something I could live with if I had to.
  • or words to that effect. Olde Englishe was never my strong suit. It is 33F outside our patio doors as I write this and we have had glorious fall weather all along except for a few days when winter practised its thing. Another fellow and myself started a 4-piece group up here around 1959 or '60 and Trent Rowe was our drummer, introduced to us by our piano player. That lasted about 2 years (weekend gigs as they say) then I was invited to join a 10 piece dance band that was the top band in the surrounding area. We played on CBC radio on Saturday nights and we used to get letters from as far away as California since CBC radio stations were 50,000 watts and covered much of North America after the sun went down. Haven't touched a trumpet in 31 years. Sorry madam moderator for this off-topic post.
  • What are the symptoms if there is something wrong with the knock sensor? Does a faulty knock sensor always result in the engine light coming on? I am simply trying to determine if the roughness and a low rumble/pinging noise could be as a result of the knock sensor. I use premium fuel. I have a 2001 Millenia S with appx. 56,000 kms.
  • What engine do you have? If it is a 2.3L supercharged then premium is the right gas to use. If it is a 2.5P then use 87 octane. On two recent occasions I have had a rough engine for several seconds immediately after starting. Engine clears itself but I live with the Check Engine Light on for a few days and several starts.
    My main reason for this post is to let everyone know that you can see what the tilt steering wheel motor package looks like. Go to eBay, do a search on Mazda Millenia and go to item # 2439023613. As has been discussed here in recent past postings, this is overkill to the nth degree. A simple mechanical system with only a few moving parts would do a much better job and likely never fail in a hundred years. And cost the maker and the buyer a lot less money.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Quote "What are the symptoms if there is something wrong with the knock sensor?"

    --------------------

    With my 2.5 P unsupercharged engine, there has been no symptom of any kind except for that annoying CEL. I have intentionally gone full throttle acceleration numerous times when the engine light is on to see if there is any sign of a ping or knock, and there is none.

    Your 2.3 S depends on conditions not seen in the 2.5, so I can't give you any help there. I am having mine repaired just to get rid of the light.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    That is the entire steering column from a '97. And it sure is an overcomplicated looking thing.

    You can access it by just using the number you gave in the first search box when ebay opens. I just copy/pasted it. I have the auto-tilt turned off, but you can still manually adjust it by using the button on the left side of the steering column.
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