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Mazda Millenia

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  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    After searching and searching, bouncing from I30s to Lincoln LSs to ES300s to whatever else caught my eye, the search is over. Last night I drove home my 2001 Millenia S, black with gray underneath, 4800 miles (yes, 4800 miles), certified preowned from Mazda, for $17,500. Dealer also agreed to call me when he got a Millenia in with chromes, and for labor cost he will swap my rims with the chromes.

    My final decision last night was between my new Millenia and a 2003 Mazda 6, 8500 miles, $19,995, 6 cyl sport, leather, heated seats, sunroof, etc. I liked the way the 6 drove, liked the interior layout, the overall "new", contempoary design of the car. But I couldn't stop looking at the Millenia. I've always wanted an S, love the color, really love the miles, satisfied with the price.

    I look forward to many years of satsified ownership and will be checking in with progress and any questions. And I do have a question. It seems as if the driver's sideview mirror is slightly distorted. Not like the designed "distortion" of the passenger side mirror, but distorted all the same. I was wondering if this is common, correct, or I have a problem. I also thought the sideview mirrors were heated with the cold weather package, but can't figure out if they are.

    And yes, a minor complaint. Unless I am missing it somewhere, there is no light or anything indiciating when the fog lights are on. This is very annoying and very bizarre. The master cruise control switch has a little amber light, but the fog light switch does not.

    In any case, I love the car already. An Infiniti dealer wanted to sell me a 2000 I30t with 45,000 miles for $18995, and would not budge on price. When I told the salesman that I purchased the Millenia, he sneered. They just have no clue.

    I have enjoyed reading this discussion area, and have learned a lot.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I can only answer a couple of your questions.

    First, I have had no distortion in the sideview mirror.

    The other concerns the fog lights. They only operate when you have the main headlights on in "low beam" position. I too had a problem getting used to whether they were on or not, and resorted to turning them on/off reflecting in someone elses bumper. I found out that once turned on they stayed on and operated when the low headlights were activated. I agree, it is a strange situation as is the position of the main cruise control switch.

    These are very minor though and you get used to it. You will also have to get used to the transmission shifting at very low speeds.

    Congratulations on your new MMS.

    erinsquared, I hope that supercharger is OK, because it is about a $5000 problem if it goes out.
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    I did notice the transmission shifting at low speeds. I had the cruise set on 60 mph going through a hilly, up and down, slightly twisty county road and noticed the cruise flucuating quite a bite, especially going down hill, with numerous up and down shifts. I guess that relates to the transmission.

    Yes, the cruise and fog light switches are strange. I just don't get why no amber light like the cruise control switch. Oh well, can't have everything.
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    I got the impression that the car had heated sideview mirrors from Edmunds. Pricing out the car, one of the options to select was "heated sideview mirrors". I assumed I had them since the car has the 4 seasons package, but I saw no mention of them in the owners manual.

    Second, the owners manual discusses a "mid-range" adjustment on the radio, along with the bass, treble, etc. I have the bose radio, six cd in-dash, and I thought that was the top of the line. But I do not have the "mid-range" adjustment feature. So I don't have the top of the line stereo?
  • Hi, everyone. This is my first post.
    Purchased a 2001 Mill S demo with 4000 miles in Oct 2001, I have 30,000 miles on it now. I’m running out of warrantee and am a bit desperate.
    In black and silver with chrome wheels ($590+ to replace) and a timeless design it is one of the most beautiful cars now and for a long time to come, and I would like to keep it.
    BUT, since day one I've had a problem with the ride. It seems under certain road conditions, i.e., wavy road surface, sharp bumps or pot holes, and certain speed bumps, it feels like the suspension leaves the frame for a brief second. Sometimes the front end crashes (very hard metal to metal sound). Very disconcerting. Sometimes the front end overreact to bumps. At other times, again on certain road surfaces at speeds more than 40 mph, I feel an oscillation. Sometimes, I feel as the temperature drops, lets say, below 32 degrees the ride improves. I feel there is something definitely not right with the struts/shocks.
     I’ve contacted Mazda in California by phone early on, and they tell me that the low profile tires with a sports suspension is the way it is supposed to feel. I say, baloney. I’ve been driving cars for 40 years, all makes and models, and I can feel if something is not right. I’ve been to four different dealers over the last two years and they claim they cannot duplicate. They look at me like I’m a head case. I just don’t trust them. Wheel weights have fallen off after they tried to balance the wheels within a hundred feet of their service bay. Another dealer wrote it up as a model 626. Where does a dealer in Manhattan, NY test drive the car? On the 6th floor of their garage? I think the dealers just don’t see enough of this model car.
      One reason I’ve been so long with this is - I had a chrome wheel that could not be balanced early on. I thought this could be the problem. Mazda said I did it by hitting a pothole or something. I said no, it just a bad wheel. Finally, 18 months later, after much discussion, they agreed to replace the wheel, gratis. Naturally, the ride improved, but did not solve the problem.
    BTW this bad wheel masked a bad rotor problem, which was discovered at the 18,000 mile mark. I paid $468 (ridiculous) to cut the rotors and replace the front brake pads. Too late they said, I have to pay.
    I’ve had this car at several local mechanics also, and they said everything is normal. I’m beginning to feel that it is truly all in my head and nothing is wrong. So posting here is my last hope of discovering what if anything is wrong.
    I’m hoping someone out there may have comments or suggestions that point to a nut, a bolt, a spring, or something I can use to help the dealer figure it out next time I visit.

    PS. If it helps - The car tracks straight and true. Tire wear is even. Ride is very good when not being tested by bumps or holes. No shake in the steering wheel. About 5-8 thousand miles of tread left on the Dunlop 5000's ($290 at Sears to replace).
    A mechanic on the radio said, “poor shocks, replace them with Koni, Bilsteins, KYB, or the like”. But, I can’t find any after market shocks/struts for this car and I am willing to buy.
    If I can't resolve with Mazda,does anyone know where to buy? I don’t want Mazda replacements. I might have the same problem and the dealer just over charges. Thanks
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    Heated mirrors are turned on with the rear defrost switch. I think if you have heated seats (easy to check that!), then you have the 4 seasons package with heated mirrors.
    Anyway, you'll see they work once ice starts melting off the mirrors...

    Bose does not have mid-rage tone control, only bass and treble.

    Tomek ('01 S w/Bose and 4 seasons)
  • lammy1lammy1 Posts: 1
    Hey Millenia Owners - looking for some suggestions or indications that anyone else has experienced this problem. When I go to fill-up on gas in my 1999 Milennia S, lately it will not take a full tank. The gas stops pumping, when I get in the car, it shows that it is only 3/4 full on the guage, was wondering if this was common, and suggestions as to what the problem may be. Friends suggest that the float inside the gas tank is no longer working. Any suggestions???

    Lammy
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    After the pump stops for the first time, I can get usually 2 more gallons in. It shows full either way, but if I get those 2 gallons in the fuel gauge needle is pegged on the top rather than merely showing full.
    It seems that with some nozzles on certain gas pumps it is more difficult to top it off. I had exactly same issue with Nissan Stanza years ago and was told by the Nissan service that "it's how Japanese cars are" and never really contested that (Nissan Stanza, built in Smyrna, Tennessee...). So, I never really questioned the same behavior in Millenia.
    Hope this helps,
    Tomek
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    problem I have not had. But a word of advice from what I have read. Don't force fill your fuel tank. These cars have a pressurized fuel system, and when the pump shuts off, you should too.

    It it actually does not fill, try a different station. If it still won't fill you have a problem with the fuel system that needs repaired.
  • My 18 yr old son is considering trading his 2000 Ford Exployer Sport (106k mi) for 1996 Mazda Mellenia (90k mi). We have no experience with "foreign cars" looking for any suggestions/advise.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    is that a loaded question. ;-0

    The Millenia are excellent cars, but 90000 is a lot of use by who knows who. If it is an S, it may end up costing more to fix than it costs to buy if that Supercharger goes bad. And if it is a P or an S which has not had the timing belt changed he is in for a very expensive job to do so.

    I love my MM, but I'm not at all sure I would buy one with 90000 miles on it unless I personally knew the present owner and could see all the records proving it has had all necessary maintenance. If nothing else I'd pay a very trusted mechanic to do an end to end inspection of it or any other car with that much milage.

    And coming out of a truck he is going to feel like he is sitting on the ground. The MM is very low.

    Good luck.
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    Thanks fwatson and tomekk for your responses. Here's something you may or may not have come across.

    I have had my "new" MMS, 2001, for less than 48 hours. It has been quite cold here in NJ. I was standing directly behind the car, just checking it out, when I saw a rather long icile hanging from the left rear. Looking underneath, the icile was hanging from the driver side "tow hook" just underneath the rear bumper. The tail pipe is of course on the passenger side. I cannot figure out where this moisture is coming from, to trickle down the tow hook and form this icicle, which is nearly touching the ground. I did run my hand under and around the area and did feel air rushing by, out the rear of the car. The car was running at the time and the HVAC system was on. I am thinking this icicle is a byproduct of the HVAC system, but I have never seen icicles forming like that before on any other car.

    I am going to call the mazda dealer and speak to service, but I thought I'd throw the issue out here.
  • Hello folks. I've been lurking in this discussion group for months now. I'm interested in automotive "value" seams, those places where the "value" of the vehicle is more than the price. From all our your comments, it seems that the Milly fits this, more car than the money would indicate.

    So, today I bought a 2000 Milly from an auction. Mazda Credit dumped the car in the auction on a snowy day here in Ontario. Few buyers, and I bought the car for $9400 US. $12,200 Cdn. It is pearl white, has leather and a sunroof. That's all I know about it, I haven't even seen it yet. My broker is delivering the car to my mechanic for complete fluid changes and safety certification. I appreciate the description of all your experiences. I'll report in as I figure this thing out.

    Lots of snow here, zero F. I hope it's good in cold weather. It's my winter beatewr for my '87 Supra Turbo.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I hate to bring this up because it sounds to rediculeous to mention, but are you sure that all the bolts are still in the suspension system. It almost sounds like some bolts are missing and the whole front end is moving like there is no struts attached to it. I guess that you would also pick up a rattle in the front end if this was the case.

    Lammy1 I agree with tommek in that I can normally put in an additional 1.5 to 2 gallons more gas after the initial shut off of the pump.

    Rpdrpd on your icicle, I read someplace that all cars have a drain line for their a/c. So I would assume that the Mills is in the back therefore the icicle.
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    I did talk to Mazda service and they had no idea what I was talking about. I am leaning toward's the drain line idea, but would like to know for sure if the MM has its drain line coming out the rear of the car. Any confirmation?

    I do love this car. I turn down the dash lighting at night a bit because it is rather bright. Love that the heated seats cycle on and off based on the thermostat setting. My 97 MM's heated seats would roast my butt, then I would have to turn the heat off, only to turn it back on again. Annoyances like the steering wheel radio/cruise controls not being lit, no auto-on headlights, lack of fog-light on indicator, are completely overshadowed by the MMS's looks, especially the 2001 re-do, the ride, comfort and performance.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    Now that I am finished thinking out loud about the absurd I have a few questions. You never mentioned if the car nose dives when you hit your brakes? Have you pushed down on the front and the back of the car to see how much the car rebounds? Is there a big difference between the front and the back rebound? Have you taken your car to a front end specialist to let them check it out?

    Rpdrpd you mentioned that you had the hvac running when you noticed the icicle and then you felt air coming from that area. Did you turn your hvac off and then check for air?
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Quote " I am leaning toward's the drain line idea, but would like to know for sure if the MM has its drain line coming out the rear of the car. Any confirmation?"

    The AC drips from the right end of the firewall (glovebox)area.
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    I figured as much, fwatson. And no, kcm8419, I didn't turn off the HVAC to see if the air still blew/blowed. That would have made too much sense!

    Running the HVAC on auto I see that the A/C is always on. Yet last night I did not see any icicles, and it was cold enough. It will be even colder tonight so I will continue checking.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    Common sense says that the a/c drain would be up front but I thought I would put it out there. I do have another suggestion though and that is the sunroof. It sounds strange but looking up in the '02 service manual it says that there are two drain lines for the sunroof. One for the front of it and one for the back of it. The drawings are not big enough to get a lot of detail but it looks like the back one comes out by one of the rear wheel wells. My guess is the left rear wheel well. Hope this helps you.
  • I have a ‘00 MM S with 65K miles on it, bought in late 2002 for $14,700. At 58K, the dreaded “Check Engine” light came on and I learned that all the oxygen sensors needed to be replaced. This came, with parts and labor, to $1200. Now, having driven 7k mi in the last year, the CEL has come back to haunt me. At first, the garage (not a dealership) said that “Unknown Code” showed up on the diagnostic test. The light was reset. Two days later, it came back on and the mechanics tell me that the there is an uneven firing of the cylinders. I noticed a moment of roughness just before the light came on. To repair this will apparently mean new ignition coils and to be sure to get the problem solved I will need six of them at $240 each and labor of $225, totalling around $1750. They tell me that I should have this work done soon as raw gas going into the system will eventually wreck those really expensive oxygen sensors. I have noticed no degradation in gas mileage or performance; in fact, the car runs like a clock. I am surprised that a four year old car that has been well-treated needs this much expensive work related to the electronics. I will have spent more in two years maintaining this car than in seven years with my Integra. Do I have a lemon or does someone have a better idea? I see that other posters here have gotten by with just replacing one coil, although the labor is as much as changing all six of them. But $450 is a lot more attractive than $1700. The CEL is on steadily and does not flash. So this is what happens when you fall for a pretty face...
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