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Mazda Millenia



  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    There have been past posts with similar issues, but it is usually related to the rim being bent slightly from potholes, etc. I'm no expert, but it may be possible to have the rim refinished on the inside. You could also go to the dealer and see if they can do anything. May be a lost cause though. Too bad they didnt up the warranty to 4/50k until the 2000 or 2001 year.
  • Have not posted in a while.

    Your rim is probably OK. When I changed tires, I suddenly had 4 rims with leaks. I had the tires remounted after the rims were cleaned and "lubed" with the standard "sealant" that tire shops usually have.

    All the tires leak less air now than they did with the original tires.

    If you have a bent rim that is bad enough to cause a leak, you will probably notice it while driving. Been there; done that.

    Hope that helps.
  • erinsquarederinsquared Posts: 178
    I had the same problem with a slow, leaking tire which would loose about 5 psi per month. The clip-on weights that are used to balance the tire can sometimes prevent the tire bead from making a complete seal, which could cause a slow leak. They removed all of the weights, rebalanced the tire with new weights, and the problem has been solved. Also, make sure that the tire dealer replaces the valve for good measure (mine did this too on a previous attempt to fix the leak, but it did not correct it).
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    Was driving earlier this week and noticed a pretty bad shake coming from the front left tire. Got real bad up around 70+ mph. Thought maybe a weight fell off, so took it in to the tire place. They came back and said it was a bent rim, rebalanced it, and put it on the back left of the car. I drove a good 400 miles yesterday on a trip and it was only noticable up around 60+ mph and when braking. Is it possible to get the rim bent back to normal? Or do I have to buy a whole new rim. I remember reading something on here about being possible to bend the rim back, and wonder if anyone has had that done, and to what degree of success. Thanks.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    there is a special program for the chrome millenia S rims. there have been multiple cases of the finish coming off so mazda has replaced them free of charge. I dont have access to the bulletin/repair info right now but I can get it tomorrow........
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    Rotary, do you have the login info for that link? It asked me for username/password. Also, my rims are not the chrome, they are 16 inch split 5-spoke that came with the 99 and 00 Premium. Any ideas?
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    didnt count on the log can do. anywho it only applies to the chrome wheels that are still under warranty....but some exceptions are made
  • you better BUY that car.....wish that was me, I got a 98 millemuim mileage was 72K for $13K Good Price so so so on the mileage. You better get that car that's a STEAL great price EXCELLENT MILEAGE. My brother has a 95 with $190K miles....and he just replaced the radiator...for $174.00. He installed it himself....

    I love MY 98 Mazda S hunter green with alloy wheels....check me out --->
  • My steering wheel has lost its power to this a electrical problem or is it as simple as replacing a fuse...?

    Please help please RESPOND......Im 5'1 in height and cant drive with the steering wheel locked in the postion as though Im driving a BIG RIG.....BIG TRUCK ....I cant see over the steering column
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    You may be out of luck. I doubt it is just a fuse problem if all the other electronics inside the car are working properly. There have been a bunch of earlier posts on here, with most resulting in replacement of the motor that moves the steering column.
  • erinsquarederinsquared Posts: 178
    I'm almost positive that you need to replace your electric motor. This is not too difficult of a task, but alas the motor kit is pretty expensive ($150-200). I did it myself on my '98 S about two years ago, but if you hire someone, should not take more than an hour's labor for an experienced mechanic.
  • Greetings!....Im driving a 98 Mazada Millemium and it only cost me $13K but with tax $ you do the math.........
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    Millemium!!?? Who is this chick? Does she really not know the name of her own car? Oh, and that is one hell of a 23% tax rate. Glad I am not buying anything in her area.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hang on here - typos are ubiquitous, no need to slam someone. You've probably made a few of those yourself, haven't you? I know I have.

    Jazzygermaine, that does seem like an outrageous amount of money for the tax - is that what you meant to say, $3k in taxes?
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    Not trying to cause trouble. I understand the typo, but it was spelled wrong two different times, both the same spelling. Coincedence, maybe. Just hope she didnt get swindled into paying fraudulent taxes. Let's hope 3K was the typo.
  • wwbradleywwbradley Posts: 25
    Hello my Millenia friends. Many of us northern members suffer with cold bums in the winter because our seat heaters are broken. Toast, like in cold toast.

    I, being a person of determination, decided to do whatever it was going to take to fix the problem. As an engineer, I approached this in a systematic way. I first obtained the wiring diagrams and located all the possible failed components.

    You have to first start with the two fuses that might be blown.

    Next you check the relay behind the rear seat to see if it is powered and delivering twelve volts to the switches.

    Next you have to check the switches to see if they are in fact powered, ready and able to deliver power to the seat heaters. In my case the little lights did not illuminate so I replaced the switches. Getting them took a week. Don't try and pry them out, you have to start inside the center console and remove the panels around them.

    Each seat is a circuit on its own. There is a heating pad inside the seat bottom, and another in the seat back. If either of them is burned out, the seat will not heat. It is possible for one seat to be burned out and not working, while the other one works fine. They are very separate, at least after the relay.

    After I determined that power was being delivered correctly to both seats, and still no heat, I decided to really get into this. This forum contains some real myths about the seat heaters - let me clear these up. You do not have to take apart any of the leather. Once removed, the seats come apart fairly easily from the bottom. You have to remove the hog-rings that hold the main seat cushion in place. This takes hog-ring pliers and some strength. Once you release the hog rings, and are able to lift the seat cushions, you will be able to remove the seat heaters.

    Here's what they look like when they are out:

    Here's some close-ups of the burned wires sticking out.



    It is my opinion that the chance of failure of the fuses, relay and switches are pretty remote. The failures are ninety percent the seat bottom heating element. Failure of the element in the seat back is not very common, and in my case I didn't try and remove them because they worked fine.

    Once you have the element replaced, you have to use those hog-ring pliers and some new hog rings to put everything back together.

    The replacement heating elements are not made by the same company as the originals - probably a good thing. Maybe the replacement parts will be better than the original ones.

    Anybody in Ontario that wants their seat heaters repaired, let me know.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    That's a very helpful message. Thank you!
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    An outstanding post. I don't have seat heaters being in central Florida, but it is too bad that article can't be somehow pinned for future use by those who do. It is difficult to get good information like that, even on BAT and other mechanic forums. But as an electrician those burned areas are scary to me. I sure hope the surrounding materials are fireproof.

    One observation. Quote: "As an engineer, I approached this in a systematic way."

    "While you approach it as an engineer, that is the exact method any good mechanic would use to isolate the problem. I am sure you have greatly cleared things up for some who are experiencing cold butts in St. Paul and Alberta. :-)

    I think your site deserves this link.
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    That was possibly the greatest post of all 3144 on this forum. How much did the replacement parts cost you? My drivers seat does not work and would be very interested in fixing it myself. Once again, awesome post.
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