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Mazda Millenia



  • wwbradleywwbradley Posts: 25
    I'm a Canadian, as you can tell by the little Canadian flag. In Canadian dollars (the "northern peso") the seat heaters are about $160 each, which would be $ 120 dollars each in the coin of the Excited States of America. One seat out, one element replaced and then everything put back in place should run you less than $300 US unless you are being gouged. Like at the dealer.

    Replacing them requires that the seat be removed and disassembled. It's not a very difficult job, but does require hog ring pliers and a set of new hog rings. A hog ring is a little ring about a half inch in diameter, and they secure the seat bottom to the seat frame. There are a couple dozen of these to be pried apart, and then after the job is done, replaced with new ones.

    If your seat heaters don't work, it's more than ninety percent chance it's the elements.

    The next one I do I will photograph the entire process, step by step. Seems to be a lot of interest in this....
  • wwbradleywwbradley Posts: 25
    There exists on the web a complete guide to changing the spark plugs on a Millenia. If you find this helpful, perhaps a nice message to the author could be sent.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Of course the P plugs are far easier to get at. That is only for the S (supercharged) engine. I just mention that so people with MMP's don't download it thinking it applies to their cars. :-)

    But please keep MM information coming, I have googled for various aspects of maintenance on them, and seldom find anything useful.
  • wwbradleywwbradley Posts: 25
    I like to post these very detailed technical posts, but Pat, our moderator seems to find things wrong with them, and deletes them. Then I get mad and leave Edmunds for months. Either I was careful with these last few, or Pat is on holiday....
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    I am here and if you have questions about what is appropriate and inappropriate to post, just email me.

    I have removed only one message that you posted and that occurred about four months ago. It was not a "detailed technical post"; it was a message that contained some thoughts and observations about your vehicle. It also, very unfortunately, included a violation of the Membership Agreement. You and I had an extended email exchange about why it was necessary for me to remove it. If you still have questions, please feel free to get back to me off-line and we'll talk some more.

    The Membership Agreement and the Rules of the Road (links at left and above) try to explain our community standards, but if anything is unclear, I am more than happy to try to help. Just let me know.

  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    Excuse me if I missed this from your post, but what year is your car? I assume that you have the S model.

    A second question and this may sound stupid but what are hog-rings?
  • wwbradleywwbradley Posts: 25
    Hello KCM. My MIllenia is a 2000 S and it's that car that I took the seat heaters out of.

    Hog rings are small circles of wire, probably about a half inch in diameter. They are a fairly high quality steel because bending them takes a special type of plier, and when they are bent, they stay bent. They are a very common item used in upholstery and fences.

    Here's some pictures of hog rings, and if you surf this site a bit, they'll show you some pliers.
  • wwbradleywwbradley Posts: 25

    That's an even better picture of hog rings and a pair of pliers.
  • ...just wanted to say thanks to everyone for helping me figure out my millenia problems. I will be attempting to change the o2 sensors due to the check engine light being on. It will not pass emmissions inspection without being changed so the dealer has alreay screwed me twice by me letting them change 2 already at over 300 a pop. I went to where they have the manual to show you how to clear the codes as well as change the o2 sensor. Wish me luck, i will report back later with hopefully good news. As for the rim problem posted earlier I would like to see the retail bulletin as to if it is covered or not. Everyone I have talked to with a 98/99/00 with those rims start to have air leakage around 50k or 2nd set of tires. I have had several opinions and have looked at the rims myself. I looks like they oxydize (sp?) and rust from the inside which does wear on the tire and cause air leakage. Only a few ways to fix it. If you want a quick fix have the tire guy use some of that rubber cement/sealant and put it all over the rust spots and around the whole inside lips of the rim. This should temporarily stop the leaks. Also use new valve stems and seal around it too. Otherwise you'll need to get a wire brush and try to get it all off and smooth before mounting the tires, even refinishing them but that can get pricey. Thanks again!!
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    Since nobody has much too say right now I thought that I would bring up a discussion that tends to appear about every 1-2 years, mpg's. Since gas prices are high I thought that this might be a good time for this. I filled up my '02 S on Sunday and my calculations show that I am getting 24.24 mpg in town. My parents also have an '02 S and they are getting about 20 mpg in town. I guess I can not complain about my mpg's.

    Thank you wwbradley on your hog ring info.
  • tig2002tig2002 Posts: 81
    MPG is a ratio that can never be calculated properly. I get an average 24-25 mpg on my '02P in summer while driving to work and back on freeway during week days with almost no stop lights, and in town during week-end. But it also depends on traffic conditions, outside temperature, driving speed, properly inflated tires, how quick I start driving after I start the engine, etc. The MPG of my MM drops to 21-22 or even below when I switch cars with my wife - mostly park-n-drive driving in town (shopping, dropping and picking up kids at school, appointments, etc.). So the number strictly depends on drivers and driving conditions. But from my experience you can improve the gas/mileage by properly inflating tires (always check the pressure, especially during each season of the year), inspecting and replacing air filter when necessary, using synthetic motor oil, avoiding using regular unleaded gasoline, and, of course, trying not to compete with Maxima's from stop;)

    P.S. I don't understand those MPG numbers printed by manufacturers on stickers of the new cars. How do they calculate those numbers?
  • I just got back from an 800 mile road trip in my 01 P. I was on 4 lane and two lane highways averaging between 65 and 75 with a few towns and construction.

    It was about 95 to 100 during the day with AC running. I got right around 25.

    I really wish the 2.5 could do a little better. My RL does about the same.
  • ul1210ul1210 Posts: 2
    Has anyone changed their own brakes on their Millenia?
    My 2000 MME is approaching 67,000 miles and the brakes are going to need repalcing soon.
    I've changed brakes on other, older model Mazdas and it's super easy. If anyone can comment on the Millenia, I would greatly appreciate it.


  • erinsquarederinsquared Posts: 178
    I changed them; can't remember anything special required over standard brake service so you should be fine. Use ceramic pads for maximum performance (this is stock material on the Millenia S and is available at most auto stores).
  • kaputkaput Posts: 3
    Hello everybody!
    I owe 2000 Millenia S with 51K on it. Want to change its spark plugs. Any suggestions on the brand, and how to accomplish it easier? Thank you all
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    Why not wait the other 9,000 to 10,000 more miles and then change them? The spark plugs are good for 60,000 miles. Plus there is no easy way to change the plugs in the S.
  • mazdafreakmazdafreak Posts: 27
    Hey Kaput,
    Like kmc8419 mentioned,there is no "easy" way to change spark plugs
    on an "S" engine.I recently did it myself and let me tell you...
    You must be very patient and possess mechanical skills.
    I posted about this subject about a month ago and picked up a link
    which i'll try to's somewhere in my home pc.
    Get me you're email and i'll forward you the url.
  • mazdafreakmazdafreak Posts: 27
    Lucky Kaput!
    Found the URL for you...

    Good Luck man!

    P.s. Thanks to wwbradley:)
  • kaputkaput Posts: 3
    Mazdafreak thank you for the link! It’s quite explanatory. I hope I will be able to change the plugs without too much of effort.
    kmc8419, I know that Mazda manual says that the original spark plugs are good for 60K. However, recently my car has behaved strangely. First, it’s engine check light would come on and off for no apparent reason. Then, after being parked for about a week, I started the car and its engine began running as if its fuel lines/filter or injectors were clogged up. Its engine light began blinking. After worming the engine up, the light stopped blinking, just staid on, and the car would run normally. I stopped at Autozone to have free code readings. The guy said that cylinder #6 was misfiring, speed sensor was malfunctioning and something else. I didn’t bought into his readings too much because the speedometer and the cruise control worked just fine. However, he recommended checking the spark plugs. I figured it would be a good and the least expensive starting point.
    I hope that the problem isn’t a result of faulty emission system, which I heard is quite expensive to fix. I have an extended warranty on the car, but it doesn’t say if it covers emission components (except catalytic converter).
  • erinsquarederinsquared Posts: 178
    If you have an extended warranty, why not take the car to the dealer for a checkout? Millenia S models are very complicated and I would not trust the servicing to anyone except for technicians who specialize in Mazda repair. I have 87k miles on my plugs and the car still runs fantastic, so I doubt replacing the plugs on your car will make any difference. Just visualize it; after spending all that time and effort to change the plugs - your car still has the problem! If changing the plugs was a 15 min. job, I'd say go ahead, but I think you will be much better off paying the $80-100 diagnostic and knowing the exact cause. Besides, it may actually be something covered by your warranty.
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