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Mazda Millenia



  • uscxvuscxv Posts: 8
    As I stated previously my Millenia was doing the same thing. Today I had the codes read.

    PO750 Shift Solenoid A.
    PO755 Shift Solenoid B
    PO760 Shift Solenoid c
    P1743 Manufacturer contol Transmission.

    I have a appointment at the Dealership on Tues.

    I'll keep you posted.
  • wadiewadie Posts: 5
    Thanks alot...I'm still waiting on my part to come so I can take it to the mechanic and get it changed...after reading everybody else's posts I feel like Mazda needs to be paying for these repairs instead of us!!

    I'm taking it to Autozone and getting it checked out so I too can know exactly what the codes are. I had the list from the Mazda dealer but lost them. At least if I take it to Autozone I dont have to pay for the diagnostics test...that's $89 I can keep in my pocket toward a future repair....
  • kleesklees Posts: 1
    Has anyone had trouble with their heated seats on the Millenia? I am told that I have a split in my line. This is the 2cd time they have gone on me, and I only have 37K on the car.
  • I have 2001 Millenia P. To the rear and bottom portion of the rear wheel wells there are 3 vertical holes about 2 inches apart. This is just inside of well and holes are on painted part. What am I missing?? Almost looks like a mudguard should be bolted on there. Do you also have these holes?

  • I had the same issue with my '99 Millenia, took it to a shop and they opened up my Mazda, and behind the radio controls, theres a switch that seems to control the vents or something that brings in either hot/cold air... apparently the switch was broken looks like a little box, (210$? or so for a new part from a mazda part store, none in stock go figure) Anyway at first he just switched the vent to only give heat and no more cold air, then was bored and decided to take the switch apart. not sure what he did after that but now I have heat and cold air, and I only had to pay labor, I'll ask him if he remembers the name of the part and update when I can.

    Hope this helps.

    Mazda parts are expensive..
  • uscxvuscxv Posts: 8
    Okay finally 6 days and the dealership has finally come to the realization my PCM needs to be replaced.

    Fortunately, its under the extended warranty.

    Lets hope this works.
  • just knowing the actual code #'s is half the battle when it comes to diagnosis. For instance, some code #'s that refer to the O2 sensors do not indicate a faulty O2 sensor itself, but a related problem.
  • wadiewadie Posts: 5
    You are so right cam and that's just why I'm heading to Autozone to get the codes. That way when I do present the problem to the dealership they can't give me the runaround. I was thinking of changing the transmission period but then I was thinking about a friend of mine who had problems with her trans. and had it rebuilt. She had to have it replaced 4 different times...I honestly don't think I wanna go throught the headache :sick:
  • khan5khan5 Posts: 1
    sometimes this problem arises after you wash/service the car for underneath, due to water the speed sensor to the transmission contacts get wet.
  • ltm1ltm1 Posts: 1
    It was told by Mazda it would cost $2300 to install a knock sensor and a "warm-up" catalyst converter. Is this something the ONLY MAZDA has to install? Does it involve taking the engine out? Is it a difficult process?
  • kchpkchp Posts: 1
    I bought my 2001 off-lease in October of 2001 for $20K, a great deal for a luxurious looking and feeling car that has been mistaken many times for a Lexus. I love its looks and all the bells and whistles. The fuel door sticking, no big deal. The "hold" light coming on intermittently, I could deal with. The replaced o2 sensors and EGR valve, okay. The fact that the "check engine" light is always on, and my mechanic says the catalytic converter may be going, but not to worry about it, I am less than pleased with. But my newest problem is the steering! When the car is cold, it is extremely difficult to turn the steering wheel, particularly in a tight turn like into or out of a parking space or driveway. After you've driven it for 30-45 minutes, the steering's okay... but it doesn't inspire confidence. So far we've had the power steering fluid and the power steering pump replaced, and the rack and pinion taken out and cleaned and put back together. According to the mechanic, it is impossible to find the right part with which to replace the rack. He's received two rebuilt racks through the dealership, one from Pompano Beach FL and the other from Saginaw MI, and neither fit. The lengths changed from year to year, and apparently the bores changed within the year. He's put the car back together, and I'm driving it, but I don't really feel safe. I guess it's time to trade in for something that you can at least get parts for when it breaks!
  • daves6daves6 Posts: 3
    I'm new to the site, so I apologize if I missed the answer to the following questions. This has been a great car, but is getting expensive to own even with O2 sensor and heated seat replaced under warranty. The CEL is on, the code says knock sensor ($500 at non-Mazda shop). Due for a tune-up but I am getting 28.6 mpg on the highway. Car is a bit sluggish. Big problem now is a harsh 1-2 shift even at modest acceleration. Starting out in "hold" skips the harsh 1-2 shift. Questions: Can average home mechanic (I've restored old cars but haven't worked on anything this new) do knock sensor and tune-up? Any "How-to's" out there on this subject? I know the intake has to come off for both jobs.
    Is there a remote chance that the harsh shift is either related to the knock sensor (knock sensor light and harsh shifting started at approximately the same time) or anything that would not require internal transmission work?
    Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
  • i just glanced over your message since I am having problems with my knock sensor but I wanted to let you know that the same problem you are dealing with I just had and got fixed. I too have a 01 Mazda Millenia and have a client who happens to be an excellent mechanic in NJ, had the same exact steering problems and took it to him. The problem was my steering belt was bad and on the verge of breaking which could of caused way more damage had this happened. It has nothing to do with the rack, or at least not on my car. Have him check the belt, if it is loose which my was and if it has cracking or tearing which mine did it needs to be replaced. The part is only $20-30 and then labor is a few minutes. I'm fortunate to have a reliable mechanic who is honest, have this guy check this and show you this or go get a second opinion. Good Luck!
  • Are you using premium gasoline like the owners manual says? It is possible to get a bad knock sensor indication if the computer is always retarding the timing to compensate for pre-ignition from regular gas. It will take some time to clear the error if this is the problem because once it is latched in the computer it takes a minimum of a dozen restarts to clear. A quick way to clear the error codes is to disconnect the battery with the engine off for one minute.

    It's not likely the harsh shift is from the knock sensor. I would have a reliable mechanic drop the transmission pan clean the pan and replace the transmission filter then fill with new fluid. If this helps I would repeat in a couple of months because this procedure only replaces 4 or 5 quarts of fluid (about 1/3 inside the trans). If you are at all adventurous this can be done yourself in the driveway but it is dirty and messy.

    I strongly suggest NOTgetting a transmission power flush. I have heard more than a few people report the power flush does more damage than when the car went in because it only stirs up metal filings and crap in the transmission.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Quote: "Are you using premium gasoline like the owners manual says?"

    First off, there is a big difference between the 2.3L S engine and the 2.5L P engine. Please specify, because the manual doesn't require "premium" in the MMP, it suggests it and leaves it up to the owner.

    I have never bought "Premium" in the 4 1/2 years I have had this car, and have never had a problem of any kind from it.

    My milage is quite good at 20 city and about 25 to 27 highway. The car still performs flawlessly. As the 2.5 KLZE is a very normal standard type of engine I doubt running 87 octane in it will ever result in a problem unless the "brain" fails and does not adjust for the difference. With the 2.3 as with ALL supercharged engine, "Premium" is required.

    Of course this is a big argument all over the internet about all cars, but I am on the run regular in the MMP unless it pings side.
  • daves6daves6 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the replies. I should have mentioned that it is the standard 2.5L. As of tonight, the engine light is now blinking at me instead of just being illuminated. As for fuel, we have used regular 87 octane since new. You are absolutely correct, the higher octane is recommended in the manual. However, going back to shortly after we purchased it new, we have heard the following from Mazda dealers:
    "You should use high octane" (Toledo dealer)
    "You don't have to use high octane, but performance may be down a bit" (Michigan dealer)
    "My shop received a Mazda technical bulletin that indicates there can be problems with using too high octane fuel in the standard Millenia" (Central Ohio Dealer)

    We have used 87 Octane since the purchase and my last two tanks of all highway driving have been 28.6 and 28.7 mpg, respectively. As I recall, the sticker estimated 27 "highway". Based on fuel consumption alone, the car is running great. However, the nasty 1-2 shift, the knock sensor code and the sluggish acceleration are all realities. Questions:
    1. Any point in running high octane through it now?
    2. Work requires I put 700 miles on it over the next 2 days before I have a chance to get it into the shop. With the light now blinking angrily, is bigger damage (more than the cost of the sensor) possible or is breakdown likely? Thanks again for the help.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    The one and only repair my '01 MMP has had was replacement of the knock sensor at 10000 miles. It was causing no problem, and was the sensor itself, as the problem has not recurred and there never was an audible "knock" or ping.

    The three items you listed are basically all correct and I have read of them also.

    The harsh 1-2 shift when not coming to a complete stop before accelerating is common, and I seldom see it anymore. I believe you just learn how to drive to avoid it. It too has never caused a problem. I don't know about slugish acceleration, except if you put the car in hold in 2nd or 3rd, then accelerate from a dead stop. If you use hold, that may be the answer because you are starting out in a high gear. It does work fine though to manually shift if you move the lever from 1 to 2 to 3 with hold engaged. The engine revs so quickly though that you can't leave it in each gear very long.

    Again, I believe you are simply wasting your money using anything but 87 in the P. And there was a bulletin concerning the use of "Premium" in this engine. You might be able to google that to learn more.AllData used to allow free searches, but since AutoZone took them over they want a $25 fee. Strange they will run CEL checks for free then charge for information online. Anyway, the MY Mazda site shows there has never been a recall on the MM. But when I could access AllData I did see the Premium fuel problem in a TSB.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Auto Clinic
    Illustrations by Don Mannes and Adolph E. Brotman
    Published on: May 14, 2002

    There's a 6-pack of imported beer riding on this bet. True or false: Premium gas is better for modern fuel-injected engines because there's more of the stuff in it that is supposed to clean the fuel-injection system than there is in regular gas.

    Been a long winter up there in the Northwest Territories, eh Harry?

    You may need a third-party judge here. Today, nearly all engines are fuel injected. At least those made here in the States. Consequently, all major grades of branded gasoline contain adequate amounts of cleaning additives. Early injected engines had major problems with injector clogging and intake valve carbon deposits. This was nearly 20 years ago, mind you. Several higher-priced European brands were really bad--the intake manifolds had to be removed so that the valve deposits could be cleared away by blasting them with granulated walnut shells. These cars required premium fuel for the octane, and petroleum refiners added cleaners to help eliminate deposit buildup.

    As fuel injection became more common, industry standards and practices called for adding these cleaners to all grades of gas, obviating the need to use the higher-priced spread or putting in your own additives.

    The bottom line is this: Use the most economical grade of gasoline available that doesn't knock or ping. Some vehicles may need periodic doses of fuel-injection cleaners, but most won't.

    And I prefer Pilsner Urquell.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Washington Post
    Thursday, May 19, 2005, 11 a.m. ET
    Goss's Garage

    Pat Goss
    Automotive repair expert
    Thursday, May 19, 2005; 11:00 AM

    Pat Goss has worked on cars for more than 40 years. He owns a car repair company that bears his name, has authored numerous books on auto maintenance, and makes weekly appearances on Motorweek, a PBS television program.

    He visits right here once a month to answer questions about fixing your car.Silver Spring, Md.: How do I know if I really need to buy high-octane gas? My owner's manual recommends 91-octane, but most gas stations only offer 89 or 93. I tend to get 93, but could I get by with the 89? I drive a 2001 VW Jetta VR6.

    Pat Goss: It depends on the language in your owners manual. If it says 87 is acceptable but 91 is recommended for best performance, you can use 87 octane. If it says, premium fuel required minimum 91 octane, you can only use 93.
  • erderd Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Millenia with 94,400 miles. The car runs great, but I have 2 minor yet nice features that are not working properly. The first is my sunroof. The sunroof will open but it does not close. I have to spend 15 minutes messing around with the controls for it to close.

    The second problem is my heated seats do not work. The switch light comes on, but I do not get any heat from them.

    Any ideas would be great. Please include price if available to fix these features.
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