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Mazda Millenia



  • I have all those problems in one extra one. I have an 2000 Mazda also. I have started to hear knocking sounds under the hood every now and then. It comes and goes. I took it to the shop because someone told me it could be my lifters. The person at the shop told me that my supercharger was going out it that would be about 3000.00 to 4000.00 to get fixed. Please help me if you know anything about this new problem. I have put so much money into the car and I'm wondering if I should spend anymore or just get rid of it.
  • I am in the process of buying a 2000 MM-s millenium ed. The audio system plays but the 6 disc cd player won't work. How much would it cost me to replace the cd player (6 disc not necesary) with something decent or comparable? The seller is only willing to give me a $100 discount because of it. Thank you for any feedback. I have never owned a Mazda. I've owned Nissans, Hondas and am now driving an infiniti. I hope my experience will be as satisfying.
  • Don't buy the car.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You could check with some place like Crutchfield.
  • I've had a 95 non-supercharged Millenia for 5 years now. With gas prices the way they are, I've switched to standard 87 octane from my usual mid grade or premium. No problems yet. From what I've read, premium really is only neccessary for turbocharged or supercharged engines. Any comments?
  • How do you know when you supercharger is going out? What are some signs?
  • I have a 97 Millenia, 191,860 miles. Check Engine light on for several years. Summer of 2005, had local shop do tune-up: cap,rotor,PCV valve,wires,plugs,air & fuel filter, timing belt,water pump. One month later engine quit at cruise after about 15 minutes. Coasted, let sit 10-15 minutes. Cranked, but would not start. Eventually started and ran OK. Drove 40 minutes. Garage read codes: EGR, CAM Position Sensor, O2 Sensor. Reset codes, only EGR reappeared. Engine ran OK. Decided not to fix. Then during summer Coolant overflowed on shutdown. Replaced thermostat, occasionally overflowed during hot months. Summer of 06, Hesitation on acceleration. Codes showed Air Leak. Replaced Rubber bellows tube from air mass sensor to throttle. EGR code still present. Two weeks later, engine quit at cruise as did summer before. Left sit, would crank, but not start. Had towed. Tried to start 1 week later, engine started OK. Drove to garage with Check Engine light blinking. Codes similar to before: P0300 Random Misfire, P0325 Knock Sensore, P1345 No SGC Signal, P1402 EGR. TCS OFF light occasionally ON. Since then, have had quit and not restart for several minutes.
    Did anyone ever find out if TCS would cause engine to quit and not restart for period of time??
  • I wish I could do that. I have already contacted the used car dealer where I bought the car and they would not take it back. Since then I have also had the cats replaced which lucky for me were replaced under warranty of 80,000 miles. BUT almost every time I start the car white smoke comes out of my exhaust! It seems like I'm constantly putting more oil in the car. Along with that the Check Engine light keeps comming on. For now it seems that if I disconnect the battery the light goes off for a few days. In the process of sellling this monster. I will never buy another Mazda and I warn anyone looking to buy a Millenia, DON'T especially one that has a supercharger. IT'S NOT WORTH YOUR TIME AND MONEY!!!
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,409
    FWIW: White smoke is usually OK, that's water. A natural byproduct of combustion, and often visible at startup. Burning oil means blue smoke. Best and cheapest fix is thicker oil (20W50) but use synthetic (Mobil 1) so that you still get good flow when the car is cold.

    Perhaps more to the point: If you are going to buy a seven-year-old luxury car, especially an obscure one, you have to have a good mechanic. And you HAVE to have the car checked out before you plunk down any money for it.

    I didn't, and I got (mostly) lucky.
    Paid $1,800 for the car, and could easily double that with suspension work & two new axles. Did the most necessary things for $800 and been driving it for 5 months now...

    A car like this, you either get it and keep it in top-notch condition -- or you get it cheap and milk it for as long as you can. And personally, I'd only buy older cars for cash. No payments when you have big repairs hanging over your head... the darned thing has 4 (four) ball joints at every corner, fer cryin' out loud!

    Most of all, you'd better know about cars or have a good relationship with a competent mechanic.

    1996 Millenia L, 152k
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    I take issue with the "Don't Buy A Millenia" statement of the poster before you. Sure, maybe the "S" has problems, but not the the non-Superchgarged version. In fact the 2.5l engine is critically acclaimed as one of the best V6's ever made.

    My '95 Millenia just turned 170K. Total repairs to date are less than $4k and included routine stuff like timing belt, cooling pump, distributor, battery, etc. Tranny's fine, engine's fine, shocks are fine....I expected it to be closer to death by this point.

    It is by far the most reliable vcar I've ever had.

    The one complaint is that goddamned Check Engine Light. It has been on for 4 years. I have my mechanic tweek it so that I can pass my smog check. He runs the diagnostic, it resets itself and then 30 miles later, it comes on again. I simply ignore it.

    Any comments out there about the regular millenia being a great car?
  • I have a 99 Millenia L with about 125,000 trouble free miles on it. It still looks and runs great. By far, it is one of the best cars I've ever owned.
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    I just talked to another Millenia owner this week, who shares our praise of Millenia's. his too was a non-"S". The fact that Consumer Reports recommends it as a top pick for used car year after year, indicates that it is such!

  • Who here agrees? I love my car. '95 Millenia L with 171K. You can pick these up used for a song and they drive as well as any similar yeared Lexus ES, Acura TL, Toyota Avalon and better than any GM or Ford Sedan! They actually handle better than most of those spongy Sedans. When my Milly dies, she'll be replaced by another high quality, low mileaged 2001 or 2002 Millenium.

  • Hey there, it looks like our cars are (were) having the same problem. Do you still have the Millenia and did you ever get the stalling and not starting problem fixed? I seen it has been almost a year since your post.

    I might have a lead for you if you are still stumpped.

  • We may have the same problem. Mine is 95 but with the 2.5L engine experiencing a similar problem. Mine however ends up dying after 15-30 seconds of really low and variying RPM (if it doesn't just suddenly die at once.) Did you get this problem solved? Let's discuss, I'm still stumpped.

  • I have a 95 that is doing what yours is doing now. Rarely does it not die 10-20 minutes into a trip and will not restart for 5-15 minutes. My dealer tested the car for about a week and said it needed a new Throttle Body and tune-up along with the EGR cleaned. I don't recall the codes on the computer but yours look familure.

    I was told that there is no way the TCS (which was explained to essentially be the ABS control) could be causing the stalling, but it seems to me that the computer controling TCS is also controling the fuel or ignition or whatever is causing the thing to die.

    Have you had any success getting to the bottom of this?

  • jahmikes, I see your post was a long time ago, did you ever get the problem solved? I am having the same thing happen to my 95.

  • claudev, did you get your mllenia fixed? mine stalls as well.

  • No, I have been running it for the last two weeks without any problems. Im still looking at replacing the distributor. Know of any used parts dealers on line for Millenia's
  • Not on-line, however, I first tried that route trying 2 different distributors from newer 626 from a local junk yard (Indy area) and no luck, still stalled out. You might try that route.
    I recently sent it into the local Mazda dealer who looked it over for about a week. They determined that it was the throttle body that went bad, caused the plugs to foul, and I should get new plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, along with the throttle body and the EGR needs cleaned.
    Not wanting to "blindly" put $2k into it, I got on this site and did some investigating. I found 3 or 4 others who described the same situation and it turned out to be a vaccuum leak. I called the dealer back to see if they looked into this and unfortunately he said they tested every hose because that is a common issue with these cars. :confuse: So now I a stumped again. I am thinking it is some goofy computer issue; and others on here have replaced all kinds of stuff and not stopped the stalling.
    You have any further info/ideas?
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