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Mazda Millenia

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  • i have a 99 Mellina and I bought the base model for a reason....Their are three motors for this car the miller cycle, super charger and base. I bought base and MADE SURE the engine was built in Japan and not US. The miller cycle has a issue with the oil compression system which blows out. it cost $5000 just to fix that...so i stayed away. The supercharger is nice but it goes out around 35 to 55K miles. So think about it for the cost of a charger you can buy a base engine and put it in if the charger goes up for about $1000. So have fun and save a thousand and if the charger goes up again replace the engine with a base engine but make sure the serial number starts with a J. Keep in mind that the base engine is not as powerful but it wont break on you
  • Dude...$1500 to replace valve cover gasket's. Who are you taking your car too...rip off amaerica? I replace mine and I bought the gaskets from the dealer for $40.00 it took me two hour to replace them. If i took it to a shop they wanted to charge me $200.00. If you pay $1500 for that you are seriously getting ripped. You can keep the car if nothing is wrong with the charger. But please dont pay that much for such a small job...you may want to really reconsider who is working on your car. I have a 99 with 172,000 it's purring like a kitten. change your oil to fully synthetic and never go back to regular oil. and get your valve covers changed..it can cause other issues and if you have to add 2 quarts every twoo or three fillups..you are having bigger issues than gaskets
  • find a shop that specializes in repairing bent rims. it should cost no more than $150
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    What are you talking about?

    There were only two engines in the Millenia: a 2.3L Miller Cycle engine with a Lysolm compressor and a 2.5L normally aspirated engine. Both engines in the Millenia were only produced in Japan.

    You cannot simply swap engines if you have one and would like the other.
  • I have the same problem in the morning too, mine is a 99' S
    with 109K and loving it. I haven't notice any degrade in engine performace - the spped of this car just amazing!
    how much does it cost to fix the supercharge without timing belt?
  • take it to your local Firestone and tell them you want a safety check on the car. they charge $21 yes $21 out the door. you going to love this car especially a S model.
    they are very hard to come by these day.
  • Thanks for the recommendation..went to the firestone, sure enough 19.99 for the inspection. All's good with the car, he just recommended new wipers and a fuel system cleaner...
  • I once had this problem and replaced all the T's under the supercharger and the TCS PROBLEM WENT AWAY.
    Please if you had another fix to this let me know for the future.
    Koolhammer
  • The shop said something about how you had to take the
    Supercharger off and it would be like a bunch of hours
    labor to fix the valve cover gaskets, I dunno. I have
    thought now that maybe if you do have to take the supercharger off to fix them, why not replace the
    supercharger too? I might be able to get a good deal
    on a used one. Another question I have though, when
    you people say your supercharger has "gone out" do
    you mean it starts blowing oil into the engine (my
    problem I think) or it just stops running totally?
    Does the car run if it stops running?

    Still looking for Atlanta Mazda shop also....

    Tom
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I believe you do have to move quite a few items to get the valve covers off. I think the SC stays in place but the plenum is removed. Book rate is around 2.5 hours.
  • ksan71ksan71 Posts: 5
    :sick: I have a peculiar problem that has me dumbfounded. About 8 mos ago, my check engine light came on and the "TCS OFF" light with no apparent antecedent. The engine would idle at about a 100-150 less RPM than normal. I'd be in stop and go traffic and the car would just shut off. and it wouldn't start for about 2-3 minutes. Then it would start up and would drive like a charm. Took it to my mechanic who reset the chk eng. light and then the light shut off (he didn't give me the one code that came up). 20 minutes later the light came back on. He suggested that I lower the octane to 89 since I was always filling up with 93. After a while (a week) that kind of fixed the issue and then the light came back on. And I'd be driving on the highway and the car would just shut down. Tried starting the car in Nuetral and it wouldn't startl. Finally I would stop on the shoulder put the car in park and it would start right up. The car would again run like a charm however the check engine light would stay on and the "TCS OFF" light off. Then I noticed something peculiar. I noticed that when I was less than a 1/2 tank full the check engine light would shut off. But as soon as I filled up with 89 the check engine light would come on and I would have these stall bouts on the highway and not in stop and go traffic. I also noticed when I would use a Fuel Cleaner it would stop for the length of tank of gas. Don't know what to do? Have taken it to my mechanic twice and he can't figure it out.. Anyone?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Well what code is tripping the CEL? I'd start with that. Of course, the millenia has complicated fuel tank system and it sounds like there could be a problem with the evaporative emission system on it.
  • My 95 Millenia has 211,000+ miles on it. I have had some major repairs last year, but cannot bring myself to get rid if it! This morning, the hold light starting flashing. What does that mean? Am I in for another $$$ major repair??
  • I Have the same concern on my car funny things is that I am a Ford Technician "A" .. I Deal with this stuff all day long it just easier for me because of tools that are availiable to me at the dealer!! I have really no acess for Mazda stuff. When I read your write up i was like Wow!! the same thing I am going thru everyday! i Actually drive near the shoulder in case vehicle stalls i can easily drift off the road and wait a minute a start up vehicle and go on my merry way!! While I have Acess to scanner and Retrieve codes P1195 P1521 P1522>> 1195 it a Baro/Map code which most likely won't cause a stall concern.. P1521/1522 is a idle speed control inputs control. I am kind of leaning toward a "crank sensor" At first I was leaning toward a Distributor but for over $300.00 It will be a bad guess! If you have any info on a fix Please :( pass it down!! Any Ford problems I am the Man Certified Ford Tech!!
  • what code do you have???
  • Have you found a fix?? I have same concern Please Help!!
  • ksan71ksan71 Posts: 5
    What's interesting is that I decided to do a little more research. I have found out through other Mazda owners that are experiencing the same thing, the first thing to do is to switch to strictly 89 octane.. That should do away with the TCS OFF light. Secondly, I recently found out through another forum someone that pinpointed the situation having the same symptoms as I am having.. It suggests, that the first thing you should do is check for a leak at the Air bypass valve. Some people are reporting that this is the CEL light cure for this issue.. I haven't tried it myself yet as it is freezing outside.. But If anyone can do it and it works for them let me know.. So once again, check the vacuum hoses by the air bypass valve for leaks. The hoses in question are the short hoses with about 3/4 ' diameter.
  • I changed my cap and rotor and the next thing you know I had the charge light come on, then the tcs on light and the tcs off light and some other lights the hold light was flashing off and on, even the dashspeed and rpm stopped working wow I had to tow the car home after it would hold a jump for more than five minutes. So what I did and it corrected the whole problem was put the old cap and rotor back on that is the most bizzar car problem Ive ever seen so it possible that all dealer parts may correct some of the overall wierd millenia problems so in turn dont just start throwing money at this car undo what you did before you were having what ever issue you are having because what I was about to do is put a altanator in and then a new battery then I would of came to the conclusion that my distributor was the fix to it all that would be 800 dollars later trust me I have sunk A ton of money into this car without the desired results
  • Have you had a cap and rotor recently I had a whole electrical malfunction as explained in my post "millenia owners must read" the car was fine and I put a new cap and rotor on and the car electronics went crazy not even the radio would make a sound but the thing was lit up my speedo and rpm would work the car just ran out of juice so odly enough a distributor cap and rotor from the dealer and not schucks could be the cure
  • read my post " millenia owners must read " May be big help to you
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