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Mazda Millenia



  • my 95 mazda millenia will not pick up speed i just put a power steering idler pulley on and i have a new transmission. can somebody please tell me what can be wrong
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,415
    Hopefully it is not the S model. The S has the only Miller cycle engine that was sold here. While it tended to work flawlessly, no more were introduced and it is a difficult engine to service. Just changing plugs is a major deal. If you really still love the car for some reason, find a mechanic who has some experience with the Millenia S and get an assessment. At best, with a 95 Millenia it is worth a few hundred dollars at sale or trade in. Don't sink a lot of money into a car which at this stage of its life will need a lot of repairs and replacements, unless it is one you want to keep for a collection or occasional use. If it is your main ride, for all it may cost you, get something simpler or more reliable. Good luck to you.
  • its not th s model and i just spoke with a mechanic and they said it might be my fuel injectors
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,415
    Hey, run some injector cleaner through it before you spend more $$ on the mechanic. Worth a try.
  • I have 1999 Millenia and the cruise control is not working. To raise or lower the steering column is done by an electric motor. Short of replacing the motor what is may be causing this issue. I have search for a possible blown fuse to repair both of the issue. Any help is greatly appreciated
  • Hi,
    I just purchased a pre-owned 2002 Mazda Millenia in Oct 2009. I would like to know what are the timeframes I need to do a "Full Service Vs Oil Change" etc.

    Since I am not from US, I would like to know what all should I do, to keep my car in good shape. From the place I come from, I use to give it for full service after every 6 months. I am not sure if it is the same here.

    Looking for help. :)
  • Just got a diagnosis re: "check engine" light for my 1999 Mazda Millenia S. Codes that showed up:
    P0170 (Fuel Trim Malfunction - Bank 1);
    P0173 (Fuel Trim Malfunction - Bank 2);
    P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected);
    P0431 (Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold - Bank 2);
    P1173 (P11XX - Manufacturer Controlled Fuel and Air Metering)

    Any idea as to what I am looking at with regard to the problem and potential cost of repair? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • On most cars if your check engine light is blinking instead of solid light then it usually indicates cylinder misfire (p0303). on cars with TCS if there is cylinder misfire then PCM (computer) will disable traction conrol system and will display TCS OFF. to fix a cylinder misfire you will have to change spark plug wire(s) (or some newer cars don't have spark plug wires in this case you need to replace the boot that connects spark plug to ignition module). If wires are good then spark plugs could be defective. If the problem is not fixed right away and ignored for a long time then misfire can cause permanent damage to your catalytic converter. Every time cylinder misfires your fuel and air does not burn like its suppose to in a normal combustion and then catalytic converter has to work a lot harder to rearange exhaust gases into a less toxic form, which causes catalyst to overheat and eventually (fail) loose its efficiency - P0431. the fix is to change front catalytic converter (whichever is closest to the engine)
    Cylinder misfire effects engine performance, and catalytic efficiency does not effect performance or gas mileage but you won't pass emmisions inspection.
    P1173, P0173, P0170 are all tied together. I will try not to confuse you. Most four cylinders have only Bank 1, and V6 has two cylinder heads and two exhaust manifolds - bank 1 and 2 becasue cylinders 1,3,5 have one exhaust manifold and cylinders 2,4,6 have another exhaust manifold. Each manifold has its own O2 sensor plus there is usually third O2 sensor after catalytic converter. PCM (computer) uses many sensors such as MAF, IAT, MAP, TPS and Coolant Temp sensor to control fuel to air mixture. If air temp or pressure changes then Air temp sensor or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor gives PCM different signals and PCM increases or decreases duty cycle of fuel injectors to add just enough fuel into each cylinder, and then PCM uses O2 sensors to verify air to fuel mixture in the exhaust. The problem is that PCM can make only minor adjustments to fuel mixtures, and if your fuel pupm or regulator drop fuel pressure then PCM cannot compensate enough and O2 keeps telling PCM that there is not enough fuel or too much fuel for a longer period of time then PCM can throw a codes like: Fues system lean, or Fuel system rich or P1173 Manufacturer Controlled Fuel and Air Metering. Usually in V6 engines if it says only bank 1 or bank 2 Fuel Trim Malfunction then its probably bad O2 sensor or leak in intake or exhaust manifold due to cracks or bad gaskets. But if Both Banks 1 and 2 have improper fuel to air mixtures then it can get tricky. Here are the possible causes: Dirty or faulty IAT, MAF, MAP. Faulty PCV valve, Coolant Temp sensor, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Pump. Colgged Air filter or Fuel filter. Or leak in Air intake syster somwhere between MAF and intake manifold or broken vacuum hoses. Or very unlikly broken or corroded engine wiring harness.
  • Oh and forgot to mention tha any Fuel trim check engine codes are very critical, and computer stops to monitor fuel mixtures and goes into limp mode which reduces engine performance and gives you stinking smelly exhaust and kills your gas mileage. If not taken care of soon, can cause permanent engine problems like blown head gaskets, cracked cylinder heads, and so on.
  • Yes the center trim pops out the you can remove the screws to livt the shifter cover off
  • I have a a '98 Mazda Millenia S. The starter was replaced yesterday. When I picked up the car the mechanic told me I might need a new flywheel. The car did start a few time today. Now it will not start. Is it true that the only way to get to flywheel is to drop the transmission. I am being quoted $1,000 for the repair job.
  • tarasbtarasb Posts: 4
    edited February 2010
    First of all: When you try to start the car, can you hear the engine turn over? If your engine turns over but it won't start then your flywheel is good. If the engine does not turn over then lister for the noise your starter is making, if you just hear ONE CLICK OR CLUNK and nothing else then its your starter. But if it sounds like electric motor is spinning (whining sound) then read this post to the end.
    Yes you have to take the transmission out to get to flywheel, but I never herd of a case where flywheel teeth were damaged by the starter. You see, flywheel is made of regular steel and it looks like a rarge flat and really havy disk on manual transmissions, and on automatics, which yours is, its called a flex plate, its thin and light but it has a heavy and bulky torqe converter bolted to it. Anyways in both cases there is a high carbor ring gear attached on the outside of the disk, it is very hard metal. Usually the gear on the started is much softer and it wears out much faster. Now if your flywheel ring gear has chipped or broken teeth on it in one spot, then it will have good teth on the other side. so picture this: starter gear is about one to two inches in deameter and has about 10 teeth or so, and ring gear is about 15 to 18 inches in diameter and has over 100 teeth. Its impossible to damage all teeth on the flywheel ring gear. So try this: if the starter does not turn the engine over then follow theese steps:
    1) apply e-brake put a brick or something on both sides of the tire so the car won't roll.
    2) Open the hood and as you are facing the engine on your left side find the belt and underdrive pulley: its the largest pulley on the engine, it would be on the bottow, and right above oil pan in the center of the engine. It will have a big bolt righ in the senter, most likely 21mm socket.
    3) turn ignition on, stap on brakes and shift into neutral gear without trying to start it. Make sure you turn ignition off and leave it in neutral every time you repeat step 4.
    4) take a big wrench and turn the engine over by hand about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn, then take the wrench and socket out and try to start the car.
    5) if the starter doesn't turn engine over then keep repeating step 4 untill you would be able to start the car. If you tried step 4 more then four to six times and starter did not engage and did not turn the engine over on its own then its not your flywheel, and its probably your starter. In this case I would go to a different mechanic.
    Ok if the starter does enagage and the engine turns over after you tried step 4 then its still 50/50 chance that your car did not get new starter or your flywheel is bad. I would take it to a different mechanic and do not tell them that you just got new starter and see what they say.
    Please let me know if I this was helpful to you?
  • Thanks for sharing your knowledge and replying to my post. The noise is, actually, a swishing sound. Most likely, it was not the starter that created the damage. I assumed it was the starter and instructed the shop to replace the starter. The car is now at the shop. They called me and said that there were at least five teeth on the flywheel that were broken (that they could visibly see). Would that explain why the engine occaisonally the starter keeps landing right on the bad area of the fly wheel. This has been an on going problem for about six months. When it first started it was a whining sound. Now it has become a much quite like a swish. I am sort of at the mercy of the shop mechanic now.
  • Yeah it sounds about right. If broken teeth on flywheel will end up right where the starter engages then it will just make loud electric motor noise, and will not turn the engine over. Its just hard to believe that your flywheel teeth broke. I gues it can happen. If you trust your mechanic then go ahead and get that flywheel changed. Yeah its a lot of work to get the flywheel out. If they say that they can see broken teeth, can they show it to you so you could see it for yourself?
    Just a litle advice: iIf you will need any mazda parts, don't buy them from mazda dealer, but instead go to or then click on parts catalog and order it directly from the same place your mazda dealer is geting same parts from, but ist gonna be cheaper this way. And if you can't find something then there is a phone number on their site and you can call them, ask them for part number for what you are looking for and then go back to parts catalog and search for that part number.
  • Thanks for the info. Got my car in the shop - especially after reading your last post. Expensive quote by the Mazda folks - hopes it takes care of everything. Thanks for taking the time to respond.
  • Just bought a Millenia 96' with trans problem. The shifter is not in the correct position. Park is reverse but the car will not go in reverse, R in Nutreal and so on. Will not move to the 1 position. The car is the S type and I want to know two things.
    1: Is this just an adjustment problem and what needs to be adjusted.
    2: If I have to replace the trans is there a big difference between the S and L model trans. How much difference does the VIN make in the trans.
    Basically what trans options I have to install in the car. Thanks in advance for any help given.
  • I've owned my Millenia S for approximately 7 years. It seems since 2005 I have problem after problem with my Mazda. It only has 125k miles on it and I am ready to blow it up !! :mad: I've had the radiator replaced, spark plug wires, tension pulley replaced, sensor after sensor; I've had issues with the TCS light, check engine light, fuses on the dash going out, the sunroof is off track; the BOSE radio went out, and now, it smokes in the morning when I start it up. I drive about a mile, and it will be smoking from under the hood. It doesn't do this in the afternoon. Also, if I drive too long, the TCS light will come on and the car will start jerking. I want to pass this vehicle on to my daughter to drive back and forth to school, which is about 2 miles but I don't trust the car. HELP !!!
  • meleniamelenia Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    I got 1999 Mellinia. I got shifting cable broken while I put new starter in. Cable joint linkage broke off. I spent 2 hours to pull a whole cable assembly out from Junkyard. Is any body have a better way to put this cable in? Or ? please help :confuse:
  • well these cars are well put together I think. I have a 2000 mazda 626 which is way sportier than the millenia anyway but it ran hot for the longest time and it would go well up in the Hot zone and any other car would have blown head gaskets etc so I can only say good things when it comes to these cars even though we spend money and complain they are still great cars and were built to last but with ANY car you have to do things here and there to keep them in order.. But I love mine and would have it fixed if anything because we dont want those payments huh lol
  • take it to an autozone or advanced auto they do diag for free if check engine is on
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