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Mazda Millenia

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  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    As promised, here's my work order (4th trip for this problem):


    pressure ck cooling system to 14lbs, no visible leaks detected. called mazda hotline they suggested pulling timing belt covers to inspect for leaks. Water pump showed traces of coolant at weep hole. While checking for coolant leak noticed rt cam seal also leaking. Replace water pump & rt cam seal. Road test to confirm repair

    Parts:
    B0205BRX Oil seal (front housing or camshaft front) r&r 90 WM94
    1 BP01-10-602A oil seal
    E0101XRX water pump assembly and/or gasket, r&r 90 WM94
    1 8AK3-15-010B pumpset, water
    4 5555-CL-001 Warr Coolant
    FC:77
    part: 8AK3-15-010B


    All this was covered under warranty, so I have absolutely no idea how much it would be...

    Good luck,
    Tomek
  • Hello,

    I recently sold 92 929 with 130k miles (had it for 7 yrs), and now looking at used Millenia S. (I think it's such a wonderful car in many aspects, including its looks and feature contents).

    I am looking at model year 97 or older, to be used as second car.

    There is a gentlemen who has 95' at 102k miles, offering ~7000. Carfax yields absolutely no accidents or issues. However since they say 95' was first year for Millenias, I am a bit uneasy about making up my mind. On my 929, for example, there were a couple of issues with the car(no glovebox, wahahaha! and driving belt pulleys rattling). Is there anything to be aware of on 95 Millenias?
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    " Is there anything to be aware of on 95 Millenias?"

    The only repeat problem that shows up on Carpoint or other reliability ratings for the '95 MM is spark plug wires. They run around $100 plus labor. But I have read on this forum of oil leaks in the supercharger on all S models with high miles. I imagine that could be a substantially more expensive problem if the car you are looking at needs that work. You would probably be smart to have it checked before buying that car.

    It is also overdue for an expensive timing belt and water pump change if that has not been done.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    image

    Join us tonight, 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET for another
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  • Thank you fwatson I will look for the service record on the car for timing belt and water pump, in addition to oil leak!
  • carguy58carguy58 Posts: 2,303
    It seems like people are getting 14 mpg to the gallon on this car. A fuel pick-up problem or something? This seems to be too common.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    Only those with problems complain... I'm getting 21 city 28 hwy on 2001 Mill S.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    "It seems like people are getting 14 mpg to the gallon on this car. A fuel pick-up problem or something?"

    ----------------------

    That car very obviously has a problem. Any mechanic with good diagnostic equipment can determine what it is, but there is no way for it to be diagnosed on a forum. It requires knowing the code that is read out of the OBD.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    The labor for replacing the valve cover gaskets on a 2.5 millenia is more than an hour. We get at least 2, and thats about the same as the warranty time.
  • dmoyerdmoyer Posts: 27
    Per AutoZone and http://www.troublecodes.net/mazda/ ("Mazda Code Retrieval - Accessing Trouble Codes 96 & later are OBD2 systems"), the 1995 MM 2.5 V6 has OBD (located in front of the firewall), but requires a special tool to read.
    So, since all systems appear to be operational, I re checked all things visual in the engine compartment and then followed the above web site's recommendations for clearing the fault. "Mazda Fuel Injected Models With OBD - Disconnect battery ground cable for a minimum of 10 seconds, then depress brake pedal five times to clear trouble code's stored in the memory". Drove it for 30 minutes with all systems off, no check light. I'll just start using things and see if the check engine light returns.
    This 95 has been good to me so it is worth the effort to keep it on the road, I only drive it about 5K a year.
  • steevo2steevo2 Posts: 33
    Is it more complicated (expensive) to replace the valve cover gaskets on the 2.3 supercharged than the 2.5? Seems like there would be more stuff to remove on the S. Also, if I have it down that far, should I have them replace the timing belt too? Mine is a '97 S with 73,XXX miles. I will probably sell it before 100k miles. What would you do?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Interesting. I checked Mazda's warranty times for the 2.3(3.5 hrs) and 2.5 (2.4 hrs). I find it odd that the Motor estimating guide would have it so low and Mazda's so high. What's even more interesting is that Mazda has a cam gear bulletin on the S which involves removing both covers and then some, yet they say it takes 2.1 hrs. So I think some efficiencies were realized after the initial Mazda times were established. Do you know what your actual times are for that job?
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    Hey all,

    I just picked up my 99 Premium a few days ago. Love the car but have one small concern. When I have the climate control fan running it makes a knocking noise, like something is stuck inside the vents. Not sure what it is. I have the 30 day warranty from the dealer, but was hoping any readers could share some insight before I take it there.

    BTW, I got 22.4 mpg on my first full tank of mixed driving, I know that comes up alot in postings.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Unless there is something you can see and reach through the vents, I'd get right back to the dealer and let them take care of it if the warranty covers it. It could be anything from debris to a bad bearing in the blower motor.

    For your information, the blower in my '01 P is the quietest of any car I have ever owned. So that is not a normal sound by any means.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    I had mine replaced under warranty - it was making clicking noise and they said it was bad fan bearing.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    The labor on the 2.3 is more. Replacing valve cover gaskets is unrelated to the timing belt and does not make the job any easier. (no overlap) Therefore it will not make a difference $$ wise to do the t-belt during the gasket replacement. Any guide that calls for less than two hours to replace vcg's on either engine is either a misprint or just a mistake. There are no shortcuts during that operation so the time should not have been lowered.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I never mentioned the timing belt. I was talking about the the friction spring bulletin that requires removal of the valve covers and one cam on each bank to replace the gear lock nut. I believe one shortcut was to unbolt the intake and tilt it out of the way rather than complete removal. anyway, I was curious what your actual times were for that job.
  • steevo2steevo2 Posts: 33
    Hey maltb, I believe rotarykid was referring to my earler post (#2356) about potential $$ savings from replacing the timing belt at the same time as valve cover gaskets. Looks like two different procedures with no savings to be had ... oh well.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    yes, I'll agree.
  • steevo2steevo2 Posts: 33
    Got estimate today from respected independent mechanic to replace VCG's on my 97 MilS. $400-$450 and a couple of days. One look at the Miller Cycle and he said, "...never seen an engine quite like that one". Hmmm ... I'm thinking $540 for the dealer repair looks like the way to go. Thanks for the input.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    "...never seen an engine quite like that one".

    Yeah, I don't think I'd let him hold my keys for more than 5 seconds.
  • jaydolljaydoll Posts: 120
    Found a 99 S model at dealer with 28.8K miles. It had leather/rrof/climate/traction, etc. Here are my concerns:

    1. Check engine light was on and it had a rough idle.

    2. Chrome wheels have some curb rash and the inside of the rim is rusty. Curb rash never looked so bad as is does on a chrome wheel.

    3. Dealer is asking $13999. I am going to offer $13500.

    Does this sound like a good deal? IF I get the car what should I have checked out within the 30 day warranty?

    Thanks for any info I get before I take the plunge.

    Jay
  • amathewamathew Posts: 3
    The check engine light has been a problem for me from the first time I jumped another car with my millenia. I have driven the car over the last 2 years and 50K miles with the light on at various intervals. I refuse to go to the stealer. There labor rates are rediculous.

    The timing belt replacement issue that has been discussed is funny. I paid 20K for my 98 millenia, and with 75 K miles on it, I will not be replacing the timing belt anytime soon. Many cars nowadays have a timing belt that will just cause the engine to continue moving even if the belt breaks. (My BMW has a timing chain that does not require replacement, and it basically has a very strong water pump that will only require replacement in extreme situations. So yes the engineering and quality exists for these parts to last a long time.) I have noticed that the least time a mechanic spends on my cars the better. Do the minimum maintenance annualy (My first car was a honda accord, and after the timing belt fix, the car was never the same.), and make sure the tires are inflated properly, and your breaks are adjusted to reduce premature wear.

    I change the oil with blended synthetic from mobil. It seems to work the best for me. Pure synthetic was just too much protections without the same performance over time. (I change it every 7500 miles in CT)

    Tires have been a pain. I have coopers on my 17' rims, and they are ok in the spring summer and fall, but they are not as good in the winter (we use sand in CT instead of salt in the winter so it is hard to grip the road reguardless of how good a tire you have). If you plan on cruisin over 100 mph invest in some good tires, and slow down during those turns.

    Once you get all that done, kick on your bose system, open up the sunroof, and enjoy the ride.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    I'd pass - somebody probably traded it in after checking with service on those problems and finding out that they'd cost a fortune to fix. Probably got $8K for trade in :-)
    If it doesn't run perfectly, the asking price should be either 10K or the should fix it all and give you 6 months bumper to bumper warranty.
    Just my $0.02
    Tomek
  • I would be really shy about a car with the problems you list. The prices of Mill's have dropped like a rock. They get no respect in the marketplace. Which is great if you want to pick one up on the cheap. I think you can get something cleaner and newer for just a couple $K more.

    Heck the prices you listed are higher than what Edmunds lists...red flag...
  • Does anybody know what OEM manufacturer is the best for replacement brake pads for a 1996 Millenia 2.5? The pads are rather expensive from Mazda and some online searching uncovered other manufacturers such as Nippon, Japan, and PBR. Are they standard semi-metallic pads?

    Any assistance would be appreciated.
    Many thanks.
  • I was having a problem with the engine light coming on in my 1999 base model. My dealer says it is a knock sensor and it will cost about $650.00 to replace. Does this price seem high?
  • I have a Mill, but have not had to replace pads. My experience with Hondas/Acuras is that it is worth it to pay more for OEM. Less noise and longer life.

    Any Mazda service people out there that can confirm who makes OE parts??
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Are most likely made by Akebono or Nippon. Manufacturers tend to change around on suppliers depending on availability and price.
  • Thanks for the feedback concerning OEM brake pads. I will probably try the Nippon.

    On another note, what was the general consensus opinion on what to do with the timing belt - change at 60K or let it go further? I bookmarked this board late in the game and it doesn't have good search capabilities.
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