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Mazda Millenia

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Comments

  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    I'd disagree with "Aluminum does not have the stamina of steel rims" - steel rims bend much more easily than alu ones. If you had same tires on alu and steel rims, aluminium would take much more abuse before being damaged. The thing is - as you note - that low profile tires are more "vulnerable" and this is what they put on aluminium wheels.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I've been reading the last few posts with interest. I agree the 16" wheels are less prone to damage because of the extra tire between the wheel and the road. And the same makes the "fatter" tire ride better. My 95 Olds also has aluminum wheels as did my 90 T-Bird. Neither of those nor my MM have had any damage to the wheels. I do however crash into the old lady in the Blue Lark rather than hit a pothole. Kinda hard on the grill though. ;-)

    One more thing on the aluminum. Where a steel wheel will bend easier, an aluminum wheel will crack. Whoosh, there goes the air. No cure for that but a new wheel. It also destroys the wheel balance and causes that vibration someone mentioned. If you can live with non-MM wheels though, there are far cheaper "Mags" available than the OEM's.
  • I have been reading for many years about mag wheels and always thought it was short for magnesium. Just what does the term describe or cover or imply? I just realized that I don't know everything after all, just like my wife has said for years. Oh well.... JC
  • Thanks for everyone's thoughts and comments. Here's the latest on my story...rather a saga :). I called Mazda customer care who assured me that a face-to-face meeting with the local district Mazda representive is possible. They called my dealership and arranged for a meeting - 2 wks from now. The local rep is apparently the highest authority for the area to approve new wheels or whatever. While talking with the Dealership to confirm time/appt etc, the Service mgr started talking to me more about my problem. He thought it strange that the peeling on the wheel will cause my air to leak and resulting shimmy. He think the rim is of steel and cannot leak air. I'm not a car guy, and only voiced what I've heard from my many trips to various mechanics who all blame the wheel. I will advise him of bulletin in msg #2622. So my next question - can wheel corrosion on the inside of the wheel (rim I guess) cause air leaks?
  • In message #2622 Mmerchant pointed this out as something to look into since it deals with wheels and corrosion. How do I find details on this service bulletin - does anyone know a website? Or already have the bulletin. Please share the details. Thanks!
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    0200401R AUG 01 Wheels - 17 Inch Chrome Wheel Corrosion

    Also:

    0200401 APR 03 Wheels - Chrome Wheel Rusting

    -------------------------------------------

    http://www.alldata.com/TSB/33/01332765.html
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I just used "Mag" as a generic for alloy wheels. It does stand for magnesium, but became a nickname kind of like Frigidaire did for refrigerator.
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    Hello everyone...I'm happy to say that we can once again have a weekly Mazda chat (for those of you who remember!)

    The chat will be for all Mazda owners. We are talking with the folks at Mazda to see if we can entice a few of the Brand Managers to stop in every once in a while and participate (no promises, but we are working on it!)

    I'm trying to find out from the various Mazda vehicle owners the following:

    1) what night of the week would work best?
    2) what time? (please give the timezone)
    3) what would you like the chat to be called? (e.g. the Subaru chat is the "Subaru Crew" chat)

    We hope to have the Mazda weekly chat going by mid-October.

    I'll check the discussions I post this announcement in - but to not distract you with scheduling details, feel free to email me your choices at sylvia@edmunds.com

    I'm happy this weekly event will be back.
  • Here's the web site for 2001 MM S service bulletins. The service dept of your Mazda dealership will have the bulletin details.

    http://www.alldata.com/TSB/33/01332765.html

    Another web site that I would recommend for getting info about recalls and NTSB bulletin is (scroll down on the page):

    http://www.pricingcentral.com/mazda/millenia.html

    Thanks

    mmerchant
  • Of course you can subscribe to the bulletin for $24.95 per annum/vehicle at:

    http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

    mmerchant
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    My '01 MMP is still running flawlessly. But starting about a month ago, I occasionally get a "Check Engine" light for a day or so. Nothing seems wrong when this happens, and I make it a habit to tighten the fuel filler cap at least 5 clicks after each fillup. I can't make a direct connection between fueling and the light coming on. I know that it usually has to do with pollution control, and could just be a bad oxygen sensor or such.

    I was wondering though if any other owners have had the light come on, and then just clear itself after maybe 3 to 4 starts. And if so have you had it checked to know what is causing it. It came on last Saturday when I was going to be close to a Mazda dealer (about 60 miles from home), but by the time I made a couple of stops elsewhere it had cleared so I just skipped the dealer visit.

    Any idea on the cause of this?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,902
    You might try posting your problem in the "Check Engine" light discussion. If you do, make sure to include the mileage too.

    kirstie_h
    Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host

    MODERATOR
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  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I'll give that a try.
  • This is most likely old hat, but I did a search and see that there have been others that have had problems much the same. I found an AllData service bulletin TSB 0600103/0600101R1 that deals with stuck and inoperative tilt on the millenia. My dealer says that the motor is gone, and yet it works intermittently. Motor:$385 (cdn.) New battery in the keyless, and doesn't work. Keyfob replacement $185 (cdn.) Finding some info that allows me to get these fixed or replaced by mazda at low/no cost: Priceless. Anyone able to help? I don't have the actual service bulletins, only the bulletin #'s.
  • If the tilt works intermittantly then I doubt very much if the motor is gone.
    1. Did the keyless remote work before?
    2. Did you get a keyless remote with the (new or used) car?
    3. Why did you buy another remote? Just because the new battery didn't work?
    To get to the meat of the TSB's (technical service bulletins) you have to subscribe. I think it is $25 U.S. for one year. Depending on your dealer's attitude, you may be able to read (but not copy) the service bulletin.
    If you did not have a keyless remote before (for whatever reason) then you must confirm that the one you purchased is the right one for your '98.
    What is the FCC and Canadian part numbers on the back?
    There is a lot of erroneous programming information out there. I have successfully programmed several remotes for my 2000 MM S. All the remotes you have for the car must be programmed at the same time. If you have one that worked before and you are adding another, then the first one will need to be redone at the same time. This is getting too detailed at this stage so please explain your exact problems, provide the numbers on the remote, etc. etc. and we can take it from there. Do not let the dealer replace the motor at this time!!! fairwood
  • Q,If the tilt works intermittantly then I doubt very much if the motor is gone. A. Mazda checked the wiring, and says it is fine. Motor is sealed unit they say, and can't be repaird. According to them, the contacts contact only occasionally, which is why it works infrequently, and can't be repaired.
    1. Did the keyless remote work before? YES
    2. Did you get a keyless remote with the (new or used) car? YES
    3. Why did you buy another remote? Just because the new battery didn't work? A. I haven't. Mazda says I need a new one. Doesn't work with new battery. Dealer says the "cirguit board is likely damaged. Once when I dropped my keys though, it worked temporarily. I've tried to "play"with the contacts. but will not work.
    To get to the meat of the TSB's (technical service bulletins) you have to subscribe. I think it is $25 U.S. for one year. Depending on your dealer's attitude, you may be able to read (but not copy) the service bulletin.
    If you did not have a keyless remote before (for whatever reason) then you must confirm that the one you purchased is the right one for your '98.
    What is the FCC and Canadian part numbers on the back?
    There is a lot of erroneous programming information out there. I have successfully programmed several remotes for my 2000 MM S. All the remotes you have for the car must be programmed at the same time. If you have one that worked before and you are adding another, then the first one will need to be redone at the same time. This is getting too detailed at this stage so please explain your exact problems, provide the numbers on the remote, etc. etc. and we can take it from there. Do not let the dealer replace the motor at this time!!! fairwood

    Hope this helps Fairwood.
  • stragf: If you feel you should get a new keyless remote then I suggest you buy one thru eBay. (www.ebay.com). There are at least 3 or 4 listed every day and they sell anywhere from $10 to $40 depending on who is bidding and how "hungry" the buyers are. Those are U.S. dollars and shipping to Canada is around $7. Be sure to confirm that the seller will ship to Canada as some will and some won't.
    I can't imagine a remote being damaged from simply dropping on the ground. That must happen a bazillion times a day around the world and I doubt that a printed circuit board would be damaged that easily. But who is to say? Did you check the fuse contacts to make sure the fuse is seated tightly? Sometimes the contacts get corroded and simply pulling and re inserting the fuse is all that is necessary to clean the oxide off. Personally I think that the motorized tilt steering wheel is one of the most stupid overdesigns of the past century!!! The strange workings of the oriental mind I guess. A simple mechanical lever such as I had on my Lincoln Town Car would be far cheaper and simpler to build. I could tilt the wheel up and out of the way without turning off the key each time I stopped at the mail box etc. My ample gut prohibits my sliding in or out with the wheel in my preferred driving position. From what I have seen on other sites, the same fuse affects both the tilt wheel and the remote door locks. fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Quote " Personally I think that the motorized tilt steering wheel is one of the most stupid overdesigns of the past century!!!"

    I set mine where I want it and turned it off a year and a half ago. What an overkill. But, a manual tilt as in my '95 Olds does make sense to me.

    More dislikes that I consider stupid overkill?

    Autodimming anything. What a nuisance to me and the approaching driver. Plus, I'm not too stupid to do it myself, and at the appropriate time.

    $2000 navigation systems. I much prefer a $3 roadmap.

    I guess I'm just not the "luxury" type.

    By the way, I don't have either by choice on either car. My T-Bird had auto dim lights and mirror, and I hated them.
  • Ah yes fwatson but can you fold a roadmap correctly? That was always the true test of an experienced driver in the "good ol' days". And those $3. maps were free for the asking at any full service gas station. Having said that, I wouldn't want to go back there. fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I can't and don't want to go back in time. And yes, I have no problem folding a map back as it was.

    To me, there are some things better left to human judgement, assuming the human has any. I check the map before starting out on a trip, and leave it folded open to the next stretch. I also was far better at knowing when a car was coming over a rise or around a curve, so I could dim at the right time, not after the other driver was blinded by my lights. And I hate brights in my rearview mirror, so I dim the mirrors any time there is a car behind me. The autodim mirror seemed to love brights in my eyes. I swapped the thing out for a manual one and turned off that worthless autodim headlight feature.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    My Owners Manual tells me to take my MM to the dealer to have the Cabin Air Filter changed. But having observed the mechanics at most dealerships, I can't help but feel I am as capable of removing a filter and cleaning it or installing a new one as they are.

    First, do all 2001 MM's have one, and if so where is it located? I think I can handle the strenuous physical job if I know where to look. I've worn out the Google search engine trying to get this information, but I guess Mazda considers it "Top Secret".

    Anybody know where it is if I have one?
  • I went thru a similar exercise last June. The previous owner was a smoker and I wanted to replace that cabin filter. I asked where it was on this or another help site and was told that it was up and under the glove box. Just pull down the flap or somesuch wording and pull the filter out. Yeah, right. My 2000 MM S has a sort of panel up or under there but no way could I get it to pull off. I ended up spritzing some Febreeze around (careful with leather seats) then I put half a sheet of Downy dryer softener over part of the inlet grill at the rear of the engine room at the firewall. That seems to have done the trick.
    If you do get the panel off let us know your method. If you were an acrobat in this or a former life it would help you in the contortions you have to go thru to get under there. fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I have no problem with odors etc. I am just trying to get an answer as to where the Cabin Filter is located if I have one so I can do preventive maintenance.

    Thanks for the input.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    The cabin air filter is located under the dash by the glove box. You have to remove the plastic cover they have under there. There are no screws to this it should just pop out, after you find the right spots to pull down at. Once you drop the plasic cover down it is easy to see where they are at. According to the '02 workshop manual you have to remove a wing nut that is on a tee that holds the filters in place. This tee they call a rubber sheet. There are two filters one with polyurethane and one without. The manual says the filter should be replaced every 12,000 miles or once a year. It also says that the filter cannot be reused by cleaning it with water or compressed air.

    These are supposed to be basic instructions for the Mill in general so it should not matter which model you have. I hope this helps.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    kcm8419.

    That is exactly the information I was looking for. I will check that out.
  • Hello all. My 99P just turned over 50k yesterday. Got it in April with 34k. About 25 mpg overall. Everything is great except the seat warmers stopped working. Not sure when exactly, but when I turned them on yesterday morning, they never heated up. Is this common? Any simple troubleshooting you guys know of (fuses maybe, etc)? Thanks, Brady
  • Welcome. Your problem could be fuse related (did you check the owner's manual for fuse location, type, etc.?) or it could be a loose or open plug connection under the seat. If you vacuumed under the seats when you first got the car last spring then that is a distinct possiblility. I haven't looked under there myself too closely but it has been mentioned as a common source of seat heater problems on other Mazda help sites. It is getting close to that time of year when we northerners will be hitting those seat heater switches, unfortunately. Let us know how you make out. fairwood
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I do not know if the '99 has it, but if you push the seat warmer button on and the light on it comes on then your fuse will be ok. As mentioned by fairwood and I think fwatson before, check to make sure that there is no plug under the seat that came unplugged.
  • I tried my driver's seat warmer for the first time yesterday and I too was disappointed to find that it either does not work or it is as lousy as my 1984 Volvo 760. The Volvo had leather/vinyl seats also and was totally useless. Volvo admitted as much and upped the heaters for subsequent years. There is usually a pressure switch in or under the padding and I think it takes about 50 lbs or more before the heaters will come on. This prevents the passenger seat to come on (if the switch is on) with a bag of groceries etc. on it. Anyway, I checked the 20 amp fuse in the fuse block under the hood and of course it is ok - the switch light came on yesterday confirming what kcm8419 said above. Has anyone tried to look or feel under the driver's seat? No way, Jose. I have my seat up as high as it will go and maybe a three year old child could feel and look under there, not me. If I can't see or get under there then I doubt if a mechanic could do so and would have to charge prevailing labor rates. So much for theory vs practice. I still maintain that we should spend the winter months with fwatson in Florida. All agreed, say aye. fairwood.
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