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Mazda Millenia

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Comments

  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    is that a loaded question. ;-0

    The Millenia are excellent cars, but 90000 is a lot of use by who knows who. If it is an S, it may end up costing more to fix than it costs to buy if that Supercharger goes bad. And if it is a P or an S which has not had the timing belt changed he is in for a very expensive job to do so.

    I love my MM, but I'm not at all sure I would buy one with 90000 miles on it unless I personally knew the present owner and could see all the records proving it has had all necessary maintenance. If nothing else I'd pay a very trusted mechanic to do an end to end inspection of it or any other car with that much milage.

    And coming out of a truck he is going to feel like he is sitting on the ground. The MM is very low.

    Good luck.
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    Thanks fwatson and tomekk for your responses. Here's something you may or may not have come across.

    I have had my "new" MMS, 2001, for less than 48 hours. It has been quite cold here in NJ. I was standing directly behind the car, just checking it out, when I saw a rather long icile hanging from the left rear. Looking underneath, the icile was hanging from the driver side "tow hook" just underneath the rear bumper. The tail pipe is of course on the passenger side. I cannot figure out where this moisture is coming from, to trickle down the tow hook and form this icicle, which is nearly touching the ground. I did run my hand under and around the area and did feel air rushing by, out the rear of the car. The car was running at the time and the HVAC system was on. I am thinking this icicle is a byproduct of the HVAC system, but I have never seen icicles forming like that before on any other car.

    I am going to call the mazda dealer and speak to service, but I thought I'd throw the issue out here.
  • Hello folks. I've been lurking in this discussion group for months now. I'm interested in automotive "value" seams, those places where the "value" of the vehicle is more than the price. From all our your comments, it seems that the Milly fits this, more car than the money would indicate.

    So, today I bought a 2000 Milly from an auction. Mazda Credit dumped the car in the auction on a snowy day here in Ontario. Few buyers, and I bought the car for $9400 US. $12,200 Cdn. It is pearl white, has leather and a sunroof. That's all I know about it, I haven't even seen it yet. My broker is delivering the car to my mechanic for complete fluid changes and safety certification. I appreciate the description of all your experiences. I'll report in as I figure this thing out.

    Lots of snow here, zero F. I hope it's good in cold weather. It's my winter beatewr for my '87 Supra Turbo.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I hate to bring this up because it sounds to rediculeous to mention, but are you sure that all the bolts are still in the suspension system. It almost sounds like some bolts are missing and the whole front end is moving like there is no struts attached to it. I guess that you would also pick up a rattle in the front end if this was the case.

    Lammy1 I agree with tommek in that I can normally put in an additional 1.5 to 2 gallons more gas after the initial shut off of the pump.

    Rpdrpd on your icicle, I read someplace that all cars have a drain line for their a/c. So I would assume that the Mills is in the back therefore the icicle.
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    I did talk to Mazda service and they had no idea what I was talking about. I am leaning toward's the drain line idea, but would like to know for sure if the MM has its drain line coming out the rear of the car. Any confirmation?

    I do love this car. I turn down the dash lighting at night a bit because it is rather bright. Love that the heated seats cycle on and off based on the thermostat setting. My 97 MM's heated seats would roast my butt, then I would have to turn the heat off, only to turn it back on again. Annoyances like the steering wheel radio/cruise controls not being lit, no auto-on headlights, lack of fog-light on indicator, are completely overshadowed by the MMS's looks, especially the 2001 re-do, the ride, comfort and performance.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    Now that I am finished thinking out loud about the absurd I have a few questions. You never mentioned if the car nose dives when you hit your brakes? Have you pushed down on the front and the back of the car to see how much the car rebounds? Is there a big difference between the front and the back rebound? Have you taken your car to a front end specialist to let them check it out?

    Rpdrpd you mentioned that you had the hvac running when you noticed the icicle and then you felt air coming from that area. Did you turn your hvac off and then check for air?
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Quote " I am leaning toward's the drain line idea, but would like to know for sure if the MM has its drain line coming out the rear of the car. Any confirmation?"

    The AC drips from the right end of the firewall (glovebox)area.
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    I figured as much, fwatson. And no, kcm8419, I didn't turn off the HVAC to see if the air still blew/blowed. That would have made too much sense!

    Running the HVAC on auto I see that the A/C is always on. Yet last night I did not see any icicles, and it was cold enough. It will be even colder tonight so I will continue checking.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    Common sense says that the a/c drain would be up front but I thought I would put it out there. I do have another suggestion though and that is the sunroof. It sounds strange but looking up in the '02 service manual it says that there are two drain lines for the sunroof. One for the front of it and one for the back of it. The drawings are not big enough to get a lot of detail but it looks like the back one comes out by one of the rear wheel wells. My guess is the left rear wheel well. Hope this helps you.
  • I have a ‘00 MM S with 65K miles on it, bought in late 2002 for $14,700. At 58K, the dreaded “Check Engine” light came on and I learned that all the oxygen sensors needed to be replaced. This came, with parts and labor, to $1200. Now, having driven 7k mi in the last year, the CEL has come back to haunt me. At first, the garage (not a dealership) said that “Unknown Code” showed up on the diagnostic test. The light was reset. Two days later, it came back on and the mechanics tell me that the there is an uneven firing of the cylinders. I noticed a moment of roughness just before the light came on. To repair this will apparently mean new ignition coils and to be sure to get the problem solved I will need six of them at $240 each and labor of $225, totalling around $1750. They tell me that I should have this work done soon as raw gas going into the system will eventually wreck those really expensive oxygen sensors. I have noticed no degradation in gas mileage or performance; in fact, the car runs like a clock. I am surprised that a four year old car that has been well-treated needs this much expensive work related to the electronics. I will have spent more in two years maintaining this car than in seven years with my Integra. Do I have a lemon or does someone have a better idea? I see that other posters here have gotten by with just replacing one coil, although the labor is as much as changing all six of them. But $450 is a lot more attractive than $1700. The CEL is on steadily and does not flash. So this is what happens when you fall for a pretty face...
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I would go to Autozone and let them read the code for you. Make sure you write the code down, because it should be able to tell you exactly which ignition coil it is. If you can get the code number come back and I will see if I can help you. I think some mechanic is seeing dollar signs to say that they need to replace all six. I also think that you might want to look for another mechanic because I doubt they needed to replace all your sensors. It sounds like the only way they can fix any thing is if they replace half the engine just to make sure they actually did get what was causing the problem.
  • KCM8419, thank you for your comments. I went to AutoZone this morning and they were very helpful. The code read "P0301--1 cylinder misfiring." The AutoZone man thought it was probably a plug or plug wire at fault.

    Shortly after a warm start this morning, the car ran more roughly and then smoothed out again.

    I will indeed find another mechanic as I am not very confident after I was told that 1) there is no problem and 2) well, there is and it will cost you $1700 to fix it. A bit slapdash.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    The PO301 - PO306 are the cylinder codes. The last number tells you which cylinder is causeing the problem. In your case it is cylinder 1.
  • Can anyone help me? I have a 1999 Base Millinia (with just about 24,000mls) and would like heated seats, heated mirrors and keyley entry. I prefer to install only Mazda components if possible. Have anyknow if this can be done? The dealer is of no help.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    Just leave them on all the time (they go off a minute or so after you switch the car off).
    tomekk
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    Thanks tomekk. I have been using that trick.

    Does anyone have the dealer installed autodimming review mirror? Does it have a compass? I was wondering how much you might have paid and if it was installed properly.

    Thanks
    2001 MMS
  • rpdrpd,

    Don't know if this will help or not...I have the auto dimming mirror on my '02 mms. It does have a compass. Doubt the dealer installed it though. I didn't order the car, it was just on the lot with every option & I bought it that way. I still have the window sticker ( yea, I'm one of those guys ) and under the options section on that, it lists the mirror at $150.

    Tuckerdog
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    Thanks tuckerdog1. I downloaded a 2002 Millenia Accessories brochure from Mazda's website. Along with car covers, sunroof deflectors, etc., it showed the autodimming mirror, and described it as a dealer installed accessory. Interesting though that it shows up on your window sticker. Called the dealer. The mirror costs $150, and installation will be a little over $200. Since there probably aren't any wires or anything the mirror needs to be connected to, and depending on how the mirror is actually mounted to the window, I think I could save the $200 and install it myself.
  • rpdrpd,

    I'm pretty sure there is some wiring involved. My wife is out with the car right now, so I can't check it. But it does seem like there is a black line coming off it. It has to get the power to operate from somewhere.

    Tuckerdog
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    You're right tuckerdog, there is wiring involved. I looked again at the picture of the mirror in the Millenia brochure, then looked on e-bay, and I think I see the same mirror for sale all over e-bay. I actually saw a mirror I like more on e-bay, a Gentex. Have no idea if it would work in the Millenia, and if I buy it I have no idea who I would get to put it in. I still think $200 is a lot for Mazda installation, but I do want it done right.

    Do you have a compass/temperature readout, and where is it, within the actual mirror or on the bottom of the mirror, in the frame?
  • dmoyerdmoyer Posts: 27
    95L 2.5 liter with 95K miles. I researched this engine at 60K when the book calls for replacement of the timing belt and found that this engine (95 to 02) in not a interference engine (If the timing belt breaks, mechanical engine damage occurs. It most commonly involves open valves being struck by pistons, resulting in the need for expensive repairs. In extreme cases, a replacement engine may be required.); the same belt is used on both the CA and outside CA engines; and the CA replacement is only at 105K. So I waited until now to have the work done and the old belt still looks ok, but then looks can be deceiving. Total cost for belt, camseals and related PS/WP and AC/Alt belts was $160, plus 4.5 hrs labor $225, total $384. Except for normal maint, tires, spark plug wires and value cover gasket replaced ($330), this 95 has been good to me.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    for the price information on the 105000 mile service. You are right that both MM engines are non-interference, a great advantage in case of belt breakage.

    I have to admit though that as I started to read your post I thought you were saying the non-interference engine was subject to all that damage, but you did clear it up. I just want to be sure that someone else doesn't think they can destroy the MM engines by letting the belt break. ;-)
  • Yuk, more seat heater problems. I can see some hints about this problem in past posts, but I can't tie anything down to what I'm seeing. My seat heaters aren't working and it's zero F in Ontario right now. You southern gentlemen and ladies just have no idea what it's like putting your tender tush down on ice cold leather.

    Here's what I've been able to determine. The seats aren't heating. The little lights on the switches do not luminate when they are turned on. Fuse number 18 in the engine compartment fuse box, which is the one for the seat heaters is fine. The seat heater relay, which is located behind the rear seat passenger side (in the trunk actually) seems to be powered on all the proper terminals.

    Has anyone figured out the right procedure to trace this?
  • tig2002tig2002 Posts: 81
    Well, looks like I am jointing the club in real world now. I got the check engine light on yesterday - '02 Millenia P with 23,800 miles. First what I thought was the fuel cap since this is the most common cause, but after checking I found it in secure position, so that is basically all I could do before taking the car to the dealer. The car is under warranty, so I am not so disappointed. But I am really scared because of my bad experience with auto mechanics, even with trusted authorized by factory ones. They may or may not fix the original problem, but also will do other unnecessary work that car does not really need, especially working on the car with warranty (something like what some doctors do with patients who have medicate). In my case, they may reset the CPU, but claim that the problem is fixed and some defective part was replaced, and then if I complain after a while with the same problem, they will find something else. Unfortunately this happened to me in the past, and not once. For example I had ABS light on with my '98 RAV4, and after going through diagnostic tests Toyota dealer said that all four ABS sensors are bad - what a nonsense! I purchased one new ABS sensor myself and started replacing one by one until light went off - only one was bad. The estimate was $1,090 with four parts and labor, and I ended up with $145.

    I did not notice any loss of power, and the engine works as smooth as before. What I did notice is that the gas mileage went down a few weeks ago, but I thought this is due to cold weather – from 22-23MPG to 20-21MPG in town.

    Does someone have any recommendations or suggestions? If not, I would probably go to AutoZone and ask them to read the code of the failure, and then compare what dealer says afterwards.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Why wait? The only way to know the answer is to read the codes. AutoZone does it free, and you will be armed with the answer before taking it to the dealer for repair.

    The CEL on my '01P was due to a faulty knock sensor which AutoZone read out. The dealer got the same code and replaced it. End of problem.
  • tig2002tig2002 Posts: 81
    Thanks fwatson. Do you think this could be the reason of the gas mileage difference? I also heard that one of the most common reasons is the oxygen sensor failure. Oh, well. I will just visit the AutoZone and take the car to the dealer to compare the results. I am glad the car is under warranty, but such failure at 23,800 mi. is quite disappointing.

    P.S. I still love my Millenia.
  • tig2002tig2002 Posts: 81
    OK, now I am confused. I already made an appointment with dealer, but I just started my MM and the light went off. I drove about 5 miles, and everything seems to be fine for now. I am wondering if it has something to do with the fuel cap that I removed and placed back yesterday, and it took a while to reset the CPU.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Don't be confused by it going off and on. Mine did that constantly. Sensors go out frequently on all brands of cars. With mine it was that moisture had gotten into the sensor causing it to work intermittently, thus the off/on cycle. I didn't check the milage, but it did cause a slight decrease in performance when the light was on.

    When the ECM went out on my 95 Olds 88, the CEL also came and went.

    Edmunds has a thread on Check Engine Light in the maintenance forum.

    alcan ""Check Engine" light" Jan 29, 2004 5:17pm

    It's interesting reading but you won't learn much there except that this is a very common problem to all cars.
  • tig2002tig2002 Posts: 81
    Thanks fwatson. Should I keep my appointment with dealer even with "check engine" off? Do you think that diagnostic tests will identify the cause of intermittent failure?
  • rpdrpd,

    Sorry it's taken 2 days to reply. Haven't been back here. The wires go up under the headliner. That's likey why the dealer is charging so much to install. As far as the readout, it just gives compass direction. Outside temp is on our dash. It switches between the climate control temp & outside temp. The mirror readout is on the bottom of the mirror frame in a green LED like display.
    I like the mirror, but I don't think it's worth the $350 it would cost you for the item & install.

    Tuckerdog
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