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Oldsmobile Silhouette

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Comments

  • azuazu Posts: 84
    The rubber elbow on the PCV is cracked on my 99. I temporarily taped it up and is working. I could not find just that piece and bought the complete tubing. This elbow and tubing is one piece. While going to replace it, it seems it goes to the far other end of the manifold in the back. Will I need to roll the engine forward to access that end or can I get it through the back on a lift?
  • YES IT IS POSSABLE FOR YOUR CAR TO BE OUT OF ALLINMENT AND YOU NOT KNOW I HAVE AN OLDS ALERO,
    ONE OF THE BACK A FRAME IS BENT AND IT GOSE THREW A TIRE EVERY SIX MONTHS AS SOON AS I FIX THE PROBLEM WITH MY NOISEY LIFTER ON MY VAN I AM PLANNING ON REPLACEING THAT AND GET A FOUR WHEEL ALLINMENT JOB DONE.
    THE CAR HANDLES FINE IT JUST GOSE THREW A LOT OF TIRES
  • CHECK THE POWER STEERING PUMP MINE MAKES THE SAME NOISE ONE MINUTE WHINNES LIKE CRAZY THE NEXT NOTHING IT HAS BEN DOING IT FOR THE LAST YEAR AND A HALF ONCE IN A WHILE I PUT SEALER IN IT STOPS FOR A WHILE I FIGURE AS LONG AS IT WORKS I WILL LEAVE WELL ENOUGH A LONE
  • I THINK MAYBE YOU GOT A BAD ONE.
    I HAVE HAD MINE FOR FIVE YEARS NEVER HAD A PROBLEM UNTILL A YEAR AGO AT ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY SIX THOUSAND MILES IT BLEW UP SO I REBUILT THE MOTER I AM HAVE A FEW ISUES LATELY BUT I WOULD BUY ANOTHER ONE I A MINUTE
  • A BAD FULE INJECTORE BUT YOU MIGHT WANT TO LET THE DEALER DO I JUST DID ONE AND IT IS A JOB YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO
  • I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Silhouette with 255000 miles on it. Recently, the Check Engine Light came on, then off. I have it check anyway. The Code Reader shows Trouble Code P072 - Torque Converter Circuit Stuck On. Can anybody tell me what it is? And what need to be done to fix it? Thanks. :confuse:">
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    The rear window washer is not putting out any fluid. Is there a seperate pump from the front? The front works fine. If not I would suspect a loose/broken hose somewhere.
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    I am going to answer my own post.

    There are two pumps in the reservoir, one for front and one for back. I found my problem, it was a disconnected line just before the firewall. I love easy fixes!!
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    I have a 99 and wonder if there is anyway to drain any moisture accumulation in the compressor and/or shock. Since it has been below freezing I am getting a knocking noise from the rear suspension, like that of a bad shock, for about 5-30 minutes depending on the temp. I suspect that the shock has frozen water in it.
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    To replace this do you need to roll the engine forward or can you access the back of the intake manifold up on a lift?
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    It has slowing started dimming and now it is barley visible. Is there a bulb that went out possibly? This is on a 99 model.
  • hi im having a couple of issues. first my van blew a head gasket. so i redid the heads. new gaskets, had them checked everything. oh yeah it has a 3.4 v6 in it. put it back together. started it the whole top end is chattering like really loud runs. but is loud. also am getting a #2 missfire code. please help!!! thanks, matt
  • hhua1hhua1 Posts: 41
    Our 2000 Silhouette, 100K miles, had these ABS and Traction Control Off warning lights solid on recently. Read the error code and it was clear, no error codes. Checked both tail light assemblies wiring and they looked fine. Checked the driver side speed sensor wiring inside the driver side front wheel and it looked ok.

    Finally checked the passenger side front wheel speed sensor wiring, found it was broken, the mounting clip fell off and the wires rubbed against the frame and eventually the wires broke. Soldered the broken wires, with additional wires, back to the connector. Reconnect the connector and fixed the problem.
  • 99oldsvan99oldsvan Posts: 1
    Hello

    i have a 1999 olds van with 297K km on it and have had the transmission rebuilt about 3000 km ago but now it seems that it needs a new gas filter cause this has happened a few times and is now to the point i cannot go above 80 km/h once i reach that speed the car starts to jerk back and forth as if it is running out of gas but i have a half tank

    does anyone have any other suggestions besides trying to change the gas filter .. then the fuel pump ?

    any help would be muchly appreciated

    P.S can you also tell me where the gas filter is ?
  • vandrvrvandrvr Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Olds Silhouette. Just had the front and rear brakes done (2 weeks ago). I noticed a small squeek coming from the passenger front wheel but didn't think anything of it. Yesterday while driving in the highway the whole front end started shimying wildly. It felt like a wheel was about to come off. I pulled both front wheels and checked the linkage by shaking. Everything seemed solid. Wheels back on, I took it for a test drive and the shimy is still there. Now even at slower speeds it shakes the whole front. When I got back home I noticed that the front passenger wheel was extremely hot. The rim was so hot I could not touch it without burning my hand. Could the shimy and heat be the result of a botched brake job?
  • Sounds like a bad wheel bearing. I just replaced both the fronts on my 02 Silhouette. Jack the car up and if you can wiggle the tire you have your diagnosis. I also replaced the struts. The car rides like new.
  • my5kiddosmy5kiddos Posts: 1
    HELP!!!!!

    I've had this car a little over a year and has been a great car until a month or so ago. It all started with spitting and spurtting. Mechanic said it was a random misfire and that a part (sorry can't remember which is was) had to be replaced. Cool that problem fixed.

    close to 2 weeks or so later new problem popped up. If the car got hot or driven from work to the grocery store (1 mile away) did my shopping (what 30 mins tops) the car wouldn't start. It would turn over and sound like it would start but wouldn't. Left it overnight and it started right up the next morning. Took it to the mechanic he said the sensor needed to be changed. Changed the sensor, same thing happened again. Thankfully I was still in town and close to home. Left it overnight again and it started right up the next morning. Took it back to the mechanic he said it needs the crank shaft sensor. After that same thing happened same day I got it back. This time I was stuck at lunch 3 miles from work. Called the mechanic he said it has to be the module. I purchased the module, he put it in drove it from his shop to work (1 mile if that far) left it overnight (had a meeting and was scared it would happen again) came to work the next morning went to take it when I left for lunch it won't start. It has now been down for 2 weeks won't start just sounds like it wants too. took it to a different mechanic (thankfully next door to my work) and he has looked at it for the last 2 weeks checking the same parts the other mechanic put in and cannot figure out what it is. Any ideas??? any suggestions??? I'm at a loss and out of $$ to keep spending on it. Thanks Jen :cry: :confuse:
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    I had a misfire that I thought was transmission problem. Took it to a shop and they said it was transmission. I took it to a GM dealer and they found problem right away. It was a melted crankshaft sensor wiring harness. and not transmission. I would take it to a GM dealer as they know these vehicles well.
  • ncostelloncostello Posts: 11
    Did your vehicle have a check engine light illuminated in the instrument panel? If not, that's ok because the on board computer (PCM) stores diagnostic trouble codes and readiness flags that can be observed with an OBD scan tool. Ask your mechanic if he used a scan tool to diagnose the problem.
    The first thing to do is scan the computer. Check for a blown fuse in the fuel system including the fuel relay. Check battery voltage and at the battery and resistance at all grounding points that directly return to the battery. This would be an ohm check.
    The fuel and air filters along with spark plugs should be inspected. Have the fuel pressure checked at the fuel pump. The PCM could be faulty or have an insufficient ground. Two weeks is too long. Ask around about a good mechanic that is reasonably priced. The dealership is highway robbery. A good mechanic can diagnose your van and at half the price per hour than the dealer who uses the same methods. Do not pay the current mechanic for he has not fixed anything and tow the van to a shop people suggest. Check the Internet for reputable shops in your area. Good luck.">link title
  • ncostelloncostello Posts: 11
    The #2 cylinder has a rocker arm that wasn't correctly tourqued during reassembly. The arm came loose and one of the pushrods has shifted from correct position. Or pushrods could have been installed in the wrong position. If this is the case you have a part failure in the 2 cylinder. Pushrod bent, valve stem damage, and possibly camshaft damage.
  • vandrvrvandrvr Posts: 3
    I took it back to the same repair shop. The caliper on the passenger side had seized. The mechanic said it was a common problem. That said why wouldn’t they check for that during the brake repair? I still have a slight shimmy even though the shop said that they checked the rotor. I'm very suspicious of their diagnosis after the initial repair.
  • Hello All, I have an 02 Silhouette with 113k miles on it. Has been a Great Van for us. Recently it would not start. I replaced the battery and it started the first try. 10 min later, it just clicks. So, I replaced the starter solenoid combo with no better. Still Clicks!. Just replaced the starter relay also and still nothing!.. If I jump the starter, it starts directly up. Any help will be great!! Also there is No security light on the dash flashing. Thank You Much!
  • Check the battery cables from the battery. My 02 needed then replaced a while ago because the wire broke inside.
  • I had this same problem which turned out (after much investigation) to be a loose chassis ground under the strangely located fuse box. Had to take the whole assembly off to locate the grounding bolt. After tightening it I had no further problems (knocking wood).
  • I have the exact same vehicle and problem. I was wondering where you looked for the bench seat and if it worked.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    We bought this van new in 2001. We like it, but it is HIGH MAINTENANCE! Most of the serious stuff was fixed under the 5 year warranty (over $4K in dealer bills paid by GM), but I have also performed some additional non-standard repairs since the warranty expired in 2006. Here are some problems that I encountered and the repairs I performed myself in the home garage. I hope this information helps people keep their vans going strong!

    A/C. This summer the A/C condensate drain started backing up into the cabin. The symptom first noticed is wet floor carpet/mats and then NO water draining on the ground outside. This is bad news in the summer due to quick mold formation and also water under the floor mats shorting out the electrical cables. I first tried sticking a wire inside the drain hole (high on passenger side firewall) to clear it out. There did not appear to be anything clogging the hole, and this probing did not fix it.

    Reading on various forums about this and similar issues on other vans, I realized that it could be due to a bad gasket or seal that is impossible to get to due to its location inside the firewall. As I was doing some home plumbing repairs at the time, I decided to try some flexible plastic tubing. I used grey Merflex PEX tubing with a 3/8" OD and 1/4" ID and it fit perfectly. I pushed it as far in as it would go, and then after it came out I made a slight downward curve, and then I ran it down to drain near the control arm/ground. Obviously, you want to keep it away from the exhaust manifold, but there is plenty of room in this area to safely locate the new drain pipe. I used a plastic zip tie to secure the pipe to something solid and not moving. This fix immediately got the H20 out of the cab and onto the ground and it has held up fine since June! You can buy the tubing at any home improvement store in 2'-3' pieces and then cut to length.

    Hub/Bearing Assembly. A couple of years ago we started to get the amber ABS light coming on intermittently and then after that we heard a whining sound coming from the lower front of the car. I suspected a bad hub bearing due to the sound and also that the ABS sensor is internal to the hub. We made a best guess as to which side was bad by driving and listening and also putting the car on jacks and moving the wheels and listening. I replaced the front left Hub/Bearing Assembly with a new Timken (Made in USA) version and the whine is gone and the ABS light has stayed off.

    Control Arm. At the same time I was doing the Hub, I decided to replace the front left half-axle because the van was making a clicking sound coming from the left front axle area. I took out the OEM axle and bought a new one at AutoZone. I was surprised that no core charge was included with the purchase price and that the part was brand new. Anyway, I put in the new left half axle, but the clicking sound DID NOT go away! In addition, within a short time period (4-6 months) the van started making a clunking sound when shifted into drive from park when cold. I got busy and I put off trying to solve the old and new problem.

    Fast forward to present (Oct. '10), and I noticed when changing the oil that the lifetime warranty, 2 year old, half axle had already torn a hole in its boot. I have been reading about a clicking sound in GM minivans caused by a bad control arm bushings. So I called automotive machine shops and asked about the price of getting a control arm bushing replaced. The responses ranged from not interested to "$30-$50 range." So I talked to my neighbor who works at another national auto parts chain and he got me the new front left control arm at his employee price of $51.

    I replaced the old control arm, and sure enough, the vertical bushing in the old arm could be pushed out with my fingers (i.e defective). I also took out the defective half axle and returned it to AutoZone. All they had for replacement was the same new, but low quality (Made in China), part that I had purchased two years ago. I even took one out of the box, grabbed each end and turned in opposite directions, and noticed quite a bit of play. I declined the new part and got my $60 back. I put the OEM axle, that I had kept from two years ago, back in the van and reassembled everything. Both the clicking sound from the control arm and the clunking sound from the low quality half axle are GONE!

    Finally, the amount of rotational play in the 7 year old used OEM half axle was less than that of a new, albeit lower quality, part purchased today. Let the Buyer Beware!
  • I have a 99 silhouette. It started clicking when I would try to start it, a few hours later it would start up. Thought it was starter. Took off and got it checked out and was fine. Put starter back on and now when I turn the key switch I get nothing. No clicking of the starter, not a thing. When I turn the key on and jump the starter posts, it turns over and that Is it, it doesn't want to start up. I don't think the fuel pump is coming on either. I thought my fuels lines were froze or there was no gas but I think I took care of all that. So now need to get it started somehow. Any suggestions? Please help.
  • I have the ABS light and Track off light both lit up on my dashboard. Mechanic I saw over the weekend said I would need a new brake pump. Does that sound right?
    I am also looking for a good mechanic in the Dallas,TX area.
  • Check the brake fluid reservoir for proper fluid level. I'm almost certain you don't need new parts. For example, a new brake pump malfunction would cause u to loose brakes. If it's leaking, ask the mechanic to reseal it rather than buying a whole new one. Good luck
  • Hi

    I recently fixed a problem with shoddy Walmart labor installed tires. They shook the front end for awhile until I figured out the problem. SO I had it fixed. Now I noticed a vibration that seems to be under my feet. I can feel the vibration through the steering wheel. It only happens when the van is moving. So it could be an axle or something that rotates. It has gotten worse and very noticeable. Does this sound like a bad axle or wheel bearing? I can usually do the work myself but haven't done any in years. Thanks.

    2003 Silhouette.
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