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BMW 5-Series Sedans

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  • It is my understanding that the short treadlife with the SPP is not due to the tires themselves but to the tuning and alignment of the suspension. Any tire will last less if you have the sport package. But you can buy separately the 17" wheels and tires that you like and use your 16" stock wheels for your winter set. Best of both worlds.
  • riezriez Posts: 2,361
    e210s... There are a lot of factors that go into the price of a used car. Mileage. Options. A low mile, high option car will cost a lot more than a high mile, low option car. Condition. Cars in good condition are worth more than cars in poor condition.

    Are you wanting to go BMW CPO or not? You'll pay more for CPO.

    You should check out BMW NA's CPO locator on their web site. Very user friendly. Plus look over the car ads for sale in newspapers. Used car pricing data can also be found here at Edmunds and on other web sites.

    Any used car is only worth what someone will sell it for and a buyer will buy it for. The prices are negotiable! Research and negotiate hard!!!
  • bmw323isbmw323is Posts: 410
    Low profile Y or Z rated summer tires have a softer rubber compund and will not last as long as all-season tires. However, they handle significantly better, stop better and usually are better in rain. My Z-rated Conti's on my 3 series have about 22,000 miles on them and I'm guessing I'll get 30,000 miles out of them. I've rotated them once, front to back, at about 15,000 miles.

    While summer tires will only last 60% of the mileage an all season tire will, they are safer, and more fun in all but snowy/icy driving conditions.
  • Hey,

    I just ordered my dream car. I put down a deposit for a black/black 530ia. Dealer invoice is $49970.00...Any idea what I should pay? Options include: Xenon Lights, Preminum Sound/DSP, cold weather, premium and sport package. Arrives early January...Thanks
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    Actually, $49,970 is the list (MSRP) price. The dealer wholesale (invoice) price is $45,745 (before any additional incentives the dealer receives). Forget about MSRP; try offering $1000-1500 over the wholesale price, and don't accept anything over $2000 more than wholesale, unless you live in the Bay Area (one of the few geographical areas I've heard prices are notoriously high amongst several dealers.)

    However, I'm confused: You've already put a deposit down without agreeing to a price? You should always do that first, unless the deposit is fully refundable.
  • Thanks for taking the time to share this information with me. I agree that the sub upgrade may be the place to start since have already "invested" over $1,000 in the upgraded stereo. I think I saw that sub on sale for $500 which would probably fit under the tree. I will keep you posted as to how this turns out.
  • Thanks for the reponse...again...I should have clarified my question. The car is still on the boat and won't arrive till next week in California. I just put down a deposit to hold that specific car and when it arrives in CO, then we will discuss price.
  • jb_shinjb_shin Posts: 357
    I have a 530i with SPP, and puchased a winter tire/wheel pkg from the local BMW dealer. It was a Dunlop Wintersport M2 with the BMW 16 inch alloy, which happened to be the same wheels on the non-SPP cars. Perhaps you can find those from people who have "upgraded" their wheels. I am sure many on roadfly.com has done that.
  • pen101pen101 Posts: 238
    My 2002MY 530i will be one year old in two weeks. It now has 12,500 miles on it. The service interval display shows one green lamp is left before servicing is required.

    I have been driving manual transmission cars almost exclusively since 1980. The BMW is the most difficult to drive smoothly of all the cars I owned (a Nissan and then 2 Toyota Supras). The problem is the 1-2 shift at medium speed. It takes work to be smooth. I can be silky smooth at both low acceleration and high acceleration, but not at medium speed without concentration. Maybe I am spoiled by the other cars.

    Over the last few weeks a momentary dead spot seems to be developing as I let out the clutch as I accelerate from a stand still and engage into first using a lower RPM start. It does not happen every time, but more so when the engine is cold and on low RPM starts. It is almost as if the clutch cable is rubbing against something momentarily, even though I know that cannot be the case. I cannot say if it is the clutch or the transmission gears that is causing this. The more I think about it, the more I wonder, could a gear tooth be chipped in the first gear? I am the only one that drives the car, and I do not remember ever missing a shift and grinding the gears. I also do not drive the car especially hard.

    Any suggestions before I have the car serviced?
  • Purchaesd a CPO 2001 530 a few weeks ago and notice some whitish/cloudy/foggy spots on the hood, dealer said never seen anything like it before and suspect the clear coat and told me bring it to the used car manager. Anybody out there get any idea?
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    We're on the same boat; my car's turning a year old next weekend, and I also have about 12,800 miles on it with one green light left. And I too have noticed (as most have) that the clutch operation is not as intuitive or easy to modulate as some others'.

    However, I don't experience the same symptoms you do with this "dead spot." I doubt you have a chipped tooth; those gears are made of forged steel and require a lot of force to simply break off. I have accidentally grinded my gears a couple of times, but shifts are still smooth and otherwise normal. And besides, those gears are rotating at several thousand RPM; I'm guessing a chipped gear tooth wouldn't manifest itself as a noticeable "dead spot."

    I'm curious to hear whether the dealer finds anything. For problems like this, I'm sure they'd have to be able to duplicate it fairly easily and consistently before they start tearing your tranny apart. So, you may have to wait until it gets worse (or more consistent) before getting them to notice. To duplicate the cold start, bring the car in the night before and drop it off, come in in the morning and ask to ride along with a technician so you can point it out. Good luck.
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    I experienced something similar with my car; when I got my windows tinted last year, they applied the tint with a water-soap mixture which got all over my trunk lid. They didn't bother rinsing it off with water, and driving home in the hot summer sun left these soapy/cloudy streaks on the trunk lid. I applied some 3M Imperial Hand Glaze to a good cotton applicator sponge, and rubbed in layer after layer until my shoulder almost dislocated. (HG is a relatively mild polish/glaze, so it's practically impossible to overdo it.) I finally got rid of nearly all of the streaks; under bright sun at certain angles you can still see a faint outline of them, but it's practically invisible unless you're really looking for it. See if the dealer can take an orbital buffer and polish the stuff out. Good luck.
  • metmdxmetmdx Posts: 255
    I've had by CPO '99 528i for approx 5 months now (and 9K miles) and absolutely love the car. Sure there are minor design issues (infamous cup holders and doors that don't automatically lock) but all in all a great vehicle.

    One issue has cropped up lately that will go back to the dealer on, but before I do, I want to find out if anyone else has experienced this. I've got a significant rattle coming from the right side (around where the airbag is located). Took everything out of the glovebox (what little fits in there) and still get this rattle. Didn't have it when I got the car, but has developed over the last month or so. Don't know if the cold weather has anything to do with it (NY metro area).

    Any clue from our knowledgable clientele???

    Any TSB's etc.?


    TIA,

    metmdx

  • pap5pap5 Posts: 144
    When I changed out my SP wheels/tires a couple of weeks ago for the winter tires, I checked the tread closely. At 17,000 miles, I'm guessing another ~7,500 miles to be down to the wear bars in semi-aggressive driving.
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    With respect to the auto door locks, the dealer can reprogram your car memory options for that preference. The charge should be minimal.

    As for the rattle, there are a couple of possibilities that come to mind:

    - Something loose under the seat: Move it all the way forward, up, and tilted forward, and inspect it for anything loose.

    - Seat belt mechanism: There's some service advisory about this, so have the dealer check it out.

    - Door seals: Apply WD-40 to a rag and coat the entire periphery of the seal with the stuff (good to do on all doors, by the way, once a year to help keep the rubber from drying and cracking.) Door seals usually sound more like a groaning noise over bumps, but I wouldn't put a rattle past them.

    Good luck.
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    You guys are having better luck than me: I'm just shy of 13k miles on my '02 530i sport with the Conti's, and the outer edge of all of my tires (especially the rears) are already fairly low. I'm guessing that by 15k I'll need new tires.
  • dzubadzuba Posts: 159
    So I guess with the Sport Package and some decent driving (15K - 20K) per year - that adds another $1000.00 per year to the upkeep of the car. Maybe I'll keep the winter tires on a bit longer!
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    Here's how I look at it:

    Sport package: An excellent set of performance tires (e.g. Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Position) go for $165, so with shipping and mounting/balancing that comes to $775. Depending on driving style and environmental factors, they'll last 15k-25k miles. Cost is 3.1 - 5.2 cents per mile.

    No sport package: An excellent set of high performance all-season tires (e.g. Dunlop SP Sport 5000 Asymmetrical) go for $105, so with shipping and mounting/balancing that comes to $540. Depending on driving style and environmental factors, they'll last 25k-40k miles. Cost is 1.4 - 2.2 cents per mile.

    To me it comes down to this: Am I willing to spend another 2-3 cents per mile for noticeably better steering response, noise comfort, handling, grip, and hydroplanning resistance? Yes, I am.
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    I was just reminded in another post: Have the dealer check the door latches as well.
  • riezriez Posts: 2,361
    snagiel... Surprised you put "noise comfort" as a plus for high performance tires. Always seemed to me that so many people using ultra-high or super-high performance tires tend to complain about the noise. The Yokohama Decibel AVS tires on my 540i6 have developed horrible noise level. Some surfaces are downright annoying. But I'm too cheap too replace them just yet and just turn up the stereo.
  • snagiel
    Thanks for the reply
    I agree with you on the sheepskins and brake dust covers. I was just hoping someone had a different idea to make those sport seats a little softer.
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    Well, perhaps I wasn't being fair. That jab was directed more at winter tires than all-seasons, since winters' typically blocky tread pattern are usually amongst the loudest tires. I don't have any evidence that suggests high performance tires are generally quieter than all-seasons, but that's been my personal (albeit limited) observation.

    Aside from rolling noise, however, is susceptability to adhesion-related squealing; all-seasons with less traction will break loose and howl easier than their high performance brethren.
  • Hi Everyone,

    Sorry to interrupt with non-technical questions but just returned from Munich where I did ED for my 530i on Monday and had a great experience.

    I feel bad for the customers of those BMWs
    (and Volvos and Saabs) of the "Tricolor" ship that sunk in the English Channel, spoke to my BMW dealer and mine wasn't on the boat, but apparently there were quite a few BMW custom orders and ED's on that ship headed to many BMW dealerships in USA.

    I'm told that if you are one of the unfortunate ones awaiting delivery that BMW will contact you directly and very soon.

    I hope that's very few of you on this board.

    LA Caroline
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,873
    A journalist with a major daily newspaper is looking to talk with people who bought entry-luxury cars having owned more-expensive luxury cars (e.g. traded 5-series for 3-series).
    If you have a story to share, please send your daytime contact information to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Friday, December 20, 2002. Please be sure to include the vehicle model names and model years. Thanks for your consideration!

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • pap5pap5 Posts: 144
    After admittedly limited use, I find that the Dunlop Winter Sport M2s are actually quieter than my regular Michelin Pilot Primacies. At 17K miles, the latter have started to develop a low howl at speed that I don't recall being there before. In addition to strong snow/slush performance, the M2s so far are impressive on dry pavement too, although I haven't cornered them anywhere near the limit. At this point, I definitely advocate the idea of speciality tires (performance tires for 3 seasons + winter tires) that collectively do everything well, rather than one set of all-seasons that do everything adequately, at best.

    Snagiel, re replacing the Contis at 17K: Sounds like a compound that doesn't emphasize tread life (what's the rating?) . . . or perhaps driving style? If only the outside edges are showing accelerated wear, it can't be inflation pressure, which I assume you're meticulous about anyway.
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    Thanks for the vote of confidence, but I don't measure tire pressure as often as I should; probably every 6-8 weeks. I'm actually approaching 13k miles, not 17k, but indeed the outer edge is worn down close to the minimum level on the rears (fronts are somewhat more respectable).

    Nevertheless, it may be on the low side, but certainly not out of the normal range with the Conti's, from what I've heard. They're only rated at 160, which is certainly low even amongst performance tires (Bridgestone S-03's are 220, I think).

    I suspect my driving style is mostly to blame; I don't abuse the car, but I certainly drive it in the spirited manner which it's designed for and seems to beg for.
  • Sorry it took so long to respond, been busy with comnpany, etc.

    It was a bad ignition switch according to my dealer, Shelly BMW (Southern California). I thought it was really strange so I questioned it because I didn't understand what the ignition switch had to do with the SRS system. The technician took his time and wrote the explanation in detail in the work order. I was very impressed. I don't have the work order with me now however if you are interested I can get it when I go home and let you know. My extended warranty company (1Source) paid for most of the repair, about $250, I had to pay a little over $100. 1Source came through for me again, I have been pleased with them so far.

    Spyderred,
  • With four winter tires similar to Blizzak, will I have difficulty driving in snow. I'm looking at a new 530 with auto (no sport) or a A6 3.0. I live in New England. thanks
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    All things being equal, the A6 will be more sure-footed in those dreaded Nor'eastahs. But with proper winter tires the RWD 530 should fare reasonably well in all but the worst conditions. If you don't have a backup Land Rover and must be in the office every day at 8:30, Quattro becomes a very compelling advantage, but otherwise I think you'd be satisfied with 5.
  • mschukarmschukar Posts: 351
    I would venture to say that a 530 w/Blizzak's would be better than 75% of the vehicles out there. It should handle and stop better (be safer) than any car or SUV with all season tires regardless of how many wheels are driven.

    -murray
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