BMW 5-Series Sedans

pat

A major newspaper is looking to interview folks who learned how to drive stick in their adulthood, and either fell in love or hated it. Also welcome is any input on why people love to drive stick, and any unusual anecdotes about how you learned etc.

Hope to hear from you before Feb 22 via the Talk to the Press discussion or at jfallon@edmunds.com with your thoughts and contact information.

Thanks as always,

Jeannine Fallon
PR Director, Edmunds.com

metmdx

Can anyone shed some insight on this dilemma. Recently test drove new 525. Was not impressed with hi-way performance. Since 530 is past budget constraints, am considering '99 CPO 528. Before I spend my and salesperson's time, is there a/any difference between the two. I know hp is approx. same. Don't know if difference in engines' performance is noticable.
Thanks in advance for the input.
metmdx

snagiel

Good question. Yes, there's a noticeable difference between the 528 and the 525 (especially since the torque spread--204 vs. 175--is more significant than the hp spread--190 vs. 185). But only you can answer whether it's powerful enough for you. When spending this much money, don't settle. If you're not happy with a 528, perhaps a slighly older CPO 540 might fit the bill? If I were you, I'd just get the 330i. It's very fast, extremely nimble, and nearly as big as the 5-series (only 2 cu. ft. less interior volume). It lacks some bells and whistles of the 5-series, granted, but it's fun as hell.

shipo

I had the opportunity to swap my 328i with another board members' 325i last November for a couple of days. Given what I had heard about the 2001 and later 2.5-liter mill, I was expecting to find that the 325i was actually a little faster than my car (given that the 325i did not have lots of luxury goodies {extra weight} that I have on my 328i).

The first thing I noticed was just how much more grunt my car had, especially in the lower RPM ranges. Having been used to my car, and given that the two cars are so alike, I kept expecting more acceleration for any given amount of pedal travel.

If you have the chance to drive the two back to back, I am absolutely sure you will like the acceleration of the 528i.

Best Regards,
Shipo

bschaefer

I looked at the 525 today. I liked the car, and they have one on the lot that fits what I am looking for. From what I am reading, it sounds like I should be looking at the 530 for more bang for the buck. True?

The offer was not great. I am getting hosed on a trade in (5K for a 96 Chrysler Town and Country), and they are knocking off only $808 off of the list price. Is there that great a demand on BMW that they won't deal off of invoice better?

cmr530i

I purchased my 530 from a dealer about 40 minutes of freeway driving away from where I live. I have gone to the local dealer(10 minutes away) for a few services; two signal lights replaced and the replacement of the aux. fan as per recall. I was able to get appointments for the lights the same day. However, when I called to make the fan appointment and was told it would take a few hours on a Saturday, I requested a loaner car. Let's just say that they did all they could to get me to bring the car in another time. I will definitely take my car back to the dealer I purchased from for my first big servicing. My dealer told me to contact him when the time came and he would set me up with a loaner. I would rather go the distance and be treated royally than be put off again.

metmdx

Thanks Shippo, snaigle.
Shippo - I hope your correlation in the 3 carries over to the 5. Not exactly the "scientific method", but I'm sure there's some similarity.

Snaigle - I have thought about going 540CPO also, but probably have to go back to '98 to be in the $$ range of budget. Having said that, if I'm going CPO, I really want to find LOW miles. It's just one of those things, that I can't bring myself to pay 35K for something with more than 25 clicks on it. As for the 330 suggestion: Thanks. But I've sat in the new 330 and I don't know who's tapemeasure they're using but it certainly feels alot smaller that a 5'er (elbows hitting doors, rear seat/head room, etc.). Well, it's a sunny Saturday....gotta get outside !
metmdx

john01

I agree. By going through the measurement on BMW website, 3 actually has a hair more leg room in the rear and just about equal in size as the 5. The 5 does have more width, about 1.5 inches, I think. However, when you sit it in, it feels much more than that and if you have to put a baby seat in there somewhere like us, the effect is even more dramatic. Numbers aside, it just FEELS roomier, and more comfortable.

A side note. We test drove E320 and no match there. Again, the exterior measurement is about the same as the 5, but it is a cavern inside, compared to the 5.

riez

metmdx... Are you wanting automatic or manual transmission? Personally, I couldn't imagine going automatic, but if automatic, then I would NOT go 525iA. Just too much weight and too much power sapping by the slushbox. 530iA would be the way to go. But the manual 525i is a pretty nice car. Did you test automatic and manuals of both?

I have two CPO BMWs. My loaded '98 540i 6-speed and my wife's loaded '00 323iA. I really enjoy them both, but absolutely love my 540iM. While the driving experience of each is great, the 540iM is magnificent. 540iM just seems so much more substantial then the 323iA. Even with the Premium Pkg in her 323iA, it just doesn't seem as luxurious or solid. I find both are roomy enough, inside and in trunk. Fine for us and our two kids.

Don't think you can find a low mile CPO 540iM in your price range. But you might find a 530iM in your price range. Have you checked out BMW NA's CPO locator on their web site? Strongly recommend it. Just make sure to expand your search far enough. I drove 590 miles to get the right 540iM and found my wife's 150 miles away.

No matter what you get, even 525iA, you won't go wrong. They are all great driving cars. Pleasures to drive. Fun and exciting. Enjoy looking for the right one. Research & do extensive test drives!!!!

sanand5

This fee which does vary from city to city is only significant these days now that we can actually deal on BMW's somewhat. When you are paying sticker, it just eats into dealer profit. I recently paid $2000 over invoice for a 530i and when I saw the $750 "MACO" charge on their invoice I thought it was another gimmick but my friend who worked at Momentum Porsche in Houston for 10 years and now has his own business tells me it is true and accurate.

So I went ahead and agreed on it. However, they also tried to stick me with another fee of $500 at the end which I successfully refused to pay. I don't remember what they called it but after mentioning its affect on my CSI I would be filling out later, they agreed to drop it.

shipo

You are correct, while what I did was not scientific; it was however, very convincing to me. Even though the 2.5 liter motor has a higher gear ration, the extra torque of my 2.8 liter motor provided noticeably faster acceleration, longer periods of acceleration between gear changes, much better flexibility driving in heavy traffic AND, oddly enough, better gas mileage.

As far as the correlation between a 3-Series and a 5-Series, both cars have the same engines (at least as far as the I6 engines are concerned), with the same transmission gearing and the same final drive gearing, the only real difference is that the 530i weighs 209 pounds more than the 330i (11 pounds more than a 330xi). In the grand scheme of things, that extra 209 pounds does not amount to much when it comes to noticeable acceleration.

Best Regards,
Shipo

snagiel

Almost correct: The 330 has a shorter final drive ratio (can't remember the exact numbers), which helps it accelerate faster than the 200 lb. weight advantage would suggest.

shipo

The 330i/530i have the same 2.93 final drive ratio, both the 325i and 525i have a 3.15 final drive ratio. The 2.93 of the 3.0 liter engine equates to a "Taller" ratio, which slows down acceleration, but yields better mileage. If the 330i/530i had the 3.15, they would be even faster.

Best Regards,
Shipo

snagiel

You're right...I was remembering the number not from the 330i, but the 330xi (which is 3.07). I was trying (in vain) to figure out how C&D tested the 330xi with a 0-60 time of 5.7 seconds (a few months back tested against the S4 and WRX), and yet a couple months later tested a 330i as 6.4 seconds 0-60. I can't imagine the former's AWD made enough of a difference to overcome that 200 pound weight disadvantage and still shave off 0.7 second off 0-60. Even with the slighly shorter gearing, it doesn't add up. Maybe they were testing it downhill...

shipo

Given that all current production BMWs available in the US are normally aspirated, engine output is subject to the whims of Mother Nature, it is not surprising that a 330xi tested in the cold dense air of winter put out significantly more power than a 330i tested in the hot humid air of summer. In fact, given extremes of conditions, I would not be surprised if the 3.0-Liter engine could vary by as much as 10% (or more) over the course of a year. When you look at a magazine review, cars evaluated within a single test will yield valid results regarding their relative times, however, given that the magazines do not have controlled environments for lab testing, the numbers are basically worthless beyond the scope of a single test.

Ever wonder why a car can be reviewed by 5 publications over the course of a year and the 0-60 times vary by 1.5 seconds or more? Me too. Driver technique can only explain away part of the difference; it is my assertion that the environment may well be the rest of the difference.

Best Regards,
Shipo

kingdave

Thinking of getting rid of my '91 4Runner to get a 1989 or 90 5-series. Any insights as to things to watch out for? Is the Total Cost of Ownership just through the roof on these 'older' models? Thanks much.

sjgeller1

Ive just started looking for a car to replace my I30 when it comes off lease. After reading the articles in this forum and the Consumer Reports article, Im convinced that the 530i is the best car for me. But Im confused, Ive always heard that front wheel drive is best for driving in wet or snowy conditions. Yet this car was given high marks for control in bad weather. Can someone clear this up for me.

Thanks, Steve

acarrasc

What are the annual maintenance costs on a 5 series
driven approx. 12-15k miles/yr? Can some of it be
done by the owner?

davv62

Generally, front wheel drive is better in the snow. However, I took my 2001 BMW 530 to Vermont in a snowstorm last April and had no problem.

Getting the sport package can give you a problem driving in the snow if you're not using the right tires. You need to either get (1) winter tires and summer tires, and change them in the fall and spring; or (2) good all-season tires. Some people try to use the summer tires in the snow with the sport tires, and it's a disaster.

john01

Front wheel drive cars are better in general in inclement weather due to the fact that the engine sits on top of the driving/steering wheels to give it more bite. In the case of rear wheel drive, the driving wheels are in the rear where there aren't that much weight pushing down on them. Even with almost 50:50 ratio BMWs enjoy, it is less weight than the comparable FWD cars. This is the reason why some people carry some "weight" in their trunk in those weather conditions. With electronic helpers, modern cars do make up some, but nothing like giving good contact patch.

Before FWD cars were popularized, most cars were RWD, and they did fine, by using snow tires, chains, and perhaps better driving technique. Not to generalize drivers on the road these days, but it just seems that less and less people take driving very seriously despite the potential danger involved.

Like the post above says, appropriate set of tires will get you through in most situations even in RWD cars.

jwilson1

Where I was raised in the Midwest, part of almost every young person's driver's ed, arranged by school and poor ol' dad, took place on a frozen lake. Of course the first things we all experienced was spinning out and 'free'-braking, or braking without any response from the car. Those who learned to drive there also learned to avoid those embarrassments more than once in awhile and were soon able to stop, start, and turn. It's a skill, but hardly on a par with surgery.

We even had "races" with street tires! One lap around a course; stay on the c ourse, and don't spin out. No prize, just ego.

There is plenty of snow and ice where I live in New England, and plenty of both younger and unskilled drivers. I'm constantly amazed at the trouble clueless people can get themselves into .. and the trouble they cause for the rest of us. The local driving schools have 'skid pads' which teach part of the experience, what it feels like when you screw up. Unfortunately, there isn't anyone teaching how to NOT screw up.

So: yeah, when you get your BMW, if you live in an area that experiences ice storms, snow storms, etc., either stay home when it's slick (especially at night with black ice), or have the chauffeur change your tires everytime a storm is scheduled, or get a set of good snows on the car at the beginning of the snow season, take them off at the end of the snow season, leave a lot of space between you and other cars, and slow down well before you need to stop.

That way you'll have your BMW around when the weather thaws and you change back to fun tires. The weather ain't gonna switch to tropical just because you bought a $50k car and are in denial. Suck it up, bucko.

Take care.
Joe W.

riez

acarrasc... Think your question is a bit too broad and general. Do you mean of a brand new car? 5-year-old car? 10-yr-old car? 1st year's ownership? First 5-years ownership? First 10 years?

Which 5 Series are you talking about? 540iM? 540iA? 530iM? 530iA? 525iM? 525iA? M5?

Keep in mind that BMWs have "free" maintenance for 3 yr/36K miles and you can buy an extension for 1 more yr, but I forget if miles are extended to 48K or 50K. This keeps down the annual maintenance costs for first 3 years, and possibly 4th.

Do you plan on following the manufacturer's schedule or follow your own? Some people still change their oil every 3K or 5K miles. Some rotate tires.

Read Consumer Reports. Also check out Intellichoice. Intellichoice publishes data on 5-yr ownership costs.

metmdx

Thanks for all the input. It amazes me how much info (both subjective and technial)can be gleaned from these boards. Found 2 '99CPO 540ia's in my neck of the woods today (but alas the dealers are closed on Sundays) so I'll have to do some investigating during the week. They have 21-28k on them and asking 38.7 to 39.9. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
metmdx

riez

metmdx... Your post above is titled with CPO 528i but then you talk about 540iA. There is a huge difference between 528i and 540iA.

I'm a big fan of 540iM. Couldn't imagine having all that power and such a fine chassis and then have a slushbox. But if you really have to have slushbox, I'd encourage you to find a 540iA with Sport Pkg. Is a much more sporting car with the Sport Pkg.

Check out their options. Make sure to run CarFax Report on their VINs. Take 'em for a test drive. Have some fun! 'cause if you can't enjoy the buying part, you're missin' somethin' important.

acarrasc

riez thanks for your inputs. We are looking at buying a 525ia or 325ia new and
wanted to get an understanding of what amount of out of pocket expenses one
can expect if the recommended scheduled maintenance is followed taking into
account that for the first 3 yrs. BMW covers this. So in reality what on avg. would
it cost in yrs. 4-10? thanks.

riez

acarrasc... Have you looked at Intellichoice? And other sites that have info on long-term ownership costs.

Don't forget to factor in taxes, car registration, and insurance. These can be substantial initially and over 10 years.

I'm assuming you are now talkin' 'bout buyin' a NEW 325iA or 525iA? Or are you lookin' for CPO? If CPO, what year?

Since the current E39 and E46 525iA and 325iA use the SAME engine and automatic transmission, guessing their maintenance schedules will be very similar.

acarrasc

riez, thanks for the advice. We will check out Intellichoice. And you are
right, we are considering buying a new 325/525. I've already figured insurance
and registration into the cost. As far as taxes that's an initial cost only as
far as I know.

habitat1

acarrasc,

I asked that very question late last fall of my friendly BMW service manager. He moved over to the BMW side of my local dealership from having been on their Nissan side for the past several years. I currently own a 1995 Nissan Maxima that, over the past 7 1/2 years and 121,000 miles, has cost me a grand total of $3,887.44 in maintenace, service and repairs. This includes two sets of new tires, all routine 7,500 mile interval services and oil changes every 4,000 miles.

I was interested on how the 530i or 540i would stack up. The BMW service manager is intimately familiar with my Maxima and my driving habits. He estimated that the 530i would be about twice as expensive as the Maxima and the 540i would be another 20-30% more expensive than the 530i over 8 years/120k miles. In other words, somewhere in the vicinity of $8,000 to $10,000 total. The 3 year/36k mile included service offsets some maintenance costs in the first few years, but not as much as BMW would have you believe. Here are the big items that make the 5-series more expensive than the Maxima, according to my service manager:

Tires: I would go with the sport package on the 5-series. He said figure replacing at least every 35k miles on a 530, slightly more often on the 540i. So, for 120k miles, figure 4 sets at $600-800k per set, vs. 2 sets @ $440k on the Maxima. There's a $2,000+ difference alone. You can save a significant amount by not going with the sport package, if the added performance is not that important to you. For me, it was.

Brakes: Figure replacing pads every 30k to 40k for mostly highway driving, rotors every other time. Over 120k miles, brakes and rotors on a 530i would easily run somewhere in the $1,000 to $1,500 range. Again, a 540i is likely to be a bit more, since it is heavier and burns through brakes and rotors a bit more frequently.

Major interval routine services after 36k miles on a 5-series are roughly 1.5x to 2.0x the Maxima (the higher number being the 540i as you get into the 90-120k intervals).

Clutch: 530i 5-speed clutch should last 120k+. 540i 6-speed has had mixed reviews. Many last the life of the car, but some have been replaced twice in 100k miles. $1,000+ ticket item.

Electronics / Miscellaneous: My service manager suggested "off the record" that I budget $500-$1,000 for a one time repair sometime during the life of the car (120k miles). I'm guessing this was for his own protection - he knows that I have had 0 unscheduled maintenance / repairs on the Maxima and didn't want me to get upset at him if something came up.

The bottom line, if you are looking to keep a 5-series for 7-10 years @ 15k miles per year, my service manager suggested budgeting $1,000 to $1,200 per year for maintenance on a 525/530 and $1,200 to $1,500 for a 540i. The first three years should be quite a bit less. And, although this is a lot more than the roughly $500 per year I've spent since 1995 on my Maxima, I do not consider it unreasonable. After all, it represents an upgrade to perhaps the best handling and performing sedan available at any price. And, from what I can tell, it is in line with or less than what one would pay in maintenance for a Mercedes E-class, Audi A6 or comparable European sedan.

P.S. I elected to keep my Maxima for another year or two and got a Honda S2000 as a fun car. This "fun" will cost me about $700 per 8-10k miles in tires alone. Everything has it's price.

metmdx

Riez -
My original premise was new 530 was out of price range. Was not enthused with 525 on hi-way. Thought maybe CPO 528 was suitable alternative. Then ran across 2 '99 CPO 540's this weekend in the 38-39 dealer asking range, so was considering that option. The blue one of them is already sold and I'm not a fan of Black (I'm probably 1 in a million - or so my mother told me). Anyway I think you get my dilemma. Yes, I must go slushbox (I can drive manual), but refuse to do so in stop/go - commuter traffic in NY area. I don't care what anybody says, driving manual is not fun in this environment!
regards,
metmdx

cmr530i

My 2001 530i was rearended this morning while sitting at a red light! Stupid driver was giving her baby something and she forgot to brake. Her SUV slid right into my car. My car has some bumper gouges and scratches and the body has two dents. Has anybody in SoCal used the body shop near Center BMW or New Tech Body Shop in Glendale area? These places were recommended by my dealer. Thanks for any info.
Sick in SoCal,
cmr530i

habitat1

Haven't been following your discussions, but my thoughts anyway.

I have all but decided to upgrade my 540i 6-speed to an M5, based upon a sweetheart deal my dealer is willing to give me. Frankly, I am surprised at how much I can get for my 540i with 35k miles. Too much, if you really look at the long term economics (but I'm not complaining!!).

Personally, if I were trying to decide between a new 2002 530i and CPO 1999/2000 540i, and total ownership costs were a significant factor, I'd be very careful of looking solely at the up front purchase price. A new 530i has little if any out of pocket maintenance costs in the first 3 years/36k. A 540i just coming off the covered maintenance plan is going to cost you quite a bit more over the next 3 years. As you get into years 4-6 (or 6-8 for the 540i), the difference will grow significantly. I actually expect to spend less over the next 3-5 years in maintaining a new M5 than whoever buys my "pristine" 2000 540i 6-speed will spend.

Don't get me wrong, I really like the added power of an 8-cylinder BMW. However, on a total ownership cost basis, I think a new 530i will beat a 3-year old 540i every time. If you can get a high quality low milage 1999/2000 540i for $30k, then I would go for it. But at close to $40k, I would have my reservations.

Finally, if you aren't satisfied with the new 525i, you probably won't be with the old 528i. The 525i and 528i are relatively close in performance, at least with 5-speeds. The 530i sits mid way between the old 528i and 540i, based upon my test drives.

Good luck.

cdnpinhead

certainly the most useful treatise on real-world maintenance/reliability that I've read in three years anywhere in Edmunds. Thank you.

Opinions are (sometimes) interesting. Facts matter, especially over a meaningful time and mileage span.

In God We Trust.

All others bring data.

nyccarguy

Your post regarding maintenance of a 5 series was extremely informative. I just have a question regarding the life of your tires as claimed by your service rep. He says you can get 35,000 miles from the Z Rated tires on the SP equipped 5 series? Given the weight of the 5 Series and "your driving style (nothing wrong with it, but I assume you're a performance oriented driver)," I can't see a set of Z rated tires lasting more than 20,000 miles (maybe 25,000 if you really push them). At 35,000 miles on Z rated performance tires, I'd think you'd be driving on chords. But I could be wrong.

div2

We've had our 1997 CPO 528iA for almost one year and 20000 miles. The beast now has 67000 miles on it, so here are the gory details:

Warranty visits- 3 at $50 per visit; all cooling system related. t-stat, t-stat housing, and water pump. In my experience BMW water pumps rarely last more than 70000 miles, so no big surprises here.

Service Visits- 3.
1.Switch to Mobil 1 15W-50 at purchase $61
2.Oil Service (DIY) $41
3.Inspection II $441 Included in this price were: front pads($75), a tie rod($56) and an alignment($45). I did not replace the microfilters but I did replace the fuel filter($24)

Odds and Ends- I also replaced a few minor parts myself: Fog lamp(road debris)$95, 2 tail lamp bulbs $1, 1 low beam bulb $16, 1 remote battery $6, 1 jack pad $6, and 1 radiator cap $7.

Component Life-
Brake pads/rotors: Front 22000-30000 miles depending on driving style. Rears should last about double that. Rotors should(and do) last through two sets of pads.
Tires: The OEM Michelins look to be good for at least 70000 miles, although the sled is currently fitted with Artic Alpines mounted on steel wheels and sporting OEM wheel covers($642).

Oil Consumption- No oil added between 9000 mile change intervals

Fuel Economy- 22.5 mpg average, up to 28 mpg on extended highway jaunts.

This 5er is primarily driven by my wife and also serves as our long distance tourer. Thus, I'm not concerned by the lack of sport suspension(though I'll probably fit Bilstein HDs when the OEM shocks die). I might also get a Shark Injector when the warranty runs out. As it sits, it's a practical family car with dynamic capabilities that 98% of the driving public are unable to exploit. I find the running costs to be very reasonable. If it was MY regular driver I would want a bit more aggressive tuning, but that's why I have the Club Sport track rat. Anyway, Im saving up for a 4.6is..:)

ggoudeli1

I took in my 530 for service b/c I hit the one year ownership mark (~9,500 miles). They performed an oil change and they reset the service indicator. My sense was that my car would still have to go in when I got to the red light indicator, but instead with the reset, I probably won't be going back until another year. Anyone else with this experience? Is the first service just an oil change?

Thanks in advance.

George

chesdin4

George, I was told the same thing as you. My 530 is 10 months old and has 7700 miles and I still get 3 green bars.

Brought it in for the fan recall recently, and the service advisor said they'd do the oil change free at 1 yr and reset the light. The inspection I comes at no later than two years no matter what the light says.

hnn

cmr530i,
I am sorry to hear your accident. My prev. 540i got rear-ended badly before last Christmas and I am still going to the physical therapy as of now. I hope you feel OK and find a good body shop to fix your car. I ended up traded my 2001 540i in for a 2002 530i. Hnn

habitat1

I also thought 35k miles was a high estimate by my service manager for the 530i sport "Z" rated tires. However, he insists they can be rotated front to back, since they are the same size.(Although, I've seen other posts here claiming the owners manual recommends against any tire rotation). The 540i sport tires cannot be rotated because of wider rears.

Also, I do a lot of highway driving (80%) on relatively good roads. Nonetheless, I estimated 4 sets in 120k miles (30k per set) and guess that the average driver with more city driving would get 20-25k at best for the 530i sport. I'll let you know how I do with my Honda S2000. Supposedly, some drivers get less miles out of their tires than they do out of a Mobil 1 oil change.

nyccarguy

numerous other posts that BMW recommends not rotating the tires.

hangler

Hello all

My 2001 525i with sports package came with the OEM Continental tires 234/45/17

I just replaced them at 21K miles, due to tread wear, but more importantly, they got SOOO noisy from tire/road noise

I replaced them with Yokohama AVS Sports, and these are really really good tires... great performance and very quiet.. a tad expensive, but tires have always been very important to me (it's the only thing touching the road)

Anyway, I just wanted to confirm what others are saying about getting 20-25k miles from the SP OEM tires...

22sub

does anyone have an idea of what a 3-yr lease on a 530 would run me, both up-front as well as monthly? thanks for any advice.

jwilson1

Be sure to get them checked if they have been getting noisier. I mention it because I was once surprised to find that a set of tires that still looked good and had plenty of mileage left on the treadwear guarantee still were so worn that the belts were in danger of rupture.

Take care.
Joe W.

millerro3

I'm really shooting in the dark here, in regards to what you want, but here goes...

2002 BMW 530i
steptronic, premium, sport, cold weather

msrp $47570 cap cost based on $2000 over invoice
cap cost $45760

36 mo/15k per year=$630.60/mo

lease rate .00205
residual 60%

upfront will vary, but the definites are 630 1st mo., 525 acquisition fee, 650 security deposit. In the #'s above, tax must be added, as well as the dealer doc fee and registraion, which is where you may see varying figures.

Good Luck

Rob

hnn

Updated/possbile pictures of the redesigned 5 series for 2004?...

http://www.bmw2002.co.uk/news.htm

riez

Realized there is some published longitudinal maintenance cost data.

1. April 1998 Car & Driver Long-Term (40,000 miles) 1997 BMW 540iM wrap up. They had 3 scheduled and 3 unscheduled service & repair stops. Total service costs were $599. Their footnote makes clear that this amount would change in the then current MY, 1998, due to the then new "free" 3 yr/36K mile scheduled maintenance. Total "normal wear" costs were $2,575. This included a clutch failure at 30,377 miles ($1,653) and a warped flywheel. They used $2,594 of gas at $1.22/g (2,126 gals or 18.81 mpg overall). They did have some significant repairs covered under warranty ($370 failed wheel bearing, $70 trunk release button, $1,450 catalytic converter, $650 failed window module, motor & regulator, cup holder, and radio knob).

C&D's "life expectancies" extrapolated or achieved in their 40K test: 35,000 miles for tires, 45,000 miles for front brake pads, and 45,000 miles for rear brake pads.

2. May 1999 Motor Trend Long-term Wrap Up (16,152 miles) of their '97 540iM: Used 1125 gals fuel costing $1,384 for only 14.3 mpg. They spent $125.49 total maintenance. Used 1 quart of oil. They list "problem areas" as power windows, rear cupholder, oil pan gasket, trunk seal, and shift knob.

MT's detailed report also includes their owners' survey results. Shows problem areas reported, likes & dislikes, sales & service practices, and would they buy/recommend buying. Only 3.5 percent of survey respondents reported problem. Big areas were power windows, radio controls, squeaky door seals, and sticky latches.

I'd encourage anyone to get a copy of each and enjoy reading.

cmr530i

Thanks for the sympathetic words. You must have been hit very hard in your 540. Luckily my impact was not hard. Got an estimate today at just under $800. It can be repaired in 3-4 days. I'm curious. Why did you change models from a 540 to a 530 after your accident?

metmdx

for the info. It continues to amaze me the volume of posts of a technical analysis nature (as opposed to "my car's better than your car because I say so"). The only way i can resolve this is to go drive one, now that I have opposing opinions on the 528 (Shippo thinks I'll like it). BTW, I'm looking at a automatic (yeah, I know) but I can't justify driving a standard (even though I can) in the Metro NY area - It's just not fun to me regardless of whether you're driving a VW (Beetle) or a BMW.
regards,
metmdx

22sub

rob,
thanks so much. that's exactly what i was curious about. i've always owned my cars - mostly because i had the perception that leasing was throwing away $$, but i've recently heard some very good arguments in favor of leasing from friends in the finance business. your brief message was extremely informative. when i'm ready to pull the trigger on a new car, leasing is going to be a serious consideration. cheers,
doug

millerro3

glad I was able to help!

Good Luck when the time comes around!

Rob

jim52

I see that you work for a BMW dealership. If you don't mind, would you help me to determine a good range of possible purchase prices for a 2002 530? For example, what is the lowest, realistic, amount that I can hope to pay over invoice (I'm talking about Base+options+destination - not including adversising and other prep fees) and what is the most, that I should pay and still feel that I got a fair deal? I have my own thoughts but would value your perspective.