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BMW 5-Series Sedans

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Comments

  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,379
    Now that's the trouble with modern cars, the tires are louder than the motor, another advantage for old-fashioned skinny tires which are way more fun to drive on because they'll let go if you lean on 'em. ;)
  • gardisgardis Posts: 185
    Yes, I have a 2007 530i, and I don't believe it's a fault. I have the same problem. The window design is such that if it's raining and you use the wipers especially, that water sloshes over the left side of the windshield and drips into the window controls. Nothing can be done I don't think. I simply keep the windows closed when it's raining, or I keep them open just slightly so no water comes in. I hope that's my biggest problem with the car, which I love.
  • I have a 2007 535i and was stunned to find out that somehow, my rear door had been cracked - a big crack from font to back. Evidently the door isn't metal - it's plastic. What the heck? Not sure what to do with it. I called a body shop and they didn't believe me. Do they sell replacement plastic "shells"? :mad:
  • Can anyone tell me what came on their 2009 / 2010 5 series as an OEM tire?
    Thanks
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,379
    I'm surprised to hear that but they need to take the weight out of cars so we'll likely seemore plastic body components. The good news is that it's probably easier and cheaper to replace than a steel part, I'm sure you can get a replacement from a dealer or independent supplier.

    I was recently surprised when I knocked off the outer housing of my right side mirror. It's metal, I expected plastic! ('00 528iA).
  • sergeymsergeym Posts: 262
    POS Continentals. Have not seen such hard and noisy tires ever. Thorougly enjoing my winter Michelin Alpine 3s now.
  • Some have goodyears
  • I was completely wrong about the doors being plastic. Took it in to a body shop to have it looked at and they said that it was putty that had cracked. It must have had some prior damage. I bought it Certified Pre-Owned from a dealership, and the BMW dealership took responsibility for the whole repair for me. Now that's service! And that's why I'm BMW Forever!
  • I have had my 2003 530i in for service regarding a random flashing oil pressure indicator light. On two occassions a message was flashed to the message center on the instrument panel; STOP: Low Oil Pressure: Add Oil Immediately (or to that effect). BMW service has replaced a sending sensor and a receiving sensor, but the problem persists. I have spent $500 plus so far ... I am not sure that the dealer service advisor wants to fix this problem or knows what to do. The service advisor has assured me there is no 'real' oil pressure problem, but my concern is how would they know. Does anyone in this forum have any advice or suggestions? I want to sell the vehicle, but how do I do that with this kind or indicator.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    It is hard to tell from reading your message what is really going on with your car. FWIW, there are TWO oil related messages that your car can generated, 1) Low Oil Level, and 2) Low Oil Pressure. If you have a low level message, add oil, if you have a low pressure message, adding oil will not help at all (unless of course you're getting the low level message as well).
  • I think that is the problem, the computer is generating two different messages. one to add oil (oil is at the appropriate level) and the other is low oil pressure. BMW service has replaced two sensors (sending and receiving), but the problem persists. Assuming that was done correctly, any other ideas that would create an error message of that nature?
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    Well, the oil pump could just be bad, and not the sensor. Or, if you are really driving hard, all the oil is pooling outside of the oil pickup and starving it on a really high-g turn. Or, the line to the sensor is plugged with crud (shouldn't happen, but you never know). The OBD connector probably can provide the oil pressure reading, which may be a good place to start, or for test purposes, install a calibrated meter to verify what the pressure really is.
  • Can someone offer advice? My car is at the dealer and was informed that I need to change my front brakes and front left caliper (causing vibration at any speed). Total cost is around $1500! I have an 2003 E39 with 102K miles. I know this is an expensive service, but is this usually this high? Can I only change the left caliper instead of both as dealer is recommending?
  • That's why they say BMW stands for "Bring my wallet"
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,379
    Can someone offer advice?

    Do not go to the dealer for service! There are good independent BMW repair shops all over America that will do good work on your car for a fraction of dealer rates.

    Go to www.bimrs.org to find one near you.
    There's no way I could afford to run an old E39 paying dealer repair costs. They're sturdy cars but repairs aren't cheap.
  • Thanks andys120!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    A few points:

    - Why are they recommending the caliper? The only reason I can think of is if it is leaking or if you've failed to have the brake fluid flushed every 24 months and rust had formed on the inner side of the piston.

    - Servicing the brakes (i.e. new pads, rotors and sensors) on the E39 is one of the easiest brake jobs on the planet to perform.

    - New pads, rotors and sensors shouldn't run more than $150 per axle for premium quality parts, and depending upon where you buy them, I've seen that price down near $100.

    - As has already been mentioned, lose the dealer and find yourself a good independent, errr, that is if you aren't inclined to do the job yourself (see my second point).

    Keep us posted.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • the dealer says he will make it good, but still no answers as to what the real problem is... the car is not driven hard, but the indicator light tends to come on when the car is braked to a stop... I suppose the g-force of the stop could pull any 'pooled' oil away from the pump and or sensors. But I would think that would be a conditioni in all cars. I think all sensors are new at this point, but the condition persists. We'l see what the developments are with Wednesday's appt. Dealer has been great, but we are both losing our patience! Thanks of the ideas, I'll pass them on.
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    Unless your oil level is quite low, it takes a lot of high-G maneuvers to starve the engine of oil. Race cars often use a dry sump oil system to preclude that from happening, and it is a rare street car that uses that technology or needs it. The low oil pressure sensor could be blocked up with crud, but that rarely happens if you follow the manufacturer's change and quality guidelines. On many cars, you can get an actual real-time oil pressure reading with an OBD test tool. Good luck, hopefully, it is a simple fix, and is in the montoring circuit, and not an engine fault. A bad ground or electrical connection could cause this, either in the dash, or in the engine compartment. They can sometimes be a pain to isolate. Corrosion on a connector or a connector that is not fully seated could do it too.
  • Shipo - Thanks for the advice. Apparently the caliper was "wrapped"(?) and was causing my steering to vibrated a lot. I just moved here (MA) from the west coast and didn't really have time to search for a good shop... In any case, I got it fix now, but certainly will not go back specially to this dealer - Gallery BMW of Norwood MA. Not to mention poor service.
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