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Lexus LS 400/LS 430

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Comments

  • For newer vehicles, CPO is $3000 out the window. That is typical of what the price for CPO relative to a non-Lexus dealership would charge. The powertrain warranty of a Lexus is 6/70000 miles, while CPO is 3/100,000 from time of purchase or total vehicle mile. This means that if you get a 2006 vehicle, the bumper-to-bumper is still good for 4/50000, so if miileage is low, you're really only getting ONE more year of coverage, but vehicle has close to 50K, then you'll get up to 100K.

    For your choice of 2002, the factory warranty are done, so getting a CPO MIGHT be considered for peace of mind, but I don't believe anything $3000 worth is going to fail within the 100K mark.

    As for maintenance, the major thing (spark plugs, timing belt, etc.) are good until 100K so you're good. Depending on if you're a DIY person or not, but the typicals are below listing in DIY and the dealership:

    Oil change - $30 synthetic / $150 regular (I would say every 5000 miles)
    Air filter - $30 / $75 (every 15-20K)
    Brakes - front $80 / $400 : back $80 / $400 (I've found the OEM are good for 40K or so, without driving aggressively)
    Cabin filter - $32 / $50 (every 20K)

    I didn't list transmission, because they're actually "life time" fluids meaning that changing not necessary until much older in miles, but I'd change them no less than 50K given it's only fluids. DIY $30, dealer $160 including rear differentail. I also did not list things like wipers which anyone can easily change themselves.

    Can't think of anything else under normal maintenance.
  • cneumancneuman Posts: 55
    I have a 2002 LS, which I've had for two years and I also bought an extended warranty for $1800. It has definitely been worth the cost and paid for itself. I would have to go back through my receipts (things which were paid for through the warranty), to give specific details. It is a wonderful car, but things can and do go wrong with any make or model. I would not be w/o a warranty as long as one is reasonably available.

    Good luck....cn
  • This is correct. I have a 2004 LS 430 Ultra and I had this "Check S/T Lock" message where the key would not turn as well. Basically when the ignition is turned, the steering wheel comes out and sort of unlocks. At that time turn the steering wheel left or right and simultaneously turn the ignition. If the Steering wheel does not come out far enough, use the knob on the steering column to adjust the steering wheel out and down. Then turn the steering wheel right or left and turn the ignition at the same time.

    One thing I noticed is that the tension or torque on the front wheels does not just have to be when the wheels are turned on your parked car. I had this happen when I was parked straight on an incline. Must be the tension on the wheels thing.

    This is a great message board....it really helped me out of this bind.
  • I have smart access. I had a remote start installed in my 2004 LS430. When I remote start, I get the S/T lock message. Once I put the key in and turn the ignition, the message wont clear. I end up having to shut the remote start down and then restart the car with or without the key. I'm looking to find a solution to the S/T lock message when I remote start the car. The installer was unable to figure out how to eliminate the S/T lock message. I have the benefit of having the remote start function for a/c or heat, but I would like to be able to get in turn the key, step on brake and just drive off. Anybody have any suggestions?
  • I have a 2003 LS430 and the subwoofer is buzzing. Replacement is $400, (just for the speaker w/o installation). Is there an aftermarket subwoofer that might be more durable?

    Thanks
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Buzzing as in "fuzz" along with musical notes or buzzing as in constant.

    In the latter case the speaker itsself is not the problem.

    More durable subwoofer...??

    Not if you play it so loud it irritates the passengers.....
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    .....in a car two blocks away.

    Otherwise almost any aftermarket subwoofer will suffice.
  • Thanks for the reply. Found a cheap and easy solution on the Lexus Owners Club website.

    The problem is usually caused by a slight tear in the foam surrounding the speaker cone. Remove the speaker grill, lay a bead of hot glue around the perimeter of the foam where it attaches to the metal frame, (or where the foam attaches to the speaker cone if that is where the tear is). Let it dry and you are done. Cost: less than $10.00, Time: 10 minutes including drying time. Buzzing is now gone. Lesson learned on volume level.

    Considering the cost to buy a new subwoofer, ($400.00) plus installation, (cost unknown but I understand that the rear seat needs to be removed so it will be at least as much as the speaker) I figure I am ahead of the game even if the fix only last a few years.

    Hope this helps someone else.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Cost to buy...

    Maybe $50, maybe $100, tops, and it can be installed, easily and quickly from inside the trunk.
  • pietwopietwo Posts: 6
    I've averaged about 1K a month in mileage since I bought my 2005 LS430 in Dec. 2005. I wasn't particularly happy with the OEM Dunlop 5000's which had issues such as hydroplaning, thumping and a short tread life. I wouldn't buy them again. I thought I had standard wheels and tires but now find I have a low profile tire on an 18-in. rim (245R/45R18) and everything I've seen so far are "performance tires." The question is whether anyone knows of a "less sophisticated," run of the mile non-hydroplanning tire for this rim; absent that, I be interested knowing what tires others chose as replacements and for what reasons.
  • highrisehighrise Posts: 4
    I own a 2005 LS430 that I purchased in May of '05. It has 37K miles on it and is in pristine condition and I want to keep it that way. I recently purchased a second vehicle to use as my "daily driver" (a smart fortwo) and use it almost exclusively. I plan to keep the Lexus as my "real" and have been driving it to work about once every two weeks, about 10 miles round trip. How frequently should I be driving it to keep all the seals, etc. in proper condition? Your thoughts?
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,286
    TireRack is a good source of tires. Here are 85 tire choices from them in the size 245/45R18:

    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compare1.jsp?sortValue=1&filterType=all&resultsNum- - - berSelected=Y&displayResults=85&compare=true&compareList=&RunFlat=All&goWhere=%2- - - 52Ftires%252FCompare1.jsp&sortCode=&width=245%2F&ratio=45&diameter=18&startIndex- - - =0

    I still have the original tires but I will probably consider one of the several Michelin choices as replacements. For each tire, there are lots of user reviews as well on that website. Happy Hunting :)
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,286
    Once every two weeks should be fine. Since 10 miles is still a relatively short trip, so keep on top of regular oil changes. I would suggest no more than 3k miles if using regular oil, or no more than 5k if using synthetic oil. Always use a good quality filter. If you have Smart Key, you may want to use a battery tender to prolong the life of the battery. Over the long run, you may want to replace the timing belt according to years and not miles. I would also suggest having the brake fluid replaced every two years and the coolant every four.

    Even if you do not listen to me, this car is very well engineered and can take a lot of service use without a problem. You certainly can look forward to a long and generally good ownership experience.
  • highrisehighrise Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice vcheng. I'll plan on changing the oil according to dates rather than mileage too. So far this car has been flawless and has never had a reason to go in for service other than regularly scheduled maintenance at the dealership. I'm looking forward to enjoying many years of pleasure from it.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    225,000 miles on our '95 and it appears I need a passenger side catalytic converter.

    New spark plugs, new downstream O2 sensor yet code persists.

    I can buy new one, direct fit/bolt up, on Ebay for $120 to $150, anyone used one of these...??

    Price seems to low....
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,286
    What is(are) the code(s)?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    P0430

    Low catalyst efficiency bank #2.

    I've been assuming the documents are correct and bank 2 is the US passenger side.

    I thought the catalyst was going to be extraordinarily expensive (not to mention WORK..!) so after oil & filter(air & oil) change, MAF inspection/cleaning, I when for the O2 sensor and spark plugs first. Looks as if it actually is the converter.
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,286
    I think I agree with your strategy.

    If you are keeping the car, an OEM catalytic converter might be the way to go, but probably not worth it. How is the rest of the car in terms of condition?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Beautiful, excellent, drives like new but with just a wee bit of brief smoking out the exhaust upon WOT.

    OEM would be about $800 DIY.
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,286
    The wee bit of smoke might be the valve stem seals and that job can wait, but it may be that the low level of oil in the exhaust that may be causing the catalytic converter problems. What do the spark plugs look like on both the sides of the V8?

    Might I suggest looking into that first before going the OEM route? Or just do a cheap generic one for now and see how it works out.

    However, I would hesitate to suggest a half-a** job on such a beautifully engineered car, especially if you can swing the proper repair.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Since to my knowledge the plugs had never been changed that was one of the first things I did. The plugs I removed were well worn down but looked normal otherwise.

    I ordered the CHEAPO converter and we'll see how well/long it lasts.
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